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NICHE    IN   THK    AI.HAMBRA. 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT 


THROUGH  SPAIN 


BY 

Miss  SUSAN  HALE 

Author,  with  Rev.  E.  E.  HALE,  of ''  A  Family  Flight  through  France,  Germany., 

Norway  and  Switzerland,"  and  of  '•"  A  Family  Flight 

over  Egypt  and  Syria  " 


FULLY    ILLUSTRATED 


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BOSTON 
D.     LOTHROP     &     COMPANY 

FKANKLIN    STREET 


) 


J..-^ 


GIFT 


Copyright,  1883. 
D.  LoTHROP  &  Company. 


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Press  of  L.   N.  Frkdericks, 
31  Hawley  St    Boston. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE. 

CHAPTER  I. 
Over  the   Border 13 

CHAPTER  II. 
Dividing  Forces 22 

CHAPTER   III. 
To  Burgos 28 

CHAPTER  IV. 
The  Cid. 35 

CHAPTER  V. 
The  Cathedral 42 

CHAPTER   VI. 
A  Long  Night 50 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Madrid  Streets 58 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
Historical 67 

CHAPTER  IX. 
An   Incident 74 

CHAPTER  X. 
The  Vaughans 83 

CHAPTER   XL 
Calle  Isabel,  16 93 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Toledo 102 


6  Contents. 

CHAPTER   XIII. 
Visigoths m 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
Combination 120 

CHAPTER  XV. 
Cordova 130 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
Andalusia 138 

CHAPTER   XVII. 
Early  Spain 147 

CHAPTER  XVI II. 
Sevilla 156 

CHAPTER  XIX. 
Another  Cathedral 163 

CHAPTER  XX. 

JUSTA   AND    RuFINA 172 

CHAPTER  XXI. 
Italica 179 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

MURILLO 189 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 
Cadiz 196 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 
The  narrow   Strait ; . . . .     204 

CHAPTER  XXV. 
Malaga 211 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 
The  Conquest   of  Granada 220 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 
The   Alhambra 232 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 
More  of   the  Alhambra 243 


Contents.  y 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 
The  Generalife 249 

CHAPTER  XXX. 
The  City  of  Granada 258 

CHAPTER    XXXI. 
Bessie  to   Mary 265 

CHAPTER  XXXH. 
The  Picture  Gallery .     275 

CHAPTER  XXXHL 
Spanish  Art 283 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 
King  Alphonso 292 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 
Perro  Paco 303 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 
Napoleon  in   Spain 311 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 
Philip's   Adventures 324 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 
Zaragoza 332 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 
Barcelona 343 

CHAPTER  XL. 
Out  of    Spain .- 350 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Niche  in  the  Alhambra 

Front. 

A  Placid  Party    . 

'       15 

Bordeaux     .... 

.       18 

Biarritz        .... 

20 

A  Wine  Merchant 

21 

Bayonne      .... 

23 

A  Basque    .... 

24 

Battle  between  Bayonne  and  the 

Basques        .         .         .         . 

25 

Spanish  Mule-bus 

30 

Outside  the  Stable 

32 

The  Fruit  Merchant     . 

34 

A  ragged  Hidalgo 

36 

Courtyard    .... 

38 

Coffer  of  the  Cid 

40 

A  Spanish  Scene 

41 

Patio  of  a  Spanish  Inn 

43 

Interior  of  a  Spanish  Cathedral 

47 

One  of  the  Bells 

48 

Omnibus  with  Mules   . 

5° 

Flowering  Aloe    .         .         .         . 

51 

Spanish  Milk  Jugs 

53 

Madrid  in  the  distance 

54 

Royal  Palace,  Madrid. 

55 

A  Shoemaker       .         ,         .         . 

57 

Coat  of  Arms 

58 

Puerta  Del   Sol  . 

61 

Cooling  Drinks   . 

64 

El  Buen  Retiro    . 

•       65 

The  Spanish  Devil's-fiddle  . 

.       66 

Fountain  of  Neptune  . 

68 

Ferdinand  the  Seventh 

•       70 

Christina      .... 

•       71 

Isabella  the  Second 

•       72 

The  Vegetable-dealer  . 

•       73 

Coat  of  Arms  of  Toledo 

•       74 

Bridge  of  St.  Martin,  Toledo 
Hospital    of    Santa    Cruz,    early 

i6th  Century 
Zocodover  in  Toledo    . 
Santa  Maria  la  Bianca. 
Empty  Wine  Jars 
Six-Mule  Team,  Toledo 
Alcazar 

Bridge  of  Alcantara  . 
Donkeys  carrying  Water  Jars 
Looking  back  across  the  Bridge 
Puerta  del  Sol,  Toledo 
In  the  Water  Cellar  . 
Procession  of  Monks  , 
The  Cathedral  of  Toledo 
Map  .... 
Roman  Gateway . 
Alcazar  in  Toledo 
King  Wamba 
Omnibus  to  the  Station 
Roman  Tomb 
Puerta  de  la  Inclusa  . 
Cervantes  . 
Ancient  Entrance 
A  Mountaineer  on  his  way  Home 
Coat  of  Arms  of  Cordova  . 
Entrance  to  the  Orange  Patio 
Interior  of   the    Mosque  of  Cor 

dova     . 
Charles  the  Fifth 
Wall  of  the  Mosque  of  Cordova 
Bridge  over  the  Guadalquivir 
Moorish  Knocker 
Church  of  San  Pablo,   Cordova 
Raphael's  Pillar  . 
Patio  of  a  private  House,  Cordova 


76 

76 
81 

85 
88 

89 
92 
93 
94 
95 
97 

lOI 

103 
107 
III 

113 

"5 
117 

119 

121 

123 

126 

127 

129 

130 


^33 

134 

135 
136 

^38 
[40 
141 

143 


10 


List  of  Illustrations. 


"  Buenas  Dias  "  . 

Andalusians 

Anns  of    Seville  . 

Manola 

Andalusian  Serenade  . 

Fountain  in  the  Alhambra 

Balcony  in  Seville 

Deserted  Square. 

Cathedral  Gate    . 

Giralda 

Giraldilla 

Ornamental. 

Interior  of  Cathedral  . 

Puerta  del  Perdon 

Holy  Mother 

Seville  Housetops 

Torre  del  Oro 

Gardens  of  the  Alcazar 

Spanish  and  Moorish  Scenes 

Fountain  in  the  Alcazar 

Moorish  Arches,  Alcazar 

La  Sala  des  Embaj adores,  Alcazar 

Roman  Amphitheatre  at  Italica 

Palace    of   the    Duke    de   Mont 

pensier. 
Garden  at  San  Telmo  . 
Leaves  from  a  Sketch-book 
Murillo 

Nuns    at   Prayers 
At  an  old  Well     . 
Alguazils 
A  Lady  of  Cadiz 
Old  Amateur 
Cadiz  from   the  Sea     . 
The  Rock  of  Gibraltar 
Roman  Bridge,  Ronda 
Safety   Boat 
Arms  of  Granada 
The    Cathedral     and     Port      of 

Malaga 
Banks  of  the  Darro    . 
Puerta  del  Vino  . 
Gypsy  Girl  . 
Gate  of   Justice,   Alhambra 


Ferdinand  and  Isabella 
Moorish  Arches  .... 
Dos  Hermanas,  Alhambra   , 
Arabesque  in  the  Alhambra 
A  public  Conveyance  . 
Plan  of  the  Alhambra  . 
Court  of   Myrtles 
Court  of  Lions    .... 
Window  in  Hall  of  Ambassadors 
An  Event  in  the  Village     . 
Entrance  to  Hall  of  Ambassadors 
El  Mirador  de  la  Reina 

164  Cypress  Walk  in  the  Generalife  . 

165  Glaring   Granada 
Gypsy  Quarter     .... 
At  the  Gates  of  a  Town     . 
Tomb  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella 
Elizabeth  dictating  her  Will 
House  in  Granada 
Palms  at  Elche    .... 
Postilion      ..... 
On  the  Vega       .         .         '         . 
Spanish  Balconies 

Parting  at  the  Station 

184  Spanish  Diligence        .         ... 

185  In  a  Village         .... 
Interior  of  the  Armory 
The  gridiron-shaped  Escurial 
Library  of  the  Escurial 
The  English  Elms,  Aranjuez 
Showing  their  Love  for  Music 
The  Dwarf    "El  Primo"     . 
Velasquez    ..... 
From     Equestrian      Portrait     of 

Philip  the    Fourth 
Paul  Rembrandt. 
The  Amateur       .... 
Equestrian  profile 
Prince  Balthazar  Charles,  son  of 

Philip  the  Fourth 
Entrance  to  Botanical  Garden     . 
State  Carriages    .... 
Rnval  Stables      .... 
Coolinrr  Drinks    .... 


146 

^47 
148 

148 

152 
153 

157 

159 

160 

161 
162 


1 66 
167 
169 

170 
[71 

174 

175 
176 

181 


188 
190 

193 

195 
197 

199 

2or 
202 
206 
208 
209 
211 

212 
213 

215 
218 

221 


223 
226 

.227 
230 
231 
232 
234 
235 

239 

242 

244 
246 

251 

254 

255 

257 

259 
260 

262 

263 

265 

266 

268 

269 

271 

274 

276 

278 

279 
281 

282 

285 

287 

288 
289 
290 
291 

293 

295 
296 

297 
298 


List  of  Illustrations. 


II 


Old  Spanish  Embroidery     . 

Gate  of   Hospicio 

Torreros  entering  the  Arena 

Torreros  before  the  Cafe  de  Paris 

Picadors  preparing  for  the  Combat 

A   fair  Spectator 

Orang6  Boy  in  Arena  . 

Outside  View  of  the  Arena . 

Charles  the  Third 

Monument  of  the  Dos  de  Mayo 

Driving  the  Bulls  down 

Velarde  and  Daoiz 

The  Espada 

The  Arena  .... 

Carrying  ofif  the  Victim 

End  of   the  Contest     . 

Arms  of  Zaragoza 

Luz  .... 

Cirque  de  Gavarnie     . 


299 
301 

303 

305 
306 

308 

309 
310 

311 
312 

315 
316 

317 
321 
323 
324 
325 
327 


Manuel  Molina    . 

A  Relay       . 

The  Bridge  at  Cordova 

The  Leaning  Tower     . 

Old  Courtyard     . 

Ox-team  of  Aragon     . 

The     Colegio    de    Procuradores 

Zaragoza 
Cathedral,  Barcelona  . 
Catalonia  Cart     . 
Prison  of   Inquisition,  Barcelona 
Gigants        .... 
The  Battle  of  Lepanto 
Arms  of  Barcelona 
Montserrat  .... 
Live  Stock  .... 
Port  at  Marseilles 
The  Signal  .... 
Marseilles  again  . 


328 
330 
2>Z^ 
333 
335 
33^ 

337 
341 

344 
346 

347 
348 

351 
353 

354 

357 

359 
360 


1      ■»    T  >      ^ 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER  I. 


OVER    THE    BORDER. 


BSOLUTELY  nothing,  sir,  but 
wearing  apparel,  and  perhaps  a 
few  drawing  materials." 

This  statement  in  French  was 
made  to  a  mild-looking  official 
who  stood  within  a  long  coun- 
ter piled  with  trunks,  boxes,  port- 
manteaux and  valises.  On  the 
outer  side  was  an  anxious  crowd 
of  travellers  pressing  and  push- 
ing to  find  their  own  impedi- 
ments, in  order  to  have  them 
passed  without  delay. 

The  mild  official  chalked  a 
white  cross  upon  the  box  under 
inspection. 

"Is  that  all,  Monsieur.?" 
"That  is  all,  Bessie,  is  it  not.?" 
asked    the    gentleman    who    was 
_  conducting  the  transaction  ;  "  one, 
two,    three    and  the    ship   trunk,"    he   added    in    the   same   breath. 
"No,    papa,    I    have   not   found    the    little    black   box   yet." 
"Here  it   is!"  cried  a  boy  who  now  appeared,  bumping  every  one 
in   the   crowd    with    the   corners   of    a   small    travelling    box   which    a 
porter   in    a   blue   blouse   was    struggling   to    take   away. 


t      r      r      f    €  r      t        t 

e  €        f      r  ,    «      I        r 
t       r  r     r        <         i  r 


cv  ;  wj  r'Tc  i  'i  ;    ;  :a  .family  flight  through  spain. 

"  This  man  cannot  speak  anything,"  cried  Tommy,  "  but  he 
thinks  the  trunk  belongs  to  those  other  people." 

Blue  Blouse  consented  to  surrender  the  box ;  by  this  time  the  mild 
official  was  far  away  on  his  side  of  the  counter,  making  white 
crosses  upon  the  boxes  of  other  impatient  tourists,  some  of  whom 
were  obliged  to  open  their  trunks  to  satisfy  the  inspectors.  All 
the  travellers  who  were  to  go  away  by  the  train  which  was  stand- 
ing outside  the  station,  were  in  a  great  hurry  ;  all  the  officials  who 
were  to  stay,  appeared  to  be  in  no  sort  of  haste. 

Finally  one  of  them  turned  his  attention  to  the  little  trunk. 
It  was  a  harmless  black  box,  marked  T.  P.  H.,  but  for  some  reason 
it  appeared  suspicious  to  the  Spanish  inspector,  and  he  demanded 
that  it  should  be  opened.  Straps  were  unfastened,  the  key  pro- 
duced, and  the  top  thrown  back.  Soiled  linen,  slippers,  and  a 
dressing-case  appeared  upon  the  surface.  The  man  plunged  his 
hand  into  a  corner,  fumbled  about,  punched  and  squeezed  a  sponge 
in  its  india-rubber  bag,  then  withdrew  satisfied ;  and  the  party, 
now  permitted  to  return  to  their  seats  in  the  train,  hurried  through 
the  long  room  where  many  other  people  less  fortunate  than  them- 
selves were  still  searching  for  their  effects,  and  undergoing  the 
examination,  which,  however  slight  it  may  be,  is  always  tedious  and 
vexing.  They  passed  along  the  row  of  carriages,  some  of  them 
empty,  the  doors  standing  open  ready  for  their  occupants  who  were 
still  away  struggling  with  the  inspectors.  In  others,  placid  parties 
were  reading  or  chatting  together.  A  lady  sitting  at  the  open 
door  of  a  compartment,  was  watching  for  the  party ;  as  they 
approached   she   called   out : 

"  Here  I  am !  I  have  guarded  our  seats  like  a  dragon,  and  I 
believe  we  shall  still  have  the  compartment  to  ourselves.  Is  every- 
thing safe  ? " 

"Yes,  aunt  Dut,"  replied  the  girl.  "And  here  are  your  keys. 
We  did  not  have  to  open  one  of  your  things,  and  they  only  fell 
foul   of   Tommy's   small    box." 

"I  don't  care,"  said  the  boy,  "they  did  not  find  the  rahatlicum ; 
it   was   too   near   the   bottom." 


tr 
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n 

5 

|r 
< 


OVER  THE  BORDER.  17 

"You    do   not   mean    to   say   that   any    of  that   is   left!"    exclaimed 
Miss  Lejeune. 

For    this  was   Miss  Lejeune  who  was   guarding  the   carriage,  keep- 
ing  seats    for   the  rest    of    the   party,  which   consisted   of  herself  and 
Mr.  Horner,  with  Bessie   Horner  and  Tommy.     These  now  all  entered 
the   carriage    and    began    to   dispose   of    the  wraps   and   straps   which 
they  had    spread   about    upon    the    seats    before    leaving   it,   in    order 
to   make   the    aspect    of    things   as   forbidding   as  possible   to   passen- 
gers searching  for  seats.      A  compartment  in  continental  railway  car- 
riages   is    built    to    hold   eight,  but    it   is    much    more   comfortable   for 
four  persons    only ;    thus  it  becomes   one   of  the  great   arts  of  travel 
to   keep  out    intruders.      Four   is   the   most   convenient   number  for   a 
party  travelling  in    this   way.      It   not   infrequently  happens   that  they 
can   keep    a    compartment   to    themselves,   and    have   plenty   of    room 
for    putting    up   feet,  leaning    comfortably   in    corners,  and   above    all, 
they   can   control    the   two   windows.     There    is   room  for   the   exhibi- 
tion   of    all    grades    of   good    breeding,  and    bad  manners,  in  this  mat- 
ter of  the  compartment.      It  is  perfectly  fair  for  a  party  to  try  to  keep 
the  whole   for  themselves,  especially  if    the  train   is  long,  with  plenty 
of    accommodation    for   all  ;    it   is   annoying  when    new-comers  persist 
in   invading  the  place  already  taken  possession    of,  and,  by  trampling 
upon    toes,    crowding     the   racks,   and    pushing    themselves    into    the 
vacant   seats,    succeed    in   making    the   whole    journey    uncomfortable, 
and  their    presence    disagreeable,  instead  of   seeking   elsewhere  in  the 
train    an   empty   carriage.     On   the  other  hand,  perhaps  the  intruders 
have   not   been   able    to   find    another   carriage,  or   are   forced    to  take 
this   one    by  the   guard,  who   does   not    encourage   the   exclusive   sys- 
tem;   in    this    case,    it    is    hard   for   the    late    arriving   travellers,    flus- 
tered   and   hurried,   with    their   hands   full    of   rugs   and   bags,  to   find 
themselves    most    unwelcome,    with    no   space    resigned   to    them,  only 
forbidding     glances    cast"   upon    them,    and    even    grumbling    remarks 
which    they    can    guess    at   well    enough,    although    the    language    in 
which   they  are  spoken  may  be  foreign. 

The  Horners  were    now   settling   themselves    into    the   best   corners 
of  a  first-class  carriage  of  a  train  which  had  just  crossed  the  frontier 


18 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


between  France  and  Spain.  The  station  was  Irun,  in  the  Spanish 
Basque  Provinces.  At  Hendaye,  their  last  l-rench  town,  they  had 
crossed  the  frontier,  and  there  changed  carriages,  necessary  because 
the  Spanish  railways  are  built  with  a  wider  gauge  than  the  French 
one,  in  order  to  impede  invasion,  it  is  said.  Judging  by  the  length 
of  time  required  to  transfer  the  ordinary  travel  of  a  period  of  peace, 
we  may  imagine  that  the  delay  to  an  impetuous  army  might  be 
serious. 

The  Horners  had  left  Bayonne  about  noon  that  day,  having  come 
from  Bordeaux  the  day  before.  The  day  was  lovely  and  the  scenery 
charming,  with    glimpses    of    the  Bay    of  Biscay,   at   intervals,    on    one 


BORDEAUX 


side,  and  on  the  other  the  soft  line  of  the  receding  Pyrenees.  It 
would  have  been  pleasant  to  linger  at  Arcachon,  a  bright  watering- 
place  near  Bordeaux,  or  to  take  a  branch  train  to  Biarritz,  the  favorite 
resort  of  the  Empress  Eugenie,  still  beautiful,  though  less  frequented 
than  in  its  palmier  days.  As  they  crossed  the  little  river  Bidassoa, 
which  is  the  boundary  between  France  and  Spain,  they  saw  a  small 
island  les  Faisans,  called  also  l' lie  de   la   cotiference^  which  has   served 


OVER  THE  BORDER.  19 

as  neutral  ground  for  more  than  one  meeting  important  in  history,  as 
for  instance  the  exchange  of  Francis  the  First,  of  France,  after  he  had 
been  the  prisoner  of  Charles   the  Fifth. 

"See!"  said  Miss  Lejeune  in  a  low  tone,  nudging  Bessie,  "there 
are  those  people  who  came  from  Bayonne.  I  saw  them  passing 
before.     I  suppose  they  have  been  identifying  their  boxes." 

"  They  look  nice,"  replied  Bessie,  "  but  I  am  glad  they  are  not 
coming  in  here,  for  they  have  such  quantities  of  hand-baggage." 

"They  must  be  changing  their  seats.  Perhaps  they  did  not  find 
good  ones  at  Hendaye." 

The  party  they  were  observing  consisted  of  a  tall  elderly  gen- 
tleman, and  three  ladies,  of  whom  the  first  seemed  advanced  in 
middle  age,  while  the  other  two,  who  followed,  were  much  younger, 
one  of  them  wearing  her  long  hair  in  a  braid,  as  Bessie  still  did, 
for  convenience  in  travelling.  Each  of  the  party  was  laden  with 
shawls,  umbrellas,  guide-books  hastily  seized  upon  at  a  sudden 
signal  for  flight,  and  a  waterproof  of  india-rubber  trailed  on  the 
ground  from  one  of  the  overflowing  heaps.  Tommy  jumped  out  and 
ran    up    to    the   youngest   girl,   saying  in  French : 

"  Permettez  vioi,  mademoiselle,''  while  he  tried  to  take  her  third 
umbrella  from  her. 

"Oh,  thank  you;  don't  trouble  yourself,"  she  replied  in  very  good 
English. 

They  had  now  reached  the  door  of  an  empty  carnage,  and 
Tommy's  assistance  was  by  no  means  superfluous  in  helping  them 
in.  A  little  shriek,  however,  from  the  engine,  startled  them  all, 
and  he  left  them  to  hurry  back  to  his  own  party.  The  guard 
pushed  him  in,  banged  the  door,  hurried  every  one  else  on  the 
platform,  banged  more  doors,  and  waved  his  hand  at  other  guards 
banging  other  doors. 

"Now  we  are  off,"  said  Bessie,  leaning  back  in  her  stuffed  and 
cushioned  corner. 

After  this,  the  train  stood  motionless  on  the  track  for  more  than 
twenty  minutes ;  useless  to  inquire  wherefore.  Nothing  of  impor- 
tance   occurred.    The    luggage   had   been   all   examined    and    marked 


20 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


and  transferred  to  the  vans.  No  passengers  were  missing.  The 
Horners  put  their  heads  out  of  the  window,  but  saw  nothing  to 
account  for  the  delay.  The  Spanish  passengers  in  the  other  depart- 
ments were  not  disturbed,  but  quietly  read  their  newspapers  and 
smoked  their  cigarettes. 

Thus  it  is  upon  the  Spanish  railways.     Repose   and   procrastination 
pervade    the    system.      Perhaps    the     officials    inherit    from    Moorish 


BIARRITZ. 

ancestors  the  Mohammedan  belief  in  "Kismet,"  for  it  is  by  Faith 
and  Fate  that  trains  reach  their  destination,  rather  than  by  rule 
and  time-table.  They  start  sometime,  and  they  arrive  somewhere, 
and  that  is  pretty  much  all  that  can  be  asserted  of  their  punctu- 
ality. 

For  the  rest,  the  carriages  are  comfortable  and  clean,  the 
officials  are  civil  and  obliging,  the  bitjfets  frequent  enough,  and  the 
food  good  enough  for  travellers  with  good  digestions,  and  enterprise, 
to  risk  experiments  in  strange  cakes,  fruits  and  beverages. 

After  all,  there  is  no  hurry !  If  you  have  allowed  a  certain  time 
for  seeing  Spain,  you  may  as  well  see  it  from  a  railway  station  as 
elsewhere.     The    Horners,  like  other   Spanish    travellers,  came   to  feel 


OVER  THE  BOEDER. 


21 


more  intimate  with  the  two  gens  d'armes,  or  alguazils,  who  stand 
at  every  station,  than  with  any  other  inhabitants  of  the  country. 
They  stand  immovable,  in  full  uniform,  with  white  hats  that  have 
a  sort  of  flap  at  the  back,  watching  the  train,  and  awaiting  its 
start.  They  are  always  on  the  platform  as  the  train  draws  up  at 
each  station,  and  they  all  look  so  exactly  alike,  that  it  is  pleasant 
to  indulge  the  belief  that  they  really  are  the  same  pair  transferred 
by  some  process  of  swiftness,  as  yet  unknown  to  the  rest  of  the 
Spanish,  from  one  station  to  another,  to  protect  with  their  wooden 
vigilance  the  interests  of  the  travelling  public. 


''vox 


.A•^l^^^AK^c[|/\^^J 


22 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER   II. 


DIVIDING     FORCES. 


PAIN  is  entered  perhaps  most  naturally  in 
the  way  the  Horners  selected,  by  crossing 
the  frontier  at  Irun,  in  order  to  pass  down 
through  Burgos  to  Madrid.  It  was  now  the 
first  of  May,  and,  although  they  had  made  all 
haste  in  coming  from  the  East,  where  they 
had  been  passing  a  delightful  and  instructive 
winter,  the  season  was  somewhat  advanced  for 
making  the  Spanish   trip. 

"Spain  so  late!"  exclaimed  the  Wiseacres. 
"  You   will    perish    with    heat." 

"  You  never  will  be  able  to  stand  the  climate 
of  Madrid  in  June." 

"  Make  haste  to  get  through  the  southern 
part  first,  or  you  will  miss  all  the  charm  of  it," 
said  others. 

In  spite  of  these  discouraging  warnings,  the 
Horners  continued  to  feel  an  interest  in  their 
own  plan,  which  had  been  made  not  without 
recognition  of  the  phenomena  of  heat  and  cold, 
as  affected  by  climate.  They  came  from  Bor- 
deaux to  Bayonne  through  the  level,  monotonous,  but  picturesque 
Landes,  where  Bessie  from  her  window  had  the  good  luck  to  see 
a  shepherd  on  chanqiies  —  tall  stilts  —  which  are  still  worn  by  the 
people  to  move  about  upon  the  soft,  marshy  ground.  The  Landes 
is   a  barren   stretch   of   country,  covered   with    turf  and   moss.     Pines 


DIVIDING  FOKCES. 


23 


are  the  only  trees,  and  it  would  look  desolate  enough,  except  that 
where  the  railway  crosses  it,  trees  lately  planted  are  beginning  to 
change  its  aspect  of  desolation. 

Bayonne  is  a  fortified  town,  enclosed  in  walls,  and  entered  by 
four  gates.  It  is  so  near  the  frontier  of  Spain  that  it  already 
begins  to  have  a  Spanish  look.  The  streets  are  lively  with  a  great 
variety  of  faces,  costumes  and  languages  ;  for  Basques,  Gascons, 
and  Spaniards,  are  coming  and  going  continually.  The  women  have 
pretty  handkerchiefs  tied  about  their  heads,  and  the  men  wear 
berets  and  ceinturcs  of  bright  colors. 

The   Romans   constructed   a   citadel   at    Bayonne.     As   early  as  the 


BAYONNE. 


twelfth   century   it  was    a   place    of  importance   for   the  whale  fishery, 
tanning  of  leather,  navigation,  and  traffic  with  Spain. 

The  marriage  of  Eleanor  of  Aquitaine  with  Henry  of  England, 
gave  Bayonne  to  that  country.  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion  extended 
its  privileges,  which  came  to  be  so  great  thai  it  was  almost  inde- 
pendent. Subsequent  rulers  had  much  trouble  in  restraining  its 
liberties.  The  mayor  of  Bayonne  used  to  be  in  those  days  a  most 
important    magnate,    executing    justice    as    seemed    right    in    his   own 


24 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


eyes,  upon  all  evil-doers.  The  Bayonne  people  were  always  at  odds 
with  the  Basques,  their  next  neighbors,  and  intimate  enemies  ;  leg- 
ends   remain    of     endless     contests,     and    of    one     great     battle     in 

the  hall  of  a  town  where  the  Bay- 
onne men  were  surprised  by  a  party 
of  Basques.  They  fought  with  chairs 
and  tables,  as  well  as  sharper  weap- 
ons, until  almost  everybody  was  killed 
on  each  side. 

It  was  at  Bayonne  that  Francis 
the  First  arrived  from  his  prison  at 
Madrid,  and  found  his  mother  and 
the  court  awaiting  him.  Since  then 
the  local  history  of  the  place  may  be  said  to  consist  of  passages 
back  and  forth  of  princes  and  princesses  ;  in  the  present  century  it 
has  served  often  as  a  place  of  shelter  for  Spanish  political  schemers. 
The  Basques,  into  whose  province  the  Horners  now  passed,  are 
said  to  be  the  descendants  of  the  earliest  inhabitants  of  the  Penin- 
sula, and  to  this  day  they  preserve  their  strongly-marked  charac- 
teristics of  custom  and  language.  Like  the  Bayonne  men  of  old, 
they  have  a  strong  sense  of  independence,  and  a  determination  to 
maintain  laws  of  their  own,  which  have  been  respected  at  all  times. 
They  are  noted  for  truth  and  honesty,  and  for  their  unbounded 
hospitality.  They  are  tall,  and  often  handsome,  with  fair  hair  and 
blue  eyes,  like  the  ideal  Norsemen,  which  comes  naturally  from 
their  Celtic  origin,  different  from  that  of  other  Spaniards.  The 
Basque  language,  wholly  different  from  Spanish,  is  remarkable,  and 
difficult.  They  still  wear  the  national  costume,  which  is  highly 
picturesque ;  for  the  men,  short  dark  velvet  jackets,  and  loose 
trousers,  with  alfargatas  on  their  feet,  and  a  blue  or  bright  red  sash 
about  the  waist. 

The  Horners  at  once  began  to  enjoy  the  novelty  of  the  Spanish 
national  costumes.  Although,  as  in  other  parts  of  Europe,  these 
are  now  somewhat  superseded  by  the  encroaching  black  broadcloth 
for   men,   and   conventional   Parisian    fashions    for   women,    much   still 


DIVIDING  FORCES. 


25 


remains  of  picturesque  attire.  Each  province  of  Spain  has  its 
own  characteristic  ;  different  colors  prevail  in  different  places,  with, 
however,  a  general  similarity.  The  short  breeches  coming  only  to 
the  knee,  with  buttons  up  the  outside  of  the  leg,  are  so  much 
more  becoming  to  the  manly  form  than  the  long,  slouchy  trousers 
enforced  by  fashion,  that  it  seems  strange  that  man's  vanity 
should  have  been  so  passive  as  to  allow  the  change.  Alfargatas 
are  sandals  of  white  hemp,  thick  and  strong,  for  the  sole  of  the 
foot,  bound  on  with  a  mysterious  arrangement  of  strings,  generally 
black,  crossed  over  the  foot. 

It  must  now  be  explained  why  the  Horner  family  is    so  small  as  to 
occupy  only   the  four  corners  of  their  compartment.     They  have  been 


UATTLE  BETWEEN   BAYONNE  AND  THE   BASQUES. 


seen   filling   the    whole  of  one   without   extending  the  actual    limits  of 
their  party. 

Upon  leaving  the  East.  Spain  was  the  goal  towards  which  the 
minds  of  the  Horners  turned,  but  there  was  a  difference  in  the 
degree  of  longing  with  which  each  regarded  that  land  of  romance 
and    sunshine.     Mrs.    Horner    expressed    a   willingness   to   do    it  vica- 


26  '  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

rioLisly,  and  a  preference  to  settling  down  somewhere  quietly, 
while  the  rest  of  her  family  went  through  Spain  ;  after  which 
they  could  come  back  and  tell  her  all  about  it.  This  idea  was 
only  accepted  with  equanimity  by  the  rest  because  it  seemed  rea- 
sonable. It  was  quite  unlike  the  last  division  of  the  family,  when 
the  broad  Atlantic  and  the  narrow  Mediterranean  had  flowed 
between  the  two  parts.  A  large  party  is  inconvenient  for  travel- 
ling anywhere,  and  especially  in  Spain  ;  not  only  for  comfort  in 
railway  carriages,  but  by  diligence,  in  hotels,  indeed,  in  all  manner 
of  sight-seeing. 

Mrs.  Horner  received  the  full  permission  of  the  council  to 
''form  a  nucleus"  where  she  liked,  and  to  select  her  companions 
who  were  to  remain  with  her,  leaving  four  to  undertake  the 
Spanish  campaign.  She  chose  the  Pyrenees  for  her  retreat,  with 
ample  advice  from  the  friendly  Fords,  who  knew  the  region  well, 
where  to  select  her  point  of  repose.  Mr.  Horner  she  appointed 
leader  of  the  Spanish  expedition,  and  Miss  Lejeune  his  chief  coun- 
sellor, keeping  PhiUp  as  her  own  protector,  escort  and  financier. 
Between  the  two  girls  it  would  have  been  difficult  to  select,  but 
that  Mary  seemed  hardly  strong  enough  for  the  undertaking. 
Everybody  depicts  the  condition  of  Spain  as  so  deplorable,  its 
roads  so  bad,  its  inns  so  poor,  that  there  is  a  general  impression 
that  only  giants  for  strength,  and  lions  for  courage,  should  under- 
take it.  Mary  herself  hesitated,  fearing  she  should  be  an  encum- 
brance ;  at  times  not  up  to  the  requisite  mark.  Bessie  on  the 
other  hand  was  now  in  full  health  and  spirits,  with  a  tremendous 
appetite,  and  unflagging  powers  of  endurance.  She  smelled  the 
battle  afar,  and  champed  the  bit ;  it  would  have  been  cruel  to 
have  deprived  her  of  it.  So  Mary  stayed  behind  with  her 
mother.     Tommy  became  number  four,  and  very  joyfully. 

Mr.  Hervey  was  out  of  the  reckoning  for  either  branch  of  the 
party.  He  accompanied  them  all  to  Marseilles,  and  thence  to  Lourdes, 
a  way-station  on  the  way  to  Bordeaux,  where  the  great  separation 
took  place,  the  Spanish  portion  going  on  to  Bordeaux,  and  thence 
to   Bayonne,    as   we   have    seen,    while   the   rest   took   a/  branch    train 


DIVIDING  FORCES.  27 

up  to  Pierrefitte,  among  the  mountains.  Mr.  Hervey  still  escorted 
them,  wishing  to  see  them  fairly  settled  before  he  left  them  for 
America. 

They  had  a  couple  of  hours  to  wait  at  Lourdes,  where  is  the 
famous  "Grotto  of  the  Virgin."  A  close  row  of  omnibuses  waited 
at  the  station  to  convey  people  to  the  Grotto,  and  small  boys  way- 
laid every  one  on  foot,  with  voluble  offers  to  escort  them  thither ; 
but  the  Horners  were  not  even  tempted  by  simple  curiosity  to 
avail  themselves  of  the  opportunity  of  seeing  the  immense  church 
which  has  lately  been  erected  on  the  spot  where,  in  1758,  the 
Virgin  Mary  is  said  to  have  appeared  in  person  to  a  young  girl. 
There  is  a  fountain  of  supposed  miraculous  powers  of  healing,  and 
thousands  of  pilgrims  visit  the  place.  Since  the  miracle  has  been 
pronounced  "authentic"  by  the  Church,  it  is  wholly  given  over  to 
their  accommodation,  and  to   making  money    out  of  them. 

A  fine  drizzling  rain  made  the  landscape  dull,  and  the  roads 
muddy.  Mrs.  Horner  and  Mary  preferred  to  remain  in  the  station 
reading  guide-books  and  newspapers  which  they  bought  at  the  book- 
stall, while  Mr.  Hervey  and  Philip,  with  some  difficulty  escaping 
the  attacks  of  tormentors,  determined  to  take  them  to  the  Grotto, 
found  their  way  up  to  an  old  castle  picturesquely  placed  on  top 
of  a  little  hill. 

"What  are  you  smiling  about,  Mary.?"  asked  her  mother,  across 
the  top  of   the    Vie  Modenie  which  she  was  looking  over. 

"Poor  Bessie!"  replied  May.  "I  was  thinking  of  the  last  thing 
she  said  while  we  were  standing  on  the  platform  before  their  train 
went  off.  She  is  so  afraid  she  shall  not  be  up  to  the  mark  about 
the  Spanish  galleries.  She  said:  *I  know  I  shall  not  like  the 
right  things,  and  then  aunt  Gus  will  be  dissatisfied.  She  will 
miss  you  all  the  time  she  is  looking  at  the  pictures.'  " 

Mrs.  Horner  laughed,  but  said  : 

"Bessie  has  very  good  taste  in  pictures.  I  dare  say  she  will 
do  very  well." 

"But  she  has  heard  of  the  Montpensier  collection  which  came  to 
Boston  long  ago,  and  she   fears   all   Spanish    pictures    are    horrid." 


28  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER   III. 


TO   BURGOS. 


AT  last  the  train  was  fairly  off,  and  the  Spanish  Horners,  as 
we  must  call  that  branch  of  the  family  who  were  to  explore 
the  Peninsula,  settled  themselves  in  the  four  corners  of  their  com- 
partment, which  was,  luckily  for  them,  all  their  own.  They  were 
such  old  travellers  by  this  time  that  everything  proceeded  with  a 
certain  system.  Four  neat  shawl-straps  seemed  of  themselves  to 
seek  commodious  corners  of  the  rack  above  their  heads.  Four 
umbrellas  fell  together  behind  the  straps.  There  was,  besides,  a  small 
straw  box  containing  lunch  put  up  at  Bayonne,  and  a  little  book- 
strap  which  held  the  guide-books  and  time-tables. 

It  will  be  observed  that  each  one  had  an  individual  shawl-strap 
and  umbrella.  This  can  hardly  be  avoided  in  travelling,  and  it  is 
a  good  plan  for  each  person  to  consider  himself  absolutely  respon- 
sible for  these  two  things  of  his  own.  It  was  the  rule  with  every 
Horner,  but,  for  the  first  time  on  this  trip,  Tommy,  grown  both 
strong  in  arm  and  chivalric  at  heart,  announced  to  Miss  Lejeune 
at  the  outset  that  he  meant  always  to  carry  her  strap  as  well  as 
his  own. 

It  may  seem  to  tarry-at-home  travellers  a  want  of  gallantry  on 
the  part  of  the  gentlemen,  that  the  ladies  of  the  party  should  ever 
be  allowed  to  carry  their  own  straps  ;  but  experienced  tourists 
know  that  the  leader  of  a  party  must  not  be  burdened  with  even 
the  thought  of  such  things.  It  is  the  responsibility  more  than  the 
dead  weight  of  hand-luggage  which  makes  it  a  burden  ;  for  in 
general  there  is  not  much  carrying  to  be  done;  a  stout  porter  is 
almost   always   to   be   found   upon    whose    broad    shoulders     portman- 


TO  BURGOS.  29 

teaux  may  be  heaped,  and  whose  hands  hold  all  possible  parcels. 
He  carries  everything  faithfully  and  accepts  at  the  end  fifty  cen- 
times, or  its  equivalent,  with  contented  cheerfulness. 

So  Miss  Lejeune,  accepting,  for  the  boy's  sake  quite  as  much  as 
her  own,  this  gallant  knightship,  was  not  encumbered  with  wraps. 
As  soon  as  they  were  started,  Bessie  undid  ,the  little  book-strap. 

"  Which  will  you  have,    aunt    Gus  .-'  "  she  inquired. 

"  Give  me  O'Shea,  unless  your   father  wants  it." 

'*  Not  at  all,"  replied  Mr.  Horner.  "  I  am  going  to  devote 
myself  to  accounts,  for  I  have  not  yet  accustomed  myself  to  this 
Spanish  gold." 

At  Bayonne  Mr.  Horner  had  exchanged  his  French  money  for 
Spanish  without  difficulty  ;  nor  did  he  find  it  difficult  to  under- 
stand the  latter,  it  is  so  like  the  French,  a  peseta  being  worth 
somewhat,  but  not  much,  more  than  a  franc.  The  sum  he  received 
was  given  him  chiefly  in  bright  gold  coins  worth  twenty-five  pesetas 
each,  looking  very  much  like  English  sovereigns,  and  of  about  the 
same  value.  The  reales  were  rather  puzzling  to  the  Homers,  because 
they  heard  a  great  deal  about  them,  but  only  saw  pesetas  and 
countless  small  coins  of  trifling  value,  which  they  never  came  to 
clearly  understand.  Hotel  bills  are  generally  reckoned  in  reales, 
and  as  it  takes  four  reales  to  make  a  peseta  (twenty  cents),  the 
number  at  the  bottom  of  a  bill  looks  formidable  with  its  sum  of 
figures  until  it  is  divided  by  four,  after  which  it  subsides  to  a 
moderate  number  of  pesetas  with  nothing  alarming   about  it. 

A  real  is  about  the  same  as  five  cents ;  but  it  seems  a  more 
important  value  in  Spain,  on  account  of  the  number  of  lesser 
coins,  sometimes  very  small  in  size,  for  one  of  which  may  be 
bought  in  the  street  a  handful  of  carnations,  or  an  immense  mas*- 
nolia  blossom  ten  inches  in  diameter. 

The  time  passed  quickly  as  the  train  swept  along  through  scen- 
ery sometimes  grand  and  wild,  suggesting  bandits  and  brigands. 
The  guide-books  kept  our  party  well  posted  on  the  points  of  inter- 
est, historic  and  romantic,  and  they  would  have  been  glad  to  pause 
often    to  make   a   sketch   or   inspect   a   castle.     Darkness    alone    o-ave 


&' 


30 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


rest  to  their  eager  eyes,  and  minds  excited  with  this  first  expe- 
rience of  Spain.  They  were  glad  to  sit  silent  for  an  hour  or  two. 
It  was  ten  o'clocii  in  the  evening  before  they  arrived  in  Burgos. 

Here   they   left   the  train,  with   all   their   little    Spanish   phrases   at 
their  tongues'    ends,   ready   to  do   battle   in    that   language.      Passing 


SPANISH   MULE-BUS. 


out    of   the    station,    and    surrendering    their    tickets    to    the    man  at 

the   gate,    they   saw   a    long   line    of    omnibuses,   and    a   long   line  of 

porters,  all   labelled  —  both    men    and    carriages  —  with   the   names  of 

their   several    hotels.       This    was    quite   as    it    would    be  elsewhere  in 

Europe,  and  quite  reassuring.      Mr     Horner,    however,  endeavored  to 


TO  BURGOS.  81 

give  a  Spanish  turn  to  the  way  he  pronounced  the  words  Fonda  del 
Norte.  The  man  whose  hat  was  encircled  with  the  same  words, 
took  them  to  the  omnibus  of  that  hotel,  took  the  small  piece  of 
paper,  which  in  Europe  corresponds  to  our  bunch  of  baggage- 
checks,  and  by  and  by  returned  with  their  effects,  which  were 
hoisted  up  to  the  top  of  the  omnibus,  and  plunged  down  upon  it 
with  the  usual  thump.  All  this  was  all  en  regie,  except  that  the 
vehicle  seemed  a  little  squarer  and  squalider  than  some  they  knew, 
and  Tommy  had  perceived  that  three  mules  in  a  row  were  harnessed 
to  it.  The  two  or  three  people  who  joined  them  were  evidently 
not  Spaniards,  but  travellers  like  themselves  —  a  grumbling  French- 
man, and  a  very  stout  German  with  a  curved  nose.  They  started 
off  with  a  jerk,  and  cracking  of  whips.  The  three  mules  kicked 
u|)  their  heels,  as  Tommy  could  see  through  the  darkness  from 
the  little  front  window,  and  they  were  whirled  off  over  a  rouo-h 
pavement,  at  a  mad  pace.  The  passengers  were  bumped  against 
each  other,  the  windows  rattled,  the  little  kerosene  lamp  smoked 
and  smelt,  'he  thing  rocked  as  if  it  would  tip  over.  As  they 
could  not  in  the  least  see  where  they  were  going,  it  was  a  little 
alarming. 

"  I'm  glad  mamma  is  not  here,"  said  Bessie,  holding  on  to 
the   side   of  the   omnibus,    ''if  it    is    all    going   to    be    like    this." 

''I  like  it"  —  much,  Tommy  was  about  to  add,  but  the  sudden 
jolt  of  stopping  shook  his  mouth  together  before  he  had  time  to 
finish   his   sentence. 

They  were  ushered  into  a  low,  dimly-lighted  passage-way.  Two 
or  three  proprietors  and  waiters,  both  men  and  women,  came  out  to 
receive  them,  and  Mr.  Horner  bravely  began  to  state  his  views  about 
rooms,  in  words  culled  from  several  Spanish  conversation-books. 
"  Qiiatro  camas  y  qiiatros  por  qnatrol'  was  what  he  had  learned  by 
heart,  a  troublesome  collection  of  q's  and  c's,  which  means  "four 
beds,  and  rooms  for  four."  He  was  greatly  relieved,  though  not 
flattered,  to  be  answered  in  English,  which,  though  not  of  the 
best,  was  more  intelligible  than  his  Spanish.  They  were  soon 
shown    to    a    wonderful   salon,   low    and    large,    furnished   with   dingy 


32 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


chairs  and  furniture,  sofas,  a  shabby  carpet,  clocks  and  mirrors 
after  the  manner  of  France,  dimly  lighted  by  two  candles.  From 
this  opened  at  each  end  a  bedroom,  so  that  Miss  Lejeune  and 
Bessie  on  the  one  hand,  and  Mr.  Horner  and  Tommy  on  the 
other,  were  comfortably  established.  Two  truly  Spanish  maids  came 
in,    with  panuelas   round    their    heads,    and    bustled    about    the    beds. 


OUTSIDE   THE   STABLE. 


Miss  Lejeune  began  trying  her  Spanish  on  them,  and  said,  in  that 
language,   that   she   wished   much  to   learn   to   speak   it, 

"Poor  lady!"  said  the  girl  to  her  companion.  'The  Senora 
wishes   to   speak  our   tongue,    and    she   cannot." 

After  they  were  refreshed  a  little  they  went  up-stairs  to  supper, 
or  late  dinner.  Their  own  rooms  were  up  one  flight  from 
the  street,  and  were  directly  over  a  stable,  whence  the  sounds, 
and  eke  the  odors,  of  animals  arose,  and  in  the  morning  the  cheer- 
ful  hee-haw   of    a   dear   donkey.       There   was   no   grand  entrance    or 


TO  BURGOS.  35 

broad  corridor  to  this  hostelry;  all  the  stairs  looked  like  back 
stairs,  and  the  passages  were  dark  and  narrow.  They  were  placed 
at  one  end  of  a  long  table,  filled  with  guests,  chiefly  men,  all 
apparently  chance  travellers.  The  table  was  lighted  by  hanging 
lamps  (probably  kerosene),  and  ornamented  with  vases  of  mature 
artificial  flowers.  The  courses  were  served  at  the  elbow,  like  any 
other   table   d hote. 

So  much  is  said  and  asked  about  the  food  in  Spain,  that  per- 
haps it  will  be  well,  once  for  all,  to  give-  a  little  account  of  it. 
It  is  known,  by  this  time,  that  the  Horners  were  never  fastidious 
about  what  they  ate,  and  that  they  had  failed  seldom  to  discover 
wholesome  food,  in  some  form,  wherever  they  went.  They  were 
prepared  to  find  things  pretty  bad  in  Spain,  and  therefore  were 
agreeably  disappointed  in  this  matter.  The  fact  is  ,  that  now 
almost  all  hotels  in  large  Spanish  cities,  are  kept  either  by 
French  or  Italians,  and  the  food  is  much  the  same  as  that  fur- 
nished in  other  hotels  on  the  Continent ;  better  or  worse,  accordinsr 
to  the  grade  of  the  hotel.  This  dingy  old  Fonda  at  Burgos 
differs  from  the  hotels  of  Madrid  and  Seville,  in  being  less  like 
those  of  other  continental  towns  ;  so  that  the  little  bit  of  Spanish 
experience  which  the  Horners  had  had  at  the  outset  was  not 
repeated  for  some  time. 

A  real  Spanish  dinner  begins  with  a  soup,  good  or  bad, 
according  to  the  cook  who  makes  it.  Ptichero  follows  inevitably, 
the  national  dish  par  excellence,  and  always  served.  It  is  not  very 
different  from  the  "boiled  dish"  of  New  England,  being  boiled 
meat,  surrounded  with  vegetables,  and  garnished  with  slices  of 
sausages,  lard,  and  ham,  with  tomato  and  saffron,  and  red  peppers, 
for  even  in  the  food  local  color  glows,  as  in  everything  else 
Spanish.  The  chief  ingredient  is  garbanzos,  which  Gautier  describes 
as  "peas  striving  to  appear  to  be  beans,  in  which  they  are  only 
too  successful."  Puchero  is  not  bad ;  it  is  eaten  with  alacrity  at 
first,  but  after  being  served  week  in  and  week  out  every  day  and 
perhaps  twice  a  day,  it  palls  upon  the  palate,  and  one  reason 
for   being   glad   to  get    out  of   Spain,    is    seeing    the  last  of  it. 


34 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THKOUGH  SPAIN. 


Esfss  cooked  in  oil  —  good  fresh  oil  —  which  is  used  much  instead 
of  butter,  or  some  slight  entremet,  follows  the  puchero,  and  then 
comes  fish,  at  this  odd  point  in  the  meal.  After  this  the  inev- 
itable roast  and  salad,  sweets  and  cheese,  on  this  occasion  the 
excellent  queso  dc  Burgos,  a.  specialty  of  the  place  follow,  with 
delicious  fruit,  oranges,  strawberries,  or  apricots,  according  to  the 
season. 


&•■'■ 


-T«vVB.»lT''Vt.K<:TlAN-E 


THE  CID.  S5 


CHAPTER   IV. 

THE     CID. 

UNDER  their  heads  were  the  omnibus-mules  in  their  stalls,  but 
nevertheless  the  Homers  slept  sound  in  their  first  Spanish 
bed.  Before  they  slept,  they  heard  the  call  of  the  night  watch,  end- 
ing with  "  All's  well ! "  at  first  faint  in  the  distance,  then  after  a 
pause,  louder,  and  then  dying  away  again  repeated  far  off.  This 
reminded  them  of  Alexandria,  and  made  them  feel  quite  at  home. 

Next  morning  instead  of  coffee,  there  was  brought  to  their  rooms 
a  tray  containing  cups  of  thick  chocolate,  and  bread,  with  a  tumbler  full 
of  water  for  each  person,  and  resting  across  the  tumbler  a  long  piece 
of  crisp  white  sugar,  called  aziicarillo.  This  is  the  national  morn- 
ing meal,  and  our  party  was  resolved  to  adopt  the  national  habit. 
The  chocolate  was  good,  but  very  thick.  "  Too  filling,  for  this  time 
in  the  morning,"  said  Miss  Lejeune,  and  after  this  experiment  she 
went  back  to  her  favorite  cafe  an  lait,  which  can  always  be  had 
fairly  good.  Tommy  rejoiced  in  the  chocolate,  and  in  the  sweet 
azucarillo,  which  should  be  eaten  after  it  is  dipped  in  water.  A 
glass  of  water  inevitably  follows  a  cup  of  chocolate.  It  is  supposed 
to  aid  the  digestion  of  it.  Miss  Lejeune  thought  it  would  take 
more  than  a  glass  of  water,  of  which  she  was  not  fond,  to  settle 
the  rich  heavy  beverage,  especially  so  early  in  the  morning,  and  she 
seldom  tried  chocolate  after  this.  This  was  an  exception  to  her 
general    rule   of    always    eating     in    Rome   as   the   Romans    do. 

When  the  maids  came  in  to  make  the  beds,  the  Horners  were 
still  in  their  salon  writing  letters.  Bessie  after  careful  research  in 
her  conversation-book,  asked  of  one  of  them  at  what  time  would  be 
almuerzo, —  breakfast. 


36 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THEOUGH  SPAIN. 


"  Allassonzas,"   replied,   apparently,  the    maid. 

"Gracias,"  said  Bessie,  lisping  the  c  with  Castilian  elegance.  She 
was  half  encouraged,  half  mortified  at  her  Spanish  attempt ;  evi- 
dently she  had  been  un- 
derstood, for  she  received 
a  prompt  reply,  but  what 
under  the  sun  was   it ! 

"Allassonzas  !  "  she  re- 
peated as  soon  as  they 
were  alone.  They  knew 
their  numbers  pretty 
well,  but  this  sounded 
not   like   any    of    them. 

"I'll  tell  you,"  she 
herself  exclaimed,  "  it 
must  be  eleven  !  Onza 
is  eleven,  and  they  prob- 
ably say  a  las  onzas,  at 
the  elevens  !  " 

"  Whereas  we  were  at 
sixes  and  sevens,"  mur- 
mured her  papa,  show- 
ing that  he  was  in  the 
best  of  spirits,  since  he 
permitted  himself  a  poor 
pun. 

They  decided  to  go 
out  and  explore  the 
streets  until  almuerzo, 
and  reserve  the  Cathedral  for  the  long  afternoon ;  so  they  sallied 
forth,  Miss  Lejeune  armed  with  her  sketch-book,  sighing  for  Mary 
who  was  always  her  companion  in  this  pursuit. 

Every  step  brought  something  amusing  before  their  eyes.  The 
very  beggars  in  Spain  wear  their  cloaks  like  hidalgos.  They  were 
constantly  meeting  Don  Caesar  de  Bazan  and  all  his  family. 


A   RAGGED    HIDALGO. 


THE  CID.  37 

"  Tommy !  You  ought  to  draw.  Stop  !  I  will  give  you  this 
extra  book  and  some  charcoal.     You  must !  " 

"  I  cannot  sketch,"  said  Tommy  sheepishly  ;  but  he  took  the 
things,  and  afterwards  made  a  very  good  attempt  at  a  dog  sitting 
down. 

They  all  established  themselves  in  an  old  arched  doorway,  look- 
ing through  at  a  picturesque  court.  Mr.  Horner  kept  guard,  and 
Bessie  sat  by  with  a  book,  though  she  did  not  read  much,  while 
Miss  Lejeune  rapidly  washed  in  effects  in  water  colors. 

They  were  soon  surrounded  by  half  the  town  of  Burgos  ;  not 
only  boys,  but  women  with  babies,  and  grown  men,  and  above  all, 
dogs,  who  pushed  in  close  to  them  to  investigate,  and  were 
recalled  by  their  owners ;  the  crowd  behaved  very  well,  and 
expressed  themselves  in  half  whispers,  of  which  the  first  word 
intelligible  was  "perro;"  they  said  it  so  often,  and  the  dogs  advanced 
so  often,  that  the  travellers  soon  put  their  ideas  together.  Bessie 
pointed  at  a  dog  and  said  inquiringly,  "Perro.''"  "Si  Senorina,"  re- 
plied the  ragged  boy,  and  smiled  a  smile  Murillo  has  often  painted, 
showing  all  his  Spanish  teeth. 

The  favorite  hero  of  Spain  is  the  Cid,  Rodrigo  Diaz  de  Bivar, 
the  most  prominent  figure  in  Spanish  literature.  The  name  is  so 
obscured  by  myth  and  fable  as  to  be  almost  lost  to  history.  No 
doubt  such  a  man  lived,  but  so  many  impossible  deeds  have  been 
ascribed  to  him,  that  it  is  hard  to  select  the  true  ones.  There 
are,  indeed,  a  Cid  of  history  and  a  Cid  of  romance,  very  differ- 
ent from  each  other,  but  both  exerting  a  singular  influence 
in  developing  the  national  genius. 

The  Cid  of  history  is  still  the  hero  of  the  early  period  of  the 
struggle  between  Christian  and  Mohammedan,  and  a  good  type  of 
the  Spanish  Goth  of  the  twelfth  century.  Rodrigo  Diaz,  better 
known  by  this  Arab  title  of  "the  Cid"  (el  Seid,  the  lord),  was 
of  a  noble  family.  The  date  of  his  birth  is  uncertain,  but  it  was 
probably  between  1030  and  1040,  during  the  reign  of  Fernando  the 
First,  a  great  and  wise  prince,  under  whom  the  tide  of  Moslem  conquest 
was    first   checked.     He  possessed   a   large  dominion  in    Spain,  but  on 


38 


A  FAMILY  FLI(;HT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


COURTYARD. 


his  death  it  was  divided 
among  his  five  sons.  Cas- 
tile fell  to  one,  Leon  to 
another,  and  other  prov- 
inces to  the  rest.  Not  long 
before,  the  Moorish  pos- 
sessions had  been  broken 
up  into  numerous  petty 
states,  and  hence  there  was 
quarrelling  of  every  de- 
scription, —  between  brother 
and  sister,  between  Cas- 
tilian  and  Galician,  as 
well  as  between  Christian 
and  Moslem.  No  condition 
of  affairs  could  be  more 
favorable  to  the  genius  of 
a  warrior.  The  Cid  first 
rose  to  distinction  in  a 
contest  between  two  San- 
chos  of  Castile  and  Navarre, 
in  which  he  won  his 
name  of  Campeador,  —  the 
champion,  —  by  slaying  the 
champion  of  the  enemy  in 
single  combat.  After  this, 
he  was  entrusted  with  high 
commissions,  and  fought 
many  a  battle  for  his  king 
then  Alphonso  the  Sixth  ; 
in  1074  he  was  wedded  to 
Ximena,  a  royal  princess. 
The  original  deed  of  the 
marriage  contract  is  in 
existence.       But     his    great 


THE  CID.  39 

prowess  and  many  successes  raised  up  enemies  who  found  it  easy 
to  kindle  the  jealousy  of  the  king.  He  was  accused  of  keeping 
back  for  himself  part  of  the  tribute  he  had  won  for  the  king, 
who  took  advantage  of  his  absence  on  a  raid  against  the  Moors, 
to   banish   him   from    Castile, 

Henceforth  Rodrigo  begun  upon  the  career  which  has  made  him 
famous,  fighting  on  his  own  account,  sometimes  under  the  Christian 
banner,  sometimes  under  Moorish  and  sometimes  against  both.  Among 
his  enterprises,  the  most  famous  was  that  against  Valencia,  which 
he  took,  after  a  nine  months'  siege,  in  1094.  This  was  the  rich- 
est prize  snatched  from  the  Moors,  for  Valencia  was  then  the 
most  flourishing  city  on  the  Peninsula.  The  Cid  took  it  for  his 
own  kingdom,  and  ruled  it  according  to  his  own  will,  with  vigor 
and  justice,  for  four  years.  At  length  the  party  of  the  Moors 
most  powerful  at  that  time,  the  Almoravides,  whom  he  had  several 
times  beaten,  marched  again§t  him  in  great  force,  and  his  army 
was  crushed.  The  blow  was  a  fatal  one  to  the  now  aged  and 
war-worn  Campeador,  and  he  died  of  grief  and  anger,  in  July, 
1099.  He  was  buried  in  a  monastery  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Burgos,  with  his  wife  Ximena.  There,  in  the  centre  of  a  small 
chapel,  surrounded  by  his  chief  companions  in  arms,  still  rest,  after 
frequent  disturbances  from  friend  and  foe,  the  bones  of  this  mighty 
warrior,  the  genuine  Spanish  hero,  the  embodiment  of  the  virtues 
and   vices   of  his   time. 

Philip  the  Second  made  an  effort  to  have  him  canonized,  but  Rome 
objected,  and  not  without  reason.  Whatever  were  his  qualities  as 
a  fighter,  the  Cid  was  not  of  the  right  material  to  make  a  saint, — 
a  man  who  battled  against  Christian  and  Moslem  with  equal  zeal, 
who  burnt  churches  and  mosques  alike,  who  ravaged,  plundered  and 
slew  for  a  livelihood  as  much  as  for  any  patriotic  or  religious 
purpose,  and  who  was,  in  fact,  about  as  much  of  a  Musselman  as 
a   Christian    in    his    habits    and    character. 

This  is  the  Rodrigo  of  history.  The  Cid  of  romance,  of  legend 
and  drama,  is  a  different  character,  invested  with  all  the  attributes 
of  a  grand  hero.     He   is   the   type   of  all    knightly  virtue,  the  mirror 


40 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIIS". 


of  patriotic  duty,  the  flower  of  all  Christian  grace.  He  is  Roland 
and  Bayard  in  one.  From  the  time  of  his  actual  life  he  has  been 
the  subject  of  song,  and  within  a  hundred  years  from  his  death 
he  had  become  the  centre  of  a  whole  system  of  myths.  The  cel- 
ebrated poem  of  the  Cid  was  written  in  the  latter  half  of  the 
twelfth  century ;  there  are  hundreds  of  ballads  relating  to  him, 
some  of  them  full  of  simplicity  and  fire.  His  horse  Bavieca,  and 
his   sword    La   Colada,    are   as   famous    as    himself 

Although   the   glory   of  the    Cid    spreads   all   over    Spain,    it   is    at 


COFFER   OF   THE   CID. 


Burgos  that  the  interest  in  him  centres,  since  it  is  there  that  he 
was  born,  and  there  that  his  bones  actually  repose.  When  the 
Homers  were  going  through  the  Cathedral,  they  were  shown  in  a 
side  chapel  a  heavy  wooden  coffer  supported  high  up  against  the 
wall  upon  iron  brackets.  It  is  a  worn-out,  worm-eaten  old  box,  and 
looks  like  the  grandfather  of  all  trunks.  This  is  the  celebrated 
Cofre  del   Cid ;    one   of  two    trunks    which    he    once    left   as    security 


THE  CID. 


41 


with  a  Jewish  banker,  for  a  loan  of  six  hundred  marks,  assurino- 
them  they  contained  all  his  jewels  and  gold,  but  that  they  were 
not  to  open  them  until  his  return.  The  true  contents  of  the  boxes 
were  sand  and  rubbish,  heavy  enough  to  deceive  the  bankers.  If 
he  came  back  and  paid  the  sum  he  had  borrowed,  this  was  all 
very  well ;  there  is  no  proof  that  he  ever  restored  principal  or 
rendered   interest,    but    we   will   hope    that    he   did    so. 

Tommy  asked  why  the  cofifer  was  thus  suspended  on  high,  and 
the  guide  told  him  it  was  to  keep  it  out  of  reach  of  too  eager 
tourists  and  admirers  of  the  Cid,  who  could  not  resist  splitting  off 
little  bits  of  the  wood  as  mementos,  when  it  was  wiihin  their 
reach. 


'-^^^  M 


J£^4-  ■^'^i^--^  h^^^  1^'  >  %  rt  ^j^ 

...  ft^—   J   jid-^.T.. rTT^S   '   "WMfr^__ -i&  ^^  '   -« »■—-.'     '     ^ .  '  '' 


^    • r;^^^         J  "MV*   ■""--_       -.gr-^  _,;,___^_-__       ^^y^ 


42  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER   V. 


THE  CATHEDRAL. 


WHILE  they  were  eating  almuevzo,  a  merry  meal  in  the  dining- 
room  above  stairs,  with  a  mixed  collection  of  travellers  from 
various  countries,  all  finding  fault  with  the  dishes  in  a  variety  of 
languages,    Miss    Lejeune  said,    "  If  each  one  of  our  fellow-guests  had 

what  he  wishes  to  eat  set  before  him,  what  a  mixed  menu  it  would 
make!  " 

"  Yes ! "  exclaimed  Tommy  ;  "  liver,  sausage  and  macaroni  and 
baked   beans  and   edible   bird'snests." 

"  O   come.    Tommy,    there   are  no    Chinese   here ! "   said    Bessie. 

"  No,   but  very   likely  some    one    would    order   it     for   a   delicacy." 

*'  Quite  raight,  my  young  friend,"  said  a  stout  German  next 
Tommy,  who  understood  a  little  English,  and  thought  he  could 
speak  it;  "most  peoples  shall  tink  him  own  dish  what  most  nasty 
to   all   nations." 

The  sentiment  was  good,  although  obscured  by  its  imperfect  expres- 
sion. Tommy  controlled  his  face,  and  waited  till  they  had  all  left 
the   room    before    he    repeated    the   sentence    to   his   family. 

After  very  good  black  coffee,  the  Horners  sallied  forth  to  see 
the  Cathedral,  through  the  picturesque  streets,  always  admiring  the 
groups  of  beggars.  They  surrendered  themselves,  though  reluctantly, 
to  a  guide,  as  they  had  not  much  time  to  spare.  Such  a  guide 
is  at  once  the  stay  and  torment  of  sight-seekers.  He  pesters 
them  with  gabble,  drags  them  to  see  things  they  do  not  want  to 
see ;  he  makes  them  stand  staring  at  worthless  relics,  and  tears 
them  away  from  the  contemplation  of  a  masterpiece.  He  is  igno- 
rant  of   art,    history,  men    and    manners,  and    yet    assumes  superiority 


PATIO    OF   A    SPANlill    INN. 


>       *     y  >       >         J   . 


THE  CATHEDRAL.  45 

over  travellers  because  he  knows,  and  they  do  not,  the  way  around 
his  one  cathedral.  It  is  delightful  to  dispense  with  the  services  of 
any  guide,  and  driving  off  the  swarms  of  them  that  come  buzzing 
about,  to  explore  the  intricacies  of  a  town,  a  church,  or  cathedral, 
according  to  one's  own  sweet  will;  then  every  new  object  seems 
a  discovery,  snatched  from  the  whole  collection  of  wonders.  The 
tourist  can  make  his  own  'decision  upon  the  merits  of  a  work 
of  art,  and  follow  undisturbed  the  thread  of  thought  it  awakes. 
This  course  can  best  be  pursued  when  there  are  several  days  to 
be  spent  in  one  place,  and  time  enough  to  spare  for  the  loss  of 
it,  which  is  sure  to  come  from  turning  the  wrong  corner,  mistak- 
ing  the   point   of    view,    and    thus   dilating   with    the   wrong    emotion. 

A  wily  old  valet  de  place  leads  his  victims  straight  to  head- 
quarters. He  really  does  know  best  what  they  wish  or  what  they 
ought  to  see,  indeed,  the  thing  that  makes  him  so  disagreeable  is 
that  he  does  know  more  than  they  do.  Then  he  has  keys  to 
locked-up  chapels,  or  can  procure  them,  and  he  knows  the  short- 
est way  round  the  building.  The  quickest  way  is  to  surrender  to 
him  entirely,  go  everywhere  he  suggests,  believe  everything  he 
says,  for  the  moment.  This  was  the  Horners '  plan  up  to  a  cer- 
tain point,  when  often  after  a  tramp  of  several  hours,  they  some- 
times "  bolted "  unexpectedly,  and,  to  the  astonishment  of  the 
hitherto  flattered  guide,  absolutely  refused  to  stir  another  step, 
demanding  to  be  restored  to  their  hotel. 

Matters  reached  no  such  extreme  at  Burgos.  They  found  their 
way  alone  to  the  Cathedral  easily,  and  there  fell  into  the  hands 
of  a  mild,  mechanical  man  who  could  do  a  little  routine  English. 
He  trotted  them  round  the  place,  showing  everything,  and  was 
neither  too  loquacious  nor  too  persistent. 

The  Cathedral  of  Burgos  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  finest  in 
Europe ;  a  grand  specimen  of  the  thirteenth-century  Gothic.  If, 
since  it  is  the  first  Cathedral  studied,  after  entering  Spain  from 
Bayonne,  it  is  overlaid  by  other  impressions  in  the  mind  of  the 
tourist  who  presses  on  to  Andalusia  and  the  wonder  of  Seville 
and    Grenada,    yet   nevertheless,    in    the    quiet    hours    of   repose  when 


46  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

the    journey   is   over,    the   vision   of  it    comes    back   in    all    its   force 
and  purity. 

The  towers  and  pinnacles  are  open  work,  and  in  the  distance 
they  are  seen  against  the  blue  sky  like  filigree  work,  and  at  night 
stars  can  be  seen  through  them.  The  Cathedral  is  somewhat  shut 
in,  as  it  is  built  on  uneven  ground,  surrounded  by  poor  little 
houses  ;  and  the  Archbishop's  palace  is  so  close  to  it,  as  to  form, 
as  it  were,  a  part  of  the  same  building;  and  on  the  opposite  side 
a  good  impression  of  the  inward  arrangement  can  be  had  from  the 
outside. 

After  studying  for  some  time  the  innumerable  statues  of  angels, 
martyrs,  warriors  and  princes  which  adorn  the  facade,  our  little 
party  entered  the  immense  building,  and  stood  silent  before  the 
grandeur  of  the  interior.  It  was  impossible  to  do  more  at  first 
than  to  look  silently  around,  following  the  lines  of  the  columns, 
and  curves  of  the  arches,  while  a  vague  delight  and  wonder  came 
filling  the  mind. 

After  a  little  while  Mr.  Horner  came  nearer  to  Miss  Lejeune, 
and    said    softly : 

"  This    is    the   real   thing !  " 

"  Oh,  yes ! "  she  replied.  "  It  satisfies  all  my  requirements  for  a 
Spanish    cathedral." 

It  was  many  minutes  before  they  felt  inclined  to  do  more  than 
to  move  about,  receiving,  without  analyzing,  the  effect  of  the  vast 
proportions  of  the  whole,  graceful  at  the  same  time,  and  harmonious, 
until  the  guide  became  impatient,  and  they  followed  him  about  to 
the  different  chapels,  eacn  itself  like  a  church,  in  richness  and 
variety.  In  each  is  entombed  some  great  personage,  with  his 
recumbent  statue  extended  in  the  middle,  the  head  upon  a  pillow, 
and  the  hands  clasped  upon  his  breast,  —  priests  clothed  in  their 
festival  robes,  warriors  in  armor,  princesses  in  regal  attire ;  and 
all  surrounded  with  a  profusion  of  carvings,  gold  decorations  cover- 
ing the  walls,  altars  and  ceilings ;  every  chapel  contains  an  army 
of  angels  and  saints  cut  in  marble  or  wood,  painted,  gilded, 
clothed. 


THE  CATHEDRAL. 


47 


It  is  this  splendor  and  richness  of  decoration  which  distin- 
guishes the  cathedrals  of  Spain  ;  gold,  color,  carving,  and  everywhere, 
and  yet  there  is  nothing  either  gaudy  or  tawdry  in  the  effect,  for 
all  at  the  same 
time  is  sombre 
and  grand,  per- 
haps because  the 
proportions  are 
so  large,  but 
more  because  it 
is  all  genuine 
work.  After  the 
solemn  sincerity 
of  these  cathe- 
drals,  at  the 
same  time  full 
of  richness  and 
warmth,  that  of 
Cologne  seems 
cold  and  bare, 
and  the  decora- 
tions  of  the 
modern  French 
churches  flimsy. 

Descriptions  of 
cathedrals  are  al- 
ways tedious  to 
those  who  have 
not  seen  them, 
and  it  will  not 
do  to    weary  the  interior  of  a  Spanish  cathedral. 

reader  with  a  detailed  account  of  all  the  Homers  visited.  Their 
general  impression  of  richness  and  grandeur  lasted  all  through 
their  expedition  in  Spain.  It  was  at  Burgos  that  Bessie  first  removed 
her   idea   of  "doing  a  cathedral"    from   the    category   of    idle    sight- 


48 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


-./•,._ 


seeing,  to  that  of  the  most  thorough  enjoyments  of  travelling. 
They  looked  with  wonder  at  the  celebrated  Cristo  de  Burgos, 
which  is  said  by  tradition  to  have  been  carved  by  Nicodemus 
shortly  after  the  burial  of  our  Lord.  It  was  found,  according  to 
the  legend,  inside  a  box,  floating  in  the  sea,  and  after  many 
adventures,  it  finally  was  brought  from  this  cathedral  to  a  convent. 
It  is  certainly  of  very  early  date,  and  admirably  modelled,  with  a 
deep  expression  of  pain ;  the  hair,  beard,  eyelashes,  etc.,  are  all 
real.  With  strange  taste,  the  image  is  clothed  with  a  small 
embroidered   petticoat. 

Even   Tommy   liked   this   cathedral   better   than    most   he   had  seen 

in  his  travels,  because  as  he  ex- 
pressed it,  "  the  side-shows  were 
all  first-rate."  The  clocks  of  the 
cathedral  are  furnished  with  small 
figures,  which  come  out  as  the 
hour  strikes,  like  the  famous  one 
at  Berne.  About  one  of  these  the 
sacristan  told  them  this  legend,  in 
a  broken  sort  of  French,  which 
made  it    more   impressive. 

It  was  about  a  king  of  Spain, 
Enrique  the  Third,  who  lived  in 
the  fifteenth  century,  and  a  young 
girl  who  used  to  see  him  frequently 
in  the  cathedral,  although  no  word 
was   ever   exchanged   between   them   at   their   meetings. 

One  day  in  leaving  the  church,  the  young  unknown  dropped  her 
handkerchief.  The  king  picked  it  up  and  gave  it  to  her,  when  the 
fair  one  disappeared  and  was  seen  no  more.  A  year  after,  the 
king  became  lost  in  the  woods  one  time,  and  was  attacked  by  six 
hungry  wolves ;  he  killed  three  of  them  with  his  sword,  but  after 
that  he  began  to  feel  tired ;  and  he  was  about  to  be  devoured  by 
the  others,  when  suddenly  he  heard  the  sound  of  a  gun,  and  a 
strange   cry,  at   which    the   three  wolves   fled.     He  turned   round  and 


ONE  OF  THE    BELLS. 


THE  CATHEDRAL.  49 

beheld  the  young  woman  he  had  seen  in  the  cathedral.  He  advanced 
towards  her,  when  she  said  with  a  strange  smile,  "I  love  the 
memory  of  the  Cid  so  much  that  I  love  all  that  is  great  and 
noble  ;  thus  I  have  wished  to  consecrate  to  you  my  life.  Accept 
the   sacrifice." 

As  she  spoke  thus  she  fell  dying  to  the  ground,  pressing  to  her 
heart   the   king's    handkerchief. 

The  king,  moved  by  such  devotion,  wished  to  honor  the  memory 
of  his  preserver,  and  hit  upon  the  singular  plan  of  putting  an  image 
into  a  clock  in  the  cathedral,  which  at  every  hour  should  remind 
him  of  the  cry  of  the  girl  in  the  forest.  He  wished  the  figure  to 
repeat  the  very  words  she  used,  but  the  skill  of  the  Moorish  artist 
of  that  period  was  not  up  to  the  idea,  and  he  achieved  only  a 
puppet  of  life-size,  which  made  a  kind  of  shriek  when  its  time 
came.  It  caused  so  much  amusement  afterwards  to  the  irreverent, 
and  disturbance  to  the  faithful,  that  its  springs  were  broken  by  the 
order  of  the  ruling  bishop,  and  ever  since  the  puppet  has  been 
silent. 

Spain  is  full  of  legends  and  romances,  which  seem  worth  listening 
to  on  the  spot,  however  absurd  they  become  when  transferred  from 
their  natural  surroundings.  The  Cid  still  lives.  Roderick  the  Goth 
is  a  fact,  and  as  for  the  Moors,  they  assert  their  rightful  claim  to 
the  soil  everywhere,  while  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  appear  like  mon- 
sters who  drove  them  from  their  inheritance.  The  defects  in  the 
Moorish  morality  are  forgotten,  and  they  figure  as  martyrs  to  the 
imagination. 


5( 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  bPAlN. 


CHAPTER   VI. 


A     LONG    NIGHT. 


SHORTLY  before  nine  p.  m.,  after  another  meal  in  the  up- 
stairs dining-room,  the  Homers  cHmbed  again  into  the 
mule-bus  and  started  off  to  the  station.  They  had  seen  the  empty 
vehicle   every    time    they    went    in    or   out    of    the    hotel,    for    it   was 


OMNIBUS  WITH   MULES. 


kept   out   in    the    street    before    the   door,    hard    by  the  mules  in  their 
stable   under   the   house. 

Mr.  Horner,  and  even  Miss  Lejeune,  were  a  little  low  in  their 
minds  on  account  of  anticipating  the  long  night  journey  which 
was  before  them.  This  is  the  great  drawback  of  travelling  in 
Spain.  The  through  trains  all  fly  by  night  like  bats,  and  turn 
and  twist  as  you  may,  and  thumb  your  time  tables  o'er  and  o'er, 
there  is  no  method  of  evading  the  discomfort.  The  party  all  had 
such  a  passion  for  looking  out  of  windows  at  the  scenery,  wherever 
they  were,  that  it  was  a  positive  loss  to  them  to  pass  over  so 
much    ground    in    the   dark,   and    this    regret  was    added    to    the    dis- 


A  LONG  NIGHT. 


51 


•^v 


comfort   of   a   night's  journey.     However,    it  was   not   to    be    helped. 

After   a   little  futile    inquiry   for   wagons-lits,    which    are    supposed    to 

exist,  but  which   are   always   on   some  other  line  than    the  one  where 

they  are   wanted,  they 

settled  themselves  into 

their      corners,      with 

through      tickets      for 

Madrid,      facing      the 

prospect    of    eleven 

hours  and  a  half  shut 

up     in    their    carriage. 

They  were  all  so 
tired  after  a  day  of 
busy  sight-seeing  that 
they  felt  sure  of  a 
good  nap  to  begin 
with,  and  so  without 
their  usual  lively  chat, 
they  prepared  for  the 
night,  opening  the 
straps  and  disposing  of 
rugs  and  shawls  as 
best  they  could  in  the 
way  of  pillows  and 
coverings.  Luckily 
there  was  no  one  else 
in  the  carriage,  as 
Miss  Lejeune  observed 
with    thankfulness. 

"  So  I  can  make 
myself  as  hideous  as 
I   please,"   she   added. 

This  she  proceeded 
to  do  by  tying  a  blue 


veil    tight    across    her 


FLOWER  FNG    ALOE. 


52  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN-. 

forehead,  and  bringing  the  ends  around  under  her  chin,  after 
which  she  crammed  herself  back  into  a  corner  with  her  feet  up  and 
well  tucked  in.  They  had  drawn  the  thin  silk  curtain  across  the 
hole  in  the  top  of  the  carriage  through  which  the  gleam  came 
from   a   dim   lamp,    but    some    little   light    still   made    itself  felt. 

"I  love  to  look  at  you,  aunt  Gus,"  said  Bessie  sleepily;  "you 
look  like  a  mysterious  blue  sphinx  in  that  corner  off  there.  The 
veil   is  very  becoming  so." 

"  I  am  glad  you  are  my  only  admirer  just  now,"  replied  Miss 
Lejeune  gloomily. 

Tommy  was  apparently  fast  asleep  in  the  position  with  which  he 
had  first  dropped;    but  he  suddenly  exclaimed: 

"  What  has  become  of  the  H.  family !  We  saw  nothing  of  them 
at    Burgos  ! " 

"  To  be  sure  ! "  cried  Bessie,  waked  up  by  the  question.  "  They 
must  be  lost.  We  have  not  seen  them  since-  Irun !  Papa,  have 
you  seen  them  .-*  " 

"  Hm-m-m,"  was  the  sole  reply  of  her  father. 

"Hush,  Bessie,"  said  Miss  Lejeune;    "your  father  is  asleep  already." 

"  Valladolid  !  "  he  murmured  in  a  thick  and  sleepy  voice. 

"  Do  you  suppose,"  said  Bessie,  now  in  a  much  lower  tone,  "  that 
they  went  on  to  Valladolid  without  stopping  at  all  at  Burgos  ?  They 
must  be  idiots! " 

"  You  don't  know,  my  dear.  I  believe  Valladolid  is  very  inter- 
esting, or  they  may  have  special  reasons.  " 

"  She  looked  like  an  artist,  the  tall  one,  "  said  Bessie  ;  "  are  there 
pictures  at  Valladolid  ?  " 

"Do  shut  up!"  barked  Tommy;  "can't  you  let  a  fellow 
sleep  }  " 

The  remonstrance  though  inelegant  was  just,  and  Bessie,  without 
resenting  it,  closed  her  lips  and  eyes  at  once. 

So  they  all  travelled  to  Madrid  through  the  Land  of  Nod,  for  nod 
it  is,  with  the  jar  and  jolt  of  the  train.  All  was  silence  in  every 
compartment  as  the  long  train  swept  through  the  darkness,  occa- 
sionally  stopping   with   a    jerk   at    a   station,    then    starting   off    with 


A  LONG  NIGHT. 


53 


another  jerk.  The  four  were  not  often  all  asleep  at  the  same 
time.  Each  had  his  or  her  periods  of  misery,  when  a  change  of 
position  was  absolutely  necessary.  There  was  a  twist  and  a  turn, 
a  thumping  of  pillows,  and  then  the  weary  head  fell  down  again 
in  a  new  posture,  not   better,  perhaps,  but    at    least  different. 

Once  they  were  all  awake  but  Tommy,  who  slept  straight  through 
like  a  top.  They  compared  watches,  and  found  it  was  only  half- 
past  twelve.  The  night  seemed  endless ;  and  when  it  came  to  an 
end,  the  journey  did 

i  — 


not.  At  dawn  they 
bestirred  themselves 
and  looked  out  upon 
the  landscape.  It 
was  raining  steadily, 
and  the  country  was 
wild  and  barren  in 
the  extreme,  without 
verdure  or  vegeta- 
tion ;  huge  piles  of 
irregular  rocks  were 
tumbled    about,    with 


SPANISH   MILK  JUGS. 


here  and  there  a  scrubby  pine.  Salvator  Rosa  might  have  painted 
a  bit  anywhere,  into  which  a  bandit  with  his  gun  would  have 
come  very  naturally. 

How  the  Horners  felt  is  well  known  to  those  who  themselves 
have  waked  up  at  dawn  in  a  railway  carriage  with  the  prospect  of 
several  hours  more  travel.  Their  mouths  were  parched,  their  cheeks 
hot,  their  heads  dishevelled,  their  limbs  all  stiiT  and  cramped  ;  and 
they  were  faint  for  want  of  coffee  or  something  refreshing.  The 
lunch-box  had  chocolate  in  it,  dried  ginger  and  a  few  sweet  biscuit  ; 
but  Tommy  was  the  only  one  who  found  these  things  at  all  accept- 
able. 

A  woman  at  a  station  was  calling  "•  Lcche !  lechc !''  and  Mr. 
Horner  bought  from  the  window  in  exchange  for  a  very  small  coin, 
a   lovely  red  jug   containing  goat's   milk.      He    and    Tommy   liked   it, 


64 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


really,  but  Miss  Lejeune  shook  her  head  without  trying  it,  and  Bessie 
shuddered    after   one    taste,  and    took   no    more. 

"  How  stupid  you  are  not  to  like  milk,"  said  Tommy  crossly. 
Tommy  was  rather  cross,  but  nobody  minded  it.  They  were  too 
uncomfortable    to    mind    it. 

"  It  is  milk  that  does  not  like  me,"  said  Bessie  meekly.  "  I  have 
no   objection    to    it." 

As  the  light  strengthened,  their  spirits  rose  somewhat  by  the 
gloomy   interest   of   the    wet    and    dripping    landscape.      The    famous 


MADRID   IN  THE   DISTANCE. 


Escorial  was  passed  upon  their  left,  they  swept  through  the  last  long 
tunnel,  and  saw  Madrid  in  the  distance,  nearing  fast,  the  royal  palace 
crowning  the  height  in  front. 

The  scene  at  the  station  was  much  like  any  other  European 
experience.  Everything  showed  that  they  had  reached  a  large 
cosmopolitan  centre.  Cabs  and  omnibuses  were  in  attendance,  and 
they   were    soon    passing    through    a    gateway    to    ascend    the    steep 


A  LONG  NIGHT. 


55 


hill  leading  to  the  town.  An  official  stopped  them  at  the  entrance- 
gate,  and  fumbled  with  their  hand-bags  ;  but  it  was  only  a  brief 
formality,  and  soon  they  found  themselves  in  comfortable  rooms  at 
the    Hotel   de   la    Paix,    on    the   beautiful    Puerta   del    Sol. 

"  Puerta   del    Sol,"  said  Tommy,  who    had   recovered  all    his    anima- 


RUYAL   PALACE,    MADRID. 


tion  and  usual  politeness.  "  I  thought  it  was  the  name  of  the 
hotel." 

"  So  did  I,  to  tell  the  truth,"  said  his  father ;  "  or  at  least  my 
ideas   were   not   clear   about    it." 

"  Oh,  papa !  you  must  have  known  that  the  Puerta  del  Sol  was 
a    beautiful    great   square,"    said    Bessie. 

"My  dear,"  said  he  smiling,  "I  have  not  been  reading  up  on 
Spain  as  you  have.  You  must  remember  I  have  scarcely  looked  at 
a    map.     This   is    your    expedition    and    Augusta's." 

This     conversation    was     shouted     across     the     omnibus     as     they 


56  A  LONG  NIGHT. 

rattled  along  the  paved  street,  and  Miss  Lejeune,  who  never  would 
speak  in  a  noise,  smiled  and  nodded,  and  significantly  patted  the 
little  parcel  of  guide-books  and  maps  which  she  held  firmly  in  her 
hand. 

It  was,  in  the  main,  Miss  Lejeune  who  had  laid  out  the  plan  of 
the  Spanish  excursion.  She  had  long  longed  for  the  Peninsula.  In 
her  youth,  long  ago,  the  house  of  a  friend  who  married  a  Spanish 
explorer,  was  filled  with  curiosities,  which  he  had  brought  home, 
and  the  acquaintance  with  these  things  thus  early  planted  in 
her  mind  a  strong  wish  to  visit  the  country ;  there  were  engrav- 
ings from  Velasquez,  terra  cotta  images  of  matadors,  mantas  of 
glowing  stripes,  and  salvers  or  beaten  brass,  all  of  which  helped  to 
make  the  desire  grow.  As  time  went  on,  she  gained  an  under- 
lying conviction  that  sometime  she  was  to  go  to  Spain.  She 
trifled  a  little  with  the  language,  and  even  went  through  a 
grammar.  The  chances  which  had  led  her  several  times  over 
Europe,  and  to  the  East,  had  not  been  favorable  until  now,  when 
she  was  really  about  to  visit  her  long-established  Chateaux  en 
Espagiic,  with  those  dear  Horners,  who  now  furnished  her  life 
with  its  chief  enjoyment.  She  was  very  happy  in  being  thus 
able  to  carry  out  her  dream,  and  in  being  allowed  to  have  her 
own    way   about    it,    too. 

Miss  Lejeune  had  omitted  Valladolid  in  her  plan,  as  it  was 
wise  to  press  on  towards  the  south  before  the  weather  should 
become  too  hot.  But  Valladolid  is  an  interesting  place  which  might 
well    be    used    to    break   the   long  journey  from    Burgos    to   Madrid. 

It  was  for  a  long  time  the  residence  of  the  kings  of  Castile, 
and  later,  in  the  time  of  Philip  the  Second,  who  was  born  there, 
it  was  the  most  prosperous  city  in  Spain.  It  was  he,  however,-  who 
removed  the  court  to  Madrid,  and  this  proved  a  death  blow  to 
the    prosperity    of  the   deserted    city. 

The  Museum  and  Cathedral  contain  some  interesting  pictures 
and  sculpture.  The  Cathedral  was  never  finished  on  the  scale 
intended  by  Herrera,  the  architect  of  Philip  the  Second,  who  made  the 
desio"ns   for   it,    and   began    it,   because    he    was    called    to    Madrid   in 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


57 


order  to  build  the  Escorial ;  and  when  the  court  went  to  Madrid, 
no  funds  were  forthcoming  to  finish  the  abandoned  Cathedral,  and 
so  it  was  merely  put  into  condition  to  be  used,  as  it  was,  for 
public  service.  The  libraries  contain  some  rare  old  books ;  and  the 
streets,  like  all  Spanish  towns,  are  full  of  picturesque  subjects  for 
sketches. 


68 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN, 


CHAPTER  VII. 


MADRID    STREETS. 


AN  excellent  French 
waiter,  with  a  white 
cravat,  and  a  napkin  under 
his  arm,  came  to  take  their 
orders,  —  so  there  was  no 
occasion  for  Spanish  yet, — 
and  soon  returned  bring- 
ing a  broad  plateau,  or  tray, 
loaded  with  refreshing  coffee, 
hot  milk,  chocolate  for  Tom- 
my, bread  and  butter  and 
boiled  eggs,  for  which  Mr. 
Horner  stipulated.  Although 
his  whole  family  were  fond 
of  the  European  system  of 
eating  little  or  nothing  early 
in  the  morning,  Mr.  Hor- 
ner retained  a  secret  prej- 
udice in  favor  of  something 
solid,  and,  whenever  he  could,  he  added  oeiifs  a  la  cogue  to  the  order. 
What  was  more,  he  generally  found  that  all  the  eggs  were  eaten  ;  more 
than  one,  then,  must  share  his  secret  preference,  for  Tommy  and  he 
could  not  eat  them  all.  But  Miss  Lejeune  and  Bessie,  in  Spain,  kept 
up  the  theory  maintained  by  all  the  rest  in  previous  journeys,  that 
they  wished  nothing  but  bread  and  butter  with  the  coffee.  The  Hotel 
de    la     Paix    is    a    large    French    hotel.     Miss    Lejeune    and    Bessie 


COAT   OF   ARMS. 


MADRID  STREETS.  59 

shared  a  room  with  two  high  beds  placed  end  to  end,  filling  up 
the  whole  of  one  side.  Upon  a  great  round  table  which  took  up 
the  middle  of  the  room,  coffee  was  served,  and  Mr.  Horner  and 
Tommy  joined  the  ladies  to  partake  of  it.  Their  own  room  was 
close  at  hand,  smaller,  but  with  the  same  view.  The  large  windows  all 
had  projecting  balconies,  from  which  they  could  look  sideways 
toward  the  Puerta  del  Sol,  although  the  rooms  looked  upon 
a   narrow  side  street. 

As  soon  as  Bessie  had  refreshed  herself  with  one  cup  of  cof- 
fee, she  went  to  the  window  and  established  herself  there,  roll  in 
hand,  that  she  might  lose  none  of  the  wonders  of  the  new  city 
while  she  was  eating.  All  the  windows  had  balconies,  and  many 
of  them  striped  awnings.  Opposite,  and  somewhat  lower,  a  barber 
had  a  little  bird  with  a  red  tuft  on  its  head,  hopping  about  with 
a  long  string  to  its  leg.  Within  the  room  Bessie  could  see  the 
barber,  shaving ;  but  from  time  to  time,  he  left  his  customer  to 
come  and  see  the  bird,  with  his  cigarette  in  his  mouth  ;  kissed  his 
hand  to  it,  puffed  a  Httle  smoke  in  its  face,  to  console  it  for 
being  tied,  and  went  in  again.  A  hand-organ  below  was  playing 
charming  Spanish  dance-music.  A  still  narrower  street,  a  mere 
lane,  in  fact,  opened  nearly  opposite  them.  It  was  swarming  with 
people  in  strange  colors,  and  a  group  had  collected  at  the  corner 
to  listen  to  the  announcement  of  a  bull-fight.  This  was  Sunday, 
and  the  great  square  was  filled  with  people,  the  women  with  man- 
tillas on  their  head,  and  fans  in  their  hands  instead  of  parasols.  The 
fashionable  ladies  are  giving  up  the  pretty  mantilla  for  Paris  bon- 
nets, which  is  a  great  pity,  for  a  bonnet  does  not  look  right  on 
a  Spanish  fair  one;  but  it  is  still  the  rule  to  wear  the  mantilla 
to  church,  so  that  in  the  morning  the  streets  of  Madrid  are  filled 
with  devotional  mantillas,  while  later  on  in  the  day  only  foolish  French 
hats  prevail. 

Suddenly  Bessie  called  out,  "  Oh,  come !  come  quick ! "  and  the 
others  reached  the  balcony  in  time  to  see  the  end  of  a  cavalcade 
•of  royal  guards  in  white  boitrnous,  following  the  king's  carriages. 
Bessie    had    seen    the   whole ;    a   string   of    carriages    with    outriders, 


60  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

postilions,    and    much    gold   ornament,   followed    by   mounted    guards. 
It  was  his  Majesty  going  to  church. 

These  excitements,  however,  could  not  make  the  travellers  forget 
their  fatigue.  It  is  the  worst  part  of  night  travelling,  that  it  unfits 
one  for  much  sight-seeing  the  next  day,  and  thus  the  time  is  as 
much  lost  as  it  would  be  in  the  train.  While  Mr.  Horner  and 
Tommy  went  out  to  find  their  bankers.  Miss  Lejeune  and  Bessie 
were  refreshed  with  delicious  baths,  which  were  to  be  had  in  this 
hotel.  The  others  returned  with  their  hands  full  of  letters  from 
America,  England,  and  Luz,  the  little  place  in  the  Pyrenees  where 
were  Mary,  Philip  and  their  mother. 

"  Oh,  how  splendid ! "  exclaimed  Bessie,  as  she  took  her  share. 
"  But  I  am  so  sleepy  that  I  must  go  to  bed,  and  read  them 
afterward.  Is  everybody  well,  papa  ?  "  she  asked,  for  she  saw  the 
well-known  handwriting  of  her  mother  upon  the  sheet  he  was 
reading. 

"  Perfectly ;    and   they   seem   very   happy   there,"    he   answered. 

"I  must  write  them  volumes,"  she  continued;  "but  how  hard 
it  will  be  when  we  want  to  be  in  the  streets  all  the  time!" 

"You  had  better  take  long  naps,  both  of  you,"  said  Mr.  Horner, 
"and  Tommy,  too.  Almuerzo  is  eleven,  and  after  that  we  can  drive 
or  walk." 

Mr.  Horner  had  letters  of  introduction  to  several  people  in 
Madrid,  but  he  did  not  deliver  them  at  this  time.  It  was  their 
plan  to  come  back  to  Madrid  later,  after  taking  their  fill  of 
Andalusia,  and  the  southern  wonders  of  Spain. 

Nevertheless,  they  wished  to  see  all  they  could  of  the  national 
capital  this  time,  and  in  the  afternoon,  thoroughly  refreshed  by 
sleep,  and  almuerzo,  and  with  glowing  and  grateful  hearts,  because 
of  good  news  in  all  their  letters,  they  took  an  open  carriage  to 
drive  about  Madrid. 

Their  driver  was  a  Madrileno,  but  with  the  help  of  a  few  words 
of  explanation  given  him  by  the  portier,  who  spoke  everythino-, 
before  starting,  they  made  him  understand  that  they  wished  to  see 
the  principal  points  of  interest  within  the  city. 


MADRID  STREETS.  63 

The  Puerta  del  Sol,  the  central  square  of  Madrid,  is  a  laro-e 
sunny  space  with  a  fountain  in  the  middle,  wide  streets  and  broad 
sidewalks  surrounding  it,  and  tall  handsome  buildings  on  all  sides, 
chiefly  hotels  with  gay  shops  on  the  street-floor.  There  are  tracks 
for  the  ferro-carril,  tramway,  or  horse-cars,  as  we  call  them ;  besides, 
in  Madrid,  there  are  large  heavy  vehicles  like  horse-cars,  which  go 
where  they  please  ;  not  on  any  track.  The  plaza  and  streets  leading 
from  it  are  so  wide  that  these  cars  do  not  encumber  them,  nor 
interfere  materially  with  the  crowds  of  gay  equipages  which  throng 
them,  especially  on  Sunday,  when  all  the  world  is  going  to  the 
Bull  Ring. 

The  Horners  were  not  going  to  the  Bull  Ring,  but  their  carriage 
joined  the  gay  crowd  sweeping  in  that  direction,  along  the  slope  of 
the  Calle  de  Alcala,  passing  the  Fountain  of  Cibeles,  where  they 
turned  to  drive  along  the  Prado,  a  broad,  beautiful  avenue  planted 
with  trees  and  ornamented  with  fountains,  whose  plashing  water 
sparkled  in  the  sun.  Iron  chairs  were  placed  in  rows,  which  could 
be  hired  for  a  trifling  sum,  by  any  one  wishing  to  rest.  Here 
first  the  Horners  observed  the  "cooling-drinks  shops,"  —  booths  where 
all  sorts  of  refreshing  and  not  intoxicating  drinks  are  sold.  The 
Spanish  have  an  extreme  fondness  for  this  harmless  refreshment. 
The  number  of  such  places  shows  the  demand  for  them.  The 
venders  call  out,  ''Aqua  fresca  como  la  nieve"  (water  cool  as  snow), 
and  for  a  very  small  coin  they  will  furnish  a  glass  of  something 
cold  and  sweet,  flavored  with  strange  essences.  Tommy's  favorite 
was  horchata  de  chnfas,  a  very  superior  beverage  of  a  milky  appear- 
ance, and  a  flavor  something  like  orgeat.  All  these  drinks  are 
very  mild,  and  are  but  slightly  tinged  with  the  flavoring  substance. 
There  has  to  be  a  good  deal  of  "  make-believe,"  as  in  the  case  of 
the  lemonade  of  the  Marchioness,  in  order  to  discover  what  one  is 
tasting.  It  gives  a  pleasant  impression  of  the  moderation  in  the 
taste  of  a  people  which  contents  itself  with  such  mild  refreshment, 
instead  of  the  heavy  lager  which  the  German  loves,  or  the  fiery 
drinks  of  all  Northern  nations. 

The    booths   where    these   things   are   furnished   are   kept  by  some 


64 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


old  woman,  very  friendly,  offering  chairs,  or  perhaps  a  small  girl, 
hardly  tall  enough  to  reach  across  her  counter.  The  water  used  is 
in  tall  jars,  porous,  to  keep  the  water  cool  by  perspiration,  a  thing 
the    Horners    had    learned    to    understand    on    the    Nile. 

It    was    much   later   that    the    children    became    learned    in    cooliiiig 


COOLING  DRINKS. 


drinks.     On   that   first   day   they   only   wondered    at   the    little    stalls 
where   they   were    sold. 

There  were  so  many  things  to  see  that  they  could  not  fasten 
their  attention  upon  any  one  set  of  impressions.  Their  heads  were 
turning  from  side  to  side,  to  catch  glimpses  of  fine  horses  dashing 
by  them;  —  ladies  in  full  costume,  mantilla  and  fan,  leaning  back  in 
their  open  carriages,  —  fountains,  monuments,  fine  buildings,  set  their 
brains   in   a  whirl. 


MADRID  STREETS. 


65 


Madrid  is  said  to  have  little  or  nothing  Spanish  about  it ;  to  be 
a  feeble  imitation  of  Paris ;  in  short,  only  a  second-rate  European 
metropolis.  The  Homers  did  not  agree  with  this  verdict,  for  they 
found  it  marked,  on  the  contrary,  with  great  individuality.  The 
streets  and  modern  buildings  are  after  the  manner  of  French 
models,  undoubtedly,  but  there  is  a  Southern  swing  in  the  life  and 
movement  of  the  sun-bathed  city;  and  though  the  population  has 
a  European  character  in  its  dress,  many  picturesque  costumes  are 
to     be     seen.     The     equipages     and    horses     exhibit    an    amount    of 


EL  BUEN   RETIRO. 


wealth,   taste  and  extravagance  at  least   equal  to  that  of  any  city  of 
the   same   size   in    Europe. 

They   passed    the    facade    of    the    Royal    Museum,  which    contains 
the    famous    picture    gallery,    promising    themselves,    on    their    return 


66 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


from  Andalusia,  many  visits  to  its  treasures.  It  is  a  modern 
building  with  columns,  imposing  in  appearance,  though  perhaps  too 
low  for  its  great  length.  It  was  fitted  up  for  pictures  in  the  early 
part  of  this  century;  the  collection  of  splendid  works  of  art  it 
contains  makes    it   perhaps    the    finest    gallery    in    the   world. 

They  drove  through  the  Buen  Retiro,  a  pleasant  shady  promenade 
planted  with  hedges  of  lilac  and  other  spring  flowers,  still  in  bloom. 
Their  driver  brought  them  back  by  a  turn  quite  around  the  town, 
that  they  might  see  the  outside  of  the  handsome  Royal  Palace, 
and  through  the  Plaza  del  Oriente,  where  is  a  fine  equestrian  statue 
of  Philip  the  Fourth  on  his  war  charger.  The  design  was  by 
Velasquez,  and  Galileo  is  said  to  have  suggested  the  means  by 
which  the  balance  is  preserved.  The  horse  is  rearing  so  high  that 
this  is  affected  only  by  having  the  front  part  hollow,  and  the  back 
solid. 


Hj^'-vS'^^A^ 


■^,hi^*'S4i--'J^  -Vv  ^Ka,vr^^JAt>^\4A\«:- 


HISTORICAL,  '  67 


CHAPTER   VIII. 


HISTORICAL. 


AS  they  were  coming  back  to  their  hotel  through  the  steep 
and  somewhat  narrow  Calle  Mayor,  a  train  of  royal  carriages 
passed  them.  At  first,  Bessie  and  Tommy  thought  they  were  to 
meet  his  Majesty  face  to  face,  but  it  was  only  the  royal  baby 
returning  from  her  airing,  in  two  carriages,  with  postilions  and 
outriders.  The  poor  little  thing,  although  wrapped  about  in  rich 
robes  of  soft  white,  looked  as  helpless  as  any  other  mortal  child. 
She  is  an  object  for  sympathy  rather  than  envy,  because  she  is 
a  princess,  when  she  should  have  been  a  prince,  heir  to  the 
throne  upon  which  her  papa  finds  his  seat  somewhat  unsteady. 

It  is  now  nine  years  since  Alphonso  the  Twelfth  was  proclaimed 
king  at  Madrid.  He  is  the  eldest  son  of  Isabella  the  Second,  herself 
the  daughter  of  King  Ferdinand  the  Seventh,  and  of  Princess  Marie 
Christine  of  the  two  Sicilies.  Isabella  was  proclaimed  queen  in  1833, 
when  she  was  but  three  years  old.  Ten  years  later,  when  she  was 
thirteen,  she  was  declared  to  be  of  age  by  a  decree  of  the  Cortes,  and 
was  married  not  long  after  to  her  first  cousin,  Francisco,  a  son  of 
the  brother  of  King  Ferdinand  the  Seventh.  It  might  seem  that 
the  eldest  son  of  parents,  both  of  whom  have  a  claim  to  the  throne, 
would  have  made  his  way  to  it,  without  opposition,  in  the  due 
course  of  events ;  but  this  has  not  been  the  case.  On  the  contrary, 
civil  war  raged  from  the  time  of  Isabella's  accession  to  the  throne 
up  to  the  moment  when  her  son  was  placed  upon  it,  and  ever 
since  politicians  and  patriots  have  watched  with  anxiety  the  doubtful 
experiment  of  a  government  under  the  present  constitution, —  a 
monarchy  shorn  of  the  splendors  which  formerly  added  so  much 
to   the  presence  of  a  king,  and  closely  restricted  in  its  powers. 


68 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


The  constitution  declares  Alphonso  the  Twelfth  of  Bourbon,  to  be 
the  legitimate  king  of  Spain.  His  person  is  inviolable,  but  his  minis- 
ters are  responsible,  and  all  his  orders  must  be  countersigned  by  a 
minister.     There   is   a   Cortes,    which   shares  the   power   of   the   king, 


'"^^^ 


FOUNTAIN   OF  NEPTUNE. 


composed,  like  our  Congress,  of  two  legislative  bodies.  The  Senate 
is  composed  of  sons  of  kings  and  other  personages,  and  the 
Congress  of     Deputies    chosen    by   the    people. 

Thus  it  will  be  seen,  that  the  plan  is  to  have  the  government  as 
free  as  that  of  a  Republic,  while  the  head  of  it  is  called  a  king,  and 
he  is  permitted  to  be  the  head  on  account  of  his  hereditary  rights, 
instead  of  being  the  choice  of  the  people ;  yet  he  would  not  remain 
at  the  head  for  an  instant  without  the  assent  of  the  public.  A 
country  which  from  all  time  has  been  governed  by  kings,  probably 
feels  more  at  ease  under  the  nominal  rule  of  a  monarch  ;  and  this 
is  the  present  condition  of  things  in  Spain.  Repuplican  government 
has   been    tried  more  than  once  in    the    tempestuous    period  since  the 


HISTORICAL.  69 

death  of  Ferdinand,  in  1833;  and  it  is  because  all  lovers  of 
Spanish  prosperity  feel  that  the  only  hope  for  Spain  is  in  a  period 
of  peace  and  tranquility,  that  there  is  a  general  hope  for  a 
continuance  of  the  experiment  by  which  Alphonso  and  his  dynasty 
may  be  firmly  established  upon  the  throne.  For  this  reason,  a  little 
prince  would  be  hailed  with  delight  as  heir  to  the  throne.  The 
Spaniards  would  be  kindled  to  something  like  enthusiasm  for  a 
future  king,  born  in  a  peaceful  period,  of  the  line  of  inherited 
royalty ;  so  the  disappointment  was  great  when  a  little  princess 
appeared  mto  the  world.  She  should  have  been  a  prince,  and  this 
is  why  the  Horners  called  her  the  poor  little  princess,  in  spite  of 
her  having  a  duchess  for  governess,  and  outriders  before  and 
behind    when    she   takes    her   little   airing. 

"  How  stupid  of  her  not  to  be  a  prince ! "  said  Tommy,  when 
these    things   were  being    explained    to    him. 

"  She  cannot  help  it,"  said  Bessie,  "  and  it  is  a  shame  that 
people    should    not   be  just   as   fond   of  her   as  fifty   boys." 

"  I  dare  say  her  papa  aud  mamrria  are  fond  of  her,"  said  Miss 
Lejeune  ;  "it  is  only  the  public  that  is  disappointed.  Very  likely  she 
will  have  a  much  happier  life  than  a  little  prince  would  have  done. 
In    the   first    place  she    will    not   be    spoiled,"  — 

"Nor  fussed  over  about  her  health,"  continued  Bessie,  "nor  made 
to  wear  crowns  and  carry  sceptres.  I  dare  say  she  will  live  to 
a  peaceful  old  age,  with  plenty  to  eat  and  drink,  and  good  clothes, 
in   a   comfortable   palace    all   her   life." 

"And   paint   very    nicely   in   water-colors,"    added    Miss    Lejeune. 

It  is  perhaps  necessary  to  touch  briefly  upon  the  troubles  in 
Spain  which  have  brought  the  nation  to  this  fervent  desire  for 
peace   and    repose    on   any   terms. 

Ferdinand  the  Seventh  was  an  unworthy,  contemptible  king  ;  one  of 
the  worst  specimens  of  the  Bourbon  type.  His  father,  Charles 
the  Fourth,  abdicated  the  throne  in  terror,  the  nineteenth  of  March, 
1808,  when  Napoleon's  army  was  marching  upon  Madrid,  and  announced 
his  son  Ferdinand  as  his  successor  ;  whom,  too.  Napoleon  forced  to 
abdicate,   for   as    usual,    it  was   his   plan  to   furnish    his   own    king    to 


70 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  TUROUGH  SPAIN. 


Spain ;  and  Joseph  Bonaparte  entered  Madrid  and  took  possession 
of  the  throne.  But  this  could  not  be  allowed  to  last.  The 
opposition  of  the  Spaniards  was  enforced  by  the  arrival  of  ten 
thousand  English  troops  in  Portugal,  under  Sir  Arthur  Wellesley, 
who  now  for  the  first  time  began  that  resistance  to  Napoleon 
which,    as   Wellington,    he    crowned    at   Waterloo.      The    struggle    in 

Spain    lasted     six    years,    but     by 


rutf. 


FERDINAND   VII. 


that  time  the  invincible  legions 
of  Napoleon  were  defeated.  During 
this  time  the  Emperor  himself 
descended  upon  Madrid  ;  Sir  John 
Moore  was  defeated  and  killed, 
the  wonderful  siege  of  Saragossa 
took  place,  when  the  resisting 
Spaniards,  conducted  by  Palafox, 
and  inspired  by  the  maid  of  Sara- 
gossa, held  out  fifty  days  against 
the  French,  and  many  another  dis- 
aster fell  upon  one  army  or  the 
other;  but  in  the  end  the  French 
were  driven  out,  and  left  the  country  after  the  famous  battle 
of  Vittoria,  June,  1813,  when  WeUington,  as  Sir  Arthur  Wellesley 
had    already   become,    ended    the    contest. 

Joseph  was  deposed,  Ferdinand  was  reinstated.  At  the  same 
time  another  Bourbon  prince,  Louis  the  Eighteenth  returned  to  rule 
in   France,    for   Napoleon's   career   was   over. 

But  a  worthless  prince,  like  Ferdinand,  had  no  power,  if  he  had 
incHnation,  to  heal  the  wounds  of  a  country  bleeding  after  the 
contest  of  six  years.  Civil  war  broke  out,  and  with  it  came  misery, 
famine  and  ruin.  Ferdinand  was  carried  off  to  Cadiz  a  prisoner 
by  his  subjects,  but  was  again  liberated  by  a  foreign  army,  this 
time  from  France.  It  was  after  this  that  he  married  his  fourth 
wife,  Maria  Christina,  1829,  his  own  niece.  In  1830,  their  daughter 
Isabella  was  born.  It  will  not  now  appear  surprising  that  this 
princess   was   not   at   the    time    regarded   with    much    affection.     Her 


HISTORICAL. 


71 


chance  of  reigning  was  but  slight,  although  at  her  birth  the  law 
allowed  women  to  succeed ;  but  it  was  comparatively  modern,  and 
all  Spanish  prejudice  was,  and  is,  in  favor  of  the  Salic  law, 
by  which  a  woman  can  reign  only  in  default  of  male  heirs.  Now 
the  king  had  a  brother  whose  claim  was  fairly  good  to  the  throne ; 
who  moreover  had  sons  in  plenty  to  furnish  heirs,  one  of  whom, 
Don  Carlos,  born  in  1788,  had  an  absolute  right  to  the  throne  in 
default   of  male   heirs. 

This  is  the  foundation  of  the  so-called  Carlist  War,  which  lasted 
up  to  the  time  of  Alphonso's  arrival  upon  the  throne.  Ferdinand 
died  shortly  after  the 
birth  of  Isabella,  but  her 
mother,  Christina,  was 
very  popular  as  regent, 
and  in  her  name  the 
contest  was  carried  on. 

During  this  time  the 
state  of  the  country  was 
so  unsettled  that  travel- 
ling was  almost  impos- 
sible. Lawlessness  pre- 
vailed, brigands  were  free 
to  attack  and  carry  off 
people  they  met,  and  hold 
them  for  treason.  All 
internal  improvements 
were  at  a  standstill,  and 
high-roads  and  railways  were  far  behind  the  general  standard  of 
Europe. 

All  this  has  greatly  changed  for  the  better,  and  tourists,  even 
if  indifferent  to  the  welfare  of  the  Spanish  race,  must  be  grateful 
to  the  present  state  of  order  which  renders  travelling  as  easy  and 
comfortable  as  in  any  part  of  Europe,  making  allowance  for  certain 
drawbacks  made  inevitable  by  long  distances. 

The  Carlist  contest,  after  many  successes  and  defeats,  came  to  an  end 


CHRISTINA. 


72 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


in    1840.     Isabella  the    Second    came  herself  to  the  throne,  and  there 
was   ao'ain    hope    of    repose    for    the    country ,     but    she   was     quite 
unworthy    to  govern,    being    incapable  of   governing   herself;    a  series 
of  ministers    held  the   affairs  of  state.     Although  some  of   them  were 
of    the    first    order   of    capacity    to    deal   well    with     difficult    matters, 
there   came  a   time  when    Isabella    was   driven   from   the   throne    into 
exile  •     a   provisional    government    was    formed,    and    every   plan    was 
suo-o-ested   for  a  permanent  one ;    and    finally  a  new  king  was  elected, 
by  the   Cortes,  the   Duke  of   Aosta,  Amadeo,  son  of   Victor  Emman- 
uel.    He   was    invested    with    the 
royal    dignities   on  the  second  of 
January,  1871  ;  but  not  later  than 
February,     1873,     he     abdicated, 
having    found    it     impossible     to 
govern   constitutionally  in  Spain  ; 
his   life   had   been   attempted,  his 
queen  was  rudely  treated    by  the 
grand  Spanish  ladies,  and  he  was 
conspicuously  unpopular  with  the 
people.       Thus    was    shown    the 
strange    spectacle   of    the    throne 
of    Spain,   which   was    once     the 
seat   of   the   greatest   power,   and 
also    the    centre   of    the   splendor 
of     the     world,     abandoned     vol- 
untarily by  the  occupant   chosen  for  it ! 

Then  came  what  was  called  republican  government.  Almost  any 
one  who  was  wilUng  to  try  his  hand  at  playing  President  might 
have  a  chance.  The  reaction  from  this  chaotic  state  of  things 
brought  about  the  coming  of  the  present  king,  a  thoroughly  edu- 
cated prince,  brought  up  far  away  from  his  ignoble  mother,  in 
France  and  England. 

His  life  has  been  a  sad  one  in  one  respect.  He  was  first  married 
to  his  cousin  Mercedes,  the  daughter  of  the  Duke  of  Montpensier, 
a    young    lady  said    by   all    to   have  been    sweet   and   lovely,  and   sin- 


HISTORICAL. 


73 


cerely  loved  by  her  husband.  She  died,  and  he  is  now  married  to 
an  Austrian  princess,  Maria  Christina,  who  is  the  mother  of  the 
little  girl  the  Horners  saw,  and  of  another  princess  who  was  born 
afterwards,  in  the  summer  of  1882. 

It  has  been  for  those  who  have  hved  through  the  period  we  have 
just  been  touching  upon,  so  confusing  to  follow  in  brief  newspaper 
bulletins  the  ups  and  downs  of  the  Spanish  peninsula,  that  some  out- 
siders are,  like  the  Horners,  but  ill-informed  upon  the  subject.  As 
they  were  now  in  the  country,  they  found  it  interesting  as  well  as 
desirable  to  study  up  the  subject,  and  the  result  of  their  researches 
is  what  is  here  given. 


pitt-T/i^iR^lK\iS4 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


AN     INCIDENT. 


J 


"UST  as  the  Horners  drove  up  to 
the  door  of  the  hotel,  through 
the  plaza  crowded  with  people,  they 
had  the  luck  to  see  the  king  and 
all  his  suite,  driving  by  on  their 
return  from  the  bull-fight.  The 
bull-fight  was  late,  the  king  was 
late,  worst  of  all  the  Horners  were 
late,  and  the  table  cf  Jwte  dinner 
nearly  over  when  they  entered  the 
dining-room :  only  a  few  people 
were  lingering  over  dessert,  or  sip- 
ping their  coffee.  The  patient,  assid- 
uous waiters,  however,  cheerfully 
prepared  to  begin  all  over  again. 
They  showed  them  to  their  seats, 
brought  the  soup,  and  resigned  themselves  to  bringing  back  all  the 
courses   of  the   long   dinner. 

"  It  is  really  too  bad  we  are  so  late,"  said  Miss  Lejeune.  "  I 
am   always    sorry   for   the    waiters." 

"  It  is  a  pity,  but  they  are  used  to  it,"  said  Mr.  Horner ;  "  besides, 
we  could  not  help  it,  for  the  streets  were  so  blocked  our  driver 
had    to   go    slowly." 

"  We  did  not  see  the  king  coming  back,  after  all,"  said  Tommy. 
Just  as  he  was  speaking,  a  waiter  who  flattered  himself  he  spoke 
English,  said  : 

"Look   you   now   here,    my    master,    they   come!" 


COAT  OF   ARMS   OF  TOLEDO. 


AN  INCIDENT.  75 

And  sure  enough,  the  whole  royal  procession  swept  by,  out- 
riders, carriages,  and  the  long  train  of  escorts,  in  handsome  uniforms, 
with  white  burnous  thrown  on  their  shoulders,  more  gorgeous  than  their 
simple  morning-array. 

"This  is  doing  pretty  well,  Tommy,  to  see  the  king  twice 
on   your   first   day  in    Madrid ! "    said   his   father. 

They  went  back  to  their  dinner,  and  devoted  themselves  to  it,  for 
they  all  were  hungry,  and  it  was  very  good.  As  it  went  on,  Bessie 
and  Tommy  began  to  take  notice  of  a  party  lower  down  the  table, 
who  were  having,  not  a  regular  dinner,  but  a  sort  of  supper.  A 
French  nurse  was  superintending  the  group,  which  consisted  of  a 
boy  about  Tommy's  age,  a  little  girl  somewhat  younger,  and  a  fat  and 
chubby  child  which  brandished  arms  and  legs  in  the  crude  manner 
belonging   to   the   age   of  three   years   or  less. 

They  had  bowls  of  milk,  and  were  eating  bread  and  butter  and 
orange  marmalade,  and  talking  both  French  and  English  with  their 
mouths    full. 

"  I  say.  Nana,"  said  the  boy,  "  you  might  have  taken  us  to  the 
bull-fight.  That  gentleman  said  at  breakfast  that  it  was  the  noblest 
sight    m    the    world." 

The  nurse  replied  in  French,  though  she  understood  his 
English  : 

"  I  cannot  take  you  to  bull  courses.  When  your  papa  comes  he 
can  do    so,    if  he    sees   fit." 

"  When  papa  comes  !  "  the  boy  exclaimed  impatiently.  "  You  are 
always    saying   that.     I   do   not    believe   he    ever   will    come ! " 

"  Of  course  he  will  come,  Hubert ! "  said  the  little  girl,  who  had 
rather  a  high  voice,  but  a  clear-cut  English  way  of  speaking.  "  We 
have  only  been  two  days  in  Madrid,  and  he  does  not  know 
yet." 

"  But  I  wanted  him  to  be  here  when  we  arrived,"  he  replied. 
"  It  is  all  very  well  for  you  girls  to  be  mewed  up  with  Nana,  but 
I    need    the   companionship  of   a   man." 

Bessie  and  Tommy  glanced  at  each  other  with  signs  of  amuse- 
ment,  when    the    English    boy    made     this    speech      Just    then    the 


76 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


little  child,  while  Nana  was  looking  the  other  way,  made  a  clutch 
at  a  dish  of  oranges  just  out  of  reach.  She  lost  her  balance,  having, 
in  fact,  a  somewhat  msecure  seat  upon  cushions  put  in  a  common  chair 
to  make  it  high  enough.  In  falling,  she  grasped  the  tablecloth,  and 
pulled  it  far  enough  to  overturn  the  oranges,  and  to  set  glasses,  finger- 


BRIDGE   OF  SAINT   MARTIN,   TOLEDO. 


bowls,  knives  and  forks  sliding  about.  Nana  turned  at  once ;  but 
Tommy,  who  was  nearest  the  party,  sprang  first  to  the  rescue, 
and  picked  up  the  baby  almost  before  her  head  touched  the  ground. 
Of  course  she  was  frightened,  however,  and  screamed.  The  English 
children  tried  to   steady  the   sliding   tablecloth;    the  waiters,  who  had 


HOSPITAL  OF  SANTA  CRUZ,   EARLY   i6tH   CENTURY. 


J    J  J  J    J    J    , 


c  c 


AN  INCIDENT.  79 

all  retired  from  the  scene,  hurried  back.  The  commotion  was  over 
in  a  few  minutes,  and  nothing  serious  had  happened  ;  a  wineglass 
had  broken  in  falling  to  the  ground,  and  a  good  deal  of  water  was 
spilt ;    but  that   was    all. 

The  incident  served  as  the  beginning  of  an  acquaintance,  for  not 
only  Bessie  and  Tommy,  but  Mr.  Horner  and  Miss  Lejeune,  left 
their  dinner  to  help  the  nurse  to  restore  order,  and  to  console  the 
children    who   were    dismayed. 

Miss  Lejeune  took  a  napkin  and  dried  the  front  of  the  elder 
girl's  dress,  while  Nana  carried  off  the  screaming  baby,  saving  as 
she  went,  to  the  other  children,  rather  crossly,  "  Come  up,  now,  and 
go   to    bed.     This    is    enough    trouble    for    one   day." 

"Go  to  bed!"  said  Hubert.  "Not  I.  I  shall  go  out  and  walk 
in  the  Puerta  del  Sol." 

Seeing  the  children  thus  left  to  themselves,  Mr.  Horner  ventured 
to  ask  them    if  they  were  alone. 

"Why,  yes,  all  but  Nana!"  Hubert  explained.  "We  are  on  the 
way  to  Gibraltar,  and  we  left  mamma  at  Bordeaux  to  go  up  in  the 
Pyrenees.  And  papa  was  to  meet  us  here,  but  we  arrived  first, 
and  there  is  no  letter.  So  Nana  says  we  must  wait,  which  is 
all  very  well  for  girls,  but  she  does  not  let  me  go  anywhere!" 

"You  promised  mamma,  Hubert,"  said  his  sister  fretfully,  "that 
you  would  take  care  of  Nana,  and  me,  and  baby." 

"  Yes  ;   but  I  did  not  promise  to  go  to  bed  before  dark  !  " 

The  boy  was  evidently  chafed  by  too  much  petticoat  government. 
Tommy  pitied  him,  and  Mr.  Horner  was  not  surprised  at  his  impa- 
tience. 

"  I'll  tell  you  what  you  shall  do,"  said  Miss  Lejeune.  "  Fanny,  — 
is  not   your  name  Fanny .-' "  she  paused  to  ask. 

The  little  girl  nodded  assent. 

"  Run  and  tell  Nana  that  we  have  invited  you  both  to  spend  the 
evening  with  us.  You  can  say  that  Mr.  Horner  is  an  American  gen- 
tleman travelling  through  Spain  ;  —  she  will  be  sure  to  let  you  come. 
Then  she  can  put  the  baby  to  bed,  and  rest  herself  I  do  not  know 
what    we    shall    do,    but    there   is   plenty   to    see   from   our   windows. 


80  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

Hubert's  brow  cleared.  He  put  on  a  manly  air  and  bowed  very 
politely,  thanking  them  all  for  their  kindness,  and  told  Fanny  to 
take  the  message. 

"My  father,  Colonel  Vaughan,  will  thank  you  when  he  comes,"  he 
added, 

Bessie  went  with  her  to  show  her  afterwards  the  way  to  their 
room,  to  which  they  all  adjourned.  A  box  of  sugar  plums  which 
Tommy  had  bought  in  the  morning,  served  to  promote  ease  and 
hilarity.  The  children  were  soon  talking  together  freely  in  the 
balcony,  and  Miss  Lejeune  and  Mr.  Horner  settled  themselves  at  the 
round  table  to   write. 

"  I  wonder  who  they  are,"  said  Miss  Lejeune  in  a  low  voice 
when  she  was  quite  sure  the  children  would  not  overhear  her.  "  It 
seems   strange   that    they  should   be   alone  with   the   nurse." 

"  The  father  is  very  likely  stationed  at  Gibraltar,"  said  Mr.  Horner. 
"  Hubert  called  him  Colonel  Vaughan,  you  know.  It  seems  rather 
a  loose  way  to  look  after  his  children  to  send  them  across  Spain 
with    nobody  but  a    French  woman   to    look   after   them." 

"There  must  be  some  special  reason  for  it,"  said  Miss  Lejeune. 
"  I  wonder  they  did    not    take   a   steamer   round    to    Gibraltar." 

"We  shall  learn  more  about  it,  I  dare  say,"  said  Mr.  Horner; 
"meanwhile  I  am  glad  we  can  amuse  them  for  this  one  evening. 
I  am  sorry  we  must  leave  them  to-morrow.  By  the  way,  Augusta," 
—  and  here  Mr.  Horner  interrupted  himself  to  look  for  the  guide- 
books and  time-tables, —  "I    have  an  idea!" 

"What   is   it.'"    asked   Miss   Augusta  with   a   smile. 

"  It  is  that  we  should  go  to  Toledo  now,  instead  of  waiting  till 
we  come  back  from  Granada.  The  season  is  so  backward  that  I  have 
no   fear  of  the   heat   at    the   South,   have  you.?" 

"  Not  the  least,  "  she  replied.  "  It  is  a  very  good  plan,  for  we 
shall  then  have  Toledo  off  our  minds  when  we  come  back.  What 
gave  you   this    good   idea .?  " 

"It  was  thinking  of  the  Goths,  you  see,"  said  Mr.  Horner, 
laughing,  "when  it  occurred  to  me  that  it  would  be  better  to  study 
their   great   capital    before   going   down   among   the   Moors." 


AN  INCIDENT. 


81 


"  Well,  well  !  you 
Miss  Lejeune.  "  For 
week  that  he  had 
of  the  map  of  Spain, 
knows  the  difference 
Moors!  Evident  ly- 
ing  up ! "  she  added 

"  Not  only  have  I 
returned,  "but  I  have 
one  of  the  gentle- 
He  says  that  Toledo 
ful,  and  that  we 
eral  days  to  it,  and 
given  me  the  ad- 
pensioii     to      go      to 

"Very  well,"  said 
how   about   trains  ?  " 

"  That  is  what  we 

They  busied  them- 
and  after  half  an  hour 
arranged  a  plan. 


are  improvmg,"  cried 
a  man  who  said  last 
even  no  knowledge 
to  now  show  that  he 
between  Goths  and 
you  have  been  read- 
with  a  smile, 
been  reading  up,"  he 
been  talking  with 
men  at  the  bank, 
is  perfectly  wonder- 
ought  to  devote  sev- 
moreover,  he  has 
dress  of  a  sort  of 
instead  of  the  hotel." 
Miss  Lejeune,  "  and 
she  continued, 
must  now  look  up." 
selves  on  the  subject, 
of  careful  study,  had 


^^^^ 


■^■i^^ 


ZOCODOVER    IN   TOLEDO. 


82  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THEOUGH  SPAIN. 

"Children,"  said  Miss  Augusta,  advancing  to  the  window  where 
the  new  acquaintances  were  "getting  on  splendidly/'  as  they  would 
have  expressed    it,  "we   are  going  to  Toledo  to-morrow." 

"Toledo!"  cried  Bessie,  "I   thought"  — 

"  We  have   changed  the  plan,"  said  her  father. 

"Oh!"  she  exclaimed;  "then  I  must  go  at  once  and  read  about 
the  Goths  ! "  and  she  jumped  into  the  room. 

"  I  wish  wc  could  go  to  Toledo,"  said  Hubert  mournfully,  revert- 
ing to  his  lonely  position  which  these  new  companions  had  made 
him  for  a  while  forget, 

"  What  are  your  plans .'' "  asked  Mr.  Horner  kindly ;  "  perhaps  I 
can  advise  you." 

"  We  are  just  waiting  here,  sir,"  he  replied,  "  for  a  letter,  or 
some  message  from  papa,  telling  us  how  to  go  on.  I  dare  say  he 
has  sent  it,  but  Spanish  mails  are  so  slow."  Then,  as  if  he  thought 
Mr.  Horner  might  be  wondering  why  they  were  stranded  at  Madrid 
in  this  manner,  he  added,  while  the  color  came  into  his  cheeks, 
"  We  are  going  to  papa,  because  my  mother  was  too  ill  to  keep  us 
with  her,  and  she  thought, —  she  thought  I  was  old  enough  to  bring 
them  as  far  as  here.  But  it  is  too  hard, —  it  is  too  hard  to  have 
to  wait ; "  and  after  a  struggle,  he  broke  down,  and  burst  into 
sobs,  with  his  head  on  his  arm,  leaning  upon  the  balcony  railing 
in  the  dark. 

"It  is  hard  for  you,  my  dear  boy,"  said  Mr.  Horner,  putting 
his  arm  kindly  round  his  shoulder,  "  and  I  am  glad  we  met  you, 
because  I  am  sure  we  can  help  you.  We  will  see  to-morrow  about 
telegraphing  to  your  father,  if  no  letter  comes." 


THE  VAUGHANS.  83 


CHAPTER   X. 


THE     VAUGHANS. 


NEXT  morning  Miss  Lejeune  had  a  little  talk  with  Nana,  the 
French  nurse  of  the  Vaughan  children,  who  proved  to  be  an 
intelligent  and  faithful  woman,  fit  to  be  entrusted  with  the  sole 
charge  of  them,  on  ordinary  occasions.  She  was  doing  her  best, 
but  the  unexpected  failure  to  meet  Colonel  Vaughan  made  her  task 
more  difficult  than  had  been  intended.  She  was  very  grateful  for 
the  interest  which  Miss  Lejeune  readily  showed,  and  thankful  for 
advice  as  to  her  course. 

"  You  see,  madam,"  she  said,  "  the  children  were  to  have  stayed 
with  their  mother  during  the  summer,  but  madam  became  so  very 
ill  the  doctor  said  they  must  be  taken  from  her.  Her  disease  is 
of  the  nerves.  Poor  lady !  she  is  very  delicate.  We  wrote  to 
Gibraltar,  and  had  one  letter  from  the  father,  and  were  told  to 
come  here.  It  was  not  so  very  difficult  by  the  train.  We  left  my 
lady  at  Pau." 

"  And  you  have  no  letter  since } "  asked  Miss  Lejeune. 

"  No  letter,"  replied  the  nurse.  "  Mr.  Hubert  goes  daily  to  the 
banker's,  but  there  is  nothing,  and  he  is  growing  very  impatient." 

Meanwhile  Mr.  Horner  took  both  the  boys  out  with  him,  and  as 
soon  as  it  was  late  enough  for  the  bank  to  be  open,  they  went 
there  ;  it  was  the  same  place  for  their  own  letters  and  for  Hubert's. 

"This  is  the  third  time  I  have  been  here,  and  always  the  same 
answer,  '  Nothing  for  you,  sir,' "  said  Hubert,  as  they  climbed  the 
stairs  ;   '"  but  you  will  bring  me  luck,  I  hope,"  he  added,  smiling. 

Mr.  Horner  liked  the  boy.  His  smile  was  bright,  and  the  look 
which   came  from   his   eyes   frank   and   direct.     He  was  slightly  built. 


84  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  TIIKOUGH  SPAIN. 

and  decidedly  smaller  than  Tommy,  who  was  now  a  stout,  strong 
lad,  promising  soon  to  be  as  tall  as  his  brother  Philip. 

They  went  into  the  banking  office,  and  two  or  three  clerks  looked 
up  at  their  entrance,  one  of  whom  rose  to  meet  Mr.  Horner  with 
a  bow. 

"  Mr.  Agrazis  has  not  come  in,  sir ;  can  we  do  anything  for 
you  ? 

"  Yes ; "  replied  Mr.  Horner.  "  I  hardly  expect  any  letters  myself 
to-day,  but  I  hope  you  will  find  one  for  this  young  gentleman." 

The  clerk  turned  to  another,  who  seemed  to  have  the  charge  of 
customers'    letters,  and  they  exchanged  several  words  in  Spanish. 

"I  know  perfectly  well,"  said  Hubert  to  Tommy,  "that  they  are 
saying  to  each  other.  '  There  is  that  everlasting  boy  bothering  us 
about   his    letters.'     They  are   just  determined   I   shall   not  have  any." 

"  No,  sir  ;  nothing  at  all,"  said  the  clerk,  running  through  a 
bunch  of  decrepit  old  letters  which  looked  as  if  they  had  been 
in  stock  since  the  flood.  He  took  them  out  of  a  pigeon-hole  in  a 
set  like  that  in  a  country  post-office,  marked  with  the  letters  of  the 
alphabet. 

"Pardon  me,"  said  Mr.  Horner,  "may  I  look  for  myself.'*"  He 
took  the  bunch,  then  said,  "  This  is  not  the  right  bundle  ;  Vaughan 
begins  with  V." 

"  Faun,    Faun,"   repeated   the    Spanish    clerk  ;    "  ah,    no  ?  " 

They  all  looked  for  themselves  into  pigeon-hole  V.,  and  there  the 
solitary  letter  was  lying,  a  blue  envelope  directed  in  a  clear,  bold 
hand,    to 

Master    Hubert  Vaughan 
Care  of  Messrs.  Agrazis  and  Brown 

Banqueros,  Madrid 

Hubert  pounced  on  it,  too  glad  to  find  it  to  resent  the  mistake, 
but  Mr.  Horner  could  not  help  mildly  asking  the  clerk  how  long  it 
had  probably   been    there. 

"Oh!   last  night,  last  night  only.     Very  positive,"    he  replied;   and 


::AMA    .MARIA    LA    LIAXC-V 


>        ->     ,^J 


c  ct      *   c 


*  THE  VAUGHANS.  87 

Mr.  Horner  would  not  press  the  matter.  Hubert  was  tearing  open 
the  letter,  and  soon  had  mastered  its  contents.  It  was  dated  at  the 
very  earliest  moment  that  Colonel  Vaughan  had  news  of  the  plan  of 
sending  the  children  to  him  by  the  way  of  Madrid.  It  had  probably 
been  lying  in  the  pigeon-hole  at  the  bank  as  long  as  the  Vaughans 
had  been  waiting  for  it ;  but  this  did  not  much  signify,  as  the 
contents   proved.     It  was   brief,   and   ran   thus  : 

Dear  Hubert  : 

You  will  find  this  on  your  arrival  at  Madrid.  I  am  very  sorry  that  you  are 
obliged  to  come,  but  will  do  my  best  to  meet  you,  or  send  some  one,  before  the 
end  of  the  month.  You  will  stay,  of  course,  at  the  Hotel  de  la  Paix,  where  I  am 
perfectly  well  known.     Be  a  good  boy  and  mind  Nana. 

Your  Affectionate  Father, 

James  Vaughan. 

Mr.  Horner  and  Tommy  stood  waiting  while  Hubert  read  his 
letter,  which  to  be  sure  did  not  take  long.  Mr.  Horner  saw  at  a 
glance  that  he  was  disappointed  and  hurt.  He  hesitated,  began  to 
put  the  letter  in  his  pocket,  squeezing  his  lips  tightly  together; 
then  changing  his  mind,  handed  it  up  to  Mr.  Horner,  with  a 
helpless  movement,  as  if  he  surrendered  himself,  in  that  movement, 
to   the   guardianship   of  his   new   friend. 

"The  end  of  the  month  I  "  he  said  in  a  low  voice,  as  if  he 
meant  the  end    of  the  world.     It  was  now   only  the  sixteenth. 

Tommy  took  the  liberty  of  looking  over  his  father's  shoulder. 
He  thought  it  was  an  unkind  letter ;  and,  to  tell  the  truth,  Mr. 
Horner  formed  no  glowing  impression  of  Colonel  Vaughan  from 
reading  it  ;  but  it  was  too  early  to  judge  his  character.  He  handed 
it  back,    saying   briefly : 

"  Come  along,  boys ;  we  will  go  and  see  what  Nana  says.  Good 
morning,  gentlemen.  Tommy,  your  umbrella  I "  And  they  all  went 
down  into  St.  Geronimo  street,  through  which  they  must  pass  to 
their  hotel.  The  street  looked  changed,  to  them,  though  it  was  as 
lively  as  ever,  thronged  with  well-dressed  men,  women  with  mantillas, 
dogs,   donkey-carts,    carriages,   hand-organs  ;    the   shop   windows    were 


88 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


as  gay,  and  the  gaudy  fan  which  Bessie  longed  for  was  flaunting 
just  as  brightly  as  when  they  had  stopped  to  look  at  it  the  day 
before,  but  Madrid   had   become   hateful  to    Hubert,  and    Tommy  was 


very    angry    with    the    unknown 


EMPTY  WINE  JARS. 


father     of     his     new     friend,     who 
could  write  such  a  letter  as  that, 

"The  end  of  the  month,"  re- 
peated Mr.  Horner ;  then  he  asked 
abruptly,  "  Hubert,  should  you  like 
to  go  with  us  to  Toledo  ? "" 

"  To  Toledo !  Could  you  take 
me?     O,  Mr.   Horner!" 

"  Papa  !  "  exclaimed  Tommy,  "  oh, 
do  let  him  go  !  " 

"  Let  us  see  what  Nana  thinks," 

said    Mr.  Horner,   whereat    the  two 

boys     started     for     the     hotel      on 

the    full    run     across    the    crowded 

plaza,  finding  their  way  with   great 

skill     between     the     legs     of     the 

horses.     Just  at  the  door,  they  all  came  luckily  upon  Miss  Lejeune  and 

Bessie,  who  were  setting  forth  by  themselves  for  a  little  stroll. 

"  Where  is  Nana  ?     Do  you  know  ?  " 

"  She  is  up  there  at  the  balcony  of  the  salon,"  said  Bessie, 
pointing  with  her  parasol.  "  She  wanted  Fanny  to  stay  and  help 
take  care  of  the  baby." 

The  matter  was  arranged  sooner  and  more  simply  than  Mr. 
Horner  had  expected  ;  for  it  seemed  that  the  head  waiter  of  the 
Hotel  de  la  Paix  was  the  husband  of  Nana's  sister,  so  that  Nana 
was  perfectly  at  home  in  the  hotel,  where  she  had  once  or  twice 
before  accompanied  her  mistress,  Mrs.  Vaughan.     . 

She  thought  it  perfectly  proper  for  Mr.  Horner  to  take  Hubert 
and  Fanny,  who  was  of  course  included  in  the  scheme,  to  Toledo 
for  a  few  days,  while  she  stayed  in  the  hotel  at  Madrid  looking 
after  the  baby.  When  she  heard  of  the  letter  from  Colonel 
Vaughan,    she   shook   her   head  and    said : 


THE  VAUGHANS.  91 

"  I  thought  as  much.  Very  likely  it  will  be  the  end  of  another 
month.  He  is  in  no  hurry,  madam,"  she  added,  turning  to  Miss 
Lejeune  with  a  knowing  nod,  but  a  smile  of  sadness,  "  to  take 
charge   of   the  children." 

But  the  children  did  not  hear  this.  They  had  scampered  off  to 
get   ready   for  Toledo.     Mr.    Horner   called   after   them : 

"  Put   up   things   enough  for   three   days,    Hubert !  " 

''Moil  Dieu!  mon  Dieu  T'  cried  Nana,  catching  up  the  baby  and 
running  after  them ;  "  with  all  the  Huge  at  the  blauchis sense,  shall 
there   be  even   a    moucJioir  between    them  ! " 

As  the  blaiichisseusc  was  the  very  sister  who  had  married  the 
head  waiter,    this   matter   was   arranged   without   delay. 

"  Well !  "  said  Miss  Lejeune  to  Mr.  Horner,  when  they  were  left 
alone   in  the  little  balcony. 

"Well!"  returned  Mr.  Horner,  "this  is  a  pretty  high-handed 
proceeding  ! " 

"  How  exactly  like  you,"  said  Miss  Lejeune,  "  to  take  these  wandering 
children   wholly  upon    trust,    and    carry    them   off  with    you ! " 

"As  for  that,  I  am  not  afraid  the  children  will  pick  our  pockets, 
or  put  poison  in  the  soup  ;  but  if  the  stern  parent  should  change 
his   mind   and    come   after   them "  — 

"  And  find  the  birds  flown,"  said  Miss  Lejeune,  continuing  his 
thought,  "it  might  be  a  little  awkward.  But  Nana  would  be  equal 
to   the   occasion.     Besides,    he   will  not   come.     What   a   letter ! " 

"I  am  most  anxious  about  Nana;  what  if  she  neglects  the  baby 
in   our   absence.^"     said    Mr.    Horner. 

"  My  dear,  we  are  not  responsible  for  that  baby.  Suppose  we 
had   never   met   them,  it   would    be  just   the    same. " 

"In  taking  the  children,  we  assume  the  burden  of  the  whole 
family,  I  believe,"  said  Mr.  Horner,  shaking  his  head.  While  they 
were  talking,  they  had  returned  to  their  apartment.  Mr.  Horner 
was  walking  up  and  down  the  room,  with  his  hands  in  his  pockets. 
He    went   on   to   say : 

"  It  is  a  risk,  but  I  think  it  will  turn  out  well.  I  shall  set 
Hubert   to  writing  to  his  father  at  once,   before  we   leave  for  Toledo, 


92 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


and  I  shall  add  a  postscript,  to  make  it  all  right  with  Colonel 
Vaughan.  So  now,  we  must  make  all  ready  for  the  start  this  after- 
noon.     Have    you   much    to    do  ? " 

"No,"  replied  Miss  Lejuene ;  "as  we  only  take  the  little  things, 
and  leave  the  trunks  here.  But  you  had  better  send  Bessie  to  me 
if  you   see    her." 

He  left  the  room.  When  Miss  Lejeune  was  alone,  she  exclaimed 
aloud,  "Was  there  ever"  —  finishing  her  thought  inwardly  thus: 
"a  man  so  enlarged  and  improved  as  Philip  Horner,  by  marriage 
and  the  intercourse  with  intelligent  women!  Twenty  years  ago,  he 
would  not  have  taken  so  much  trouble  for  his  own  relations,  and 
here  he  is  going  out  of  his  way  to  give  pleasure  to  some  little 
stray   children.     And   he  born   in    Boston  ! " 


CALLE  ISABEL,  16. 


93 


CHAPTER   XI. 


T 


*»'■*■■ 


BRIDGE  OF  ALCANTARA. 


CALLE     ISABEL,     l6. 

^HUS  Nana  was  left  with  the  baby,  and 
the  young  Vaughans,  amazed  and  delighted, 
joined  the  Horners  for  Toledo.  Little  Fanny 
was  shy,  and  wanted  at  first  to  be  left  with 
Nana.  Less  notice  had  been  taken  of  her  than 
of  her  brother,  and  she  had  not  the  same 
adaptability  that  he  possessed  ;  still  it  seemed  a 
pity  to  leave  her  behind,  and  though  Bessie  did  not  care  much 
about  the  child  yet,  she  exerted  herself  to  urge  her  going. 

They  reached  Toledo  after  dark,  and  found  at  the  station  an 
omnibus  with  mules,  like  the  one  at  Burgos,  only  this  time  the 
drive  to  the  town  was  longer,  and  the  mules  were  even  more  ani- 
mated. There  were  eight  of  them,  and  they  whirled  along  at  a  mad 
pace,  the  driver  cracking  his  whip,  and  the  postilion  running  at 
the  side,  or  jumping  up  on  the  front  animal,  who  was  a  horse,  by 
the  way,  and  not  a  mule. 

Toledo  is  built  on  a  high  rock,  almost  perpendicular  on  all  sides 
but  one.  It  is  seen  from  a  great  distance  above  the  plain,  with 
sombre  stone  buildings  rising  in  terraces  one  above  the  other.  The 
Tagus  winds  its  way  beneath  the  walls  in  a  sort  of  horseshoe, 
through  a  deep  bed  with  steep,  canon-like  sides.  They  crossed  it 
by  the  bridge  of  Alcantara  —  or  Al  Kantarah,  which  means  a  bridge 
in  Arabic  —  passing  under  arches  and  through  towers  at  either  end, 
and  then  they  began  slowly  winding  up  through  the  town.  It  had 
been  light  enough  to  see  the  river  and  the  bridge,  but  darkness  came 
on  soon,  and  they  could  not  tell  where  they  were.  The  streets 
were    so    narrow    that    they   were    close    to    the   windows   of    shops 


94 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


which  seemed  brilliant  in  the  dimly-lighted  streets,  and  could  see 
all  sorts  of  Spanish  things,  tinsel  church  ornaments,  bright  silk  or 
cotton  handkerchiefs,  and  brass  work.  The  omnibus  was  feebly- 
lighted  by  a  dim  oil  lamp,  but  Bessie  managed  to  make  out  that 
the  only  person  besides  themselves  in  it,  who  sat  in  the  corner  by 
the  door,  was  a  matador  in  his  bull-fight  dress.  He  had  his  little 
spadas,  or  swords,  with  him,  under  the  seat. 

"  This   is  the   best   fun    of  anything  yet  in   Spain ! "  cried   Tommy 


DONKEYS   CARRYING    WATER    JAR.S. 


joyously,  between  the  bumps  of  the  swaying  vehicle,  and  Hubert, 
who  had  come  direct  from  Bayonne  to  Madrid  in  the  train  without 
stopping,  fully  agreed  with  him. 

They  stopped   before   a    large  wooden   door,  which   reminded    them 


CALLE  ISABEL,  16. 


95 


of  an  Eastern  Bab,  or  gate.  An  unseen  cord  pulled  it  open,  and 
it  swung  inward,  showing  by  the  light  of  a  candle,  in  a  small  niche 
in   a  thick  wall,  a   broad  flight  of   stairs,  built,  as    far   as    they  could 


'j^^-      ^^^1.. 


h'/'ii  ///l'',^'J<    ^',//'       jj'l/'WJ'JII 


LOOKING  BACK  ACROSS  THE  BRIDGE. 


make  out,  on  one  side  of  an  open  court,  or  patio.  They  groped 
their  way  up  two  sets  of  stairs,  and  there  were  met  by  two  elderly 
Spanish  senoras  with  hospitable  manners,  like  any  two  ladies  await- 
ing to  receive  their  guests.  The  Horners  had  been  prepared  for 
this,  and  had  got  together  their  best  Spanish  ;  and  it  now  came 
out,  what  they  had  not  before  thought  of,  that  Hubert,  who  had 
spent  most  of  his  life  in  Gibraltar,  could  manage  the  language 
pretty  well. 


96  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

These  sweet  ladies  made  them  welcome,  and  led  them  by  a  cor- 
ridor running  round  the  patio,  to  a  huge  room,  with  small  windows, 
heavy  beams  running  across  the  ceiling,  and  in  one  corner  an 
ancient,  closed-up  door  of  green  corroded  iron,  through  which  Bessie 
fancied  that  Roderick  the  Goth  might  step  into  the  room  at  any 
moment.  There  were  two  little  iron  beds  against  the  wall,  and 
there  was  room  in  the  great  chamber  for  half  a  dozen  more.  The 
two  girls,  with  Miss  Lejeune,  were  put  in  possession,  while  the 
sefioras  carried  of  the  others.  Philip  and  his  father  were  given  a 
room  whose  one  window  opened  upon  the  corridor,  and  Hubert's 
room  was  a  little  dark  place  leading  from  this  up  three  steps,  with 
a  big  flowered  chintz  curtain  for  a  door  or  portiere. 

While  one  senora  bustled  about  making  them  comfortable,  the 
other  disappeared  to  superintend  their  supper.  The  ladies  were  soon 
restored  by  fresh  water,  which  was  brought  in  hospitable  profusion, 
and  while  Miss  Lejeune  rested  on  the  bed,  the  girls  leaned  upon 
the  window  and  looked  down  into  the  patio.  It  was  a  square  win- 
dow, with  folding  sashes,  and  heavy  shutters,  all  painted  a  faded 
green.  Below,  through  the  darkness,  they  could  make  out  a  paved 
square  court  with  oleander- trees  in  green  boxes,  and  in  mysterious 
corners  stood  huge  jars  which  might  have  contained  a  forty-thief 
apiece.  A  bell  rang  which  they  recognized  by  the  sound,  as  the 
door-bell  their  driver  had  rung  when  they  came  ;  and  then  a  won- 
derful thing  happened.  The  senora,  who  had  been  bringing  them 
water  and  towels,  appeared  at  a  window  of  the  corridor,  just  oppo- 
site the  one  where  the  children  were  standing,  and  pulled  at  a 
cord.  They  could  not  see  round  the  corner  down  below,  but  they 
knew  that  she  must  have  opened  the  front  door  by  this  process, 
from  the  conversation  which  ensued  in  Spanish.  Of  course  they 
could  not  understand  it,  but  they  guessed,  and  probably  were 
nearly  right,  that  it  was  something  like  this  : 

The  senora  said,  "Well!    who's  there.?" 

"It  is  Pepe,  senora.     The  butterman  has  no  butter." 

"  What !     Then  you  must  run  to  the  milkman." 

"  I  have  done  so,  and  he  has  none." 


^. 


^■''v. 


Jl>- 


"^^  ,f^ 


■m 


VI 


'■■  v7 


rUERTA   DEL   SOL,   TOLEDO 


'      •>      J       ^       33     J 


CALLE  ISABEL,  16.  99 

"Fetch  me,  then,  some  fresh  oil,  for  we  have  but  little;  but  be 
quick,   for   the   strangers   are   already  impatient   for   their   supper." 

The  invisible  messenger  said  no  more.  As  the  senora  loosened 
the  rope,  the  great  door  swung  to  with  a  bang. 

Soon  the  bell  rang  again,  and  the  same  process  took  place. 
This  time  there  was  a  scuffling  below,  and  the  shadowy  form  of 
Pepe  was  to  be  seen  hurrying  up  the  stairs  which  led  from  the 
patio  below,  in  full  view  of  the  children's  post  of  observation. 

Over  their  heads  the  stars  were  shining  brightly  against  the 
clear  evening  sky ;  pointed  dormer  windows  in  the  tiled  roof  which 
went  around  the  four  sides  of  the  patio,  stood  out  sharply;  every 
now  and  then  a  little  bird,  which  speaks  often  at  night  in  Spain, 
made  its  plaintive  note  close  at  hand.  It  was  wonderfully  still 
and  strange. 

Still  they  were  not  sorry  to  be  summoned  to  supper,  which  was 
served  to  them  alone,  at  a  round  table  lighted  by  a  swinging  lamp. 
The  kind  ladies  waited  on  them,  and  watched  to  see  if  they  liked  the 
good  chicken  and  fried  eggs  which  they  provided.  The  Homers 
praised  everything,  to  the  graceful  brown  jug  that  held  the  water. 
Little  Fanny,  too  tired  and  sleepy  to  eat  much,  was  an  object  of 
great  interest  to  the  hostesses,  and  one  of  them  offered  to  put  her 
to  bed  before  the  rest  had  finished  their  apricots  ;  but  Miss 
Lejeune    would   not   allow   this. 

She  was  afraid  Fanny  might  be  frightened  in  the  great  room  with 
the  green  iron  door;  but  she  was  a  passive  little  traveller,  and  in 
fact  fell    asleep   as   soon   as   her   head    was   on   the   pillow. 

"  I  hope  Roderick  the  Goth  will  not  come  in  and  terrify  her," 
said  Miss  Lejeune,  as  she  resumed  her  seat  at  the  table,  and 
began  to  sip  the  black  coffee,  which,  late  as  it  was,  she  had  not 
feared   to    accept. 

"  Who  is  Roderick  the  Goth  ? "  demanded  Hubert  ;  "  you  keep 
referring  to   him." 

"  He  was  the  last  of  the  Goths,  so  called,"  said  Miss  Lejeune, 
"but  we  use  his  name  because  he  was  a  famous  one,  and  we  have 
the   Goths   upon  our    minds,    because    during    their    rule    in    Spain, 


100  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

Toledo  was  their  chief  place  ;  and  while  we  are  here,  we  expect  to 
see  the   traces  of  their   buildings    and    ways    of  doing   things." 

"  I  do  not  know  anything  about  history,"  said  Hubert  with  a 
tone  partly  scornful  and  partly  meek,  if  such  a  combination  can  be 
possible. 

"  Well,  you  see,  yoii  are  in  Spain  because  you  have  to  be, " 
said  Tommy  ;  "  but  as  we  are  here  for  fun,  we  want  to  get  all  the 
fun   we   can   out    of  a    country,   by   knowing  all    we   can     about   it." 

"  Bravo,  Tommy !  "  exclaimed  his  father  ;  "  these  are  the  true 
Horner   sentiments." 

"  Well,  then,  you  will  have  to  tell  me  all  you  know,"  said 
Hubert,    "  for    I    am    rather   late  to    begin." 

"Now,  I  will  tell  you  very  briefly,"  said  Bessie,  "the  way  I 
used  to  tell  Phil,  if  you  will  only  listen." 

"  I  think,  Bessie,  your  general  glimpse  of  the  Goths  had  better 
be  postponed,"  said  Mr.  Horner,  "for  it  is  long  after  ten  o'clock, 
and  we  ought  all  to  go  to  bed." 

"  All  right,"  said  Hubert,  who  was  struggling  with  a  great  yawn, 
"but  I  will  listen  to-morrow,  Bessie." 

The  early  chroniclers  of  Toledo  say  that  the  city  was  founded  at 
least  as  far  back  as  the  creation  of  the  world ;  without  trying  to 
verify  their  theories,  it  is  quite  probable  that  the  Romans  found 
something  there  when  they  established  themselves  as  early  as  the 
beginning  of  the  third  century,  a.  d.  At  all  events,  it  was  to  the 
Romans  an  important  centre.  The  first  council  of  the  Church  of 
Spain  was  held  at  Toledo,  400  a.  d.  Some  time  later,  upon  the 
irruption  of  the  barbarians  of  the  North,  which  swept  all  over  the 
peninsula,  it  became  the  capital  of  Gothic  Spain,  and  was  very 
prosperous  and  important.  In  Wamba's  reign,  the  glory  of  Toledo 
reached  its  climax ;  but  from  that  time  the  Gothic  name  began  to 
decline  through  its  own  corruption  and  internal  quarrels,  all  of 
which  were  preparing  for  the  downfall  of  the  monarchy.  Secret 
intelligence  was  given  to  the  Moors  over  in  Africa,  that  there  was 
a  chance  for  successful  invasion,  and  they  landed  at  Gibraltar  in 
great  numbers. 


CALLE  ISABEL,  16. 


>       1     1  1    ^      t      t 


•  •        • 

•  •   •      •        • 


101 


Roderick,  with  all  his  Goths,  came  out  to  meet  them,  and  a  great 
battle  was  fought,  not  far  from  Cadiz,  on  the  banks  of  the  Guade- 
lete.  Roderick  advanced  towards  the  enemy,  dressed  in  gold  and 
purple,  standing  in  his  ivory  chariot,  with  a  wonderful  headdress, 
and  two  mules  splendidly  accoutred.  These  signs  of  royalty  made 
him  an  easy  mark,  and  he  was  cut  down  by  the  weapon  of  the 
Turk.  The  head  of  the  king  was  cut  off  and  forwarded  to  the 
court  of  Damascus.  Thus  fell  the  monarchy  of  the  Goths,  and  thus 
began  the  domination  of  the  Moor,  whose  rule  in  Spain  lasted 
eight  hundred  years.-  They,  too,  at  first,  made  Toledo  their  chief 
place  until  Cordova  became  their  court  and  capital. 


fNTHE, 


'M 


A  FAMJI^y  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

TOLEDO. 

DURING  all  ♦the  centuries,  the  great  races  who  have  appeared 
in  Spain,  lived  their  life,  and  vanished,  have  had  some  foot- 
hold in  Toledo.  They  have  all  left  their  traces  there,  which  are 
yet  to  be  seen,  although  the  city  has  now  become  a  place  of  little 
importance  other  than  its  many  monuments  of  the  past.  Old 
Roman  archways,  the  traces  of  the  palace  of  the  Gothic  kings, 
beautiful  specimens  of  Moorish  mosques  and  of  Jewish  synagogues, 
are  still  visible  ;  for  when  Toledo  was  first  taken  by  the  Moors  it 
was  filled  with  Hebrews,  who  helped  the  Moors  because  they  had 
been  persecuted  by  their  previous  rulers,  the  Goths.  The  Cathedral, 
and  the  Church  of  San  Juan  de  los  Reyes,  are  monuments  of  the 
Spanish  Christians,  and  the  present  century  is  represented  by  the 
destruction  wrought  by  French  soldiers  in   1810. 

The  streets  are  irregular,  ill-paved,  and  steep  and  winding ;  but 
this  intricacy  was  intentional,  for  it  made  them  easy  to  defend  when 
attacked,  and  kept  them  cool  in  summer.  The  houses  are  for  the 
most  part  Moorish,  built  about  patios,  or  courts,  over  which  awnings 
are  drawn  in  summer. 

In  the  heart  of  the  city  towers  the  Cathedral,  around  which  cluster 
many  churches  and  convents,  now  silent  and  deserted.  The  silence 
of  the  place  strikes  the  ear  at  once,  where  no  carriages,  and  but  sel- 
dom a  footfall,  disturb  the  echoes  of  the  narrow  streets. 

The  Homers  passed  three  delightful  days  there,  going  back  to 
Madrid  on  the  evening  of  the  third.  The  hospitable  sisters,  who  kept 
the  house,  would  fain  have  them  stay  a  month,  and  they  were  so 
enchanted  with  their  quarters,  nothing  would  have  pleased  them 
better. 


PROCESSION   OF   MONKS. 


•  *       V  )       ti 


}  ]  } 


1     J         >  J 


3      3       J        J 
3  5     ,   »   3 


H. 


■•li' 


1    c  c  c    c. 


TOLEDO.  106 

*' If  Mary  were  only  here!"  was  Miss  Lejeune's  exclamation; 
"  there  is  sketching  enough  for  weeks  !  " 

When  the  seiioras  learned  just  how  long  they  could  stay,  they 
planned  for  them  the  arrangement  of  their  time,  so  that  they  should 
see  as  many  as  possible  of  the  interesting  places,  and  without  doing 
too  much  at  a  time,  so  as  to  be  tired,  and  lose  the  impression. 

Their  first  excursion  was  to  walk  round  the  picturesque  old  city, 
going  down  to  the  Puerta  del  Sol,  not  like  that  of  Madrid,  changed 
to  mean  a  broad  square,  but  really  a  Moorish  gate  of  granite 
horseshoe  arches ;  and  thence  along  an  old  road  to  another  gate, 
where  there  are  outworks  built  by  Wamba  the  Goth,  the  new 
Puerta  visagra  being  the  work  of  Philip  the  Second,  Here,  there 
is  an  image  of  St.  Eugenio,  Bishop  of  Toledo,  who  came  from 
France.  Going  back  there  he  was  murdered  at  St.  Denis,  and  his 
body  remained  there  until  another  French  bishop  discovered  it  and 
brought  back  the  right  arm  to  Spain.  Philip  the  Second  obtained 
the  rest  from  Charles  the  Ninth,  and  thus  all  the  parts  of  the 
sacred  remains  were  reunited  at  Toledo,  after  a  thousand  years  of 
separation,  according  to  the  explanation  of  the  guide  who  went  with 
them  to  point  out  the  items  of  interest.  It  seemed  as  if  there 
was  something  to  see  at  every  step,  and  after  two  or  three  hours, 
their  heads  were  turning  with  the  difficulty  of  following  his  Spanish 
explanation.  Goths  and  Moors  were  growing  hopelessly  mixed  in 
their  minds.  The  cobblestone  pavements  tired  their  feet,  and  they 
were  hungry,  for  this  was  an  early  start  after  coffee  and  before 
almuerzo.  So  they  insisted  upon  going  back  to  the  Calle  St.  Isabel, 
No.  1 6,  to  the  dismay  of  the  worthy  man,  who  had  but  just  got 
going  on  his  tour  of  inspection.  They  promised  to  start  again  after 
a  rest,  in  the  afternoon,  and  came  back  after  admiring  the  remains 
of  the  Palace  Castle,  built  by  Wamba  in  674,  and  the  bridge  of 
San  Martin,  which  there  completes  the  picture.  This  bridge  is  quite 
at  the  opposite  curve  of  the  horseshoe  made  by  the  Tagus,  from  the 
one  over   which  they   had    entered    the    city. 

In  the  afternoon,  to  please  the  guide,  they  came  back  to  this 
point,  to  inspect  the   remains   of   the    Franciscan   convent,   called  San 


106  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

Juan  de  los  Reyes  —  of  the  Kings  —  because  it  was  dedicated  by 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella  to  their  particular  saint,  John,  being  erected 
by  them  in  1476,  to  commemorate  a  victory  over  the  king  of  Por- 
tuo-al.  The  detail  of  this  church  is  very  elaborate,  and  it  is  a 
specimen  of  the  richest  Gothic  of  the  Moorish  period,  although  the 
severest  critics  condemn  the  taste  of  the  ornaments,  such  as  the 
angels  with  coats  of  arms,  that  crowd  the  walls.  On  the  outside, 
in  one  part  of  the  wall,  still  hang  the  rusty  chains  with  which 
Christians  were  confined  by  the  Moors,  won  back  at  the  conquest 
of  Grenada.  It  is  said  that  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  intended  to  be 
buried  here,  but  they  changed  their  idea,  and  their  tombs  are  in  the 
Cathedral    at    Grenada. 

Bessie  and  Miss  Lejeune  liked  best  the  old  cloister  of  this 
church ;  though  it  is  falling  down  through  neglect  and  bad  usage, 
it  is  the  finest  portion  of  the  whole  work,  covered  with  rich 
sculptures  of  foliage,  and  animals  and  saints,  in  niches.  It  was 
much  damaged  by  French  soldiers  during  the  early  part  of  this 
century,  and  is  now  used  in  part  as  a  picture  gallery.  The 
pictures  are  sad  and  gloomy,  like  those  in  most  inferior  Spanish 
collections ;  and  there  are  no  specimens  of  the  best.  The  court- 
yard of  the  cloister  was  overgrown  with  tall  rose-trees,  oleander 
and  other  shrubs,  whose  long  neglected  sprays  twisted  about  the 
broken   carvings. 

During  their  absence,  the  good  landladies  had  been  engaged  in 
a  very  serious  work,  which  had  occupied  their  whole  day.  The 
Horners  found  them  busily  engaged  upon  it  when  they  came  in  to 
almuerzo,  but  by  dinner  time  all  traces  of  it  were  removed,  and 
the  thing  was  complete.  This  was  patching  and  mending  the  huge 
awning  of  the  patio,  large  enough  to  stretch  all  over  it,  across 
from  one  side  of  the  roof  to  another,  each  way.  Early  in  the 
morning  it  was  lowered  into  the  court,  and  there  spread  out  on 
the  flat  stone  pavement,  an  odd  sight,  for  the  original  brownish 
color  was  already  varied  by  patches  of  white,  where  it  had  been 
strengthened  from  time  to  time,  so  that  it  looked  like  an  immense 
patchwork    quilt    of    varied     shades    of    yellow,    white,    and    brown. 


THE   CATHEDRAL   OF   TOLEDO. 


-»  J  )      )      J 


'     )         J     > 


TOLEDO.  109 

When  Bessie  in  the  morning  saw  the  excellent  ladies  with  their 
maid  about  to  set  to  work,  she  had  a  great  longing  to  ttay 
at  home  and  help ;  but  reflecting  that  she  had  not  come  all 
the  way  to  Toledo  to  mend  patchwork,  she  gave  it  up.  In  the 
evening,  the  stones  of  the  patio  were  uncovered,  and  shining  with 
cleanliness.  The  great  pots  containing  the  oleanders  were  set  back 
in  the  middle,  but  the  water-jars  remained  mysterious  in  their 
corner.  Overhead,  the  yellow  awning,  drawn  back  for  air  and  light, 
bung  in  folds  close  on  one  side  of  the  building.  It  was  worked 
with  ropes  and  pulleys,  and  could  be  drawn  all  or  partly  across  the 
patio.  In  fact,  the  whole  establishment  was  worked  with  ropes 
like  a  sailing-vessel,  and  the  brave  sei1?ra  opened  the  Bab 
and  hailed  the  visitors  below,  like  a  captain  on  her  quarter 
deck. 

The  third  and  last  day  was  almost  wholly  devoted  to  the 
Cathedral,  the  real  glory  of  Toledo,  not  only  on  account  of  its 
religious  and  historical  associations,  but  from  its  intrinsic  beauty 
as  an  example  of  the  pure  ingenious  Gothic  of  the  thirteenth  cen- 
tury. 

The  Cathedral  is  said  to  have  occupied  its  present  site  before 
the  capture  of  the  city  by  the  Moors.  They  converted  it  into  a 
mosque,  and  in  course  of  time  enlarged  and  adorned  it  greatly. 
At  the  capitulation  of  Alonzo  the  Sixth,  in  1085,  it  was  agreed  that 
the  Moors  should  still  retain  it ;  but  this  agreement  was  respected 
for  a  few  months  only,  when  the  Christians  took  it  forcibly  from 
them  and  had  it  consecrated  as  their  Cathedral.  But  of  that 
old  building  nothing  remains.  The  iirst  stone  of  the  new  Cathe- 
dral was  laid  with  great  ceremony  by  King  Ferdinand  the  Third,  on 
the  fourteenth  of  August,  1227,  and  from  that  time  to  the  end  of 
the  seventeenth  century,  additions  and  alterations  have  been  con- 
stantly in  hand.  It  was  the  same  king  who  laid  the  first  stone 
at   Burgos   in    1221. 

The  plan  of  the  Cathedral  is  on  an  enormous  scale,  those  of 
Milan  and  Seville  being  the  only  larger  churches  in  Europe. 
There   is   no   good    general   view   to  be  had  of  it,  though  the  towers 


110  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

and  dome  are  very  beautiful.  The  first  glimpse  of  the  interior  is 
very  impressive  ;  rich  in  sculpture,  but  very  simple  in  its  lines. 
The  chapels  are  crowded  with  sculpture  and  ornament,  and  contain 
often,  like  those  at  Burgos,  the  tombs  of  important  persons.  One 
of  these,  the  chapel  of  Santiago,  has  in  the  centre  a  grand  high 
tomb,  with  life-size  kneeling  figures,  one  at  each  angle,  and  angels 
holding  coats  of  arms,  in  panels  on  the  sides.  On  the  tomb  repose 
the  effigies  of  the  Constable  Don  Alvaro  de  Luna  and  his  wife 
Doiia  Juana,  who  died  in  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century.  Don 
Alvaro  was  the  prime  minister  and  favorite  of  John  the  Second,  of 
Castile.  He  was  something  like  Cardinal  Wolsey,  and  like  him,  fell 
from  the  favor  of  his  sovereign. 

There  are  also  many  beautiful  inns  and  brass  screens  as  elsewhere 
throughout  the  Spanish  churches,  and  retablos,  or  large  pictures 
of  great  height,  rising  from  floor  to  roof,  filled  with  scenes  from 
the  life  of  the  Saviour,  richly  painted  and  gilded,  with  canopies 
and  niches  covered  with  gold.  The  effect  is  one  of  extreme  rich- 
ness and  quietness  combined.  The  large  windows  are  mostly  filled 
with  stained  glass,  giving  the  wonderful  charm  of  contrasted  lights 
and  shades,  added  to  that  of  the  colored  rays  falling  through  the 
windows.  The  walls,  which  originally  were  colored,  have  been 
sacrificed  throughout  to  the  unhappy  passion  for  whitewash,  which 
disfigures   everything   in    Spain. 

Now  the  Horners  had  to  bid  farewell  to  Toledo.  Few  cities 
can  compete  with  it  in  interest,  for  the  grandeur  of  its  position, 
and  the  endless  picturesqueness  of  every  corner.  It  gathers  up  in 
a  small  space  the  whole  strange  history  of  Spain  so  vividly,  that 
any  one  who  could  visit  its  old  nooks  and  corners  might  work  out 
for  himself  the  whole  of  it.  For  here  Romans,  Goths,  Saracens, 
and    Christians,    have   in    turn    held   sway,   and  left   their  mark. 

The  Horners  found  time  on  the  way  to  the  station  to  stop  at 
a  shop  where  the  beautiful  Toledo  work  is  made;  steel,  inlaid  with 
gold  and  copper  in  lovely  arabesque  designs.  They  bought  a  few 
"travel    presents"   in    the  way   of   daggers   mounted    as   shawl-pins. 


VISIGOTHS. 


HI 


CHAPTER   XIII. 


VISIGOTHS. 


SPAIN  is  first  known  in  history  about  the  sixth  century  before 
Christ,  as  then  inhabited  by  "Iberi"  and  Kelts.  It  is  more 
than  probable  that  both  of  these  races  followed  previous  ones,  the 
existence  of   which   are   traced   in   the   flint   stone   and   bronze  instru- 


MAP. 


ments  like  those  hidden  elsewhere  in  Europe ;  these  were  probably 
also  followed  by  races  who  built  the  dolmens  and  menhirs  which  are 
found   all    along    from   Algeria    to    the    Orkneys.      These    Iberi    and 


112  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

Kelts  scattered  themselves  over  the  peninsula,  constantly  shifting 
their  ground,  perhaps  on  account  of  petty  wars  among  themselves,  or 
for    now    unknown    reasons.      Both    races    have    left  clear    traces    on 

« 

the  maps  of  ancient  Spain. 

From  its  geographical  position,  the  peninsula  was  a  natural  halt- 
ing-place in  ancient  times  for  all  the  masters  of  the  Mediterranean 
as  they  pushed  westward.  Thus  there  came  successively  colonies  of 
Egyptians,  Phoenecians  and  Greeks  ;  and  there  Carthagenians  and 
Romans  met  to  dispute  the  supremacy  of  the  civilized  world.  The 
Romans  occupied  Spain  for  a  long  period,  during  which  it  became 
nearly  as  Latinized  as  Italy  ;  then  the  Roman  Empire  fell,  and 
successive  waves  of  barbarian  destroyers  swept  across  the  land, 
Sueves,  Vandals,  Visigoths,  wrecking  a  civilization  they  could  not 
understand.  The  last  of  these  races,  the  Visigoths,  strove  hard  to 
found  an  empire  from  450  to  710,  which,  upheld  by  the  real  power 
which  in  those  times  kept  society  together,  the  Church,  lasted, 
growing,  however,  weaker  and  weaker,  till  it  fell  before  the  attack 
of  the    Mohammedan    Arabs. 

These  Goths  retained  the  provinces,  with  their  local  capitals  left 
from  the  domitiion  of  the  Romans.  Their  kingdom,  in  its  greatest 
time,  extended  far  beyond  the  present  limits  of  Spain,  reaching  up 
into  France.  Seville  was  at  first  the  royal  residence  of  the  Goths, 
acknowledged  not  only  as  the  capital  of  the  whole  province,  but  as 
the  metropolis  of  the  kingdom.  This  honor,  however,  was  in  time 
transferred  to  Toledo. 

The  Spanish  Goths  were  by  no  means  the  wild,  uncivilized 
people  which  the  expression  "  Goths  and  Vandals "  conveys.  The 
old  Roman  organization  of  the  towns  was  preserved  by  tradition 
throughout  the  whole  of  the  Visigothic  times ,  and  the  charters,  or 
fueros,  granted  to  towns  and  cities  by  the  kings,  founded  on 
recollections  of  former  institutions,  are  even  now  in  force,  and  fully 
exacted. 

The  government  was,  in  appearance,  an  absolute  monarchy  ;  yet 
the  power  of  the  chief  was  greatly  controlled  by  the  influence  of 
the  prelates.     The  Pope  was   acknowledged   as   supreme   head   of  the 


VISIGOTHS. 


115 


Church,  but  the  independence  of  the  Spanish  bishops  was  great, 
and  they  managed  affairs  pretty  much  their  own  way,  in  things 
temporal  as  well  as  spiritual,  through  the  national  ecclesiastical 
councils. 

The     Arian     heresy,    differing    from    the     true      orthodox    of    the 


ALCAZAR   IN  TOLEDO. 


Church,    continued   about   one   hundred   years  in    Spain  ;    the  disputes 
arising    from    differences    of    faith,  made    much    trouble,    as     in    the 


following   case 


Ermenigild,  a  certain  royal  prince,  was  allowed  to  share  the 
royal  dignity  with  his  father,  after  his  marriage  with  the  princess 
Ingunda,    who    was    orthodox.      But    Gosnilda,    the    second    wife    of 


116  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

the  old  king,  and  therefore  stepmother  to  the  prince,  was  a 
professor  of  the  Arian  sect.  The  two  queens  could  not  agree;  the 
double  connection  between  stepmother  and  daughter-in-law  was  too 
much  for  them,  added  to  a  difference  in  religion ;  the  one  was 
resolved  that  her  step-daughter  should  embrace  the  religion  of  the 
Goths,  the  other  that  no  force  on  earth  should  induce  her  to  do 
so.  Gosnilda  had  violent  passions.  She  so  far  forgot,  it  is  said, 
all  sense  of  dignity,  as  to  punish  the  obstinacy  of  Ingunda  with 
blows.  She  seized  her  one  day,  says  St.  Gregory  of  Tours,  by 
the  hair  of  her  head,  threw  her  down,  and  trampled  on  her,  and 
afterwards  forcibly  thrust  her  into  the  water  to  be  baptized  by  an 
Arian  priest.  The  two  husbands  finding  that  their  palace  was 
scandalized,  agreed  to  have  separate  courts ;  while  the  elder 
remained   at   Toledo,    the  younger    established    his    at    Seville. 

Ermenigild  soon  abjured  Arianism,  converted  by  his  wife,  and 
embraced  the  Catholic  religion.  Warfare  followed  between  father 
and  son,  and  it  ended  in  an  order  for  the  execution  of  the  latter, 
who  had  already  been  thrown  into  prison  ;  "  the  ministers  of  venge- 
ance hastened  to  the  dungeon,  and  virith  a  hatchet,  cleft  the  head 
of   the    prince    of    the    Goths." 

This  was  one  of  the  tales  with  which  Bessie  regaled  Hubert  and 
Tommy,  true  to  her  agreement  of  throwing  light  on  Spanish  history 
at  not  too  great  a  cost  to  her  listeners.  She  had  her  own  method 
of  extracting  plums  from  books  of  information  about  the  places  or 
people  in  whom  she  was  interested.  She  had  no  strong  prejudice 
in  favor  of  facts,  and  loved  a  legend  better  than  a  statistical  state- 
ment. While  her  dates  and  statistics  were  fairly  reliable  for  accuracy, 
she  was  quite  as  likely  to  introduce  a  giant  or  a  ghost,  as  a  king 
and  warrior  into  her  narrative,  but  she  had  a  good  memory,  and 
she  gave  a  certain  air  of  genuineness  to  her  account  which  justi- 
fied  her   fondness   for   romance.  ''' 

"  It  is  like  Mary's  water-colors,  papa,"  she  pleaded  in  her  own 
defence,  when  he  once  criticised  her  method  of  statement ;  "  I  must 
generalize  to  give  a  broad  effect.  Besides,  the  boys  would  not 
listen  if  I    gave   them    all   the   arguments  for   and  against  the    facts." 


VISIGOTHS. 


m 


The  story  which  led  her  father  to  demur,  was  the  popular  one 
refuted  by  serious  historians,  about  the  wand  of  Wamba  ;  Bessie 
loved  to  believe  it.  The  Gothic  crown  was  offered  to  him  bv  the 
electors,  but  he  was  little  inclined  to  accept  the  dignity.  He  was 
an  excellent  man,  who  had  already  filled  honorable  posts.  Prayers 
•and  tears  were  vainly  employed  to  move  him.  At  length,  one  of 
the  dukes  of  the  palace  placed  a 
dagger  at  his  breast,  and  bade 
him  choose  between  the  sepulchre 
and  a  throne.  Such  a  choice  was 
simple,  and    Wamba   reigned. 

Such   are   the    facts    allowed    by 
historians ;    but  the  legend   is    that       §" 


KING   WAMBA. 


when  St.  Leo,  in  compliance  with 
the  earnest  wishes  of  the  Goths, 
prayed  that  they  might  be  divine- 
ly directed  in  the  choice  they 
were  about  to  make,  he  was  ad- 
monished that  they  must  seek  a 
laborer  named  Wamba,  whom 
they  must  crown.  The  soldiers 
arriving  at  his  farm  found  him  at  the  plough,  on  the  confines  of 
Portugal,  and  gave  him  the  news  of  his  appointment.  Thinking  it 
only  a  joke,  he  said,  "  Yes,  I  shall  become  king  about  the  time 
when  my  staff  puts  forth  leaves  again."  To  the  astonishment  of 
all  present,  the  dry  wood  of  the  pole  he  held  in  his  hand  was 
clothed  immediately  with  verdure.  Of  course  they  took  him  away 
by   force    to   Toledo,    and   there  crowned    him. 

Wamba  made  an  excellent  king.  He  found  the  country  at  war, 
but  soon  reduced  its  enemies.  He  was  obliged  to  go  as  far  as 
Nismes,  in  the  south  of  France,  to  suppress  an  ambitious  Greek 
named    Paul,  who   had    made   himself  crowned    there. 

Hubert  pricked  up  his  ears  at  this,  for  he  had  seen  the  Roman 
amphitheatre  at  Nismes,  that  very  summer,  and  he  was  pleased  to 
be   able   to  tell    them   about   it.     It   is  an   immense  building,  like  the 


118  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

coliseum  at  Rome,  constructed  for  the  same  purposes  —  of  combats 
of  animals  or  men.  Many  historical  phases  have  swept  over  the 
majestic  arena,  often  stained  with  the  blood  of  human  victims.  The 
crescent  floated  over  its  walls  during  the  rule  of  the  Spanish  Goths, 
before  Charles  Martel  drove  them  out  in  737. 

In  the  course  of  time,  the  place  became  neglected,  and  a  miserable 
population  which  we  should  call  squatters,  were  allowed  to  live  there. 
The  walls  are  smoked  by  the  fires  they  used  to  cook  by.  Until  the 
beginning  of  this  century,  this  superb  cirque  was  surrounded  by 
wretched  little  houses,  and  the  inside  was  filled  with  them  ;  but  since 
then  they  have  been  all  removed  away,  and  now  the  amphitheatre, 
like  most  of  the  monuments  of  France,  is  not  only  cleared  of  rub- 
bish, but  restored  in  such  a  manner  that  the  original  intention  of 
every  part  can  be  thoroughly  understood. 

Hubert  was  proud  to  tell  his  friends  about  something  they  had 
not  seen  ;  and  Mr  Horner  was  pleased  to  note  the  powers  of  obser- 
vation of  the  boy,  who  had  picked  up  these  facts  from  the  guide  who 
accompanied  them  about  the  amphitheatre.  Hubert  could  well  imagine 
just  the  scene  when  Wamba  came  and  took  possession  of  the  place. 
By  royal  command,  Paul,  the  conspiring  Greek,  and  the  other  leading 
rebels,  were  dragged  by  the  hair  of  the  head  from  the  vaults  of  the 
amphitheatre,  and  consigned  to  prison.  The  merciful  monarch  satisfied 
himself  with  condemning  them  to  wear  shaven  crowns,  and  to  be 
shut  up  within  the  walls  of  Toledo. 

"  Let  us  enact  the  scene,"  said  Bessie.  "  You  and  I,  Fanny,  will 
be  leading  rebels  on  account  of  our  long  hair,  and  the  boys  can  be 
the  myrmidons  of  Wamba,  and  drag  us  about." 

This  brief  entertainment  took  place  somewhat  appropriately  in  the 
room  with  the  green  iron  door,  by  which  Bessie  thought  that  Roderic 
the  Goth  left  for  good,  on  the  last  day  of  their  short  stay  in 
Toledo.  They  had  bought  their  Toledo  blades,  and  taken  one  last 
stroll  through  the  irregular  streets.  After  a  hearty  meal  provided 
by  the  kind  senoras,  they  were  waiting  for  their  guide  to  carry 
them  to  the  station  for  railway  omnibuses.  He  came,  and  they 
walked    to    the    square,   where    they    had    time    for     some     delicious 


VISIGOTHS. 


119 


sherbet  in  a  kind  of  restaurant,  then  climbed  into  a  long  omnibus 
which  rapidly  filled  with  Spaniards  who  had  been  passing  the  day 
at  Toledo,  and  were  going  home  by  the  train  ;  women  in  mantillas, 
others  with  bright  handkerchiefs  tied  about  their  heads,  all  merrily 
chatting  together,  as  a  similar  crowd  might  in  an  American  barge. 
The  Horners  arrived  at  the  hotel  in  Madrid  to  find  Nana  and 
the   baby  all   right,   and   a  letter  from   Colonel   Vaughan. 


OMNIBUS  TO  THE   STATION. 


120  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 


COMBINATION, 


COLONEL  VAUGHAN'S  letter  was  addressed  to  Mr.  Horner, 
with  an  enclosure  for  Hubert.  He  "  availed  himself  gladly," 
he  said,  of  the  proposal  contained  in  Mr.  Horner's  postscript  sent 
in  Hubert's  last  letter,  that  his  family  should  continue  under  the 
protection  of  Mr.    Horner   as    far   as    Gibraltar. 

"  Well,  that  is  cool  I  "  said  Miss  Lejeune,  when  Mr.  Horner 
handed   her   the   letter. 

"  Rather  brief,"  said  Mr.  Horner,  "  but  he  had  a  right  to  put  that 
construction   on    my   offer.     In    fact,    I    expected    it." 

"What   did   you    say  .^  "    she    asked. 

"I  merely  said  that  I  was  going  finally  to  Gibraltar;  and  that 
although  not  yet  decided  as  to  my  route,  or  how  much  time  it 
would  take,  I  should  be  glad  to  be  a  friend  to  his  children,  in 
whom  we  had  begun  to  take  an  interest,  and  that,  therefore,  I 
hoped   he   would   let   me   know   how   I   could    be   of   service." 

"  That  was  rather  vague,"  said  Miss  Lejeune.  "  What  really  was 
your  idea  ? " 

"  My  idea  was  rather  vague,"  replied  Mr.  Horner.  "  I  wanted  to 
take  them  to  Toledo  ;  and  I  thought  that  would  give  time  for  a 
letter  from  the  father,  and  he  might  find  it  easier  to  give  his  direc- 
tions to  me  than  to  a  mere  boy.     Besides"  — 

"Besides,"  interrupted  Miss  Lejeune,  "you  thought  it  might  come 
to  this." 

"Do  you  much  object.-'"  asked  Mr.   Horner  rather  meekly. 

"  Not  at  all !  "  replied  Miss  Augusta.  "  I  think  the  addition  of  the 
children   is   excellent   for   both    Tommy   and    Bessie.     It    was    a    risk, 


COMBINATION. 


121 


because  we  might  not  have  liked  them;  but  there  is  good  stuff  in 
Hubert,  and  Fanny  is  a  harmless  little  thing.  But  "  —  she  stopped 
and  laughed. 

"But,"  said  Mr.  Horner,  continuing  her  thought,  "it  is  comic  that 
we  have  burdened  ourselves  with  a  nurse  and  child  that  we  know 
nothing   about !  " 

"  And  when,"  added  Miss  Lejeune,  "  we  reduced  our  own  party 
because  'four  is  enough  for  travelling  in  Spain.'" 

Mr.  Horner  assumed  a  grave  expression,  although  the  corners  of 
his  mouth  had  a  smiling  tendency. 

"What  will  mamma  say.-""  he  sighed. 

"She   will   worry,"    returned     Miss   Augusta    promptly.      "I     think 
it  will   be  well  not  to   dwell   on 
the  details  of  the  plan  until  we 
are   fairly  out  of  the  scrape." 

"  We  shall  come  out  of  it 
well  enough  ! "  said  Mr.  Horner. 
"  I  rely  on  Nana's  intelli- 
gence." 

"  Of  course,"  said  Miss  Le- 
jeune cheerfully  ;  "  all  the  same, 
I  must  say  Colonel  Vaughan 
takes  his  family  remarkably 
easy." 

"  I  rather  long  to  see  Colonel 
Vaughan,"  remarked  Mr.  Hor- 
ner. 

Great  was  the  joy  of  the  younger  portion  of  the  Combination, 
when  the  news  was  announced  that  they  were  all  to  travel  together, 
Nana  was  full  of  gratitude.  She  relieved  one  serious  doubt  of  Mr. 
Horner's,  namely,  the  money  question.  She  was  provided  with  an 
ample  letter  of  credit,  and  was  perfectly  sure  Colonel  Vaughan 
would   not   care   how   much    they   spent. 

"Nor  how  long  we  stay  away,"  she  grumbled  in  a  tone  not 
altogether   meant   for   herself  alone. 


ROMAN    TOMB. 


122     ■  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

Mr.  Horner  fancied  that  Nana's  heart  was  full  of  bitterness 
toward  her  master ;  but  he  thought  it  far  the  best  course  not  to 
press  the  subject  with  her.  Time  would  show,  little  by  little,  the 
true  relations  of  the  Vaughans,  and  meanwhile  they  were  not  to  be 
made   the  subject    of   idle    curiosity. 

Children  accept  all  the  events  of  life  without  surprise.  Even 
Bessie,  who  was  the  eldest,  thought  it  a  very  natural  and  delightful 
plan  to  invite  the  Vaughans.  Tommy  and  Hubert  got  on  very 
well  together,  although  each  had  begun  by  half  despising  the  kind 
of   boy    the    other   was,  or    seemed    to   be. 

Miss  Augusta  regarded  the  position  with  some  amusement.  She 
soon  began  to  take  great  comfort  in  Nana,  who,  with  ready  tact,  at 
once  devoted  herself  to  her  new  lady,  and  to  fulfil  the  little  tasks 
belonging  to  a  maid.  Miss  Lejeune  always  travelled  without  one, 
but  she  loved  to  be  waited  upon,  and  she  gladly  relegated  the  whole 
subject  of  boots,  gloves,  ruffles,  etc.,  to  Nana,  who  now  looked  after 
her  wardrobe   and    Bessie's,   as  well   as    that    of  Fanny  Vaughan. 

In  fact,  the  plan  worked  so  well  that  Miss  Augusta  after  a  day 
or   two    was  heard    to    exclaim    to    Bessie : 

"My   dear,    I    don't   know   how   we   ever   got    on    without   them!" 

But  in  the  beginning  it  was  a  little  hard  for  Mr.  Horner,  whose 
burden,  the  luggage,  was  now  nearly  doubled.  Nana  did  what  she 
could,  but  the  burden  must  come  chiefly  upon  one  person,  who  must 
know  how  many  pieces  there  are,  and  exactly  where  they  are. 
Mr.  Horner  bore  up  manfully,  conscious  that  he  was  the  author  of 
the   mischief,    if  mischief  there  were. 

They  were  now  to  confront  another  night  journey,  and  Miss 
Lejeune's  prophetic  mind  was  in  gloom  at  the  thought  of  eight  in 
the   carriage,    and    one  of  them    a    baby !     "  Too    ridiculous  !  " 

But  when  they  went  up  to  the  place  for  buying  the  tickets, 
Hubert   said   to    Mr.   Horner : 

"  Nana   always   travels    second-class." 

"What,    and   you    too  .^  " 

"  Yes ;    papa  prefers    it,"    said    Hubert. 

Mr.    Horner    was     puzzled,      He    had    taken    first-class    tickets    to 


PUERTA   DE    LA    INCLUSA. 


)         *      i      i   J       >         J    } 
»t>  o  :>       5  3         0 


t      J 
J     :>  >  >    3      3 


J  '    a     J     * 


J        >  O  '  '     5  > 


COMBINATION.  126 

Toledo,  by  which  Hubert  had  found  out  that  it  was  the  habit  of  the 
Horners    to    travel    thus. 

It  is  an  excellent  plan  to  go  second-class  in  Germany,  and  in 
many  parts  of  Europe,  and  the  Horners  as  a  general  thing  did 
so.  But  in  Spain,  and  especially  in  night  travelling,  Mr.  Horner 
was  determined  to  secure  all  the  comforts  possible  ;  in  fact,  the  first- 
class  carriages  are  none  too  luxurious.  He  hesitated  now,  not 
liking,   at   the   very  start,  to  separate   himself  from    his    charges. 

"Why  do  you  doubt.?"  said  Nana.  "We  go  always  very  safe. 
Hubert,  do   you   buy  the   tickets   for   us,  you   have   money." 

This  was  the  sensible  plan,  of  course,  and  this  was  the  method 
adopted  afterwards.  The  second-class  compartment  was  very  near 
the  one  chosen  by  the  Horners  for  themselves.  They  saw  the  others 
safely  disposed  in  their  seats,  which  were  comfortable  enough,  the 
only  drawback  being  a  row  of  Spanish  hidalgos  in  mantas,  with 
cigarettes  in  their  mouths  ;  but  the  Spanish  hidalgo  is  at  present  a 
very  mild  one.  And  thus  Miss  Lejeune  retained  her  corner  unmo- 
lested   through    the   weary    night. 

It  was  about  two  a.  m.  when  they  were  all  awakened  by  tb-^  :top- 
ping  of  the  train  in  a  huge  dark  station,  dimly  lighted.  "  Half  an 
hour  for  refreshments !  "  is  the  translation  of  the  cry  passed  down 
the  platform  ;  and  the  Horners  all  tumbled  out  hastily,  Miss  Lejeune 
in  her  slippers  and  sphinx-like  veil,  Bessie  more  asleep  than  awake, 
Tommy  alert,  as  usual,  at  the  rumor  of  food.  He  skipped  off  to 
rouse  the  rest,  but  the  only  recruit  he  could  obtain  was  Fanny ; 
the   others   were   too   far   gone   in  sleepiness. 

They  pressed  along  with  the  rest  of  the  passengers  to  the  fonda 
or  buffet,  a  long  dark  room  thick  with  cigarette-smoke,  and  were 
shoved  by  the  crowd  into  seats  at  one  of  several  long  tables,  set 
with  cups,  without  saucers,  of  thick  crockery,  filled  with  thick  choc- 
olate. Each  cup  was  covered  with  a  flat,  round  sponge-cake,  to  be 
broken  and  dipped  into  the  brown  substance  which  could  not  be 
called  liquid.  They  watched  the  others,  and  did  what  they  did,  and 
strange  to  say,  the  food  seemed  to  go  to  the  right  spot.  A  full 
glass    of   water     stood     by   each    cup,    to     be    quaffed    after  it.      No 


126 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


one  spoke  much  ;  the  dark  Spaniards  with  hats  slouched  over 
their  heads,  and  mantas  on  their  shoulders,  sipped  their  favorite 
beverage  in  silence.  Suddenly  a  wonderful  creature,  looking  like  a 
ruffian,  with  a  bright  waist-band  stuck  full  of  weapons,  passed  down 
the  room.  He  had  knives  to  sell,  and  daggers,  with  blades  of  Moorish 
curves,  and  hilts  set  with  jewels,  tinsel,  in  reality,  —  cheap  and  gaudy, 
but  delightfully  Spanish.  The  Homers  all  provided  themselves,  for 
a  few  pesetas  apiece,  and  they  brought  back  from  Spain  nothing 
more   admired. 

Our  Americans  could  not  help  feeling  in  a  hurry,  and  they  were 
almost  the  first  to  take  their  seats  in  the  train.  They  found 
Nana    with    the     baby,     and     Hubert,    the    sole    occupants    of     their 

carriage  ;  all  the  Spaniards  had  taken 
themselves  and  their  mantas  to  the 
fonda. 

Hubert    sat   up    and    stared   at   them 
with    round    eyes. 

"  Where   have   you   been  .-' " 
"  Drinking   chocolate,    thick    as  mud ! 
And    see    my  dagger!  "    cried    Tommy, 
brandishing   it. 

"Oh,  I  wish    I    had    one!     I   wish    I 
had  chocolate !  " 

"Come   with    me,    Hubert,"    said    Mr. 
Horner ;    "  we   will   go    back    and    you    shall    have   some." 
"  Oh  I    is   there    time .'' "    asked    Miss    Augusta. 

"  Time !  millions  of  time,"  replied  Mr.  Horner.  "  I  dare  say  they 
will  not   start   till    to-morrow    morning !  " 

'' Manatia !    Mana}ia!"    (To-morrow!     to-morrow!)  murmured    Miss 
Lejeune. 
They  were   gone   sometime,    and    Bessie    said  : 
"  How   mamma   would    worry !    but    they   are   sure  to   be  back." 
And    so   they   were,    but   not   until    the    guards    were    banging   the 
doors,   and   urging   the   caballeros   to    take   their   places.     Mr.    Horner 
popped    Hubert   into    his,    and    sprang    to    his     seat.     The    door   was 


CERVANTES. 


ANCIENT  ENTRANCE. 


J    }  J    >    J 


>*     >        i    }  i     >     »^.-» 


•  .  .      '  '  I  C        L 


COMBINATION. 


129 


closed,  and  the  train  shook.  "  Did  Hubert  get  a  dagger  ? "  asked 
Tommy. 

"  No  ;  the  man  had  vanished.  Perhaps  we  shall  have  another 
chance." 

It  was  ten  o'clock  the  next  morning  before  they  arrived  at  Cor- 
dova, and  they  reached  their  hotel  in  the  stupid  and  owl-like 
condition  to  which  no  practice  could  make  them  accustomed.  All 
acknowledged,  however,  that  their  nocturnal  chocolate  had  had  a  good 
effect,  —  even   Miss   Augusta,  —  who   abominated    the   stuff. 

They  had  passed  during  the  night  over  the  treeless,  stony 
Campos  de  la  Mancha,  a  name  associated  with  Cervantes,  and  his 
hero   Don    Quixote. 


A  MONTAJNEtK--"»WAY  HOME. 
.SiJYtHft   WUT». 


130 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  ttPAIN. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


CORDOVA. 


DOWN    with    the   Goth   and    up   with 
the   Moor ! "   cried    Bessie,  as    they 
drove    to     their    hotel    through    the 


narrow  whitewashed  streets  of  Cor- 
dova. 

"  Why  do  you  say  that  ? "  asked 
sleepy    Hubert. 

"Cannot    you    see     for    yourself," 

asked    Bessie,    "  that    everything     is 

changed  ?     This   is  just  as   different 

from   Toledo  "  — 

"  Different  to  Toledo,   you    mean," 

grumbled    Hubert. 

There  were  frequent  skirmishes 
between  the  children  on  account  of 
differences   in    their   English. 

"  Come,  children,  do  not  talk 
before  breakfast,"  said  Miss  Lejeune.  "  Luckily  we  shall  have  some 
soon,   for   here   we   are." 

The   hotel   was   upon   a  modern    square  ;   a  minaret   of    no   historic 
importance,  but   in   the    Moorish     style,    rose    before    them,    and    the 
flat-roofed   houses   were   all  painted    in  gay   colors,    each    story   a   dif- 
ferent  tint.     A   few   palm-trees    showed    their   heads    here   and    there. 
"  How    Eastern !    is    it   not .? "    exclaimed    Mr.    Horner. 
"More  Eastern  than   the    East!"    replied    Miss    Lejeune. 
The    Homers   had   allowed    themselves   but   one    day  for    Cordova, 


COAT   OF  ARMS  OF  CORDOVA. 


CORDOVA. 


131 


as  everybody  told  them  the  Mosque  was  the  chief  thing,  and  that 
it  all  could  be  done  in  a  short  time.  This  was  true,  but  these 
single  days  of  sight-seeing  are  very  fatiguing,  and  should  be  avoided 
whenever   it   is   possible. 

A   good   breakfast   gave   them   courage,    and    after    it,    they    sallied 


ENTRANCE   TO   THE   ORANGE    PATIO. 


forth  under  the  escort  of  a  Moor,  the  only  Arab  left  in  Cordova, 
by  his  own  accoun".  Nana  and  the  baby,  by  preference,  retiring 
to   bed  for   a   solid    sleep   of  five    hours. 

They  walked  in  the   middle  of  the  street,  over  rough  cobble-stones, 


132  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

sometimes  meeting  a  donkey,  but  seldom  seeing  any  inhabitants. 
Occasionally  a  glimpse  through  an  iron  barred  gateway  showed 
lovely  patios  with  foliage  and  fountains  ;  but  the  streets  presented 
blank  whitewashed  walls  with  but  few  windows.  Each  frequent  turn 
of  the  street,  excluding  any  glimpse  of  distance,  shuts  in  the  way- 
farer and  prevents  his  gaining  any  notion  of  where  he  is  going. 
It  is  very  easy  to  lose  one's  self  in  the  intricacies  of  a  Spanish 
town,  of  which  Cordova  seems  the  most  lonely  and  deserted.  It  is 
as  if  the  inhabitants  had  vanished,  leaving  behind  them  solitude  and 
the   shadow   of  Moorish    splendors    past. 

Having  reached  the  Mosque,  they  entered  first  the  Court  of 
Oranges,  a  large  enclosed  patio  with  orange-trees  planted  in  it,  and 
at  each  end  a  colonnade  of  marble  pillars  supporting  circular  arches. 
It  was  so  quiet,  so  Eastern  within  this  enclosure,  that  they  would 
have  gladly  lingered  there ;  but  their  Moor  hurried  them  onward,  and 
in   a   few  minutes    they  were   within    the  wonderful    temple. 

The  first  impression  is  one  of  bewilderment  and  amazement, 
produced  by  the  maze  of  pillars,  often  compared  to  a  roofed-in 
forest.  There  are  nearly  a  thousand  columns,  and  wherever  one 
is  standing,  as  in  a  planted  wood  of  pines,  they  form  receding 
aisles.  They  are  all  of  marbles  of  different  colors  and  kinds, —  green 
and  red  jasper,  and  porphyry,  black,  white,  red  or  emerald.  The 
arches  connecting  them  are  in  stripes  of  red  and  white,  which  add 
to   the   variegated   effect  of  the   whole. 

It  is  wonderful,  and  wholly  differs  from  the  Gothic  cathedrals 
the  Horners  had  been  seeing.  The  proportions  are  low,  compared 
with  the  lofty  aisles  of  Burgos  and  Toledo,  and  the  effect  new  and 
strange. 

They  liked  less  than  ever  to  be  led  about  and  made  to  see 
details  ;  but  their  Moor  was  at  their  heels.  The  Mih-rab,  or  holiest 
place  of  the  Mosque,  they  found  the  most  beautiful  specimen  of 
Moorish  decoration  they  had  seen,  not  excepting  similar  places  in 
the  East;  the  rich  coloring  and  gilding  are  still  free  from  whitewash, 
which  has  covered  so  many  Arabian  splendors  in  Spain.  Here 
once   was    kept   the   wonderful    pulpit    of    Al-Hakem,    of    inlaid    ivorv 


CORDOVA. 


133 


and  precious  woods  and  stones,  fastened  with  gold  and  silver 
nails.  It  was  kept  in  a  box  covered  with  gold  tissue  embroidered 
with  pearls  and  rubies.  This  pulpit  disappeared  not  very  long  ago  ; 
but   the   beautiful  Mosaic  ornamentation  of  the   Mih-rab  still  remains 


INTERIOR  OF  THE  MOSQUE  OF  CORDOVA. 


to  give  an  idea  of  its  former  splendor.  In  the  festivities  of  Rha- 
madan,  the  Mosque  used  to  be  lighted  with  more  than  ten  thou- 
sand   lamps. 


134 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN". 


When  the  Moors  entered  Cordova  after  their  victory  over  the 
Goths,  they  assured  the  Christians,  as  usual,  the  Hberty  of  their 
religion,  and  allowed  them  the  use  of  their  cathedral,  built  on  the 
site   of  a  temple   to   Janus.     This   church   was   extant   in    745. 

But  soon  the  population  of  Moors  increased  so  much  that  they 
required  more  room  for  their  own  worship,  and  they  were  obliged 
to  take  away  from  the  Christians  half  of  their  cathedral  and  make 
a  mosque  of  it.  In  784  Abdurrahman  the  First  bought  also  the  Chris- 
tian half,  determined  to  build  a  magnificent  mosque,  on  the  plan  of 
that   at   Damascus,    and    more    splendid    than   the    one   at   Bagdad. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  this  date,  of  the  eighth  century  of 
our  Christian  era,  was  not  two  hundred  years  after  Mohammed. 
The  Mohammedan  religion,  therefore,  was  in  great  vigor,  and  new 
mosques    were    being    built    in    the    great     cities   of    this   faith,   with 

the    greatest   splendor   and  display 


of  wealth.  This  at  Cordova  was 
to  be  the  Mecca  of  the  West. 
The  Caliph  in  person  designed 
the  plan,  and  is  said  to  have 
worked  upon  the  building  himself 
for  a  few  hours  every  day.  He 
died,  however,  the  year  after  it 
was  begun,  but  his  son  Hixem 
carried  it  on  with  the  same  energy, 
and  it  was  finished  in  796,  ten 
years  after  the  first  stone  was 
laid.  In  its  palmy  days,  the  roof 
glistened  with  gilding  and  vivid 
colors,  and  thousands  of  gold 
and  silver  lamps ;  its  walls  were 
worked  like  lace,  in  delicate  arabesque,  looking  like  Cashmere  shawls, 
illuminated  from  behind,  and  its  arches,  studded  with  emeralds  and 
rubies  rested  on  the  superbly  colored  columns.  Now  the  precious 
stones  are  stolen,  whitewash  has  obliterated  most  of  the  rich  color- 
ing,  and   ignorance   and   neglect   have   done   the   rest. 


CHARLES  V. 


COKDOVA. 


135 


On  the  conquest  of  the  Moors  by  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  they 
had  the  Mosque  purified  and  dedicated  to  the  Virgin.  Several 
chapels  were  added,  and  Charles  the  Fifth,  in  his  time,  allowed  the 
erection  of  a  church  within  the  Mosque,  consisting  of  a  transept 
and  choir  in  the  very  middle  of  the  interior,  amongst  the  grove  of 
pillars,  ruining  every  vista,  and  destroying  the  whole  effect  of  the 
original   plan.     It    is   some    comfort    to    know  that    when    the  emperor 


WALL   OF   THE   MOSQUE   OF    CORDOVA. 

came  to  Cordova  and  saw  what  had  been  done,  he  was  very  indig- 
nant, and  said  he  had  no  idea  that  the  architects  had  meant  to 
meddle   with    the    old    part. 

The  Homers  were  so  disgusted  with  the  stupidity  of  the  archi- 
tects, which  allowed  them  to  deface  so  wonderful  a  piece  of  original 
work  by  putting  anything  else  inside  of  it,  that  they  could  scarcely 
look  at  the  elaborately  carved  pulpits,  and  stalls,  the  retablo  of 
jasper  and  gilt  ornaments  of  the  emperor's  chapel,  all  rich  and  well 
executed    in    the     sixteenth    century.      Other     Spanish    churches    in 


136 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


Other  places  they  might  admire,  but  not  this  misplaced  specimen. 
After  they  left  the  cathedral,  the  Moor  took  them  to  the  site  of 
the  Caliph's  palace,  of  which  nothing  now  remains  but  a  few  walls 
and  orchards.  There  is  a  modern  house  with  a  garden  containing 
some  trace  of  the  old  water-works ;  they  wandered  through  shady 
alleys,  overhung  with  neglected  rose-bushes  and  pomegranates  in 
blossom.  The  nespola  was  ripe,  an  odd  fruit,  like  a  little  pear  with 
a  stone  in  the  middle.  They  sat  upon  a  bench  above  a  large  stone 
tank  in  which  carp  were  swimming,  and  tempted  the  fish  to  rise  by 
throwing  in  to  them  little  bits  of  stick  and  flowers,  as  they  had  no 
bread,  or  anything  to  make  crumbs  with.  Great  lazy  creatures  came 
and  poked  up  their  noses  at  the  bright  geranium   petals,  and  whisked 


BRIDGE   OVER   THE    GUADALQUIVIR. 


away  contemptuously,  but  they  did  not  tell  the  rest,  for  others  kept 
coming.  The  Moor  gathered  little  bunches  of  flowers  for  the  ladies. 
It  was  very  pleasant  to  sit  in  the  shade,  and  see  the  bright  sunlight 
and  sky.  Before  them  rose  the  walls  of  the  Alcazar  Nuevo,  now 
used   as   a   prison. 

This  Alcazar  was  once  the  palace  of  the  Gothic  kings,  where 
the  Caliphs  lived  afterwards,  repairing  it  and  enlarging  it.  Moor- 
ish   writers   describe  its    wonderful   gardens    and    halls,  and    its    baths 


CORDOVA.  137 

provided  with  water  brought  from  the  Guadalquivir  through  a  brick 
hydrauHc  machine.  These  baths  lasted  until  the  end  of  the  fifteenth 
century,  when  the  huge  wheel  which  supplied  them  with  water  was 
destroyed,  because  its  noise  kept  Queen  Isabella  awake,  when  she 
was   established  in    the   Alcazar. 

From  an  arbor  in  the  terrace  of  the  garden  all  overhung  with 
grapevines  then  in  blossom,  could  be  seen  the  bridge  over  the 
Guadalquivir,  of  sixteen  arches,  very  picturesque,  with  a  many- 
sided  tower  beyond  it.  Miss  Lejeune  made  a  little  pencil  sketch 
of  it  in  her  note  book,  while  the  boys  and  Fanny  took  a  second 
excursion  around  the  weedy  paths  of  the  rambling,  neglected  gar- 
den. Bessie  leaned  against  the  parapet  looking  off  on  the  hot 
midday  landscape,  and  dreamed  of  the  Caliphs  of  Cordova.  The 
Moorish  guide,  awaiting  them,  sat  upon  the  lowest  of  the  steps 
leading  to  the  arbor,  and  hummed  little  Arabic  songs  that  reminded 
them  of  the  East.  This  midsummer  dream  was  disturbed  by  Tommy, 
who  came  running   up,  saying : 

"  Fanny  don't  feel  well.  I  believe  she  is  too  hot.  She  is  sitting 
on   the   steps   over   there  !  " 

Miss  Lejeune  shut  up  her  sketch  book  at  once. 

"  She  has  been  running  about  in  the  heat  too  much,"  she  said. 
"  Where   is   your   father  .-*  " 

"  Papa  !    papa  ! "    called  Bessie  and  Tommy  with  one  breath. 

"  He  is  somewhere  in  the   gardens,"  said  Bessie,  "  he  will  find  us." 

They  hastened,  the  guide  following,  to  the  place  indicated  by 
Tommy,  and  found  poor  Fanny,  now  looking  very  white,  sitting  on 
a  stone  step,  and  leaning  against  the  trunk  of  a  palm-tree  which 
happened  to  be  there.  Hubert  was  wetting  her  forehead  with  his 
handkerchief  which    he   had   dipped   in    the   carp   pond. 

"  I    feel  so  dizzy,"  moaned   Fanny. 

Mr.  Horner  now  approached  from  another  direction.  "  Poor  child ! 
it   is   the    heat,"    he  said  ;    "  we   must   carry  you    home." 

He  stooped  to  lift  her  in  his  arms,  but  the  guide  put  him 
aside,  and  bearing  the  little  girl  well  and  firmly,  led  the  way  back 
to  the  hotel. 


13S 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


ANDALUSIA. 


B 


ESSIE'S    letter    to    Mary   will 
describe  the  rest  of  their  day 
in  Cordova. 

"Now  you  must  know  that  at 
breakfast  a  stout  man  sat  opposite 
me  with  whom  we  had  nothing  to 
do  until  I  took  a  piece  of  cheese 
and  began  to  eat  it  before  engag- 
ing upon  an  orange.  The  man 
now  accosted  me,  and  said  in 
French,  that  it  was  dangerous  to 
do  that,  as  the  two  things  did 
not  join  well  in  the  stomach.  This 
began  a  friendly  conversation,  which 
was  followed  up  by  an  invitation 
to  see  his  strawberry  garden. 
"So  after  we  came  back  from  the  Mosque  and  Alcazar  gardens, 
although  we  were  most  dead,  we  took  a  carriage  and  drove  to 
his  place,  on  an  open  sort  of  boulevard  near  the  railway,  modern 
built,  and  quite  different  from  the  winding  whitewash  of  the 
Moorish  streets.  He  was  a  most  dear  man,  the  Gefe  of  mechanicians 
of  the  railroad.  You  must  pronounce  Gefe  as  if  you  were  going 
to  say  hay-fever,  but  stop  short  of  the  last  syllable.  He  is 
Alsatian,  but  his  wife,  from  Malaga,  speaks  only  Spanish  Her 
mother,  however,  came  originally  from  Germany,  and  we  tried  a 
little  of  that  language  with  the  old  lady.  If  you  could  have  seen 
us     all    hobnobbing    in    these    languages,    and    receiving    handsful    of 


MOORISH    KNOCKER. 


ANDALUSIA.  139 

the  most  delicious  fat  roses,  jasmines,  orange  blossoms,  gilly 
flowers,  larkspurs,  pansies,  all  the  time  our  radiant  host  telling  us 
how  he  loved  to  have  us  see  his  garden,  which  owes  its  luxuriance 
to  intelligent  irrigation.  A  little  fountain  was  playing  in  the  mid- 
dle of  it,  and  little  rivers  trickled  everywhere  with  bright  borders 
of  grass  dipping  in  them.  His  strawberry  bed  bears  all  the  year 
round ;  and  a  muchacha  was  set  to  gather  strawberries  the  minute 
we  got  there ;  and  by  and  by  when  it  was  high  time  to  come 
away,  we  were  led  into  the  house  where  there  was  a  piano  they 
forced    me  to  play  on  —  me  !     I  played  — 

Way  down  upon  the  Swanee  River, 

and  they  thought  it  was  beautiful.  Anyhow  it  filled  up  the  time 
till  a  repast  of  fruit  was  prepared.  The  Gefe  took  great  oranges 
from  his  own  tree,  cut  them  in  two,  squeezed  them  like  a  sponge, 
and  the  juice  poured  out  over  the  strawberries  heaped  up  in  a 
big  dish,  with  lots  of  sugar.  This  is  the  true  way  to  eat  them, 
in  a  land  where  both  fruits  are  really  sweet.  But  fancy  the  straw- 
berry of  commerce,  at  home,  with  a  sour  Valencia  orange  squeezed 
over  it !  Not  all  the  sugar  at  Park  &  Tilford's  could  sweeten  that 
■combination.  He  brought  out  his  own  wine  from  his  own  grapes. 
It  was  not  first-class,  but  the  intention  was  good,  as  you  say 
about  a  bad  water-color ;  we  all  touched  glasses  and  sipped,  and 
finally  came  away  with  expressions  of  mutual  and  undying  regard. 
You  can't  imagine  what  a  dear  man  he  was,  and  he  behaved 
exactly  as   if  we   were   the   only   people   he    had    ever   loved." 

Bessie  and  her  father  were  the  only  Horners  who  enjoyed  this 
episode  of  Cordovan  hospitality,  for  Miss  Lejeune  was  not  sorry 
for  the  excuse  of  staying  at  home  to  look  after  little  Fanny,  and 
the  boys  declined  the  formality  of  a  visit.  When  they  heard  after- 
wards of  the  feast  of  strawberries,  they  all  thought  perhaps  they 
had    made   a    mistake. 

As  for  Fanny,  a  cool  dark  room,  and  sound  sleep  on  a  comfort- 
able  bed,  soon   restored    her.     Probably   the   heat   had   overcome   her. 


140 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


Nana,  refreshed  by  a  quiet  morning,  was  cheerful  and  active,  and 
sat  by  Fanny's  bedside  during  the  rest  of  the  day,  while  the  boys 
looked  after  the  baby,  and  amused  her  with  playthings  in  the 
salon   of  the    hotel. 

They  were  glad    to  go  to    bed    early,  after  the  uneasy  night  before, 

and  the  long  sight- 
seeing day  ;  moreover, 
they  were  to  be  called 
at  four  the  next  morn- 
ing, to  take  the  train 
at  six  o'clock  for 
Seville. 

Cordova  was  the 
gem  of  the  South  as 
long  ago  as  Roman 
times.  Under  the 
Goths  it  lost  its  im- 
portance, but  regained 
it  under  the  Moors, 
who  made  it  the  cap- 
ital of  their  part  of 
Spain.  The  wealth, 
luxury  and  splendor 
it  contained  at  that 
time  was  like  the 
descriptions  in  the 
Arabian  Nights ;  it 
lasted  through  various 
changes  of  Arabic 
rule  until  the  thir- 
teenth century,  when 
it  was  captured  by  Saint  Ferdinand,  and  lost  all  its  prosperity, 
which  it  since   has  never  recovered. 

In   spite   of  its    Moorish    attributes,  Cordova  is    now  a   good  Chris- 
tian city,  and  under  the  especial  protection  of  the  Archangel  Raphael, 


OIUKCH    OF    bAN    PAULU,    CURDOVA. 


ANDALUSIA. 


141 


in  whose  honor 
ment  was  erected 
On  top  of  a  col- 
angel  stands,  a 
with  outstretched 
with  gilding,  like 
ing  over  his  city. 
umn  is  an  arti- 
rock-work,  about 
a  lion,  and  a 
grouped  in  a  gro- 
less  way,  with 
statues.  It  is  said 
gel  appeared  in 
certain  priest  of 
chamber,  and 
swear  to  you 
Angel  Raphael, 
has  given  to  me 
of  this  city, 
in  1578,  and  in 
of  it  the  monu- 
later.   The  words 


^v-  monu- 
a  century  ago. 
umn  the  arch- 
sword  in  hand, 
wings,  and  bright 
a  sentinel  watch- 
Below  the  col- 
ficial  mound  of 
which  a  horse, 
sea-monster  are 
tesque  and  taste- 
f  o  u  r  allegorical 
that  the  archan- 
person  before  a 
Cordova  in  his 
said  to  him :  "I 
that  I  am  the 
and  that  God 
the  guardianship 
This  happened 
commemoration 
ment  was  made 
of     the     angel, 


Raphael's  pillar. 


142  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

in  Spanish,  are  inserted  upon  its  base.  In  Cordova  the  Homers  first 
understood  the  real  patio,  which  is  at  its  best  in  Andalusia ;  other 
square  courtyards  they  had  seen  which  bore  the  name,  but  they 
were  not  to  compare  with  the  brightness  of  the  one  into  which 
their    Moor    led     them     from    the   dull    street. 

A  patio  is  not  merely  a  court,  it  is  not  only  a  garden,  but  a 
court,  garden,  and  a  parlor  all  in  one.  Between  this  one  and  the 
street  was  a  narrow  passage,  or  vestibule,  paved  with  marble, 
flanked  with  columns,  surmounted  with  bas-reliefs,  closed  with  a 
grille,  or  gate,  of  light  iron  railings  gracefully  designed.  Opposite 
the  entrance  was  a  statue  ;  in  the  middle  a  fountain  was  playing 
and  a  palm-tree  and  orange-trees  were  growing  ;  chairs  and  tables, 
vases  of  flowers,  books  and  work  were  scattered  about,  just  left  by 
the  people  of  the  house,  who  there  could  enjoy  the  charms  of 
ourdoors  life  with  all  the  seclusion  of  an  interior.  Above  was  an 
awning  which  might  be  drawn  over  the  top  if  the  sun  should 
intrude   too   far. 

Miss  Lejeune  was  delighted  with  this  lovely  specimen  of  a  patio. 

"We  must  have  them  at  home,"  she  exclaimed;  "why  not.-'  We 
might   build   them    in    New    York  just  as   well   as    here." 

"Instead    of  back  yards!"  said  Tommy. 

"  I'll  tell  you  how  we  could  manage  it.  The  Grillsons  and  we 
could   run    our   back   yards    together." 

This  was    Bessie's    plan. 

"It  would  be  best,"  said  Mr.  Horner,  lending  himself  to  the 
project,  "for  four  houses  to  combine,  do  not  you  think  so.?  Two  on 
each  street,  whose  yards  touch  as  ours  does  with  the  Grillsons. 
Then  instead  of  that  narrow  back  street  which  the  grocer's  carts 
frequent,  there  would  be  a  series  of  patios,  with  houses  running 
about   the   four    sides. 

"Yes,"  continued  Bessie,  "and  there  could  be  Moorish  arches 
underneath   the   houses   for   the   carts   to   drive  through." 

"It  would  not  be  nice,"  objected  Miss  Lejeune,  "to  have  all 
the  carts  and  the  rag  and  bottle  men  coming  through  our  patio 
when   we   were   taking   our    siestas''' 


PATIO   OF  A   PRIVATE   HOUSE,   CORDOVA. 


>  3     '        > 


ANDALUSIA.  145 

"And  I  should  not  want  the  Grillson  boy  to  have  the  same 
patio   with    us,"  said    Tommy. 

"Oh,  well!"  said  his  father,  "if  there  is  that  difficulty,  we  shall 
have  to  wait  until  we  love  our  neighbors  as  ourselves  before  we 
introduce   patios    in    New   York." 

The  ride  from  Cordova  to  Seville  was  lovely  in  the  early  morn- 
ing, for  they  were  fresh  from  a  good  sound  sleep  in  their  beds,  and 
could  enjoy  it.  The  road  was  bordered  with  hedges  of  agave  and 
cactus,  the  tall  flower  stalks  of  the  former  shooting  up  as  high  as 
the  telegraph  poles,  for  which  they  might  serve  if  they  were  only 
permanent.  The  ones  just  preparing  to  blossom  looked  like  huge 
asparagus  stalks,  Fanny  said  ;  others  more  advanced  spread  out  side 
shoots  like  the  branches  of  gigantic  candelabra.  All  the  land  was 
covered  with  verdure  ;  by  the  running  streams  masses  of  pink  ole- 
ander bloomed  and  marked  their  course ;  the  fluffy  blossom  of  yel- 
low acacia  perfumed  the  air,  and  its  sweet  scent  floated  in  at  the 
open    window. 

In  short  it  was  Andalusia !  Andalusia,  the  land  of  romance  and 
sunshine,  the   most    beautiful  province  of  beautiful    Spain. 

Andalusia  embraces  the  whole  of  Southern  Spain,  and  its  farth- 
est cape  is  the  extreme  southerly  point  not  only  of  Spain,  but  of 
Europe.  One  chain  of  its  mountains,  the  Sierra  Nevada,  contains 
the  highest  summits  of  the  peninsula,  and  its  river,  the  Guadal- 
quivir, from  Seville  to  the  ocean,  is  the  only  stream  of  real  ser- 
vice for  navigation  in  the  country.  The  wines  and  olives  of  An- 
dalusia, its  grapes,  and  oranges,  and  fruits  of  all  kinds,  are  the  finest, 
its  horses  and  cattle  are  the  best,  its  bulls  are  the  fiercest  of  all 
Spain.  Its  cities  are  famous  for  their  attractions,  and  its  men  and 
women  for  their  grace  and  beauty.  All  things  take  on  an  air  of 
loveliness  in  this  land  of  warmth  and  glow.  The  Moors  left  a 
deeper  mark  here  than  elsewhere,  for  they  kept  their  beloved  realm 
of   Granada   long   after   they  had   lost   the  rest   of   Spain. 

The  people  of  Andalusia  partake  of  the  lightness  and  joy  of 
their  climate  ;  with  them  all  is  joy,  light,  wit,  dolcc  far  niente.  Life 
is   pleasure ;    they   puff   their    cigarito,   strike    their    guitar,  and    pass 


146 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


their  days  with  song  and  laughter.  Their  manners  are  superb  ;  even 
the  beggars  in  the  street  raise  their  hats  with  courteous  elegance. 
If  the  natural  defects  accompany  this  character  ;  if  they  lie,  and  steal, 
and  are  lazy  and  cowardly,  it  is  a  pity;  the  Homers  were  inclined 
to  see  the  charming  side  of  them,  and  disbelieve  the  other.  They 
are  superstitious,  but  devoted  to  their  religion;  the  churches  are 
frequented    by   devout   and    earnest    worshippers. 


EARLY    SPAIN. 


147 


CHAPTER    XVII. 


EARLY    SPAIN. 


ANDALUSIANS. 


)ERY  early,  the  Moham- 
medans reached  in  Spain 
a  higher  degree  of  civil- 
ization than  in  any  other 
part  of  the  world.  At  its 
outset,  its  successes  were 
brilliant  ;  the  military  spirit  and 
discipline  which  it  established 
among  all  classes  gave  to  the 
nations  who  embraced  it  the 
appearance  of  a  vast,  well-ordered 
camp,  and  the  importance  it 
gave  to  combat  and  conquest  was  peculiarly  well  adapted  to  the 
character  of  the  wild  tribes  among  whom  they  were  preached.  The 
successors  of  Mohammed,  called  Caliphs,  represented  both  his  spiritual 
and  temporal  authority.  It  was  their  duty  to  lead  the  army  in 
battle,  and  on  the  pilgrimage  to  Mecca.  Their  authority  had  all 
the  force  of  divine  sanction,  and  their  ordinances,  however  weak 
or  wicked  they  might  be,  became  laws  which  it  was  sacrilege  to 
disobey. 

Within  a  century  after  the  coming  of  Mohammed,  their  apostle, 
they  had  already  set  up  their  religion  over  vast  regions  in  Asia 
and  on  the  northern  shores  of  Africa,  and  arrived  before  the 
Straits  of  Gibraltar,  ready  for  the  invasion  of  Spain,  led  thither 
by  their  love  of  conquest,  their  long  career  of  victory,  and  the 
rich  spoils  offered  by  the  Gothic  monarchy. 


148 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


After  the  fatal  battle  of  the  Guadalete,  fought  in  the  summer 
of  711,  which  ended  in  the  slaughter  of  King  Roderick  and  the 
flower  of  his  nobility,  the  Goths  never  rallied  under  one  head, 
though  they  made  enough  resistance  in  various  strong  positions  to 
postpone  for  three  years  the  final  conquest.  Their  conquerors  were 
liberal.  Such  Christians  as  chose,  were  permitted  to  remain  in  the 
kingdom     and    worship    in     their     own    way,    and    to     be     governed 

mostly  by  their  own  laws  ;  in  short, 
they  were  much  better  treated  than 
the  Moors  were  afterwards  by  the 
Christians,  when  their  turn  came  to 
have  the  upper  hand 

Having  thus  made  for  themselves 
a  foothold  on  the  Peninsula,  the 
Moors  pressed  farther  forward  into 
Europe,  with  the  ambition  probably 
of  carrying  the  banner  of  the 
prophet  to  the  very  shores  of  the 
Baltic.  True  believers  flocked  to 
the  white  standard  of  the  house  of 
Omeya  from  the  farthest  parts  of 
the  dominions  of  the  Caliphs  ;  and 
the  whole  Mohammedan  world  con- 
templated the  expedition  with  the 
deepest  interest.  But  their  progress  was  checked  by  the  far-famed 
defeat  at  Tours,  in  733,  where  a  combined  army  of  Franks,  Germans, 
and  Belgians  marched  upon  them,  led  by  the  great  Charles  Martel, 
who  here  won  his  title  of  "The  Hammer,"  in  memory  of  the 
blows  he  gave  his  enemies  on  that  occasion.  The  contest  of  that 
day  was  long  and  bloody ;  when  darkness  arrived  it  was  unde- 
cided, and  all  night  the  Christians  remained  in  their  tents  under 
arms.  At  dawn  they  prepared  to  renew  the  struggle  ;  the  white 
tents  of  the  Arabs  extending  far  on  every  side,  were  still  there, 
but  not  a  living  creature  came  out  to  meet  them.  The  enemy 
had   abandoned   their   camp,  and   silently  slipped   away.     Christendom 


ARMS   OK  SEVILLE. 


EARLY  SPAIN. 


149 


was    saved.      The    churches    were    filled    with     people   of    all   ranks, 
thanking  Heaven  for  so  signal  a  victory. 

Thus  cut  off  from  conquest  in  Euorpe,  the  Arabs  began  to 
quarrel  among  themselves,  and  their  overgrown  empire  was  broken 
up.  The  province  of  Spain  was  the  first  to  secede ;  and 
the  Omeya  family  occupied  its  throne  as  independent  princes 
for  three  centuries,  ruling  wisely  and  well.  The  race  of  the 
Omeyades  need  not  shrink  from  a  comparison  with  any  other 
dynasty  of  equal  length  in  modern  Europe.  Their  long  reigns, 
peaceful  deaths,  and  the 
unbroken  line  of  their  suc- 
cession, prove  the  justice  and 
wisdom  of  their  sway.  Their 
princes  of  the  blood  were 
intrusted  to  the  care  of 
learned  men,  to  be  instructed 
in  the  duties  of  reigning ; 
they  were  encouraged  to 
compete  in  the  academies 
of  Cordova  for  the  prizes 
of  poetry  and  eloquence,  and 
frequently  carried  them  off. 

The  splendor  of  this  dyr 
nasty  was  shown  in  their 
palaces,  mosques,  and  hospit- 
als, and  their  admirable 
system  of  irrigation  which 
still  fertilizes  the  south  of 
Spain. 

Their  fountains  and  aque- 
ducts rivalled  those  of  Rome. 


MANOLA. 


These  works  were  scattered  all  over  the  country,  and  devoted  to  the 
adornment  of  Cordova,  their  favorite  residence  and  capital.  The 
wealth  of  the  Mohammedan  princes  of  that  age  was  immense,  and 
their    superiority  in    useful    arts    and    industry    perfectly  well    accounts 


150 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


ANDALUSIAN    SERENADE. 


for  it.     The   sov- 
ereign     had      for 
his     share     one 
fifth  of  the  spoil 
taken     in    battle, 
and  one  tenth  of 
all     the     produce 
of   the   country. 
He    often     en- 
gaged   in   commerce   on    his    own 
account ;   and  mines  belonging  to 
the  crown    brought   to   it  a  large 
income. 

But  the   best   mine  of  the    Ca- 
liphs  was    in    the    industry    and 
sobriety  of    their  subjects.      The 
Moors   introduced    into    Southern 
Spain  various  tropical   plants  and 
vegetables    whose    cultivation    has 
departed    with    them.      The    silk 
manufacture    was    largely    carried 
on  by  them,  and  with  fine  fabrics 
of  cotton    and  woollen,    made   an 
active  commerce  with  the  Levant 
and  Constantinople,  spread 
by   means   of   caravans   all 
over  Europe.   Alhakem  the 
Second     is     a 
good  specimen 
of    a    despotic 
'     sovereign   em- 
ploying    his 
power  to    pro- 
mote the  hap- 
IM  n  e  s  s    and 


■  '     „' 

'       f--- 

;iv. 

I    i'  t-'' 

'{.         ~     ■—.■-■- 

k 

- -        .,    .'"^D.S^';--  . 

1 

b'j^B^ 

--            -3S,.;j" 

EAELY   SPAIN.  151 

intelligence  of  his  race.  In  his  tastes,  love  of  knowledge,  and  munifi- 
cent patronage,  he  was  a  kind  of  Medici  among  the  Moors  ;  he 
encouraged  literature  in  every  way,  and  amassed  for  himself  a  library 
said  to  contain  six  hundred  thousand  volumes.  Writers  swarmed  over 
the  Peninsula  at  this  period ;  not  only  men,  but  women,  devoted 
themselves  to  letters.  Scholars  from  all  parts  of  Europe,  Christian 
as  well  as  Arabic,  came  to  Cordova  ;  for  this  period,  brilliant  for 
the  Mohammedans,  corresponds  with  that  of  the  deepest  barbarism 
of  Europe,  when  a  library  of  three  or  four  hundred  volumes  was  a 
great  thing  for  the  richest  monastery. 

But  this  greatest  prosperity  was  followed  by  sudden  decay. 
Alhakem  died  in  821.  During  the  life  of  his  successor,  the  Empire 
of  the  Omeyades  was  broken  up  into  a  hundred  little  states,  and 
the  magnificent  capital,  Cordova,  dwindled  into  a  second-rate  city. 
Now  was  the  chance  for  those  Spanish  mqnarchs  to  assert  themselves, 
who,  during  all  the  Moorish  period,  had  retained  in  the  North  their 
titles  and  successions  in  a  direct  line  from  Roderick  the  Goth. 
By  the  ninth  century  they  had  reached  the  Douro  and  the  Ebro, 
and  by  the  close  of  the  eleventh,  under  the  victorious  banner  of 
the   Cid,  they  had  advanced  to  the  Tagus. 

With  Hixem  the  Third  (a.  d.  103 i)  ended  the  Caliphate  of  the  West 
and  the  noble  race  of  the  Omeyades.  From  this  period  to  the 
establishment  of  the  kingdom  of  Granada,  there  was  no  supreme 
chief  of  Moorish  Spain.  The  part  of  the  country,  ever  growing 
less,  which  was  free  from  the  approach  of  the  Christian  armies,  was 
governed  by  petty  kings ;  and  by  the  middle  of  the  thirteenth 
century,  its  constantly  contracting  circle  had  shrunk  into  the  narrow 
limits  of  the  province  of  Granada,  where,  however,  on  a  compara- 
tively small  point  of  their  ancient  domain,  the  Moors  erected  a  new 
kingdom  of  sufficient  strength  to  resist  for  more  than  two 
centuries,  the  united  forces  of  the  Spanish  monarchies. 

Meantime,  while  the  Moorish  dynasty  in  Spain  was  rising  to  so 
great  a  height  to  fall  so  low,  Christian  Spain,  for  several  hundred 
years,  had  been  nothing  but  a  collection  of  little  states,  always 
quarrelling   with    each   other.     At    the  close    of  the    fifteenth    century. 


152 


A  F>»MILV  FLIGHT  THROUGH  bPAlN. 


these  various  provinces  were  blended  into  one  great  nation,  under 
one  common  rule,  strong  enough  to  overthrow  its  enemies,  and 
eject  from  the  land  the  race  alien  to  its  religion.  By  this  time, 
the  number  of  states  into  which  the  whole  country  was  divided,  was 
reduced   to    four: — three     Christian,    Castile,    Aragon    and    Navarre, 


FOUNTAIN    IN    THE    ALHAMBRA. 

all   belonging    to  a  common  faith,  though  not    united    in    government, 
and  Grenada,  the  sole  remaining  Moorish   kingdom. 

Aragon  at  that  time  included  Catalonia  and  Valencia ;  to  the 
crown  of  Castile  had  fallen  all  the  other  provinces  except  little 
Navarre,  which,  shut  within    the    Pyrenees,  continued    to    maintain   its 


^y^'viill'if 


t 


m 
ill 


""]i:!ii',jS 


if^ 


BALCONY    IN    SEVILLE. 


'     J  ; ,  = 


t  fc   t      t    c    S    ,*^  c     >-  *^    /  <■   \    c  .  t 


,    EARLY  SPAIN.  I55 

independence   when   the   rest  of  the   smaller   states   in  the    Peninsula 
had  been  absorbed  in  the  dominion  of  either  Castile  or  Aragon. 

Castile,  from  an  early  time,  held  the  first  place  over  all  the 
other  states,  and  when  at  length  they  were  consolidated,  the  capi- 
tal of  Castile  became  the  capital  of  the  new  empire,  and  her  lan- 
guage  the    language    of   the   court,    as   of  literature. 

From  the  beginning  of  this  period,  the  nation  which  had  been 
corrupted  by  the  long  prosperity  of  the  Gothic  reigns,  experienced 
the  salutary  influence  of  adversity.  Entire  reformation  of  luxurious 
habits  was  necessary  when  a  scanty  subsistence  only  could  be 
earned  by  a  life  of  temperance  and  toil.  Thus  grew  up  the  real 
Spaniard,  from  the  stock  of  the  Goth,  but  with  new  qualities  of 
endurance  and  heroism,  a  sober,  hardy,  independent  race,  prepared 
to  demand  its  ancient  inheritance,  and  to  lay  the  foundation  of  a 
better  government  than  that  before  known. 

Their  struggles  with  the  Moors,  and  their  own  discussions,  de- 
layed the  growth  of  this  people ;  but  at  length  their  long  wars 
with  the  Mohammedans  kindled  in  their  hearts  the  dow  of  a 
united  patriotism  ;  their  ardor  for  religion  became  intense,  fed  by 
their    aversion   to   that   of  the   foe. 

Thus  patriotism,  religious  loyalty,  and  a  proud  sense  of  independ- 
ence, founded  upon  knowing  that  they  owed  their  possessions  to 
their  personal  prowess,  became  characteristic  traits  of  the  true 
Spaniards.  The  spirit  of  chivalry  kept  up  by  traditional  ballads 
and  legends,  possessed  in  those  times  Spaniard  and  Moor  alike. 
The  Spanish  knight  became  a  hero  of  romance,  wandering  over  his 
own  land,  and  even  into  farther  climes,  in  quest  of  adventures. 
This  romantic  spirit  lingered  in  Castile  long  after  the  age  of 
chivalry  had  become  extinct  in  other  parts  of  Europe,  until  its 
illusions  of  fancy  were  dispelled  by  the  satire  of  Cervantes,  who 
makes  of  his  hero,  Don  Quixote,  a  burlesque  hidalgo  in  search  of 
adventures,  yet  describes  him  with  so  charming  a  style  that  we 
love  him  while  we  laugh  at  him,  and  do  not  cease  to  reverence 
the  spirit  which  influenced  the  age  of  romance  and  chivalry. 


156  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 


SEVILLA. 


DELIGHTFUL  weather  followed  the  Horners  to  Seville,  and 
justified  their  choice  of  May  and  June  for  travelling  in  Spain. 
Delightful  rooms,  also,  they  had  in  the  Fonda  de  Europa,  in  the 
Calle  Sierpes,  which  means  Serpent  street,  and  well  it  deserves  its 
name,  from  its  winding  course.  They  had  to  descend  from  the 
railway  omnibus  at  the  entrance  to  the  street,  for  it  is  too  narrow 
for  driving,  and  posts  are  put  up  to  prevent  vehicles  from  entering. 
So  they  followed  the  guide  through  the  narrow  street  full  of  foot 
passengers  and  flower-stalls,  to  the  entrance  of  the  hotel,  and  their 
baggage  was  brought  after  them  on  wheelbarrows.  The  hotel  was 
a  rambling  sort  of  place,  a  part  of  which  had  once  been  a  convent  ; 
there  were  convent  stairs  leading  down  by  a  broad  sweep  to  the 
patio,  where  a  fountain  was  playing,  with  gold  fish  in  it,  and  banana 
trees   and   oranges    were   growing. 

The  patio  was  surrounded  by  a  sort  of  arcade,  under  which  little 
tables  and  sofas  were  placed,  where  the  guests  might  have  coffee 
in  the  morning,  or  sip  their  after-dinner  demi-tasse.  The  dining-room 
opened  on  this  patio,  a  long,  low  place  where  thirty  or  forty  people 
breakfasted  and  dined.  The  Horners  enjoyed  this  table  d'hote,  for 
there  every  variety  of  nationality  was  represented,  and  the  talk 
was   always   animated   in   several    different   languages. 

A  very  vivacious  Italian,  who  was  evidently  an  old  stager,  delighted 
in  discussions  upon  the  politics  and  religion  of  Spain,  and  he  was 
equally  ready  in  French,  Spanish  or  German.  English  he  protested 
he  could  not  manage,  and  his  efforts  to  get  on  in  that  language 
with    an    English    lady    who    sometimes     sat     next    him,    were    very 


SEVILLA. 


157 


amusing.  The  food  provided  was  very  good,  and  now  the  Horners 
were  becoming  used  to  a  good  deal  of  oil  in  the  cooking,  and  to 
seeing  the  fish  turn  up  in  the  middle  of  dinner. 

It  seemed  somewhat  odd  now  to  have  Hubert  and  Fanny  domesti- 
cated in  the  bosom  of  the  Horner  family  ;  at  first  there  were  some 
little  hitches  in  the  way  of  discipline,  for  the  English  children, 
both  of  them,  were  a  little  inclined  to  take  their  own  way  about 
what  they  ate  and  where  they  went  ;  but  the  Horner  rule  was  so 
light  that  they  soon  yielded  to  the  gentle  sway  of  Miss  Lejeune,  and 
the  controlling  glance  of  Mr.   Horner. 

"Not  a  third   orange,    I    think,  Fanny,"    Miss  Augusta   had  to   say 


DESERTED  SQUARE. 

once,  and  Fanny  put  down  the  one  she  was  taking  from  the  dish  with 
a  start,  surprised  that  her  doing  so  had  been  observed.  The  other 
children  considered  Fanny  to  be  rather  greedy,  and  probably  she  did 
eat  too  much,  for  she  looked  thin  and  pale,  and  suffered  from 
indigestion  sometimes,  a  thing  -unknown  to  the  healthy  Horners. 
Their  rooms  overlooked  the  patio,  and  across  the  tops  of  banana- 
trees  and  the  blue  striped  awnings  below,  to  a  kind  of  terrace  with 
a   carved    raiUng    on    which    stood    plaster   busts    at    intervals,    rather 


168  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN". 

the  worse  for  wear,  and  flower  pots  set  between  them  full  of  bright 
geraniums  and  other  gay  flowers.  Upon  this  terrace  the  senoras 
came  and  went,  who  did  the  washing  on  top  of  the  house.  Spanish 
politeness  calls  every  maid  and  washerwoman  a  senora.  There 
were  two  delightful  old  hags  who  performed  this  function  at  the 
Fonda  de  Europa,  and  the  children  became  very  intimate  with  them  ; 
for  this  roof,  reached  by  a  long  flight  of  shaky  steps  irom  the 
terrace,  was  their  favorite  resort.  It  was  a  series  of  flat  roofs 
rather  than  one,  and  a  little  house  was  built  up  on  it  for  washing 
purposes.  While  Miss  Lejeune  was  sketching  there,  taking  advan- 
tage of  the  shade  furnished  by  this  little  hut,  the  senoras  stood 
at  their  tubs  scrubbing  the  clothes,  and  chattering  and  laughing  in 
the  liveliest  Castilian.  The  younger  of  them  appeared  to  be  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  years  old  :  but  was  probably  less,  for 
women  of  that  class  begin  to  look  old  early  in  Spain,  as  in  the  East. 

The  sefioras  were  very  friendly  with  the  boys,  and  encouraged 
their  acquaintance  with  a  dark  little  Spaniard,  the  son  of  the  pro- 
prietor. He  had  a  kite  like  many  other  Seville  boys,  who  were  to 
be  seen  tending  these  broad  square  playthings  on  other  roofs. 
The  kites  soared  about  above  the  spires  and  domes  of  Seville,  and 
stood  out  dark  against  the  glowing  sky  where  the  picturesque 
Giralda  rose  not  far  off". 

Much  as  they  liked  their  hotel,  the  top  of  it  was  their  favorite 
part ;  and,  after  a  day  of  sight-seeing,  they  often  climbed  to  the 
roof  and  sat  leaning  against  strong  parapets  which  offered  them- 
selves most  conveniently  for  their  backs,  resting  and  rejoicing  in 
the  lovely  Andalusian  atmosphere. 

They  settled  themselves  for  a  week  or  more  in  Seville,  tired  with 
the  hurry  of  Cordova,  and  the  crowded  impressions  of  the  brief 
stay  at  Toledo.  The  weather  was  still  so  fresh  and  cool  that  they 
felt  safe  on  that  score,  and  Seville  was  one  of  the  places  which 
they  had  promised  themselves  to  thoroughly  explore. 

So  every  one  was  permitted  to  take  out  from  trunks  and  boxes 
the  little  luxuries  of  life  ;  and  before  the  first  day  was  over,  their 
large   and    pleasant   salon    was   littered   with    everything   which    could 


SEVILLA. 


159 


make  it  seem  homelike.  A  large  round  table  in  the  middle  of  the 
room  was  heaped  with  guide-books,  novels,  dictionaries  and  writing 
materials  ;  the  blotting-cases  of  each  member  of  the  party  foimd 
a    place    there,    with     sketching-    blocks     and     paint    boxes.     A   huge 


CATHEDRAL    GATE. 


mafiola,  ten  inches  across  or  more,  which  Bessie  had  bought,  a  bud, 
at  the  flower-stall  in  Serpent  street,  spread  itself  over  the  tumbler 
it    stood    m,   and    filled    the    room    with     its    fragrance.       The    great 


160 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


GIRALDA. 


bouquets  given  them  by  their  kind  Gefe  at  Cordova,  adorned  the 
room,  still  fresh,  for  a  day,  after  which  they  were  given  to  the 
senoras  to  throw  away  ;  but  these  aged  crones,  choosing  each  a 
brisfht,  though  somewhat  faded,  carnation,  stuck  these  flowers  in  their 
hair   with   true  Andalusian  coquetry.     How  they  laughed  and  wagged 

their  old  heads  when  Bessie  praised  them. 
"  Oh !  would  it  not  be  nice,"  exclaimed 
Bessie,  as  they  came  back  to  their  room 
after  almuerzo,  "  if  we  had  not  to  go  out 
and  see  sights.  I  like  this  room  just  as 
well  as  all  the  rest  of  Seville.  I  believe  I 
will  stay  here  all  the  time,  and  look  across 
the  patio  and  merely  go  up  on  the  roof 
occasionally." 

She  was   stretching    her   feet  out   comfort- 
ably  before  her,   having   thrown    herself    into 
a  remarkably  easy  chair,  with  her  hands  clasped  over  her  head. 

"Very  well,  my  dear,"  said  her  father.  "Do  as  you  like.  We 
will  tell  you  all  about  it  when  we  come  back.  But  as  Juan  is 
waiting  for  us  below,  those  who  intend  to  do  the  Alcazar  to-day 
mu^t  be  ready  soon." 

"Does  Nana  know  we  are  going  out,  Fanny.?"  asked  Miss  Lejeune 
of  the  little  girl  who  was  leaning  over  the  railing  of  the  wide  window, 
looking  down  at  the  paroquets  and  other  birds  in  the  court  below. 

"She's  down  there  with  baby,"  said  Fanny,  calling  "Nana!  Nana! 
come  up  and  dress  me  to  go  out ! " 

"Well,  I  may  as  well  exert  myself,"  said  Bessie,  who  was  the 
last  to  be  left  behind  on  any  occasion.     "Where  are  my  boots?" 

As  often  in  Spanish  hotels,  two  dark  bedrooms,  side  by  side, 
opened  by  glass  doors  upon  the  salon.  It  is  not  a  bad  arrange- 
ment, as  it  shuts  out  bedroom  characteristics  during  the  day,  and 
at  night  the  doors  can  be  thrown  open  for  ventilation;  but  the 
want  of  light  in  these  places  makes  the  whereabouts  of  boots,  hats. 
and  gloves,  somewhat  doubtful,  except  to  the  most  methodical.  Thus 
it  was  some  time  before  the  party  could  be  o-ot  too-ether. 


SEVILLA. 


161 


"Now  where  are  the  boys?"  asked  Mr.  Horner,  returning  from 
his  room  which  was  on  the  other  side  of  the  corridor,  lookins:  on 
a  mysterious  den  where  turkeys  were  kept,  and  hens  and  chickens, 
and  where  great  rats  shared  the  food  of  these  fowls. 

"Were  they  not  with  you,  papa.?"  asked  Bessie. 

"No;    I  have  not  seen  them  since  breakfast." 

"  I  will  go  up  on  the  roof  and  look  for  them,"  suggested  Fanny. 

"No;    because   then   you  will    be    lost!"    said    Mr.  Horner,  with  a 
little    impatience.        "Did    not    they 
know  we  were  going  out .-' " 

"Oh,  yes,  papa !  I  dare  say  they 
are  down  at  the  door  with  Juan 
already." 

And  so  it  proved  ;  only  that  when 
they  arrived  at  the  door,  although 
the  two  boys  were  there,  Juan,  tired 
of  waiting  —  it  was  now  an  hour 
after  the  time  appointed  for  him  — 
had  "just  stepped  round  a  corner 
for  a  moment." 

Calle  Sierpes  is  all  corners  ;  so  it 
was  difficult  to  follow  the  guide,  A 
servant  of  the  hotel  being  sum- 
moned, hunted  him  up  after  a  further 
delay  of  about  five  minutes,  and 
then  the  party  was  under  way, 
crossing  the  sunny  plaza,  almost 
deserted   at  this  hot  time  of  day. 

"It  is  so  hot  and  so  sunny," 
said  Miss  Lejeune,  "do  not  you 
think  we  had  better  postpone  the 
gardens  of  the  Alcazar  ? "  she  asked,  after  a  little  pause. 

Juan   pronounced   that   early   morning  would    be   a   better  time   for 
that. 

"Then   let   us   simply   take    a    turn    through    the    Cathedral,"    said 


GIRALDILLA. 


162 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIX. 


Mr.  Horner ;  "  we  can,  too,  if  we  like,  climb  to  the  top  of  the 
Giralda." 

"  Do  not  count  me  for  going  up  things ! "  cried  Miss  Lejeune, 
shaking  her  head. 

"  Aunt  Dut,  they  say  this  is  very  easy,"  said  Bessie ;  "  it  is  made 
for  horses  ;  you  can  do  it  perfectly  well." 

"  Are  you  sure  it  was  not  made  for  donkeys,  my  dear  ? "  demanded 
Miss  Augusta. 

They  had  now  reached  the  square  of  the  Cathedral,  and  the 
pretty  tower  of  the  Giralda,  which  serves  as  its  campanile,  was 
before  them. 

Il  IS  called  La  Giralda,  from  the  revolving  weathercock  on  top ; 
a  bronze  figure  representing  Faith,  called  la  Giraldilla.  It  is  a 
vestige  of  the  mosque  which  once  stood  where  the  Cathedral  is 
now,  and  was  built  as  a  muezzin  tower.  The  warm  rose-color  of 
the  brick  of  which  it  is  built,  combined  with  white  stone,  and  inlaid 
tiles  of  green,  gives  a  light  Oriental  effect  which  is  very  charming. 

"  Tommy,"  said  his  father,  "  it  is  said  that  this  was  built  by  the 
man  who  invented  algebra,  which  was  named  after  him,  for  his 
name  was  Geber." 

"  I  wish  he  had  never  invented  it,"  growled   Tommy. 


Vi-_,''»— ' 


ANOTHER  CATHEUIIAL.  163 


CHAPTER    XTX. 


ANOTHER     CATHEDRAL, 


WHEN  the  chapter  began  the  present  cathedral  in  1402,  they 
decided  to  erect  a  church  so  large  and  beautiful,  "  that 
coming  ages  will  say  we  were  mad  to  attempt  it."  The  last  stone 
was  laid  m   1508,  a  century  having  been  devoted  to  the  task. 

There  are  different  styles  m  different  parts,  but  the  main  body 
inside  is  strictly  Gothic.  All  the  styles  and  all  the  arts  have  com- 
bined to  produce  here  their  first  effects.  The  Moorish  Giralda,  the 
Grseco-Roman  exterior,  give  variety  and  prepare  the  eye  for  the 
beautiful  Gothic  arches  within,  where  the  paintings  are  by  some 
of  the  greatest  masters,  the  stained  glass  among  the  finest  speci- 
mens known,  the  sculpture  beautiful,  and  the  jewelers  and  silver- 
smiths' work  is  rare  and  unrivalled. 

The  first  impression  on  entering  is  one  of  awe  and  reverence. 
There  is  a  sublimity  in  the  sombre  masses  and  clusters  of  spires, 
whose  proportions  and  details  are  somewhat  lost  in  great  shadows 
which  pervade  the  place,  among  the  lofty  naves  and  countless  gilt 
altars.  Vast  proportions,  unity  of  design,  severity  and  simplicity  of 
ornament,  give  the  Cathedral  at  Seville  a  place  among  works  of 
real  genius  in  architecture. 

This  huge  square  building  is  on  a  platform  with  a  broad  paved 
terrace  running  all  around,  ascended  by  steps.  The  pillars  belong 
to  Roman  temples  and  :he  old  mosque.  There  are  nine  entrances 
of  different  styles  and  periods.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  is  the 
Puerta  del  Lagarto,  so  called  from  the  crocodile  placed  there.  This 
was  sent  to  Saint  Ferdinand  by  the  Sultan  of  Egypt,  amongst  other 
curious    animals,  many   of  which    died    on    the   way,  and   were   stuffed 


164 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


and  placed  in  the  cloisters.  The  Puerta  del  Pardon  leads  to  the 
Court  of  Oranges.  Its  high  horseshoe  arch  and  its  bronze  doors 
are  Moorish,  built  as  early  as  340  a.  d. 

The   Court    of    Oranges    is  a    huge  paved    patio,    with   a    fountain 


INTERIOR   OF  CATHEDRAL. 


in  the  middle ;  here  are  seen  the  projecting  sides  of  the  transept, 
and  the  airy,  flying  buttresses  springing  from  one  nave  to  another, 
with   open-work,  richly   decorated   pinnacles,  little    pillars   and   domes 


ANOTHER  CATHEDRAL. 


166 


full  of  variety,  movement, 
and  beauty. 

Within,  there  are  nine 
naves,  aisles  supported  by 
graceful  pillars  surmounted 
by  Gothic  arches.  Like 
the  Cordova  mosque,  it 
seems  a  forest,  but  a  differ- 
ent one.  This  might  be  a 
grove  of  stately  maples, 
while  that  suggests  a  wood 
of  sturdy  pine-trees.  The 
choir,  as  usual  in  Spanish 
churches,  blocks  up  the 
central  portion ;  but  there 
is  so  much  space  around 
it  that  it  seems  but  a  detail, 
for  there  are  so  many  long 
vistas  unencumbered  by 
any  obstacle  from  one  end 
of  the  church  to  the  other. 

The  first  dome  of  the 
Cathedral  fell  in  the  night, 
December,  15  ii.  Great 
was  the  consternation  at 
the  news  ;  and  every  town 
sent  its  own  architect  to 
repair  the  misfortune  ;  to 
him  of  Salamanca  was 
given  the  glory  of  replac- 
ing it,  and  thus  completing 
the  Cathedral  as  it  now 
stands. 

The  chapels  are  full  of 
sculptures    and    paintings 


71     N 

-J 


PUERTA    DEL   PARDON. 


166 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


enough  to  tire  the  eye 
Over  the  altar  in  one 
picture  of  the  Descent 


.,?i^,^.. ,    ,«, 


U'i 


\  ' 


HOLY   MOTHER. 


is  separated  from  the 
is  itself  dark,  while  a 
Saint    is   kneeling   and 


and  brain  before  the  round  has  half  been  made. 

of   the  Chapels  there  is    a  mysterious  solemn 

from  the  Cross,  ascribed  to  a  pupil  of  Michael 

Angelo.     It  is  said  that  Murillo  liked 

this  picture  so  much  that  he  desired 

,  to   be  buried  before  it.     He  used  to 

stand   for  hours  looking   at    it  ;    and 

he   once    rephed    to    some   one    who 

asked  what  he  was  doing : 

"  I  am  waiting  till  those  holy  men 
have  taken  down  our  Lord." 

His  own  works  adorn  the  chapels 
of  the  Cathedral,  and  nowhere  in  the 
world  do  they  give  so  fine  an  effect, 
as  here  among  the  solemn  influences 
and  grave  shadows  of  the  consecrated 
pile. 

The  Conception,  by  Murillo,  in 
the  Chapter  House,  Miss  Lejeune 
considered  the  most  beautiful  and 
wonderful  of  his  works  ;  it  is  placed 
nobly,  hung  high  above  the  ground, 
and  surrounded  by  a  profusion  of 
delicate  carvings.  The  Virgin's  ex- 
pression is  exquisite,  the  coloring 
perfect. 

One    of    the    chapels     contains    a 
picture   with    a   peculiar   and    excep- 
tional interest.     It  is  one  of  Murillo's 
grandest  paintings,  called  St.  Anthony 
of  Padua.     It  is  very  large,  and  fills 
an   immense  space  on  the   wall,  and 
spectator  by  the    railing  of  the  chapel,    which 
strong  side   light  falls  upon    the    picture.     The 
stretching   his  arms  toward  the   vision    of  the 


ANOTHER  CATHEDRAL. 


167 


infant  Jesus,  who  descends  toward  him  amid  cherubs,  and  flowers, 
and  sunbeams.  Below  this  bright  group  of  immortals,  is  seen  through 
a  vista  the  cloister  of  the  convent,  dark  and  solemn  by  contrast  with 
the  radiance  above.  The  figure  of  the  Saint  occupies  about  one 
quarter  of  the  canvas,  which,  seen  from  the  first,  appears  harmonious 
and  perfect ;  but  a  close  examination  from  the  side  shows  that  it 
has  been  joined  and  patched,  and  that  the  place  occupied  by  the 
principal  figure  must  have  been  at  one  time  empty.  This  is  the 
painting,  which,  by  a  bold  theft,  was  deprived  of  its  most  important 
part. 

One  morning  when  the    custodian  of  that  portion  of  the  Cathedral 
came  to  it,   Saint  Anthony   was   gone  ;   actually   cut  out  of  the   can- 


SEVILLE  HOUSETOPS. 


vas,  whose  ragged  edges  revealed  a  barren  space.  The  excitement 
was  intense,  not  only  in  the  Cathedral,  but  all  over  Spain;  in  fact, 
all  over  the  world  which  recognizes  the  value  of  Murillo's  work,  and 
the  daring  of  such  an  attempt  to  convert  it  into  money.  Before 
very  long  the  canvas  bearing  the  Saint  was  presented  at  the  New 
York  Custom    House.     It  was    strictly  detained  there,  and  afterwards 


168  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

returned  to  its  proper  owners.  Saint  Anthony  has  been  restored 
to  his  place  in  the  picture ;  the  edges  are  so  carefully  joined  that 
it  cannot  be  considered  injured ;  and  so  his  unexpected  journey  to 
America  and  back,  lends  a  new  interest  to  the  principal  figure. 

The  Homers  could  not  begin  to  see  all  the  wonders  of  painting, 
carving,  and  gilding,  at  one  visit  to  the  Cathedral.  Fanny  was 
soon  tired,  and  pleaded  to  be  left  to  rest  on  a  bench  near  one  of 
the  chapels.      The  others  soon  joined  her,  and  Bessie  said  joyfully  : 

"Come,  Fanny,  are  you  rested  now.?  We  are  all  going  to  the 
top  of  the  Giralda." 

Mr.  Horner  and  Miss  Lejeune  followed,  coming  away  thoughtfully 
from  the  study  of  Zurbaran's  pictures  in  a  dark  chapel.  The  boys 
were   hunted    up,    and    they   all    came   forth   into    the   bright  sunlight. 

"  I  think  the  way  will  be,"  said  Miss  Lejeune,  "  to  do  the  interior 
in  bits.  As  we  are  to  be  here  so  long,  it  will  be  lovely  to  drop 
in  quietly  and  look  at  the  pictures  and  different  chapels." 

They  all  agreed  that  this  was  the  best  plan,  and  when  Bessie 
set  herself,  in  the  evening,  to  read  the  description  in  the  guide- 
books, she  found  mentioned  tombs  of  kings,  and  sceptres  of  mon- 
archs,  and  figures  of  saints  which  they  had  seen  nothing  of 

As  it  happened,  however,  the  time  in  Seville  flew  by  so  fast, 
and  was  so  divided  between  sight-seeing  and  sweet  repose  upon 
their  roof  or  in  their  convent-patio,  that  there  were  but  one  or  two 
hurried  visits  to  the  Cathedral. 

Miss  Lejeune  found  the  ascent  of  the  tower  easy  enough,  even 
for  her.  The  steps  are  very  low  and  flat,  so  that  it  is  like  moving 
up  an  inclined  plane,  turning  at  each  of  the  four  corners  of  the 
square  tower.  From  the  windows  of  the  gradual  ascent,  the  but- 
tresses and  light  crenelations  of  the  cathedral  wall  were  seen  in 
detail.  At  the  top  a  wonderful  view  burst  upon  them.  The 
crowded,  narrow  streets,  and  tiled  roofs  of  Seville  were  at  their 
feet.  They  could  trace  their  way  to  the  square  near  Serpent  street, 
and  recognize  the  location  of  their  hotel  by  a  great  Churrigueresque 
church  near  it,  which  formed  the  attractive  foreground  of  their  view 
from  the  hotel  roof. 


ANOTHER  CATHEDRAL. 


169 


TORKE    UEL   OR(J. 


The    later  archi- 
tecture    of    Spain, 
beginning  with  that 
of      the     sixteenth 
century,    is    gener- 
ally  denounced    as 
in     the    decline    of 
art,  an   overloaded, 
highly-colored  style, 
combined  with  fan- 
tastic   shapes    and 
ornaments.  To  give 
color,  even   on  the 
o  u  t  s  i  d  e  of  roofs, 
domes    and    spires, 
glazed    tiles,    called 
azulejos,  of  blue,  red 
and  yellow  are  free- 
ly    used,    whose 
glancing    surfaces 
reflect  the  light  like 
glass.   Churriguera, 
an  architect  of  the 
seventeenth      cent- 
ury, used  this  style 
and  made  it  general, 
and  his  name,  which 
is    given    to    it,    is 
considered  the  syn- 
onym of  bad  taste. 
But  in  spite  of  the 
bizarre    forms    and 
bright    tints    of    it, 
Bessie     and      Miss 
Lejeune  both  dared 


170 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


to  admire  it  with  them,  it  was  equivalent  to  praise  when  they 
exclaimed  : 

"  Churrigueresque !  "  misapplying  the  name,  very  likely,  to  anything 
they  liked  of  a  florid  style. 

They  lOoked  from  the  Giralda  across  the  Guadalquivir  to  the 
broad  stretching  country  beyond,  and  below  them,  on  its  bank,  they 
saw  the  Torre  del  Oro,  or  Tower  of  Gold,  so  called  from  the  orange 
azulejos  which  once  gave  it  the  appearance  of  a  brazen  or  gilt  tower. 


GARDENS  OF  THE  ALCAZAR. 

It  has,  moreover,  been  used  by  Moors  and  Christians  as  a  treasure 
house,  and  they  were  told  that  in  the  time  of  Columbus,  the  gold 
he  brought  from  the  New  World  was  deposited  here. 

They  looked  across  the  square  and  down  upon  the  formal  gardens 
of  the  Alcazar,  which  they  were  impatient  to  visit,  and  the  long  gallery 
running  along  one  side,  now  decayed  and  impassable,  but  once  the 
place  of  many  gay  and  brilliant  scenes. 

"  Oh !  let  us  go  to  the  Alcazar  to-morrow  I "  cried  Bessie,  and 
all    the    children    longed    to    be    running    about   in   the    stiff   alleys  set 


ANOTHER  CATHEDRAL. 


17/ 


with  box  and  cypress-trees,  with  here  and  tl>ere  a  tall  pahn,  which 
they  saw  below  them. 

"But  the  picture  gallery!"  exclaimed  Miss  Lejeune  ;  "we  must 
not  leave  Murillo  any  longer." 

"You  saw  Murillo  enough,  aunt  Dut,"  said  Tommy,  "to-day  in 
the  Cathedral." 

"Only  enough  to    make  me  thirst  for  more,"  said  Miss  Lejeune. 

"There  is  plenty  of  time,"  said  Mr.  Horner;  "we  might"  — 
"  divide,"  he  was  about  to  say,  when  all  the  great  bells  of  the 
Giralda,  close  above  their  heads,  began  to  ring  at  once  with  a  tremen- 
dous clangor.  They  fled  in  haste,  and  the  only  question  was,  which 
should  first  reach  the  bottom. 


N^ 


^'■^«: 


;'njir    €^ 


172  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER   XX. 

JUSTA    AND     RUFINA. 

DURING  Roman  rule,  Seville  was  a  magnificent  and  prosperous 
city,  as  the  vestiges  of  many  splendid  monuments  still  show. 
Julius  Caesar  entered  the  city  in  August,  45  b.  c.  Seville  was 
the  centre  of  a  sort  of  pagan  worship,  and  the  only  city  in  the 
Western  world  where  there  were  temples  to  Venus,  whose  effigy 
used  to  be  borne  through  the  city,  in  procession  on  the  shoulders 
of  the  noblest  ladies.  As  this  imposing  statue  was  one  day  being 
carried  along  the  streets,  two  Christian  sisters,  Justa  and  Rufina, 
who  were  selling  earthenware  jugs,  refused  to  do  reverence  to  the 
idol  as  it  passed ;  upon  which  the  bearers  dropped  it  right  in  the 
middle  of  their  pots  and  pans,  and  instantly  determined  upon  the 
death  of  the  girls.  Thus  they  became  martyrs,  and  the  patron 
saints  of  Seville,  and  are  so  represented.  Murillo  has  painted  a 
charming  picture  of  them,  surrounded  by  their  earthenware,  and 
holding  the  Giralda  between  them. 

Afterwards  the  Goths  made  Seville  their  court  and  capital, 
until  they  gave  this  distinction  to  Toledo,  as  we  have  seen.  After 
the  battle  of  the  Guadalete,  and  the  rout  of  the  Goths,  Seville  kept 
out  the  Moors  during  a  month's  siege,  but  yielded  at  last  ;  and 
Abdul-Azis,  who  ruled  over  it  for  some  time,  married  the  widow  of 
Roderick. 

The  family  who  held  the  splendid  Caliphate  of  Cordova,  con- 
trolled Seville  until  they  fell  a  prey  to  the  feuds  which  divided 
the  powerful  and  alternately  successful  tribes  of  Almohades  and 
Almoravides.  Meanwhile  Seville  was  prosperous,  and,  next  to  Cor- 
dova, the   most  important  city  in  Spain. 


JUSTA  AND  RUFINA.  178 

The  treason  of  rival  Moorish  races,  and  the  petty  jealousies  of 
their  rulers,  were  paving  the  way  gradually  for  the  Christians.  King 
Ferdinand,  the  Saint,  in  1247,  ^^  the  head  of  the  flower  and  nobility 
of  Castile  and  Leon,  laid  siege  to  the  city,  and  the  Christians 
entered  it,  after  fifteen  months'  resistance,  in   1248. 

In  the  Royal  Chapel  of  the  Cathedral,  the  lower  part  of  the 
altar  is  formed  by  a  silver  glazed  receptacle  containing  the  almost 
perfect  body  of  Saint  Ferdinand.  It  is  displayed  twice  a  year,  with 
the  ceremony  of  military  mass,  etc.  The  king  is  dressed  in  his  royal 
robes,  with  the  crown  upon  his  head  ;  his  hands  are  crossed  upon 
his  breast.  Upon  his  right  and  left  are  the  sword  and  sceptre 
which    he   bore. 

It  is  said  that  upon  the  usurpation  of  the  Christians,  a  popula- 
tion of  four  hundred  thousand  Moors,  Jews  and  Arabs  abandoned 
the  city.  Some  of  these  settled  in  the  neighboring  towns,  but  the 
greater   number   hastenea   to   the   new   kingdom    of  Granada. 

By  this  time,  the  Spaniards,  once  but  a  little  band  driven  by  the 
Goths  to  the  mountains,  had  grown  to  be  a  powerful  and  united 
nation.  The  separate  provinces  had  either  given  over  their  mutual 
quarrels,  or  yielded  to  the  superior  force  of  the  strongest  among 
them.  Leon  and  Castile  were  united  under  one  head.  Ferdinand 
the  Third  was  lord  of  Spain  from  the  Bay  of  Biscay  to  the  Guadalquivir, 
and  from  Portugal  to  Valencia.  At  that  time  the  Christian  kings 
were  at  peace  for  the  moment.  Ferdinand  had  suppressed  conspir- 
acies, and  subdued  all  rivals  to  the  throne,  of  whom  the  chief  was 
his  own  father.  The  crusade  against  the  Mohammedans  was  pub- 
lished by  the  archbishop,  and  the  same  indulgences  granted  to  those 
who  assumed  the  cross  in  Spain,  as  to  those  who  visited  the  Holy 
Land.  Toledo  and  Cordova  first  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Christians, 
and   then    came   the   turn   of  Seville. 

This  conquest  was  the  last  achievement  of  Ferdinand.  He  died 
in  Seville  four  years  after  its  surrender.  He  was  a  just  and  able 
ruler,  and  a  valiant  soldier,  but  cruel  and  bigoted,  like  the  rest  of 
the  kings  of  his  time,  setting  fire  with  his  own  hands  to  the  fagots 
for   burning  heretics.     Nevertheless,    it   was    probably   for   such    acts, 


174 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


rather  than  for  his  pray- 
ers, fastings,  and  frequent 
disciplines,  that  he  was 
canonized  several  centuries 
after   by  the   Pope. 

Seville  now  became  the 
court  of  the  Christian 
kings.  It  was  Alphonso, 
the  son  of  Ferdinand,  who 
gave  to  the  city  its  badge 
which  is  still  seen  on 
many  buildings,  carved  into 
the  stone-work.  The  fig- 
ure in  the  centre  rep- 
resents a  hank  or  skein, 
called  in  Spanish  viadcja, 
so    that   the  whole   reads : 

NO   m'ha   deja-do. 


FOUNTAIN    IN    TIIK    ALCAZAR. 


which  means,  "she  has 
not  deserted  me."  King 
Don  Pedro  the  Cruel,  who 
held  court  in  Seville  about 
a  century  after  Saint  Fer- 
dinand, had  left  there 
many  traditions  of  his 
bloody  tyranny.  From 
his  accession  to  the  throne 
at  sixteen,  one  murder 
quickly  followed  another  ; 
he  killed  every  one  who 
interfered  with  his  pleas- 
ures, and  shut  up  his  queen 
in    a    fortress,    where    she 


JUbTA  AND  KUFINA. 


17d 


was  poisoned,  or  killed,  by  his  orders.  This  unfortunate  queen  was 
Blanche  of  Bourbon,  of  the  house  which  has  since  furnished  many 
kings  to  France.  Her  great-aunt  had  married  half  a  century  before, 
the   sixth    son    of    King    Louis    the    Ninth    of  France.     Fair   Blanche 


MOORISH    ARCHES,    ALCAZAR. 


was  summoned  from  distant  Bourbonnais  to  be  the  bride  of  the 
king,  Don  Pedro,  Seville ;  but  he  only  married  her  for  political 
reasons.     He  scarcely  looked    at    her,    and  after  forty-eight   hours,    he 


176 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIK 


went  away,  and  perhaps  she  never  saw  him  again.  He  kept  her 
shut  up  in  a  convent  and  in  prison,  and  when  she  died,  it  was  under 
great  suspicion  of  poison  or  dagger. 

Such  conduct  brought  him  into  difficulty.  His  cruel  treatment 
of  his  queen,  and  of  his  half-brothers,  caused  revolt  and  insurrections, 
but  he  lived  with  his  favorite  Maria  de  Padilla  in  great  splendor 
and   luxury   in   the   Alcazar   until   the    time  of   his    destruction    came. 


SlfWIP! 


LA   SALA   DES   E,MI;AJAI)IJRI:s,  ai.cazak. 

At  last  Don  Enrique  of  Trastamara,  his  half-brother,  returned  sud- 
denly to  Spain  with  a  strong  band  of  French  adherents,  and  drove 
Pedro  out  of  his  kingdom.  The  general  voice  was  in  favor  of 
Henry,  and  he  took  possession  of  the  throne.  After  such  cruelty 
to  Queen  Blanche,  Don  Pedro  could  not  hope  for  aid  from  France, 
but  Edward  the  Black  Prince,  who  was  then  in  Gascony,  took  up 
his  cause. 

"  Wasn't  that  strange ! "  exclaimed  Bessie,  when  she  was  telling 
these   things   to   the   boys,    whom    she    had    succeeded   in    securing  as 


JUSTA  AND  RUFINA.  177 

listeners.  They  were  all  sitting  in  a  row  on  the  roof  of  the  Fonda 
de  Europa,  with  their  backs  against  a  chimney,  watching  swallows 
and  kites  soaring  about  the  rosy  shaft  of  the  Giralda,  which  stood 
out    warm    and   dark  against  a  glowing  sunlight. 

"  Our  splendid  bold  Black  Prince  joining  with  that  hateful  mur- 
derous Don  Pedro  the  Cruel  I " 

"  I  know  about  the    Black  Prince,"  said  Hubert,  "  he  was  English." 
"Of    course,"    said    Bessie    loftily,    "but  he    had   great    possessions 
in    France,    and   if  you    English    had    kept  up    his  prowess  you  would 
not   have    lost   them    all  ! " 

Hubert  looked  as  if  he  was  sorry,  but  could  not  very  well  help 
it ;  but  Tommy  put  in :  , 

"  Well,  tell  more  about  Don  Pedro  ;    I  rather  like  him." 
With    the    splendid    army  of  the   Black    Prince    to  help  him,  Pedro 
totally   defeated    Enrique  ;    but  when  the    Black    Prince    had  gone   off, 
Enrique    returned    and    finally    triumphed.     Pedro    was    captured,    and 
confronted  with  his  brother ;    a  struggle  ensued  between    them. 

Henry  and  King  Pedro  clasphig, 

Hold  in  straining  arms  each  other ; 
Tugging  hard  and  closely  grasping, 

Brother  proves  his  strength  with  brother. 

All  the  knights  held  back  and  watched  the  struggle,  till  one  of 
Enrique's  followers,  seeing  his  master  overthrown,  seized  Pedro  by 
the  leg,  which  gave  his  opponent  the  upper  hand,  and  he  stabbed 
the   king   to   the    heart. 

This  is  described  by  Froissart,  and  also  in  the  ballad  just  quoted, 
which  was  translated  by  Sir  Walter  Scott  for  Lockhart's  Spanish 
ballads. 

No  one  was  left  to  lament  King  Pedro  but  his  once  proud  favorite, 
Maria  de  Padilla. 

The  utter  coldness  of  neglect  that  haughty  spirit  stings, 

As  if  a  thousand  fiends  were  there,  with  all  their  flapping  wings. 

She  wraps  the  veil  about  her  head,  as  if  t'were  all  a  dream. 

The  love,  the  murder  .and  the  wrath,  and  that  rebellious  scream. 


178  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

For  still  there's  shouting  on  the  plain,  and  spurring  far  and  nigh, 
"God  save  the  King  —  amen  !  amen  !  —  King  Henry  ! ''  is  the  cry, 
While  Pedro  all  alone  is  left  upon  his  bloody  bier, 
Not  one  remains  to  cry  to  God,  "  Our  Lord  lies  murdered  here  !  " 

The  next  day,  in  consequence  of  Bessie's  tales  from  Froissart, 
and  quotations  from  the  Spanish  ballads,  the  boys  were  in  a  great 
hurry  to  visit  the  Alcazar.  They  made  an  early  start  after  coffee, 
to  avail  themselves  of  the  freshness  of  the  morning. 

It  is  a  portion  of  a  Moorish  palace,  and  its  style  is  purely 
Moorish,  with  beautiful  horseshoe  arches,  and  surfaces  adorned  with 
arabesque  work.  The  grand  facades  glitter  with  gold  and  vivid  colors, 
and  the  pillars  are  of  precious  marbles.  Much  of  this  lovely  work 
had  been  almost  concealed  by  whitewash,  but  this  has  recently  been 
taken  off,  and  the  Alcazar  repaired,  at  the  expense  of  the  Duke  of 
Montpensier. 

In  the  splendid  Hall  of  Ambassadors,  there  is  a  series  of  portraits 
of  the  kings  of  Spain  from  Chindasvinthus  to  Philip  the  Third. 
The  next  room  is  the  one  where  Pedro  caused  another  half-brother, 
Don  Fadrique,  who  had  been  invited  by  him  to  come  to  a  tourna- 
ment, to  be  murdered.  Stains  of  blood  on  the  marble  pavement 
are  still  shown  to  the  traveller,  but  the  Homers  had  learned  not 
to  shudder  at  such  marks,  not  likely  to  be  anything  but  iron-rust. 
But  they  did  shudder  at  the  story,  and  at  the  strange  poem,  one 
of  Lockhart's  Spanish  ballads,  which  makes  the  unfortunate  Fadrique 
in  the  beginning  tell  his  own  story,  until  the  order  for  his  execu- 
tion  is    pronounced,    when   the   sequel    is    given    in    another   voice. 

The  party  after  seeing  all  the  rooms  of  the  palace,  scattered  them- 
selves about  the  stiff,  but  charming,  alleys  of  the  large  gar- 
den, which  gave  them  infinite  pleasure.  Pomegranates,  roses  and 
jasmine  were  all  in  blossom,  hedges  of  box  and  ivy  of  great  size 
testified  to  their  long  growth,  as  well  as  the  large  palms  and  yew- 
trees.  Stiff  rows  of  myrtles  and  orange-trees  stood  in  green  boxes 
along  the  walks,  and  made  pretty  vistas,  adorned  with  trickling 
fountains.  Miss  Lejeune  was  delighted,  and  promised  herself  and  the 
girls  to  spend  many  a  morning  there. 


ITALIOA.  179 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


ITALICA. 


FOR  the  afternoon,  Juan,  the  guide,  proposed  a  drive,  and  as 
no  one  was  tired  but  Fanny,  the  plan  was  approved,  and 
Fanny  was  quite  willing  to  be  left  behind  with  Nana.  The  cool 
and  pleasant  patio  always  recommended  itself  to  the  nurse  as  a 
suitable  spot  for  looking  after  her  charge,  and  there  the  grave, 
industrious  French  woman,  sat  willingly  for  hours,  sewing  inter- 
minably, knitting  or  darning  stockings,  while  the  contented  baby, 
still  so-called,  played  by  her  side.  The  children  often  brought  home 
amusing  toys  and  trifles  for  the  child,  who,  indeed,  had  been  so  accus- 
tomed to  Nana's  society  from  her  birth,  that  she  required  no  other. 
Fanny  now  proposed,  however,  to  help  Nana  amuse  the  baby,  and 
Nana  announced  that  she  had  a  letter  to  write,  a  serious  undertaking 
with  her  limited  knowledge  of  writing  and  spelling. 

The  rest  started  off  in  the  best  of  spirits,  in  an  open  carriage 
rather  crowded,  to  be  sure,  for  Juan  was  on  the  box  with  the  driver; 
but  it  was  large,  and  held  very  well  Bessie,  wedged  between  the  two 
boys  on  the  back  seat,  while  Miss  Lejeune  and  Mr.  Horner  occu- 
pied the  places  of  honor. 

It  is  difficult  to  drive  through  the  narrow  streets  of  Seville,  for 
they  are  wide  enough  only  for  one  set  of  wheels  between  wall  and 
wall,  with  no  allowance  of  sidewalk  for  foot-passengers ;  an  arrow 
at  every  corner  shows  in  which  direction  carriages  may  pass  through 
each  street,  a  direction  always  so  faithfully  obeyed  that  no  one  knows 
what  would  happen  if  it  were  not  followed  ;  so  that  if  two  carriages 
should  meet  face  to  face  "  one  of  them  would  have  to  drive  over 
the  top  of  the  other,"  said  Bessie. 


180  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

"They   would   both   have  to   turn    round,"  said   Hubert. 

"  But  they  could  not  turn  round,  either  of  them,"  objected  Tommy. 
"What  would  they  do,  Juan.?"  he  continued,  applying  to  the  guide 
on  the  box. 

"It  never  happened,"  replied  Juan,  and  with  this  they  had  to  be 
satisfied. 

They  went  first  to  see  a  private  house  belonging  to  a  great  duke, 
called  the  Casa  de  Pilatos,  or  House  of  Pilate,  because  it  is  said 
to  have  been  built  in  imitation  of  Pilate's  house  in  Jerusalem,  by 
the  Marquis  of  Tarifa,  who  made  a  pilgrimage  to  the  Holy  Land 
in  1578,  and  erected  this  palace  on  his  return.  The  Homers 
thought  there  was  no  resemblance  in  the  rich  Moorish  building  to 
the  House  of  Pilate,  so-called,  now  standing,  which  they  had  seen 
in  Jerusalem ;  but  this  did  not  prevent  them  from  admiring  the  one 
before   them. 

Beyond  the  Guadalquivir,  a  pleasant  drive  along  its  banks,  and 
by  a  palm  grove  belonging  to  the  ancient  Abbey  of  Santo  Ponce, 
they  came  to  the  only  vestige  now  left  of  Italica,  a  ruined  amphi- 
theatre, in  the  ancient  city,  founded  by  Scipio  Africanus,  as  a  home 
and  resting  place  for  his  soldiers  wearied  after  the  campaign  against 
the  Carthaginians.  Three  Roman  Emperors  were  born  there,  Trajan, 
Adrian,  and  Theodosius.  Its  palaces,  aqueducts  and  circus  were  mag- 
nificent. The  palace  of  Trajan  was  partly  preserved  until  1755, 
when  an  earthquake  destroyed  their  last  traces.  Coins  are  still 
often  dug  up,  and  a  beautiful  pavement  is  known  to  have  been 
taken  up  and  preserved  by  a  poor  monk  less  than  one  hundred 
years   ago,  but  no  one  knows  now  what  has  become  of  it. 

Very  little  is  left  of  the  amphitheatre  but  the  graded  walls  which 
mark  its  vast  dimensions  ;  but  Hubert  was  more  excited  over  it  than 
anything  else  he  had  seen,  as  he  was  familiar  with  the  arena  at 
Nismes,  and  he  liked  to  point  out  to  the  others  how  it  differs, 
and  how  it  must  have  looked  before  the  massive  sides  were  shaken 
by  earthquakes  and  before  sand  and  weeds  had  encroached  upon  its 
enclosure.  As  the  Horners  had  never  been  in  Rome,  they  had  never 
seen    the  Coliseum  there,   which  is  built  on   the  same  principle  ;    but 


o 

> 

> 
X 

l—t 

H 

a 

> 

> 

> 

r" 

n 

> 


ITALICA.  183 

every  one  is  familiar  with  its  form  and  plan  by  seeing  photographs 
and  reading  descriptions.  The  rooms  where  the  gladiators  used  to 
prepare  themselves  for  combat,  and  the  dens  which  contained  the 
wild   beasts,    have   been    discovered   only   lately. 

The  drive  through  the  bright  sunny  air  was  delightful  as  the 
party  returned  to  Seville.  They  were  in  the  best  of  spirits,  for 
they  had  that  day  received  a  budget  of  letters,  which  had  been  sent 
first  to  Madrid,  so  that  there  had  been  a  delay  of  a  day  or  two 
before  they  reached   Seville. 

Mrs.  Horner  and  Mary  wrote  glowing  accounts  of  their  retreat 
in  the  Pyrenees.  Philip,  who,  it  had  been  feared,  might  find  it  dull, 
was  going  up  all  the  mountain  peaks  in  the  neighborhood,  either 
on  foot,  or  on  the  good  little  donkeys  which  were  always  ready  to 
be  hired.  Mary  was  sketching  daily,  and  every  day  growing  visibly 
stronger,  and  Mrs.  Horner's  energies  were  absorbed  by  an  immense 
affghan  she  had  begun  to  knit  of  Barege  wool,  a  staple  of  the  country, 
which  is  very  soft  and  pretty.  They  had  received  long  letters 
from  Mr.  Hervey  before  he  sailed  from  America  on  the  first  of  May. 

"  I  must  write  Mary  a  long  letter  wholly  about  the  pictures,"  said 
Miss  Augusta ;  "  I  have  only  just  hinted  at  those  we  have  seen  in  the 
different  cathedrals  ;  but  as  soon  as  we  have  been  to  the  gallery  here, 
I  shall  give  her  a  full  account  of  it.  I  do  wish  she  could  see  it 
with  us  ! " 

"  So  do  I,"  said  Mr.  Horner  ;  "  but  I  think  her  rosy  cheeks  and 
good  appetite  are  much  better  for  her  than  a  feast  of  Spanish  painting." 

"  What  sort  of  a  boy  is  Philip .? "  asked  Hubert.  "  Is  he  like  you, 
Tommy  .-*" 

"He  is  bigger  than  I  am,"  said  Tommy,  "and  in  some  respects 
superior.     I  don't  know    whether   you  would    like  him  better  or  not." 

Hubert  too  had  a  brief  letter  from  his  father,  and  one  enclosed 
in  it  from  his  mother,  quite  old  as  to  date  by  the  time  he  received 
it,  as  it  had  been  sent  to  Gibraltar  in  full  faith  that  the  children 
would  have  reached  there.  It  was  a  short,  but  sweet,  affectionate 
letter,  written  with  the  feeble  hand  of  an  invalid.  Nana  shook  her 
head  as  she  looked  at  it. 


184 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


PALACE  OF  THE   DUKE   DE  MONTPENSIER. 


" P auv re  madam^," 
said  she  ;  "  elle  est  trh 
ma/ade." 

The     driver    brought 
his    party  back    tc    the 
hotel    through   the    gay 
Corso    de    las   Delicias, 
wide   and    modern,    like 
the    Prado    at    Madrid, 
and  they  passed  the  en- 
trance of   the  palace  of 
the  duke  de  Montpensier, 
which,  with  its  gallery  of 
pictures     and     beautiful 
gardens     they    did    not 
have  time  to  see  that  day 
They  came   back   to  it, 
however,  for  a  long  ex- 
amination    belore    they 
left  Seville. 

The  Duke  de  Mont- 
pensier is  the  uncle  of 
the  present  king ,  that 
is,  he  married  the  sister 
of  Isabella,  the  deposed 
queen.  Also  the  sweet 
daughter  of  the  duke, 
Mercedes,  the  first  wife 
of  this  king,  Alphonso, 
was  the  pretty  young 
queen  of  whom  the  peo- 
ple were  so  proud,  that 
they  grieved  sincerely 
at  her  early  death. 

The  palace,  called  San 


SWI?f¥iM^l^ 


^ 


'i\ 


',!i 


;'•'! 


\ 


WW 

5X1  — 


^    J/      ^W^ 


C'l'li  ^-^ 


> 

fa 

C 

w 

> 
H 

> 
2 

H 
W 
t- 

S 
o 


ITALIC  A.  187 

Telmo,  is  very  handsome,  and  is  surrounded  by  spacious  gardens  full 
of  orange-trees,  palms  and  shrubs,  pines,  and  many  rare  plants,  very 
charming  to  wander  in.  Long  alleys  of  tall  sycamores  were  crossed 
by  others  of  pointed  cypress,  underneath  which,  and  everywhere, 
were  lovely  flowers,  roses,  jasmine,  and  all  early  summer  things. 
White  peacocks  trailed  their  dainty  feathers  upon  the  hard  sand 
of  the  walks;  they  looked  like  fine  ladies  with  white  satin  trains. 
There  was  no  color,  such  as  we  commonly  call  "  peacock  color," 
anywhere  upon  them ;  but  the  eyes  of  the  feathers  were  indicated 
by  a  different  tint  of  white.  There  was  a  real  stork  sitting  on 
his   nest    on    top   of  a  pillar,  set   up  on    purpose    for   him,  apparently. 

The  children  were  delighted  with  this  immense  garden  ;  they 
passed  a  whole  morning  there.  Nana  sitting  in  a  Moorish  sum- 
mer house,  on  an  island  in  a  lake,  while  Miss  Lejeune  sat  by  her 
side  sketching.  Nightingales  filled  the  air  with  their  sweet  notes, 
which  all  the  Horners  were  too  light  hearted  to  consider  melan- 
choly. The  nightingale  seems  a  cheerful  bird  when  he  is  jug-jug- 
ing  away  in  the  general  feathered  chorus  on  a  sunny  noon,  in 
broad  sunshine.  His  note  really  sounds  not  in  the  least  like  "jug- 
jug,"  being  sweet  and  melodious  as  possible ;  yet  somehow  these 
words,  always  used  to  describe  it,  seem  to  do  so.  With  the  usual 
open  hospitality  of  personages  in  Europe,  the  duke  allows  strangers 
to  visit  the  inside  of  the  palace.  The  rooms  are  handsome,  and  in 
them  are  to  be  seen  the  pictures  of  the  Montpensier  collection 
which    came   to  America   some    years   ago. 

Miss  Lejeune  looked  at  these  with  great  interest,  remembering 
that  they  had  not  pleased  the  general  taste  of  those  who  saw  them 
in  Boston  where  they  were  shown,  and  that  she  herself  had  found 
them  severe  and  unattractive  in  subject.  Now  that  she  had  seen 
a  good  many  Spanish  pictures,  and  moreover,  many  fine  master- 
pieces elsewhere  in  Europe,  she  was  glad  to  modify  her  opinion. 
She  thoroughly  enjoyed  the  Piedad  by  Morales,  and  four  subjects 
in  the  life  of  Christ,  by  Zurbaran.  The  pictures  are  well  hung  in 
rooms  whose  light  and  decorative  surroundings  are  in  perfect  har- 
mony   with     them.        However,    Mr.    Horner    and     Miss    Lejeune    had 


188 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


a  good  laugh  at  the  inconsistency  of  human  nature,  which  allows 
itself  to  be  so  differently  impressed  at  different  times,  and  under 
different    influences. 

"  Consistency  is  a  poor  virtue,"  Miss  Lejeune  remarked.  "  I  love 
to  find  that  I  can  enjoy  those  pictures  now  so  much  more  than 
before." 

"  Consistency  should  not,  certainly,  be  allowed  to  interfere  with 
progress,"    remarked  Mr.  Horner. 

The  weather  was  growing  decidedly  warm  ;  every  day  as  the 
Horners  came  home  from  excursions,  they  found  it  agreeable  to 
stop  at  a  cooling  drinks  shop,  which  stood  in  the  plaza  near 
the  end  of  their  narrow  Serpent  street.  Chairs  were  always  offered 
them,  where  they  sat,  while  a  small  child,  who  could  hardly  reach 
to  the  counter,  prepared  the  Jwrchata,  or  squeezed  the  limon,  the 
mild   beverage  beloved   of    the   Spanish, 


MUKiLLO.  189 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

MURILLO. 

ALL    of   one    morning  was    spent  in    the    picture    gallery  by  the 
older    portion    of    the    party,    while    the    boys  and    Fanny    went 
back    to    the  Alcazar  gardens    under    the   protection  of  Juan. 

The  gallery  is  small,  consisting  only  of  one  long  room  or  hall 
in  a  building,  formerly  a  church  and  convent.  It  is  especially  de- 
voted to  Murillos  ;  and  here  first  may  Murillo  be  studied  to  advan- 
tage. Side  by  side  his  beautiful  and  world-renowned  Madonnas 
hang,  in  number,  and  near  them,  pictures  on  other  subjects  by 
him,  which  have  never  been  copied  or  produced  elsewhere.  Photo- 
graphs of  them  are  to  be  bought  in  Seville  and  Madrid,  but  they 
are  as  yet  very  little  known,  except  to  Spanish  travellers,  and  stud- 
ents of  Spanish  art.  Murillo  is  the  pride  and  the  true  head  of 
the  Seville  school  of  painting ;  he  shares  with  Velasquez  the  high- 
est honors  of  Spanish  art.  He  was  born  in  Seville,  probably  in 
1618,  on  the  first  of  January,  nearly  twenty  years  after  Velasquez. 
As  he  inclined  early  towards  painting,  he  was  put  in  the  hands 
of  Juan  del  Castillo,  a  painter  still  celebrated  for  some  fine  por-. 
traits,  and    for   being    the  teacher   of   masters   greater   than  himself. 

When  Murillo  was  twenty-four  years  old,  a  fellow  artist  returned 
from  London  bringing  with  him  a  style  of  painting  learned  from 
Van  Dyck.  Murillo,  on  seeing  this,  much  desired  to  go  to  England ; 
but  Van  Dyck  died  about  that  time  ;  he  would  have  liked  to  study 
in  Italy,  but  money  was  wanting,  even  for  the  shorter  journey  to 
Madrid.  The  latter  place  he  attained  to,  by  painting  and  selling 
a  number  of  devotional  pictures.  Arrived  at  the  capital,  he  pre- 
sented   himself    to    Velasquez   who    received    him    with    great    friend- 


190 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN". 


ship.     He   was    thus    able   to    study   and    copy  the    great    works    of 
Titian,    Rubens,    and    the   rest   belonging    to    the    royal    galleries. 
When   he   returned   later  to   Seville,  all   wondered   at    his  skill,  and 


MURILLO. 


from  that  time  forward  his  reputation  increased  until  his  death. 
In  1674  he  finished  eight  great  pictures  for  the  church  called  La 
Caridad,    which    contains    a   fine   collection    of    his    works. 

The  coloring  of  his  pictures  is  extremely  soft  and  lovely,  har- 
monizing with  the  same  expression  in  the  faces  of  his  Madonnas, 
and    the   beautiful   little  cherubs   he   delights    to    paint. 


MURILLO.  191 

* 

He  died  in  April,  1662,  after  falling  from  a  ladder  where  he 
was  painting  the  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine,  in  a  church  in  Caliz. 
He  was  not  killed,  but  fatally  hurt,  and  was  carried  back  to 
Seville    to    die. 

Bessie  found  she  liked  the  Murillos  much ;  had  she  not,  she 
would  have  been  difficult  to  please,  there  is  so  much  variety  in 
the  grouping  of  the  personages  he  represents,  and  such  pretty 
types  of  children,  fine  ones  of  old  men,  etc.  The  Virgin  of  the 
Napkin  is  so  called  because  it  is  said  to  have  been  painted  by 
Murillo  on  a  dinner  napkin,  as  a  gift  to  the  cook  at  the  convent 
at  Cadiz,  when  Murillo  was  at  work  there.  In  spite  of  her  fond- 
ness for  legends  and  her  faith  in  the  marvellous,  Bessie  did  not 
believe  that  they  had  napkins  as  big  as  that  picture  at  the 
Capuchinos,    a   couple   of  centuries    ago. 

Seville  honors  the  memory  of  her  great  master,  and  there  is  a 
monument  to  him  before  the  Museum  which  contains  the  picture 
gallery. 

Miss  Lejeune  found  time  to  describe  the  Murillo  pictures  to 
Mary  in  a  long  letter  which  she  said  the  rest  could  skip  if  they 
felt  inclined.  It  also  dwelt  on  the  delights  and  difficulties  of  water- 
color  sketching  in  an  atmosphere  so  brilliant  and  so  different  from 
our  own.  Miss  Lejeune  was  an  enthusiast  for  art  and  sketching, 
although  she  despised  the  results  of  her  own  efforts.  She  never 
expected  any  praise  for  her  sketches,  and  rather  preferred  not  to 
have  them  seen,  although  she  was  good-natured  about  showing 
them. 

Mary,  on  the  other  hand,  was  likely  to  become  a  proficient  in 
the  pretty  art.  She  wrote  of  lessons  that  she  was  taking  of  an 
excellent  teacher  who  happened  to  be  staying  at  their  hotel  in 
Luz  ;  he  painted  in  a  wet,  broad  style  that  she  especially  liked, 
and  was  not  unwilling  to  pick  up  a  chance  scholar,  so  apt  as 
Mary   proved    herself. 

One  day  Juan  took  the  children  through  an  old  quarter  of  the 
town,  where  a  fair  was  going  on  ;  everything  under  the  sun 
set  forth    for    sale    on    little    tables    in    the   middle   of    the    streets  — 


192  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

pottery,  brass  work,  cheap  handkerchiefs,  stockings,  a  collection  gay 
in  color,  and  arranged  not  only  to  show  the  best  effect,  but  also 
to   tempt    the    purchaser. 

Tommy  bought  a  handful  of  ripe  mulberries  for  Fanny,  which 
looked  to  the  others  a  little  repulsive,  as  they  were  jammed, 
though  juicy  ;  the  only  thing  at  hand  to  put  them  in  was  a 
chance  piece  of  torn  newspaper  Passing  through  the  market,  they 
saw  lovely  ripe  figs.  The  man  that  owned  them  was  sound  asleep 
stretched  at  full  length  behind  his  counter,  and  Juan  had  to  poke 
him    with    his    umbrella    to    rouse    him    to    a    bargain. 

Juan  was  a  Spaniard,  but  dressed  to  resemble  an  Englishman,  in 
a  closely  buttoned  pepper  and  salt  coat,  with  trousers  to  match. 
He  always  carried  an  umbrella,  and  invariably  smoked  a  cigar- 
ette. His  voice  was  low,  and  his  English  was  distinct  and 
grammatical,  with  some  limitations,  for  his  knowledge  went  no 
farther  than  the  range  of  his  duties  as  valet  de  place;  but  he 
was  honest  and  intelligent,  and  always  kind  to  the  children,  who 
became  very  fond  of  him,  and  amused  him  much  by  their  views 
of   things    Andalusian. 

They  went  one  night  to  a  theatre,  open,  though  it  was  summer  ; 
not  the  most  splendid  of  Seville,  but  a  bare,  barn-like  place, 
like  a  town  hall  in  a  country  town.  Every  one  was  smoking 
cigarettes.  A  perro  came  and  smelt  of  Bessie,  and  then  sat  down 
on  a  seat  in  front  of  her  for  the  performance.  There  was  first 
a  little  play  of  modern  life,  and  then  a  pretty  ballet,  with  good 
dancing  and  suitable  dresses,  the  orchestra  playing  light  and 
charming  dance  music,  of  which  the  movement  and  melody  become 
very    dear   to   travellers. 

The  Horners  had  a  tiresome  time  finding,  or  rather  losing,  their 
way  back  to  the  hotel,  for  Juan  was  not  with  them.  They 
thought  they  knew  it,  and  went  round  and  round,  expecting  each 
corner  would  lead  them  to  Serpent  street,  until  their  feet  were  very 
tired  with  walking  upon  the  round  stones.  At  last  they  reached  a 
square  which  they  knew  to  be  their  square,  with  the  opening  to 
their    little    street    just    opposite    to    the    direction     where     they    had 


MURILLO. 


193 


expected  it  to  be.  The  next  day,  tracing  as  well  as  they  could 
their  course  on  the  map,  it  seemed  as  if  they  had  carefully 
avoided    Calle   de    Sierpes    at    every    turn. 

This  was  somewhat  mortifying,  for  they  had  been  there  ten  days 
when  it  happened,  and  felt  quite  at  home  there.  They  were  all 
growing  very  fond  of  Seville,  and  it  was  hard  to  think  of  going 
away.  They  were  now  beginning  to  pick  up  a  little  Spanish,  and 
Bessie,  especially,  could  make  herself  understood  in  shops  and  in 
the   street. 

Mr.  Horner  was  the  first  to  put  into  words  the  general  feeling 
that  the   party   must    be   moving   on. 

"  I  told    them   at  the   banker's    in   Madrid,   to    forward    our    letters 


NUNS   AT  PRAYERS. 


to  Seville  only  a  week,"  said  he  one  morning.  "  So  we  must  not 
expect  any  more  here.  There  may  be  a  budget  at  Granada  now, 
I    think." 

"So  soon!"  exclaimed  Bessie.  "Why,  papa,  it  is  only  a  minute 
since  we   came." 

"  Just  a  week,"  said  her  father ;  "  and  ten  days  since  we  left 
Madrid." 


194  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN". 

"Oh,  dear!"  she  replied;  "and  every  place  we  have  been  to 
here   we   want   to    see  over    again." 

She  was  just  then  writing  a  long  letter  to  Philip,  and  Miss 
Lejeune  and  Mr.  Horner  were  engaged  in  the  same  way,  all 
sitting  at  their  large  round  table,  at  little  oases  which  eacli  had 
made  by  piling  up  or  pushing  away  the  things  that  were  heaped 
upon    it. 

"  I  have  been  talking  with  Juan  about  our  course,"  resumed 
Mr.  Horner  ;  "  he  says  the  steamers  are  excellent  from  Cadiz  to 
Malaga ;  indeed,  that  we  could  keep  on,  and  go  by  sea  all  the 
way  up  the  coast  of  Spain  ;  but  of  course  we  do  not  care  to  do 
that.  I  wish  we  might  see  Palos,  and  something  more  of  the 
traces   of   Columbus." 

They  had,  of  course,  not  failed  to  think  of  the  discoverer  of 
America  in  Seville,  and  where  there  are  many  things  to  recall  him. 
In  the  pavement  of  the  Cathedral  is  a  marble  slab  bearing  an 
inscription  to  the  memory  of  the  second  son  of  Columbus,  a  man 
of  learning,  who  bequeathed  his  library,  called  la  Colombina,  to  the 
chapter,    and    his   ashes   to  the    Cathedral.     On    the   slab    is    written : 

A  CASTILLA  Y  A  LEON. 
MUNDO  NUEVO  DIO  COLON. 

"To   Leon    and    Castille    Columbus   gave   a   New   World." 

It  was  the  great  glory  of  the  reign  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella, 
that  under  their  auspices  America  was  discovered  ;  the  queen 
especially  undertook  the  enterprise  when  it  had  been  declined  by 
others,  and  served  Columbus  in  the  most  acceptable  manner  by 
supplying    him    with    ample    resources. 

"  Shall  we  say  day  after  to-morrow,  Augusta  ? "  continued  Mr. 
Horner. 

"  So  soon  ! "  she  said  with  a  sigh  looking  round  the  room 
which,  with  all  its  paraphernalia  of  pleasant  hving,  looked  too 
attractive  to  leave.  "Yes,  I  suppose  so;  do  you  know  what  time 
we  start  ? " 


MURILLO. 


195 


"At  noon,  Juan  says.  That  is  a  good  thing;  and  there  is  no 
night  travel  this    time." 

"  Not  till  we  arc  upon  your  favorite  steamer,"  said  Miss  Lejeune, 
putting   down    her   pen,    and    rising. 

Mr.  Horner  shuddered.  He  did  not  share  the  fondness  of  some 
of  his  family   for   aquatic   excursions. 

"But,  aunt  Dut,  you  needn't  put  on  your  hat  now!"  remon- 
strated  Bessie. 

"  No,  but  I  want  to  see  Nana  about  the  washing.  I  think  the 
senoras  took  some  this  morning,  and  they  must  be  told  to  bring 
it  back   in    good   time." 

So  the  Seville  season  came  to  an  end.  Their  happy  establish- 
ment was  broken  up,  and  they  set  off  for  Cadiz  one  bright  morn- 
ing after  almuerzo. 


196  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER   XXTII. 


CADIZ. 


MISS  LEJEUNE  and  Bessie  were  just  alike  in  one  respect, 
which  made  them,  on  the  whole,  excellent  travellers.  They 
always  were  very  unwilling  to  leave  the  place  they  were  in,  and 
went  about  packing  and  breaking  up  with  gloomy  energy;  but 
once  in  the  train,  their  spirits  rose,  all  regret  was  cast  aside,  and 
they  found  it  delightful  to  be  moving  again.  No  fatigue  disheart- 
ened either  of  them,  and  they  both  regarded  the  arrival  at  a  new 
hotel   as   one   of  the   chief  delights    of  travel. 

In  this  they  differed  from  Mrs.  Horner  and  Mary,  who  rather 
dreaded  the  worry  of  being  established  in  new  rooms.  The  mamma 
especially  always  feared  beforehand  there  was  going  to  be  a  smell, 
or  that  the  bed  would  be  hard,  or  that  the  view  would  not  be 
satisfactory.  She  concealed  these  fears,  but  was  not  quite  happy 
until  a  new  day  in  a  new  place  proved  that  they  had  been  unwar- 
ranted. The  two  sanguine  ones,  Bessie  and  Miss  Augusta,  had  it 
their  own  way  in  Spain  ;  for  papa's  two  anxieties,  one  about  the 
baggage,  which  always  came  out  all  right,  and  the  other  the  boys, 
who    always    turned    up    in    time,    were    of    no    account. 

Juan  escorted  them  to  the  station,  and  there  they  parted  from 
him  with  much  regret,  for  he  had  been  very  useful,  and  had 
become  a  valued  friend;  but  they  felt  now  quite  capable  of  rely- 
ing   upon    their    own    resources. 

They  were  seated  in  the  train  by  two  o'clock  p.  m.,  but  it  did 
not  start  until  four,  after  the  usual  Spanish  fashion,  and  thus  it 
was  late  before  they  arrived  at  Cadiz,  and  they  approached  the 
city  in  the  dim  faded  lights  of  after  sunset,  over  a  long,  very 
lono-   causeway,  with  water    on   each  side.     Cadiz    has    been  compared 


CADIZ. 


197 


to  a  guitar,  connected  with  the  rest  of  the  world  by  the  handle. 
The  Homers  rejoiced  at  seeing  the  sea  after  many  weeks,  and  the 
salt   fresh    air   of  the    Atlantic    was  delightful    to  them. 

Cadiz  is  a  walled  town ;  the  railway  station  outside.  They  drove 
through  an  arched  gateway,  guarded  as  usual,  by  the  inevitable  pair 
of  alguazils,  and,  before  moving  on,  had  to  undergo  a  parley  with 
custom-house  officials  ;  nothing  was  examined,  however,  and  they 
were  free  to  pass  on 
to  their  hotel,  through 
straight,  long  streets, 
which  appeared  wide 
and  modern,  after 
sinuous  Seville. 

"Just  like  Phila- 
delphia!" declared 
Bessie,  who  was  old 
enough  to  be  taken 
to  the  Centennial 
there,   in    1876. 

Cadiz,  however,  is 
not  much  like  Phil- 
adelphia. Their  hotel 
was  on  a  pretty 
square,  planted  with 
trees,  and  in  the 
light  of  the  street 
lamps  people  were  flitting  about,  strolling  in  groups,  or  chatting 
on   benches,  for   the    night   was    soft    and  warm. 

Miss  Lejeune  leaned  from  her  balcony  and  enjoyed  the  novelty 
of  the  scene,  and  the  tinkling  sounds  which  rose  from  guitars. 
After  the  shut-in,  close  walks  of  Seville,  the  sense  of  space  was 
very  agreeable.      She  looked   up  at  the  bright  dark  sky,  full   of  stars. 

The  rest  of  the  party  were  too  tired  for  sentimentalizing.  Fanny 
was  put  to  bed  at  once ;  the  others  waited  for  dinner  to  be  ready, 
which    deserved    rather    the    name   of    supper,  for    it   was   after    nine 


ALGUAZILS. 


198  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

before  it  was  served,  and  then  they  went  directly  to  bed,  defying 
digestion,  for  there  was  to  be  an  early  start  in  the  morning,  the 
steamer  which  they  were  to  take,  being  advertised  for  six  o'clock. 
So  not  much  after  dawn  the  sleepy  set  were  roused,  and  soon 
found  themselves  on  the  stone  pier,  bargaining,  through  the  medium 
of  an   interpreter  from   the   hotel,  for   a    row  boat  to    take    them   out 

into   the   bay. 

"I  am  so  glad  mamma  is  not  here!"  said  Bessie,  as  they  set- 
tled   themselves  into   a   large    boat    with    ample    accommodations. 

"  This  boat    is    solid    enough    to    please    her,"    said    Mr.    Horner. 

"  It  looks,"  said  Miss  Lejeune,  "  as  if  it  were  made  of  the  original 
beams    left    over   from    the   ark." 

Two  strong  sailors,  with  sashes  round  their  waists,  and  paimelas 
tied  about  their  heads,  pulled  the  heavy  boat  over  the  water  with 
swift  strokes. 

"Imagine   Columbus,"  exclaimed    Miss  Augusta,   "being  brought    in 

from    his    caravel  !" 

"  His  caravel  was  not  so  much  larger  than  this  craft,  I  suppose," 
said    Mr.   Horner. 

The  steamer  was  lying  far  off  from  the  town,  and  in  the  half- 
hour's  pull  to  reach  it,  they  had  a  pretty  view  of  the  receding 
city,  very  white  in  the  morning  light,  rising  from  the  water  with 
graceful   domes    and    spires. 

This  was  all  they  saw  of  Cadiz,  once  the  most  famous  seaport 
of  the  world,  under  the  Romans ;  less  important  in  the  hands  of 
the  Goths,  and  afterwards  of  the  Moors,  its  prosperity  rose  again 
with  the  discovery  of  America,  for  it  shared  with  Seville  the  de- 
posits of  gold  and  merchandize  from  the  new  country.  This  made 
it  a  frequent  point  of  attack  from  pirates  and  princes  coveting  its 
treasures  ;.  and  it  has  repeatedly  been  plundered  and  almost  destroyed. 
Its  wealth  and  commerce  were  great,  even  to  the  end  of  the  last 
century.  French  invasion  and  civil  war  have  reduced  its  import- 
ance, and  it  is  now  less  interesting  a  place  for  tourists  than  many 
other  places,  because  its  monuments  and  works  of  art  are  fewer. 
It  contains,  however,  in  the  Church  of   the  Capuchins,  the  fatal  pict- 


>  J      >      > 


CADIZ.  201 

ture  which  caused  the  death  of  Murillo.  It  is  just  as  he  left  it ; 
not  quite  finished.  Cadiz,  Hke  Seville,  is  famous  for  the  beauty  of 
its   women. 

The  Cristoforo  Colon  was  a  large  clean  steamer,  comfortably  arranged. 
As  there  were  but  few  passengers,  the  Homers  had  the  pleasant 
deck  pretty  much  to  themselves,  and  the  boys  were  soon  running 
all  over  the  ship,  exploring  its  mysteries.  Miss  Lejeune  fell  into 
conversation  with  an  elderly  gentleman  who  spoke  French  so  flu- 
ently, and  had  such  old-fashioned  elegance  of  manner,  that  she 
guessed  him  to  be  a  Frenchman.  He  had  travelled  much  in  Spain, 
and   knew   all   about    the   pictures,   and   talked    very  well    about  art. 

By  and  by  when  the  boys  had  come  back,  the  old  amateur  rose 
and  soon  left  her  side,  and  Hubert  took  his  place. 
Tommy  carried  Bessie  off  to  see  the  live  stock.  Fanny 
was  in  the  cabin  with  Nana  and  the  baby,  and  Mr. 
Horner  was  smoking  and  reading  somewhere  by  him- 
self. 

Hubert   was    in    a    state   of   excitement  natural  enough 

1  I.     J       ^1  1  r       1    •  •  TT  OLD   AMATEUR. 

as    he    approached    the    end    or    his    journey.       He    was 

restless,    but    at    the   same    time    he     wanted    to    be    quiet,    and    did 

not    really   care    for    the    sights    of   the    ship,    which    amused    Tommy. 

Miss  Augusta  took  his  hand  and  held  it  a  little  while,  leading 
him  to  talk  about  home  and  his  mother,  and  she  now  learned 
more   of  these   matters    than    at    any   previous    time. 

"  You  cannot  think  how  lovely  mamma  is,"  said  he  in  a  low 
tone ;  "  and  her  voice  is  so  gentle  and  dear."  His  eyes  filled  with 
tears  as  he  went  on  telling  how  sweet  and  patient  she  was,  and 
how  delicate. 

"  I  have  her  photograph!"  he  exclaimed,  "and  I  never  showed 
it  to  you.  Tommy  has  seen  it.  I  look  at  it  every  evening  just 
before   I   go    to    sleep." 

He  brought  the  little  picture  up  to  her.  Miss  Augusta  saw  a 
very  pale  wan  face,  with  large  eyes  looking  forth  from  it,  a  sweet 
expression,  and  graceful  shoulders  and  pretty  hair  drawn  back  from 
the   forehead.     She    sighed    as   she    looked  ;    she   could    not    help   it. 


202 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIX. 


"I  know,  I  know!"  cried  Hubert;  "you  think  mamma  is  very 
ill.  But  we  thought  going  home  would  cure  her.  To  England,  I 
mean, — to  grandmamma's.  That  was  taken  in  London  to  send  to 
papa.  But  mamma  wanted  to  come  back,  and  so  we  started,  but 
she  could  not  come  any  farther  than  Bordeaux,  and  then  they 
said — they   said"  — 

He  broke  down  ;  he  could  go  no  further.  Miss  Lejeune  under- 
stood   the    rest. 


CADIZ   FROM   THE    SEA. 


"  Do  not  try  to  tell  me,  dear  boy.  I  know.  Has  she  always 
been    an    invalid.''" 

"Ever  since  baby  was  born.  Did  you  know  baby  was  born  in 
India?"  he  asked,  his  face  brightening  with  the  change  of  idea 
and    the    thought    that    Miss    Lejeune    would    be  interested. 

"  Papa  was  in  India  before  he  was  stationed  at  Gibraltar,"  he  went 
on,  "and  mamma  went  tliere  with  him;  but  we  did  not  go.  Fanny 
and     I    stayed    at    grandmamma's.     It    was    ever   so    long    ago    that 


CADIZ.  203 

they  went.  I  scarcely  remember  about  it.  And  then  I  remember 
when  they  came  home.  It  was  so  funny  to  know  papa  and  mamma; 
and  papa  was  very  different  then.  It  is  only  lately  that  he  has 
grown    so    gloomy"  — 

He  stopped  short.  Probably  he  was  thinking,  as  Miss  Augusta 
was,    that   it    was    anxiety   about    his   wife    that    had    changed    him. 

"  Poor   Colonel    Vaughan !  "    she    murmured    to    herself. 

"  Poor  papa !  "  said  Hubert,  "  he  has  lots  of  trouble.  Mamma's 
sister  died  only  a  year  or  two  ago,  and  she  was  just  the  same  as 
papa's   own    sister." 

^  The  tears  were  coming  again.  Miss  Lejeune  was  beginning  to 
feel  that  she  must  not  let  him  dwell  longer  on  these  sad  themes, 
when  the  other  children  came  breathlessly  up,  crying,  "  Come  and 
see  Africa,  it  is  just  ahead!"  The  whole  party  assembled  at  the 
very  most  forward  part  of  the  ship,  and  there,  to  be  sure,  were  the 
blue  mountains  of  Tarifa,  and  the  shore  of  another  continent. 
They  stood  there  watching  the  land  on  each  side  of  them,  for 
some   time.     In   one  place   the   width    is    but   twelve    miles. 

It  is  a  narrow  strait, 
I  see  the  blue  hills  over, 

sang    Bessie. 

"  Well,  Tommy,"  exclaimed  Miss  Lejeune  ;  "  only  think  of  our 
being  together  a  second  time  sailing  through  the  Straits  of 
Gibraltar!" 


204  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 


THE    NARROW    STRAIT. 


IN   fact,  Tommy  felt  important  on  account  of   his  previous  passage 
of    the    strait,    and   did    the   honors    not   only   to   his    own    party, 
but   to    the   group   generally,  pointing   out  the  fort  and  lighthouse  of 
Tarifa   close   at   hand,    and   distant    Tangier   across    the   water. 

Gradually  moving  westward,  they  entered  into  stiller  waters,  and 
before  them  loomed  up,  really  majestic  and  grand,  and  bristling 
with  cannon,  the  great  rock  on  which  proudly  waves  the  flag 
of  England. 

Hubert  now  began  to  feel  at  home,  and  could  point  out  to 
Tommy  many  objects  which  had  not  come  to  that  young  gentle- 
man's  knowledge   on    his   short  visit   of   the   year   before. 

Letters  and  a  telegram  had  been  sent  to  inform  Colonel 
Vaughan  of  the  approach  of  his  family,  and  they  were  full  of 
excitement  at  the  thought  of  meeting  him.  Fanny  clung  to  Nana's 
hand.  Hubert  stood  by  Mr.  Horner,  trying  to  think  of  some 
proper  way  to  express  his  sense  of  the  kindness  he  had  received. 

"All  right,  my  boy,"  said  Mr.  Horner;  "you  have  behaved 
very  well,  and  it  has  been  a  great  pleasure  to  us  all  to  have  you 
with    us." 

He  was  himself  a  little  anxious,  and  indeed  a  little  curious  to 
see  the  father  of  these  children  with  whom  he  had  so  unexpectedly 
come   into   such    close   relations. 

There  are  no  children  who  need  to  be  told  that  Gibraltar  is  an 
English  possession,  and  that  the  English  have  held  it  fast  in  spite 
of  every  efTort  to  regain  it  by  Spain,  who  naturally  begrudges  it 
to  a  foreign   power.     It   has   always   been    a   bone   of   contention,  and 


THE  NARROW  STRAIT.  205 

between  the  Moors  and  Spaniards,  had  sustained  eleven  siep-es 
before  the  time  when,  in  the  course  of  the  war  for  the  Spanish 
Succession,  it  was  seized  by  Sir  George  Rooke,  July  24,  1704,  who 
took   possession    of  it   in    the    name    of    Queen    Anne. 

In  June,  1780,  a  desperate  and  skilful  attempt  was  made  by 
the  united  land  and  sea  forces  of  France  and  Spain  to  destroy 
the  little  English  squadron  which  lay  in  the  harbor.  Six  great 
fireships,  laden  with  combustibles,  and  connected  with  iron  chains, 
were  drawn  up  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  floated,  in  the  middle  of 
a  dark  night,  and  with  a  favorable  wind,  into  the  bay,  and  steered 
against  the  ships  in  the  New  Mole,  while  three  others  were 
directed  against  other  points.  Behind  them  came  a  long  line  of 
row  boats  and  galleys  filled  with  armed  men,  and  these  in  turn 
were  supported  by  the  heavy  ships  of  the  Spanish  fleet.  The  first 
stage  of  the  enterprise  was  completely  successful,  and  it  was  only 
at  one  o'clock  in  the  morning  that  the  British  sailors  became 
aware,  by  the  sudden  glare  and  explosions,  of  the  danger  that 
was  bearing  down  upon  them.  With  great  quickness,  daring,  and 
presence  of  mind,  they  sprang  into  their  boats,  grappled  with 
the  burning  fireships,  towed  them  clear  of  the  English  vessels,  and 
thus  not  only  baffled  the  design  of  the  enemy,  but  obtained  in 
the  hulks  of  the  captured  ships  a  supply  of  fuel  for  which 
the   garrison    had    urgent    need. 

The  siege  was  brought  to  a  close  only  by  the  general  pacification 
which  occurred  in  1783.  Since  then  Gibraltar  has  been  left  undis- 
turbed in  the  hands  of  the  English  ;  and  it  is  essentially  an 
English  town.  A  garrison  is  established  there,  and  martial  law 
prevails,  the  whole  population,  both  civil  and  military,  being  sub- 
jected to  stringent  rules.  The  gates  are  shut  at  sunset,  and  a 
gun    is   fired    morning   and    evening. 

When  first  seen  from  the  sea,  the  great  rock,  one  thousand  four 
hundred  and  thirty  feet  high,  seems  to  rise  from  under  the 
waves,  for  the  land  about  it  is  so  low  that  it  appears  to  have  no 
connection  with  it.  It  looks  like  a  lion  asleep,  with  its  huge  head 
turned  towards  Africa. 


206 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


The  Cristoforo  Colon  came  to  a  full  stop  outside  of  Algeciras, 
and  small  boats  were  lowered,  and  others  seen  putting  forth  from 
that  small  town,  which  is  a  straggling  little  place  on  the  side  of 
the    smooth    bay   opposite    Gibraltar. 

The  Horners  were  not  going  to  stay  at  Gibraltar.  Two  of  the 
party  had  seen  the  place,  and  Miss  Lejeune,  who  was  one  of 
them,   advised   going   on   to    Malaga   in    the   same    steamer,  to   which 


THE  ROCK   OF  GIBRALTAR. 


Bessie  and  her  father  readily  agreed.  The  steamer  was  to  stay 
several  hours  at  her  moorings,  and  the  best  thing  for  the  Vaughans 
to  do  seemed  to  be  waiting  until  they  should  be  sent  for. 

And  there  was  not  long  to  wait,  for  soon  a  boat  approached  the 
side,  rowed  by  swarthy  Spaniards,  and  bringing  a  tall  gentleman, 
looking  about  fifty  years  old,  with  a  military  bearing,  and  a  grave 
countenance. 

Alas !  as  he  came  towards  them,  and  they  all  knew  he  must  be 
Colonel    Vaughan,    Miss    Lejeune    saw    at    a    glance,   that    his    hat  was 


A  NARROW  STRAIT.  207 

surrounded  by  black  crape.  Perhaps  Hubert  also  saw  this  ;  perhaps 
he  divined  what  had  happened  ;  for  as  he  darted  forward  to  meet 
his   father,    his   only   word    was : 

"  Mamma .? " 

There  was  no  way  to  soften  the  blow.  Colonel  Vaughan  bent 
down    towards    his    son,   and    said   in    a   low    tone : 

"My    dear   boy,    she   is   dead.     The    news    came   yesterday." 

Nana  was  the  only  one  who  began  to  sob.  Miss  Lejeune  led 
Bessie  and  Tommy  away,  and  Mr.  Horner  withdrew  also,  to  leave 
the    little    family    alone   with    their   grief. 

"I  cannot  bear  it!"  cried  Bessie.     "Aunt  Dut,    it  is  terrible." 

"Poor  Hubert,  poor  fellow  I "  said  Miss  Lejeune,  drying  her 
eyes. 

They  all  felt  keenly  for  the  Vaughans.  All  had  feared  from  the 
accounts  of  the  mother's  health,  that  she  could  not  live ;  but  so 
soon  !  they  had  not  anticipated  hearing  the  sad  message  while  they 
were    still    together. 

"  Only  yesterday  !  "  said  Mr.  Horner.  "  Perhaps  while  we  were 
so   merry   coming    from    Seville." 

After  a  suitable  interval,  Mr.  Horner  rejoined  the  group,  and 
now  Colonel  Vaughan,  with  a  strong  grasp  of  the  hand,  thanked 
him    warmly   for   his    kindness    to  his    children. 

"  I  fear  I  have  not  expressed  myself  well  in  writing,"  he  said. 
"  In  fact,  I  have  been  almost  distracted  by  my  dread  —  by  my 
knowledge,  indeed  —  of  what  was  to  come.  I  was  shocked  to  learn 
that  the  children  had  left  their  mother.  It  was  unwise.  She  might 
have  had  the  comfort  of  them,  and  they" —  He  could  not 
finish  his  sentence.  Miss  Lejeune  approached,  and  without  any 
introduction,    said  a   few   words    of  warm    sympathy. 

"Papa,"  said  Hubert,  "this  is  Tommy,  and  this  is  Bessie 
Horner." 

His  father  shook  hands  with  both,  but  Miss  Lejeune  could  not 
but   observe   that    he    took   hardly   any   notice   of  them. 

"Poor  man!"  she  thought;  "I  dare  say  he  has  not  given  a 
thought    to   our   party,  or   wondered   once  what   constituted    it.      How 


208 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


severely  we  judged  him  ;  and  yet  one  cannot  blame  him  now." 
Colonel  Vaughan,  almost  as  if  he  had  become  aware  of  what 
was  passing  in  her  mind,  made  an  effort  to  express  his  gratitude, 
and   some   interest   in    the   late   adventures    of  his    children. 


ROMAN   BRIDGE,   RONDA. 

"  I  am  glad  the  poor  things  have  had  the  pleasure  of  being 
with   you.     I   am   sure   they   have   enjoyed   it." 

"O,  papa,  we  have!"  exclaimed  Hubert,  his  face  lighting  up. 
"You  cannot  imagine  what  dear,  lovely  people  they  are,  and  how 
kind    they   have   been !  " 


THE  NARROW  STRAIT. 


209 


He  looked  round  at  them  all  in  tnrn,  as  if  wondering  what  he 
should  do  without  these  new  companions  who  had  become  already 
such    old   friends. 

"  I  fear  that  my  children  have  given  you  some  trouble, 
madam,"  went   on    Colonel  Vaughan. 

Miss  Lejeune   assured   him   that,  on   the   contrary,  Nana  had   made 
the    care   very   light    for    the    rest    of  them,    and    then,    to   cut  short 
these  interchanges  of  compliment,  she   looked  about   for  Nana.     They 
all  saw,  then,  how  the  nurse  had  with- 
drawn to   a   seat   apart,  and  was   cry- 
ing bitterly  with  her  face  in  her  hands. 
Fanny,  looking  pitiful  and  bewildered, 
was   holding   close    to    the   baby,    the 
only  one  of  the  group  unconscious  of 
its  loss. 

"  I  think  we  had  best  be  going," 
said  Colonel  Vaughan.  "  We  need 
not    detain    you   longer." 

In  a  short  time  the  parting  was 
over.  It  was  a  painful  one  on  all 
sides.  The  Vaughans  were  packed 
into  the  small  boat,  and  pulled  towards 
the  shore,  while  the  Horners  stood 
watching  them  from  the  deck  of  the 
steamer,  waving  handkerchiefs  damp 
with  tears.  Miss  Lejeune  was  in 
no  mood  for  sketching.  She  disappeared  below  to  the  ladies'  cabin, 
and  it  is  believed  surrendered  herself   to   a   good    cry. 

Before  dark  the  steamer  was  unloaded  and  reloaded,  her  anchor 
up,  and  steam,  and  they  were  off  again,  gliding  by  the  immense 
rock,  which  stood  out  in  superb  relief  against  a  glowing  evening 
sky.  After  dinner,  the  small,  sad  party  of  Horners  gathered  close 
together  on  deck,  for  it  was  cold,  and  tucked  themselves  tightly 
about    with    wraps   and   rugs. 

As   the   steamer    swept   along,   new   aspects   of    the   rock   unfolded 


SAFKTY   BOAT. 


210  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

themselves,  always  dark,  against  the  rich  background.  They  could 
half  make  out  the  forms  of  caves  and  openings  in  the  base  of 
the  cliff,  and  on  top,  the  flag-staff  stood  out  a  fine  line  against 
the    glow. 

The  solemn  beauty  of  the  evening,  and  the  sad  experience  of 
the  day,  made  it  a  memorable  occasion  which  often  came  back  to 
them.  They  talked  much  of  Hubert,  and  Miss  Lejeune  told  them 
all  he  had  said  of  his  mother  ;  and  they  spoke  gently  and  thought- 
fully about  her  death,  and  of  the  sweet,  strong  influence  the 
memory  of  his  mother  would  have  upon  the  boy,  to  make  him 
honest,  and  brave,  and  true,  all  his  life.  Tommy  was  silent  through- 
out.    His    heart   was    full    of  sorrow. 

It  was  much  later  than  his  usual  bed-time  when  they  all  with- 
drew together  for  the  night.  For  some  reason,  there  were  no 
separate  staterooms  to  be  had,  and  Bessie  and  Miss  Lejeune  there- 
fore shared  the  general  ladies'  cabin,  with  a  Spanish  lady  who  had 
a  wonderful  coiffure,  in  which  she  lay  down  that  night  and  rose 
the    next    morning. 

Just    as     he    was    going    to    sleep,    Mr.     Horner    was     roused     by 
Tommy's    voice,    in    a   berth   above   him. 
"Papa!" 
"  Well ! " 

"  You   did    not   see    the    monkeys  ! " 

"You  are  another,"  growled  his  parent;  "go  to  sleep." 
Hubert  had  described,  for  all  English  boys  have  heard  of,  the 
monkeys  who  live  on  the  Rock.  They  are  protected  by  strict 
laws,  and  are  much  talked  of,  but  seldom  seen,  inhabiting  the 
higher  and  eastern  part,  unless  they  are  driven  down  by  cold 
winds.  There  is  a  myth  that  their  ancestors  came  over  from 
Africa  in  days  when  an  isthmus,  instead  of  a  strait,  was  between 
the    two   countries ;   a   theory   not   impossible    to   entertain. 


MALAGA. 


211 


CHAPTER    XXV, 


MALAGA. 


B 


ESSIE  was  awake  at  dawn, 
and  looked  out  of  the  little 
round  port-hole,  as  well  as  she 
could,  which  was  close  by  her 
head,  in  the  hot,  stuffy  berth  of 
the  ladies'  cabin.  The  Andalu- 
sian  lady  was  still  asleep  in  a 
berth  below,  and  so  was  Miss 
Lejeune,  and  there  was  no  oc- 
casion for  stirring  yet ;  but  they 
must  have  reached  Malaga,  for 
the  ship  was  at  rest,  though  not 
quiet,  Men  were  trampling  about 
overhead,  tumbling  heavy  barrows, 
and  delighting,  apparently,  in  all 
those  noises  least  soothing  to 
sleepers   below. 

Bessie  climbed  softly  down  from 
her  high  perch,  and  as  she  had  slept  in  her  boots,  in  a  very  few 
minutes  was  ready  to  go  up  on  deck,  where  for  half  an  hour  she 
had  to  herself  a  lovely  scene ;  the  glowing  day  coming  slowly 
into  the  sky,  and  pouring  its  light  over  the  town,  which  was  close 
at   hand,  for  the   steamer  was  tied    up   to   the   pier. 

When  the  party  was  assembled,  they  left  the  boat,  and  walked 
across  the  Alameda  to  the  hotel,  baggage  following,  and  were 
before  long  established  in  comfortable  rooms,  with  baths  and  break- 
fast  to   follow. 


ARMS    OF    GRANADA. 


212 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


They  were  not  in  good  condition  for  enjoying  the  sights  of 
Malaga.  The  sad  scene  of  the  day  before  was  still  fresh  upon 
their  hearts.  Tommy,  especially,  missed  his  companion,  and  every 
moment  reminded  him  of  the  poor  little  fellow,  and  his  forlorn 
face  at  parting.  Miss  Lejeune  reported  that  she  had  passed  a 
vile  night  on  the  Cristoforo  Coloji,  and  Mr.  Horner  was  always 
somewhat  knocked  up  by  sea  excursions,  while  Bessie  was  by  ten 
o'clock    as   sleepy   as   a   cat,    after    her   early   ascent    upon   deck. 


THE  CATHEDRAL  AND    PORT  OF   MALAGA. 


As  they  were  loitering  over  coffee  at  that  hour, —  for  they  had 
not   succeeded   in  getting   it    sooner, —  Miss    Lejeune  said : 

"  Why  do  we  go  on  to  Granada  to-day .''  We  do  not  feel  like 
going  out  now  to  see  the  town.  We  might  all  try  the  very  attract- 
ive beds  which  I  have  been  regarding  with  longing,  and  see  Malaga 
by   and   by,   in   the   cool   part   of  the   day." 

"Very  good,"  said  Mr.  Horner;  "the  only  reason  for  pressing 
on    is, —  letters." 


MALAGA. 


213 


"  Yes,   letters !     It   is   an    age    since    we  have    had    any.     Still,    it 
will   make   only   one   day's   difterence." 

"  Do   stay,    papa,    I   am  so   sleepy !  "    said  Bessie. 

So    they   stayed    over    twenty-four    hours  at    Malaga,    which     they 


HANKS    OK    TllK    DARRO. 


had  not  intended  to  do,  thinking  it  not  an  especially  attractive 
town.  They  found,  however,  interesting  pictures  in  the  cathedral, 
and    in    the    hospitable    private    house   of    an    American    gentleman. 


214  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

living  in  Malaga,  the  most  beautiful  Alonzo  Cano  they  had  seen. 
Miss  Lejeune  was  delighted  with  it;  it  fulfilled  all  her  desire  to 
give   this    painter   a   high    place    among   the    Spanish    masters. 

The  Alameda,  or  shady  walk,  is  long  and  wide,  with  a  hand- 
some fountain,  said  to  have  been  ordered  by  Charles  the  Fifth, 
the  Emperor,  for  his  palace  at  Granada,  then  seized  by  Barbarossa, 
but     afterward   regained    by    the   Spaniards. 

"  How  do  you  feel,  Bessie,"  said  her  father,  as  they  were  stroll- 
ing along  under  the  trees  of  the  Alameda,  "at  hearing  of  your 
Barbarossa   down    here  ?  " 

"Is  it  not  wonderful,"  she  replied,  "when  we  thought  we  left 
him  sound  asleep  in  his  cavern,  waitmg  for  the  ravens  to  cease 
to  fly  around  the  mountain.  But,"  she  added,  "  I  cannot  be 
thinking  of  German  Emperors  now.  Only  think,  papa,  to-morrow 
we  shall  be  in  Granada,  and  need  attend  to  nothing  but  our  dear 
Moors." 

In  fact,  after  the  Horners  had  reached  Granada,  and  were  estab- 
lished in  the  Washington  Irving  Hotel,  all  their  previous  impres- 
sions of  Spain  grew  pale  before  the  charm  of  the  life  they  were 
now   beginning   upon. 

It  was  June ;  the  weather  was  lovely :  the  roses  and  pomegranates 
and  jasmines  were  in  perfection  of  bloom,  perfuming  the  air, 
nightingales  were  singing  everywhere,  and  the  sound  of  fountains 
and  falling  water  made  a  running  accompaniment  to  their  music ; 
in  short,  everything  was  in  harmony  with  the  romance  of  the 
Alhambra. 

North  of  Granada  rises  a  long  ridge  of  rocky  land  between  two 
rivers,  the  Darro  and  Xenil  ;  the  ridge  slopes  downwards  towards 
the  town,  intersected  by  a  long  avenue  of  elm-trees,  but  spreading 
out  near  the  top  into  two  tablelands,  or  broad  terraces,  bordered 
by  steep  ravines.  On  the  western  terrace  stands  the  Alhambra,  its 
base  washed  by  the  Darro.  On  the  eastern  one  stand  the  Ver- 
miUon  Towers,  beyond  which  the  land  slopes  more  gently  down 
into  the  precincts  of  the  town  of  Granada.  These  two  terraces 
were   formerly   girt    with    walls    and    towers,  and    connected    together 


^■^f'WK^^!'^^?^'*?^PB!P^?^ff^'!?PP!^r«g: 


^  ^j^3-3ap»e- SSBl  5 


s^^-^-il^^^-'^fe^^l^^^^^^J^^';^^^  


i'UERTA   DEL   VINO. 


>  J        J  3  J     J 


C    C  (, 


MALAGA.  217 

with    winding   lanes ;  and   within    the   circuit    thus   fortified,  stood    the 
palaces  and  villas    of  the  Caliphs   of    Granada,  as   well    as    their   chief 
fortresses ;   so   many   that    the    enclosure    was    called    a   city.       There 
were  other  villas  and  palaces  in   the  neighborhood,  but   the  Hadhira, 
or    court    of     the    Caliphs,    on    the   western    plateau,    and   within   the 
walls,  constituted  the  Alhambra   proper.      The  walls   and   their   enclo- 
sure   occupy   the   greater  part    of    this   terrace ;    but    there   is    some 
level  ground   outside,    and   this    has   been   availed   of    for   two    hotels, 
facing   each   other  upon  the   road  which   leads   to   the   grand   gate  of 
entrance  —  the   Siete   Suelos,   and    the   Washington   Irving.       Nothing 
could   be    more   charming    then    their    situation,  in    the   leafy  avenue, 
planted    by  tall    elms,  surrounded    by  their    own    gardens   and    those 
of  neighboring  villas,  overlooking,  on  one  side,  the  crumbling  orange- 
colored   walls   of    the   Alhambra,  and   on   the   other   a  view  extending 
to   the   snowy  slopes   of  the  Sierra .  Nevada.       There   is   but    little   to 
choose  between  the   two  hotels  ;  at  present,  they  are  both  well  kept ; 
the    Horners    were   advised,   in   Malaga,  to   take   the  Washington    Irv- 
ing,   and  a   sort    of    loyalty,  as    Americans,    to    the    name,    perhaps 
influenced   them   in    the   decision.       They  had   excellent  rooms   in   an 
angle    commanding    all    the    different    views    possible.        A    pleasant 
English  family  were  established   in  the  house ;    opposite,  at   the  Sieta 
Suelos,  a  gay  party   of  artists   were    coming  and   going,  and    in   the 
evenings  they  sat   before    the    door,   striking   the   guitar   and   singing 
Malagueiias.      This,  then,   was   the   culmination    of  the    Spanish   tour  ; 
with   everything  so  enchanting   around    them,  the    Horners    were   con- 
tent  to     let   the   time    slip   by  as    it   would,    seeing   and  enjoying  all, 
without   haste,  but  not  without   rest.      The  grounds   are   open   to   all, 
to   wander   about    at   will,   and   friendly  guides    are    at   hand   to   con- 
duct and   explain.  / 

First  of  all,  after  they  had  arrived  and  seen  how  delightful  it 
was,  came  their  thirst  for  letters  ;  and  Mr.  Horner  and  Tommy 
walked  down  into  the  town,  along  the  steep,  broad,  shaded  road, 
which  reminded  them  not  a  little  of  the  descent  from  Heidelberg 
Castle.  They  returned  in  several  hours,  hot,  and  out  of  breath  with 
coming  fast   up   the   height,  in    their  desire   to  share   the   big  budget 


218 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


from  America  and  Luz,  which  had  been  accumulating  at  the  bank- 
er's. Again  good  news  ;  everything  right  on  both  sides  of  the 
Atlantic ;  the    Pyrenees  party    still    without   events,  but   happy. 

"I     am     so   glad     mamma      keeps    perfectly    well!"     said    Bessie. 

This  sentence  betrayed  a  thought 
that  had  possessed  them  all  secretly 
since  hearing  the  death  of  Mrs. 
Vaughan ;  a  vague  .  dread  that 
something  might  be  wrong  with 
their    own   dear   ones. 

"  The  usual  amount  of  engage- 
ments and  marriages  in  America," 
remarked  Miss  Lejeune,  looking 
up   from    her   letters. 

"You  always  say  that,  aunt 
Dut,"  said  Tommy,  who,  having 
received  no  letters  of  his  own, 
was  hanging  round  to  pick  up 
intelligence  from  the  rest,  while 
they,  each  completely  absorbed  in 
his  or  her  own  budget,  paid  but 
little  attention  to  the  exclamations 
of    the    others. 

"Mary  has  had   a   telegram  from 
Mr.   Hervey,  to  say  he  had  reached 
i|    New  York!"  cried  Bessie. 

"Extravagant  man!'  said  Miss 
Lejeune,  putting  down  her  letter 
"  Only  two  words,  which  they  had 
agreed  upon  to  mean  all  right," 
went  on  Bessie.  "  She  don't  say 
what    they  were  !  " 

"  Well,  well,"  remarked  Miss 
Lejeune,  and  once  more  continued,  as  she  fumbled  with  the  sheets 
of   the   correspondence,    "  well,    well  !  " 


GYPSY   GIRL 


MALAGA.  219 

The  windows  were  opened  and  the  air  fluttered  lightly  about  the 
room.  A  dish  of  great  oranges  stood  on  the  table,  with  which 
Tommy  was  filling  up  his  time  and  stomach.  A  bunch  of  orange 
blossoms,  and  some  full-blown  roses,  were  tumbling  about  in  a 
goblet  where  Bessie  had  hastily  thrust  them,  as  she  came  in, 
hearing  the  good  news  that  letters  had  arrived.  All  Miss  Lejeune's 
sketching  materials  were  lying  on  a  chair  where  she  too  had 
dropped  them  when  Mr.  Horner  came  in.  Her  sketch  was  spoiled, 
for  the  orange  colored  wash  over  the  turrets  of  the  Siete  Suelos 
would  dry  before  she  could  finish  it.  No  matter ;  that  was  nothing, 
since    they    had    such   good    news. 

Bessie    finished   her  letters   and  went   to    the   window. 

•'  Let  us  send  for  mamma  and  Mary,  and  then  stay  here  for- 
ever!" she  said.     "I   see    no   reason  for  going  further." 

"And    Phil,"  said   Tommy. 

"Of  course  I  mean  Phil!  Come  here.  Tommy,  and  look  down 
at  this  gypsy  !  " 

Their  rooms  were  in  the  third  story,  so  that  they  overlooked 
the  narrow  terrace  garden  belonging  to  the  hotel.  They  saw  a 
girl  dressed  in  all  the  picturesque  garments  of  a  Spanish  gypsy, 
standing  with  a  jug  poised  on  her  head  in  an  attitude  for  a  model, 
while  a  young  lady  was  rapidly  sketching  her  in  charcoal.  The  artist 
was  surrounded  by  several  small  children  watching  her  work.  The 
gypsy  beamed  all  over  her  face,  with  vanity  and  satisfaction, 
evidently  thinking  that  her  personal  charms  had  recommended 
her. 

Tommy  said  softly,  "I  do  believe  that  is  the  American  girl  we  saw 
at    Irun   with    all   the   bags    and   umbrellas." 

"Where  can  she  have  been  since!"  exclaimed  Bessie ^  "and 
where   are   the    rest .-'  " 

As  the  Horners  were  entering  the  pleasant  dining-room  for 
almuerzo,  the  whole  force  of  waiters  and  maids  were  engaged  in 
speeding  the  parting  of  some  people  who  were  being  packed  into 
an    open    carriage   with    their   numerous    belongings. 

"  It  is   the   other    H's ! "    cried    Miss   Lejeune. 


220  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THKOUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 

THE  CONQUEST  OF  GRANADA. 

AFTER  the  middle  of  the  thirteenth  century,  the  constantly 
contracting  circle  of  Moorish  dominion  in  Spain  shrank  into 
the  narrow  limits  of  the  province  of  Granada.  Yet  on  this  com- 
paratively small  point  of  their  ancient  domain,  the  Saracens  erected 
a  new  kingdom  of  sufficient  strength  to  resist  for  more  than  two 
centuries,    the    united   forces   of  the    Spanish    monarchies. 

The  Moorish  territory  of  Granada  contained  within  a  circuit  of 
about  one  hundred  and  eighty  leagues,  all  the  physical  resources 
of  a  great  empire.  Its  broad  valleys  were  intersected  by  mountains 
rich  in  mineral  wealth,  occupied  by  a  robust  and  hardy  population. 
Its  pastures  were  fed  by  abundant  streams,  and  its  coasts  com- 
manded the  commerce  of  the  Mediterranean.  In  the  midst,  crown- 
ing the  whole,  rose  the  beautiful  city  of  Granada.  In  the  days  of 
the  Moors  it  was  encompassed  by  a  wall  flanked  by  a  thousand 
and  thirty  towers ;  and  above  it  rose  the  fortress  of  the  Alhambra, 
whose  magnificent  ruins  still  manifest  the  taste,  opulence,  and 
luxury  of  its  proprietors.  The  streets  are  represented  to  have 
been  narrow,  the  houses  lofty,  with  turrets  of  curiously  wrought 
larch  or  marble,  and  with  cornices  of  shining  metal,  that  glittered 
like  stars  through  the  dark  foliage  of  the  orange  groves ;  the  whole 
is  compared  to  "  an  enamelled  vase,  sparkling  with  hyacinths  and 
emeralds,"  in  the  florid  strains  of  Arabic  writers,  describing  the 
glories  of   Granada. 

At  the  foot  of  this  Aladdin's  palace,  lies  the  cultivated  plain 
called  the  vega,  so  celebrated  as  the  arena  for  more  than  two 
centuries  of   the   contests    between    Moor   and    Christian.     The  Arabs 


GATE   OF   JUSTICE,   ALHAMBKA. 


O  ,      J   J     •       » 


i  >       i       > 


,    >       '  "  >   \   '' 


THE  CONQUEST  OF  GKAXADA. 


223 


expended  upon  it  all  their  knowledge  of  cultivation.  The  waters 
of  the  Xenil  flowed  through  it  in  a  thousand  channels,  for  its 
perfect  irrigation.  A  constant  succession  of  fruits  and  crops  was 
obtained  throughout  the  year.  Products  of  opposite  latitudes  were 
transplanted  there  with  success.  The  hemp  of  the  North  flourished 
in  the  shadow  of  the  vine  and  the  olive.  The  seaports  swarmed 
with  traders  from  Europe,  Africa,  and  the  Levant,  so  t!iat 
"Granada  became  the  common  city  of  all  nations."  Such  was  the 
reputation  of  its  citizens,  that  "  their  bare  word  was  more  relied 
upon  than  a  written  contract  is  now  among  us,"  as  a  Spanish 
writer   says. 

The  sovereigns  of  Granada  were  often  distinguished  by  liberal 
tastes,  and  they  loved  above  all  the  display  of  a  princely  pomp. 
Each  day  presented  a  succession  of 
fetes  and  tournaments,  in  which  the 
knights  displayed  their  horseman- 
ship and  their  skill  in  the  feats 
peculiar  to  their  nation.  Life  was 
with  them  a  long  carnival  ;  but  the 
people  were  diligent,  industrious, 
and   honest. 

The  Moorish  and  Christian 
knights  were  in  the  habit  of  ex- 
changing visits  at  their  respective 
courts,  for  the  Spaniards  had  been 
gradually  rising  in  civilization  to  the 
level  of  their  enemies,  and  the  two  races  were  now  upon  a  foot- 
ing of  equality,  and  even  friendship ;  and  thus  the  Spanish  Arabs 
were   distinguished    by  the    same    qualities   as    the    Christian    knights. 

This  combination  of  Oriental  magnificence  and  knightly  prowess 
served  to  soften  the  defects  common  to  Mohammedan  institutions, 
and  enabled  the  reign  of  the  Moors  to  hold  out  against  the 
Christian  arms  for  so  long  a  time.  Moreover,  its  strength  lay  less 
in  its  own  resources,  than  in  the  weakness  of  its  enemies,  who, 
after    the     death     of    Saint     Ferdinand,     in     the     thirteenth     century, 


FERDIN.A.ND   AND    ISABELLA. 


224  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

became  more  and  more  divided  by  quarrels  amongst  themselves. 
But  tiie  union  of  all  the  provinces  by  the  marriage  of  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella,  put  an  end  for  the  time  to  such  dissensions.  No 
sooner  had  these  sovereigns  restored  internal  tranquility  to  their 
dominions,  and  made  the  strength  eftective  which  had  been 
acquired  by  their  union  under  one  government,  than  they  turned 
their  eyes  upon  that  part  of  Spain  over  which  the  crescent  had 
reigned  for  nearly  eight  centuries.  Amicable  relations  were  exist- 
ing between  the  Christian  princes,  and  the  rulers  of  Granada, 
until  1466,  when  the  Caliph,  who  at  that  time  succeeded  to  the 
throne,  resisted  the  payment  of  the  annual  tribute  imposed  on  his 
predecessors,  proudly  saying  that  "  the  mints  of  Granada  coined  no 
longer    gold,  but    steel." 

The  storm  burst  upon  a  small  town  called  Zahara,  which  was 
surprised  one  night  by  this  Moorish  monarch,  Muley  Abul  Hacen  ; 
who,  scaling  the  walls  under  the  favor  of  a  furious  tempest,  swept 
away  the  whole  population  of  the  place, —  men,  women  and  children, — 
in    slavery   to    Granada. 

The  Spaniards  soon  retaliated  by  seizing  the  ancient  city  of 
Alhama,  famous  for  its  baths,  and  the  favorite  resort  of  the  mon- 
archs  of  Granada,  embellished  with  all  the  magnificence  of  a  royal 
residence.  This  first  conquest  by  the  Christians  was  achieved 
with  a  gallantry  and  daring  unsurpassed  by  any  other  during  the 
war.  The  report  of  the  disaster  fell  like  the  knell  of  their  own 
doom    upon    the    Moors. 

Ay  de  mi,  Alhama  — 
Woe  is  me,  Alhama  — 

is  the  burden  of  the  melancholy  ballad  about  it.  But  the  intelligence 
spread  satisfaction  throughout  Castile,  and  was  especially  agreeable 
to  the  sovereigns.  After  learning  the  news,  a  chronicler  of  the 
time  says,  "  During  all  the  while  he  sat  at  dinner  the  prudent 
Ferdinand  was  working  in  his  mind  the  course  best  to  be  adopted." 
The  Moors  now  besieged  Alhama  in  their  turn,  and  for  more 
than    three    weeks    it   was   in    peril  ;    but    the    monarch    alarmed    by 


THE  CONQUEST  OF  GRANADA.  225 

seeing  Christian  reinforcements,  broke  up  his  encampment  and 
retreated  to  his  capital  ;  and  although  he  made  another  attempt  to 
regain  it,  the  Christians  took  possession  of  the  city,  and  entered 
it  with  great  ceremony.  The  mosques  were  purified  and  consecrated 
as  Christian  temples.  Isabella,  the  queen,  presented  bells,  crosses 
and  sumptuous  plate  to  show  that  she  entered  into  the  war 
through  zeal  for  the  true  faith.  The  army  was  enlarged,  and  she 
caused  a  fleet  to  be  manned,  to  sweep  the  Mediterranean  as  far 
as    the    Straits    of  Gibraltar. 

Thus  the  struggle  went  on  with  many  feats  of  daring  and 
bravery  on  both  sides.  The  names  of  the  heroes  who  fought  in 
this  prolonged  contest  are  among  the  most  famous  warriors  of  all 
time. 

Division  among  the  Moors  did  more  for  the  Christians  than 
any  successes  of  their  own ;  quarrels  between  the  women  of  the 
Alhambra  led  to  a  war  in  the  streets  of  Granada.  One  of  the 
wives  of  Abul  Hacen  lowered  her  son  in  a  basket  from  a  tower 
of  the  Alhambra,  to  save  him  from  the  jealousy  of  another 
sultana.  This  was  the  beginning.  Later,  the  father  was  expelled 
from  his  own  capital.  He  sought  refuge  in  Malaga,  which  still 
adhered  to  him,  with  some  other  places  of  importance,  while 
Granada,  and  by  far  the  larger  part  of  the  kingdom,  proclaimed  the 
authority  of  the  boy  who  escaped  in  the  basket  —  Abu  Abdallah,  or 
Boabdil,   as   he   is  usually   called. 

He  was  surnamed,  by  the  Spanish  writers,  "  El  Chico,'"  the  Little, — 
to  distinguish  him  from  another  Boabdil,  his  uncle,  —  and  "El  ZogoybV,' 
the  Unfortunate,  by  the  Moors,  as  the  last  of  his  race  destined  to 
wear  the  crown  of  Granada.  The  foolish  ambition  of  the  sultana, 
his  mother,  not  only  destroyed  the  future  of  the  son  she  quarrelled 
for,    but   brought    ruin    upon    the    Moorish    dynasty. 

Thus  the  war  went  on,  and  much  blood  was  shed  on  both 
sides.  Isabella  was  the  soul  of  the  contest.  She  sometimes  visited 
the  camp  in  person,  encouraging  the  soldiers  with  gifts  of  clothes 
and  money.  She  followed  the  army  from  place  to  place,  and  was 
with    the    camp    in    the    spring    of    149 1,    when    the    Spanish    army 


226 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


finally  sat  down  before  Granada,  not  more  than  six  miles  from  the  city. 
It  is  said  that  one  night  about  the  middle  of  July,  the  drapery 
of    Isabella's    tent   took    fire,   and    was    not    extinguished    until    several 


MOORISH   ARCHES. 


of  the  neighboring  ones  had  been  consumed.  The  queen  and  every- 
body else  escaped  unhurt  ;  but  the  accident  caused  Isabella  to 
determine  upon  building  a  safer  town,  which  was  finished  in 
less   than    three   months      It    was    called    Santa    Fe. 


DOS    HERMANAS,    ALHAMBRA. 


,.,     J  )  ) 


y  }       >  J     J 

i      3       >  >     3  > 

J   J  J     >  J     J 


THE  CONQUEST  OF  GRANADA.  229 

There  is  a  pretty  anecdote  of  Gonsalvo  of  Cordova,  the  Gran 
Capitan,  connected  with  this  event,  which  relates  that  when  he 
learned  how  the  fire  had  consumed  the  royal  tent,  with  the  greater 
part  of  the  queen's  clothing,  he  supplied  the  queen  so  amply  from 
the  splendid  wardrobe  of  his  wife,  as  led  Isabella  to  say  that  the 
fire  had  done  more  execution  in  his  castle  than  in  her  own 
quarters. 

Every  one  has  read  the  story  of  the  surrender,  in  Washington 
Irving's  Conquest  of  GraJiada.  The  besieged  city  was  suffering  the 
distress  of  famine.  Autumn  arrived,  a  rigorous  winter  was  approach- 
ing ;  the  people  sank  into  deep  despondency.  They  remembered 
that  Boabdil  had  been  pronounced  unfortunate  at  his  birth,  and 
they  recalled  that  the  fall  of  Granada  had  been  foretold  at  the 
time  of  the  capture  of  Zahara.  The  councillors  of  the  monarch 
said  "  Surrender ! "  they  declared  that  the  people  could  no  longer 
support    their   sufferings. 

Boabdil   el    Chico   yielded   to   the   general   voice. 

''Allah  achbar!  God  is  great,"  he  said.  "It  is  in  vain  to 
struggle    against    the   will    of   Heaven." 

The  capitulation  for  the  surrender  was  signed  on  the  twenty- 
fifth    of   November,    148 1. 

"  It  was  a  night  of  doleful  lamentings  within  the  walls  of  the 
Alhambra,  for  the  household  of  Boabdil  were  preparing  to  take  a 
last  farewell  of  that  delightful  abode.  Before  the  dawn  of  day,  a 
mournful  cavalcade  moved  obscurely  out  of  a  postern  gate  of  the 
Alhambra,  and  departed  through  one  of  the  most  retired  quarters 
of  the  city.  The  mother  of  Boabdil  rode  on  in  silence,  with 
dejected,  yet  dignified  demeanor;  but  his  wife  and  all  the  house- 
hold gave  way  to  loud  lamentations  as  they  gave  a  last  look  at 
the  mass  of  gloomy  towers  behind  them.  At  a  hamlet  at  some 
distance  from  the  city,  they  waited  until  they  should  be  joined  by 
the    king. 

"At  dawn  the  Christian  camp  was  in  motion,  and  a  body 
of  distinguished  cavaliers  proceeded  to  take  possession  of  the 
Alhambra.     The  Moorish   king  came  forth   from    the   gate    to   deliver 


230 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SFAIX. 


up  the  palace.  He  passed  mournfully  on  along  the  same  road  by 
which  the  cavaliers  had  come,  descending  to  the  Vega  to  meet  the 
Catholic    sovereigns.        The    troops   entered    the    Alhambra,    the    gates 


ARABESQUE,    IN   THE   ALHAMBRA. 

/ 

of  which    were    wide    open,    and    all    its    splendid    courts    and    halls 
silent   and    deserted. 

"  The  sovereigns  waited  below  with  impatience.  At  length  they  saw 
the  silver  cross  elevated  on  the  Torre  de  la  Vela,  and  beside  it  was 
planted  the  pennon  of  the   glorious  apostle  St.  James."  *  *  * 


THE  CONQUES  r  OF  GRANADA. 


231 


Having  surrendered  the  keys  to  the  sovereigns,  the  unfortunate 
Boabdil  joined  his  family.  At  two  leagues  distance  the  cavalcade 
ascended  an  eminence  commanding  the  last  view  of  Granada.  As 
they  arrived  at  this  spot,  the  Moors  paused  to  take  a  farewell 
gaze  at  their  beloved  city.  Never  had  it  appeared  so  lovely  in 
their  eyes.  While  they  yet  looked,  a  light  cloud  of  smoke  burst 
forth  from  the  citadel,  and  presently  a  peal  of  artillery,  faintly 
heard,    told   that   the    city    was    taken. 

The   heart   of   Boabdil    could    no   longer   contain    itself. 

"Allah  achbar !  God  is  great,"  he  said;  but  he  burst  into 
tears. 

His   mother,    indignant,    said : 

"You  do  well  to  weep  like  a  woman  for  what  you  failed  to 
defend   like   a   man." 

The  point  of  view  commanding  the  last  prospect  of  Granada, 
is  known  as  El  ultimo  sjispiro  del  Moro ;  or,  the  last  sjgh  of  the 
Moor. 


A  TLti..''--vt-J.<iVjO 


232 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER   XXVII. 


THE     ALHAMBRA. 


UNDER     the    Moors,    the    Alhambra    was    the    scene    of    many 
romantic     events,    the     legends     connected     with     which     still 
people   its    courts   with    phantoms. 

The   road    leading    up   from    the    hotel    to   the    entrance    is    shaded 
with     tall    trees,    and    water    trickles    down    the     side    making     the 


PLAN    OF   THE   ALHAMBRA. 


grass  fresh  and  green.  The  walls  are  of  a  beautiful  red  or  orange 
color,  which  is  shared  by  the  soil ;  this  alone  gives  a  glowing 
aspect  to  the  scene.  The  chief  place  of  entrance  (2  on  the 
plan)  is  called  the  Gate  of  Justice.  It  is  more  than  a  gate, 
being  a  square  tower,  the  upper  part  of  which  contains  rooms 
where  people  live.    Their  little   flower  pots  filled  with  bright  blossoms. 


THE  ALHAMBRA.  233 

Stand  on  the  ledge  of  the  window.  The  horseshoe  arch  of 
entrance  is  below ;  for  as  the  ground  is  terraced,  the  level  of  the 
palace  is  above  that  of  the  arch,  and  is  approached  by  an  ascent, 
and   a  staircase  within    the    tower. 

Over  this  arch  there  is  carved  an  outstretched  hand  pointing 
upward,  to  avert  the  evil  eye ;  over  the  second  one  a  key  is 
sculptured ;  a  symbol  of  the  power  of  the  prophet  to  open  and 
shut  the  gates  of  heaven.  The  passages  within  the  tower  wind 
about  under  several  arches,  until  they  lead  out  and  up  to  the 
walled-in  plateau,  on  which  the  Alhambra  stands.  A  little  farther 
on  is  another  gateway,  and  building,  called  the  Puerto  del  Vino  (3)  ; 
it   formerly   contained   a    Mihrab,    or    Moorish    chapel. 

From  the  high  terrace  near  these  two  gates,  is  a  lovely  view 
across  the  deep  ravine  to  the  Sierra  Nevada,  always  slightly 
touched  with  snow,  and  taking  on  beautiful  lights,  according  to  the 
time  of  day ;  dark  blue  in  the  morning,  and,  as  evening  approaches, 
roseate ;  for  in  addition  to  the  sunset  tints,  the  natural  color  of 
the  soil  and  stone  make  the  tone  of  the  range  warm  and  rich. 
Here  opens  a  large  plaza,  called  the  Place  of  the  Cisterns,  on  one 
side  of  which  is  the  Alcazaba,  or  fortress,  with  its  dismantled  castle  (5), 
while  opposite  it  appears  the  palace  of  Charles  the  Fifth  (6),  which 
he  began  to  build,  but  never  finished.  He  destroyed  the  greater  part 
of  the  beautiful  winter  palace  of  the  Moors,  to  make  room  for  his 
own,  and  afterward  abandoned  his  plan,  leaving  the  unfinished 
ruin,  with  open  arches,  staring  to  the  sky.  It  is  said  that  earth- 
quakes discouraged  him  from  going  on  with  his  palace.  There  are 
planted  garden  beds,  and  walks  leading  along  the  side  of  it,  to  a 
plain,  unadorned  wall,  through  which  a  door  leads  to  the  real 
glories   of  the   Alhambra. 

Here   found   themselves   one   morning,    Mr.    Horner   and    Miss   Le- 

jeune,  Bessie  and  Tommy  ;  Bessie  grumbling,  as  usual,  at  Charles  the 

Fifth,  and  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  who  have  left  their  traces  so  often 

in  the   destruction   of  Moorish   ornament. 

"  I  do  believe,"  said  Bessie,   "  that  Isabella  herself  rode  on  a  white- 
♦ 
wash   brush  ! " 


234 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


COURT   OF   MYRTLES. 


"  Perhaps  she  was 
the   old  woman  — 

Old  woman,  said  I, 

To  sweep  the  cobwebs 

from  the  sky  !  " 

said  Tommy. 

They  passed  on 
through  the  gate. 
Charles  the  Fifth 
and  Isabella  were  for- 
gotten. The  transi- 
tion was  magical ;  they 
felt  at  once  trans- 
ported into  other 
times,  and  were  tread- 
ing the  scenes  of  the 
Arabian  Nights.  They 
were  in  the  Court  of 
Myrtles,  a  long,  open 
patio  (7),  of  which 
the  floor  is  taken  up 
by  an  immense  basin, 
more  than  a  hundred 
feet  long,  bordered  by 
myrtle-trees  and  roses. 
It  is  surrounded  by 
a  light  arcade  of 
Moorish  columns,  and 
at  the  upper  end 
rises  the  great  Tower 
of  Comares.  (8)  The 
pillars  here  and  else- 
where are  of  extreme 
lightness,  and  the  or- 


>  i 


J    ,  )  »  '        >     1    ,  >  J    J,        3 


3    3  3  )        J 


'      1     J        )  J        ) 


J     J  ; ,  J 


THE  ALHAMBRA.  237 

namentation  of  the  capital  varies  in  each ;  slender  arches  spring 
from  the  capitals,  and  bend  gracefully  till  they  meet.  A  dado  of 
azulejos,  or  colored  tiles,  runs  along  the  wall,  from  the  floor,  of 
brightest  colors,  with  great  variety  of  patterns.  The  eye  is  never 
tired  of  following  these  designs,  nor  those  of  the  arabesque  work 
above,  into  which  are  woven  Arabic  sentences,  in  the  graceful  let- 
tering of  that  language.  Across  the  water  is  seen  the  vista  made 
by  the  entrance  to  the  Hall  of  Ambassadors  (9),  the  chief  room  of 
the  Tower  of  Comares.  The  tower  and  its  colonnades  are  reflected 
in   the   clear  still   water   of  the   pool. 

"Oh,  how  lovely!"  exclaimed  Miss  Lejeune.  "This  surpasses  all 
my   dreams  of  it." 

"Let   us   stay   here,   and   not   go   any  further  to-day!"  said  Bessie. 

Tommy  was  well  content  to  study  the  goldfish  in  the  clear 
water,  rather  startled,  as  he  leaned  over,  to  catch  the  perfect  reflec- 
tion of  his  own  face  on  the  surface  of  the  pool,  with  behind  it 
an  intensely  blue  sky  studded  with  woolly  white  clouds.  He  looked 
up  instinctively,  and  saw  above  the  graceful  fretwork  of  the  court, 
the    real   bright   sky   and    clouds,   just   like   the   mirrored   ones, 

"  Our  guide  apparently  expects  us  to  move  on,"  remarked  Mr. 
Horner.  "  We  can  let  him  gallop  us  through  once,  and  then  come 
at   our  leisure   as   often   as   we   like." 

"  Not  gallop  us,  papa,"  said  Bessie,  taking  hold  of  his  hand ; 
"  a   quiet   little    trot   will    satisfy   him." 

They  were  led  into  the  Court  of  Lions  (10),  where  Bessie  was  at 
once  in  love  with  the  somewhat  clumsy  animals  of  Arab  origin, 
that    form   the   group   of  the   fountain    in    the    centre. 

"  I  must  embrace  this  one  ! "  she  cried,  and  did  so,  to  Tommy's 
disgust  and  mortification.  He  looked  round  to  see  if  there  were 
any   observers. 

These  lions  must  not  be  looked  at  as  efforts  of  sculpture  to 
represent  accurately  the  king  of  beasts,  but  as  emblems  of  strength 
and  courage.  They  are  of  white  marble,  with  manes  like  the  scales 
of   a   griffin,    and    water   comes   from    their   mouths. 

The  hall  of  the  Abencerrages  (11)  leads   from  the  Court  of  Lions. 


238  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIX. 

Its  name  comes  from  the  legend  that  Boabdil,  the  last  king  of 
Granada,  invited  the  chiefs  of  this  line  to  a  banquet,  and  had 
them  taken  out,  one  by  one,  after  the  feast,  through  a  small 
wicket,  to  the  fountain  of  the  Court  of  Lions,  where  they  were 
beheaded  ;  a  massacre  which  contributed  to  his  ruin,  as  they  were 
the  main  support  of  his  kingdom,  and  had  helped  to  put  him  on 
his   throne.      The    stains    of  their    blood    are    still    pointed    out. 

"Does  not  that  shake  your  faith  in  Boabdil,  Bessie?"  asked  her 
father,    when    they    were    listening    to    this    tale    of   the    guide. 

"  I  do  not  believe  a  word  of  it !  "  said  Bessie  indignantly. 
"  Boabdil  would  not  have  been  such  a  fool,  and  I  have  great 
doubts    as   to    the    existence    of  the    Abencerrages  ! " 

The  guide,  however,  to  enforce  the  story,  told  how  there  was 
often  heard  at  night,  in  the  Court  of  Lions,  a  low,  confused 
murmur,    with   the    distant    clanking   of  chains. 

The  Abencerrages  were  a  family  or  faction  said  to  hold  a  promi- 
nent position  in  the  Moorish  kingdom  of  Granada  in  the  thirteenth 
century.  The  name  appears  to  have  been  derived  from  one  Yussuf 
ben  Serragh,  the  head  of  the  tribe  in  the  time  of  Mohammed  the 
Seventh,  who  did  that  sovereign  good  service  in  his  struggles  to 
retain  the  crown  of  which  he  was  three  times  deprived.  Nothing 
is  known  of  the  family  with  certainty,  but  the  name  is  familiar  in 
romance. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Court  is  the  Hall  of  the  Two 
Sisters  (14),  paved  with  white  marble  and  beautifully  incrusted 
with  tiles.  It  leads  to  the  Mirador  of  Lindaraxa,  a  smaller  room, 
containing  a  window  with  a  double  Moorish  arch  which  opens  upon 
a  patio  full  of  orange-trees.  The  bright  sunlight  glanced  upon  the 
ripe  fruit  and  shining  leaves  without,  and  the  arabesque  work 
framed  the  scene  like  a  picture.  This  was  one  of  the  women's 
apartments.  The  name  is  from  two  marble  slabs  of  equal  size  in 
the   pavement,    which    are    called    the   Two    Sisters. 

Another  room  leading  from  the  Court  of  Lions  (12)  contained 
some  strange  pictures,  painted  on  the  ceiling,  which  interested  both 
Bessie   and    Miss   Lejeune.     It    is    a    question    how   they    come    to   be 


1  *  '      y     >         3J333J 


THE  ALHAMBRA.  241 

there,  and  who  painted  them,  for  the  Moors  were  forbidden  by  the 
Koran  to  represent  living  subjects.  A  French  writer  imagines  that 
John  Van  Eyck  went  to  the  Alhambra  in  1428,  and  that  he 
painted  for  the  Moorish  kings.  The  subjects  are  singular,  and 
hard  to  make  out,  especially  as  they  could  only  be  seen  in  a 
very    uncomfortable   position    for    the    head. 

Bessie  liked  to  imagine  that  a  Caliph  had  employed  some  great 
Christian  artist  to  come  and  paint  for  him  ;  perhaps  even  a  Bel- 
lini, from  Venice  ;  but  Miss  Lejeune  pronounced  the  work  to  be 
of   later   date,  and    more   likely  after   the    conquest    of   the    Moors. 

The  two  stayed  so  long  that  they  found  themselves  alone,  and 
hastened  to  regain  the  others,  who  had  retraced  their  steps  through 
the    Myrtle    Court   to   the    Hall    of    the    Ambassadors. 

This  is  the  largest  in  the  Alhambra,  and  occupies  all  the  Tower 
of  Comares.  It  is  a  great  square  room,  high  to  the  centre  of  the 
dome.  It  was  the  grand  reception  room,  and  the  throne  of  the 
Caliph  was  placed  opposite  the  entrance.  Now,  like  all  the  other 
rooms,  it  is  bare :  the  imagination  has  to  furnish  them  all  with 
thrones,  divans,  and  rich  couches  and  cushions,  as  well  as  with  little 
feminine   trifles   for   the    niches,  such    as    vases,  and    trinkets. 

The  walls  are  so  thick  that  the  windows  make  deep  recesses, 
from  which  are  lovely  views  across  the  Vega,  and  towards  the 
other  buildings  of  the  enclosure.  It  is  from  one  of  these  windows 
that  Ayeshah,  the  mother  of  Boabdil,  is  said  to  have  lowered  him 
in   a   basket   to    save    his  life. 

The  little  group  stood  in  the  middle  of  the  hall,  listening  to  the 
guide's  explanations.  When  he  turned,  however,  to  lead  them 
further,  Bessie  sat  resolutely  down  in  the  embrasure  of  a  window, 
saying : 

"  I  can  no  more !  I  have  seen  enough  for  one  time ;  my 
head    is   bewildered,  my  legs   are   tired,"  — 

"  And  you  are  hungry ! "  finished  her  father,  taking  out  his 
watch.  "  I  suspect  that  is  the  case  with  all  of  us,  and  that  we 
have  done  enough  for  once.  Ah,  yes  ;  high  noon,  and  high  time 
for   almuerzo." 


242 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


And  so  they  explained  their  wishes  to  the  guide,  who,  accus- 
tomed to  driving  a  swarm  of  visitors  before  him,  as  flies  are 
urged  on  by  a  whisk,  was  amazed,  and  fancied  they  were  bored ; 
he  began  a  sort  of  an  apology  for  the  nature  of  the  entertain- 
ment. 

"  It  is  because  we  enjoy  it  so  much  that  we  want  to  keep  the 
rest  for  another  time,"  said  Miss  Lejeune,  in  elegant  Castilian. 
Either  the  Castilian,  or  the  sentiment,  was  not  fully  understood  by 
the  man,  who  still  appeared  downcast;  but  he  understood  a  peseta 
which  Mr.  Horner  put  in  his  hand,  and  consented  to  show  them 
the  shortest   way   out. 

The  sun  glared  bright  on  the  plaza,  but  the  shady  road 
outside  the  walls  was  cool  and  perfumed,  and  a  few  steps  brought 
them   to   the  hotel. 


A^JJvEMT    IX  THE  .</n.l.AC£_: 

"       ^  I  lit  J>0«KtrS3l£«Trt 


MOKE  OF  THE  ALHAMBRA.  243 


CHAPTER   XXVIII. 


MORE     OF    THE     ALHAMBRA. 


THE  ground  the  Horners  had  been  over  that  morning  in- 
ckided  the  greater  part  of  the  palace  of  the  Alhambra  ;  there  was 
still  left  the  suite  of  rooms  devoted  to  the  bath  by  the  Moorish  pos- 
sessors of  the  place  (13).  It  contains  preparations  for  every  luxury 
connected  with  bathing ;  raised  niches  for  couches,  with  cushions, 
fountains,  balconies  for  music,  which  they  enjoyed  after  the  bath, 
and    baths    themselves,    of  white   marble. 

Day  after  day  the  Horners  visited  the  palace.  It  became  their  habit 
to  meet  in  the  Court  of  Lions  after  their  sketching  or  exploring  in 
other  places  was  over.  There  was  nothing  to  prevent  Bessie  from 
wandering  by  herself  all  over  the  pile  of  buildings,  and  this  she 
greatly  enjoyed,  though  sometimes  a  little  puzzled  by  the  windings 
she  discovered  in  the  lower  regions,  underneath  the  Tower  of 
Comares,  where  there  are  some  long  dark  passages.  She  loved  to 
sit  in  the  small  garden  of  Linderaxa,  shut  in  on  all  sides  by  col- 
umns and  walls.  It  is  full  of  orange-trees,  the  same  that  are  seen 
from  the  Mirador  of  Linderaxa,  and  in  the  middle  of  them  is  a 
fountain.  Here  she  liked  to  bring  Irving's  Alhambra ;  it  was 
just  the  place  to  read  his  legends  of  its  first  inhabitants.  She 
only  wished  that  he  had  recorded,  or  invented,  more  of  them ;  for 
every  nook  suggests  a  mystery.  Who  was  Linderaxa  for  whom  the 
beautiful  mirador  was  named,  and  who  used  to  wander  in  the  little 
garden,  and  what  was  her  fate .-'  Did  she  live  and  die  happy,  or 
did  she  pine   away  ? 

Bessie  envied  the  experiences  of  Mr.  Irving,  who  lived  in  rooms 
actually  within  the  palace  precincts.  He  had  the  place  all  to  him- 
self,   and   learned   to   know  it  before  the    great  band   of  tourists   had 


244 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


M.AMAMAAM'^A/IMAM 


invaded  the  spot,  or  guide-books,  with  their  convenient  gossip,  laid 
bare  the  secrets  of  the  Alhambra.  But  she  had  the  consolation  of 
knowing  that  it  is  now  in  far  better  condition  than  in  Irving's 
time. 

Early  in  the  century,  the   Alhambra  was    in    a  state  of   ruin,   from 

neglect.  The  governor's  wife  kept 
her  donkey  m  the  chapel,  and  used 
one  of  the  patios  for  a  sheep-pen. 
Afterwards  the  place  was  turned 
into  barracks,  and  the  blue  and 
white  pavements  of  the  courts 
were  torn  up.  The  French,  in 
1 8 12,  ruined  the  towers  and  blew 
up  several  of  them,  among  others 
the  beautiful  Siete  Suelos,  in  order 
that  the  Alhambra  might  be  use- 
less thereafter  as  a  fortress,  and  car- 
ried off  all  that  was  portable  within 
the  walls. 

In  those  days  the  Court  of  Lions 
was  encumbered  with  rubbish.  The 
animals  were  tumbled  down  on  the 
ground.  It  was  a  woman  named 
Tia  Antonia,  described  by  Irving, 
who  restored  it.  She  was  permitted 
to  make  a  living  by  showing  the 
gardens,  and  she  set  the  lions  on 
their  legs,  cleared  away  the  rubbish, 
and  did  her  best  to  make  improve- 
ments. In  spite  of  her  efforts, 
and    some    trifling     restorations     by 


i,.\  I  l<.\M:h    TD    ilALL    UF    A.MUASbAUURS. 


authorities,  neglect  ruled.  Several 
slight  earthquakes  added  to  the  rum.  At  length,  in  1862,  Queen 
Isabella  the  Second,  mother  of  the  present  king,  who  was  herself  then 
on  the  throne,  made  a  visit  to  Granada,  and  shocked,  we  may  suppose, 


MORE  OF  THE  ALHAMBKA.  245 

at  the  discreditable  condition  of  the  greatest  glory  of  her  kingdom, 
she  commissioned  Sefior  Contreras,  a  gentleman  of  learning  and  ability, 
to  repair  the  palace  of  the  Moorish  kings,  beginning  at  her  own  ex- 
pense. He  lives  on  the  spot,  and  is  still  at  work,  gradually  restor- 
ing here  and  there,  with  great  taste  and  judgment,  the  different 
halls,  reproducing  the  original  design  where  it  was  lost,  but  never 
making  new  innovations.  His  work  has  the  fault,  perhaps,  of  look- 
ing too  fresh  and  modern,  but  this  cannot  be  avoided ;  and  there  is 
so  much  of  the  old  left  that  the  two  help  each  other,  and  work 
together   to   give   a   true   impression   of   the    ancient   Alhambra. 

Another  of  Bessie's  favorite  retreats  was  the  Mirador  de  la  Reina 
(15),  which  is  reached  by  a  long  corridor  from  the  Hall  of  Am- 
bassadors. It  contains  the  prettiest  little  tocador  imaginable,  with 
arched  windows  on  all  sides,  as  open  as  a  summer  house,  with 
superb  views  ;  for  here  the  bluff  is  very  steep,  and  falls  off  to  the 
valley  of  the  river.  Tocador  means  dressing-room ;  the  guide  called 
It  in  his  rudimentary  English,  "  combing-house,"  and  Bessie  and 
Tommy  always  spoke  of  it  as  the  combing-house.  It  is  not  more 
than  nine  feet  square ;  in  one  corner  is  a  marble  slab  drilled  with 
holes,  through  which  perfumes  used  to  be  wafted  up  from  below 
during  the   toilet  of   the    sultana. 

This  pretty  little  place  is  said  to  have  been  refitted  by  Italian 
artists  in  the  early  part  of  the  last  century,  when  Philip  the  Fifth, 
the  Bourbon,  brought  his  queen,  Isabella  of  Parma,  to  the  Alhambra. 
This  brilliant  royal  party  brought  back  a  transient  gayety  and 
loveliness  to  the  scene ;  since  then  its  courts  have  been  silent 
and    deserted    by  royalty. 

From  the  narrow  balcony  which  surrounds  the  combing-house, 
the  palace  and  gardens  of  the  Generalife  are  seen.  Between  them 
and  the  Alhambra  is  a  narrow  gorge.  The  children  found  that  by 
scrambling  down  from  a  gate  below  the  tower  of  Comares,  they 
reached  a  path  leading  along  the  walls  on  the  outside  quite 
around  the  fortifications,  by  which  they  could  regain  the  road 
leading  down  from  the  Generalife  to  their  hotel.  The  path  was 
rough,  and  furrowed   by  channels,    where,    in    rainy    weather,    streams 


246 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


EL   MIRADOR    DE    LA    REINA. 


must  pour  through. 
It  was    chiefly    fre- 
quented   by  gypsies 
passing      up     from 
their  quarter,  flocks 
of    sheep,    or    little 
parties  of  donkeys  ; 
but  the  steep  sides 
of    the   gorge   were 
sprinkled   with  wild 
flowers,      and      the 
yellow  red  walls   of 
the      fortress      rose 
high,  with  here  and 
there  a  square  tower, 
overshadowed       b  y 
trees  growing  within 
the  enclosure,  which 
at    this     end    is     a 
deserted,    uncultiva- 
ted    field      overrun 
with  weeds,  though 
pomegranates  strug- 
gle up  uncared  for, 
covered    with    their 
gorgeous    scarlet 
blossoms.      One    of 
these  square  towers 
is   the    Torre  de  las 


MOKE  OF  THE  ALHAMBRA.  247 

Infantas,  once  the  residence  of  Moorish  princesses,  and  the  scene 
of  Irving's  pretty  tale  about  Zohra,  Zorayda,  and  Zorahayda.  Senor 
Contreras  has  recently  been  restoring  its  mosaics,  arabesques,  and 
azulejos.  He  has  made  a  spick  and  span  new  little  Moorish 
retreat  of  it,  which  might  make  one  long  to  be  a  Moorish 
princess,  with    all   the   modern    improvements. 

An  arch  over  the  children's  favorite  path,  built  by  Charles  the  Fifth, 
is  modern,  and  has  not  the  Moorish  curve.  It  is  now  overgrown  with 
ivy,  and  is  crumbling  in  parts,  so  that  it  has  as  much  the  air  of 
antiquity  as  the  rest.  It  is  said  that  Charles  the  Fifth  abandoned 
his  palace  on  account  of  the  earthquakes  which  visited  it  from 
time  to  time. 

"Those  earthquakes  that  frightened  Charles  the  Fifth,  were  only 
Boabdil  shaking  the  ground  from  beneath,"  said  Bessie,  "to  drive  him 
off  When  the  Moors  return,  they  do  not  wish  to  find  Christian 
architecture    usurping   the   place    of  their   palaces." 

The  legend  says  that  when  the  Moors  were  driven  out  of  Gra- 
nada, only  phantoms  vanished  in  ships  over  the  sea  to  Morocco.  The 
real  ones  were  swallowed  up  in  the  mountain  upon  which  the  Al- 
hambra  stands,  and  there  they  sit,  in  silent  state,  awaiting  the 
restoration   of  their   kingdom. 

"  Is  it  not  comforting  to  think  of  them  down  there  now } "  said 
Bessie. 

"  Is  there  any  telephonic  communication,  do  you  think,  between 
them   and  Barbarossa  in  his   mountain  } "  asked   her  father. 

"  Communication,  but  not  telephonic,"  replied  Bessie,  readily  accept- 
ing his  question.  "  The  ravens  carry  messages  to  the  storks,  and 
so  they  hear  twice  a  year,  when  the  storks  pass  over  and  back. 
It  is  not  so  swift  as  the  telegraph,  but  they  hear  often  enough, 
as   there   is   nothing   much   to   tell." 

The  Siete  Suelos,  one  of  the  prettiest  bits  of  ruin,  has  its  legend 
also,  according  to  which,  underneath  it  sit  two  Moors  guarding  a 
heavy  coffer  full  of  Arabic  coins  and  rich  jewels.  This  tower,  as 
has  been  said,  is  just  opposite  or  behind  the  two  hotels.  The 
other  little  towers  (17,  etc.)  upon  the    battlements,  are  in   process   of 


248  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN". 

restoration   by  Senor    Contreras,  and  contain   the    same   beautiful   ara- 
besque and   mosaics. 

Tlie  favorite  resort  at  sunset  is  the  Torre  de  la  Vela,  reached  by 
passing  through  the  gateway  of  the  Alcazaba  (s),  and  along  a  brick- 
laid  garden  walk  upon  the  lofty  terrace  called  the  Adarves,  laid 
out  upon  the  line  of  bastions ;  a  sheer  descent  into  the  valley  be- 
low. This  narrow  terrace  is  planted  with  roses,  jasamine,  magnolia, 
and  all  manner  of  garden  flowers.  The  platform  at  the  foot  of  the 
Torre  de  la  Vela  is  a  mass  of  brilliant  geraniums ;  many  vines, 
one    with   pale    blue   blossoms,  cling   to    the   walls. 

The  panorama  from  the  top  of  this  tower  is  glorious.  Below  lies 
Granada,  and  beyond  it  stretches  the  vega,  thirty  miles  in  extent, 
and  hemmed  in  by  a  wall  of  mountains  in  every  direction.  It  is 
scattered  over  with  villages ;  every  foot  of  its  soil  has  its  battle 
and    its    ballad. 

The  Torre  de  la  Vela,  or  Watch  Tower,  is  so  called  because 
here  hangs  a  bell  intended  to  be  struck  once  every  five  minutes, 
from  nine  in  the  evening  until  four  in  the  morning.  The  bell  is 
also  rung  on  the  second  of  January,  the  anniversary  of  the  day, 
1492,  when  the  Christian  flag  was  first  unfurled  by  Cardinal 
Mendoza,   after   the   surrender   of   Granada. 

At  sunset  the  snowy  tops  of  the  Sierra  glow  with  warm  tints  ; 
darkness  slowly  creeps  over  the  plain,  anti  if  the  mocn  is  full,  the 
effect  is  wonderful.  One  evening,  careless  of  dinner,  our  party 
lingered  to  watch  the  fading  of  daylight,  and  afterwards  went  back 
to  the  Court  of  Lions,  to  get  the  effect  of  moonlight  among  the 
arches  of  the  Alhambra,  They  had  to  wait  a  long  time  for  the 
moon  to  be  high  enough  in  the  heavens  to  throw  any  light  down 
upon  the  courts.  The  darkness  was  vague  and  mysterious.  They 
sat  upon  the  low  steps  of  the  courtyard,  leaning  against  the 
slender  pillars;  talked  in  low  voices,  of  the  Moors,  and  their 
shadows,   which    might    be    moving    about  them. 

Suddenly  a  shaft  of  light  shot  across  the  patio.  The  moon  had 
climbed  the  wall,  and  soon  its  yellow  light  flooded  the  opening, 
and    made   sharp-cut   shadows    upon    the    pavement. 


THE  GENERALIFE.  249 


CHAPTER   XXIX. 


THE     GENERALIFE. 


DURING  the  rest  of  their  stay,  the  Horners  felt  very  learned 
as  to  the  situation  of  the  different  places  of  interest  about 
the  Alhambra,  and  could  find  their  way  about  without  any  guide. 
They  had  procured  a  general  permission  to  wander  over  the 
gardens  of  the  Generalife,  and  here  soon  Bessie  and  Tommy 
established  a  habit  of  spending  the  morning.  Tommy  missed 
Hubert  so  much,  that  his  usual  high  spirits  forsook  him  for  a 
time ;  instead  of  forming  his  own  plans,  and  disappearing  from 
the  family  to  carry  them  out,  as  he  used  to  when  Hubert  was 
on  hand  to  share  them,  he  stuck  close  to  Bessie,  who,  indeed, 
was  very  glad  of  the  change  from  Fanny  Vaughan,  who  had 
proved  a  dull  and  listless  child,  to  Tom,  always  wide  awake, 
and  an  entertaining  companion.  The  brother  and  sister,  in  fact, 
were  now  becoming  intimate  for  the  first  time ;  for  Tom  had  taken 
the  sudden  jump  from  a  little  boy,  petted  and  laughed  at,  to  a 
manly  fellow  with  opinions  to  be  respected.  The  absence  of  Philip, 
like  taking  a  weight  off  a  growing  plant,  made  him  shoot  up  inde- 
pendently.    He    was   already    almost   as    tall    as    Bessie. 

A  road  from  the  Siete  Suelos,  turning  off  near  the  beautiful 
arch  of  Charles  the  Fifth,  leads  to  the  palace  and  gardens  of  the 
Generalife.  They  belong  to  the  Marquis  of  Campotejar,  better 
known  as  one  of  the  Grimaldi  Pallavicini  of  Genoa,  a  Moorish 
race,  descended  from  an  uncle  of  Boabdil,  Cidi  Aya,  who  became 
a  Christian,  and  was  then  called  Don  Pedro ;  to  him  the  Gener- 
alife was  given  at  the  time  of  the  conquest  of  Granada.  Thus 
it    is    that    Boabdil's    sword    is    in    the     possession     of     the      family. 


250  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

Probably  none  of  the  present  members  of  it  have  ever  seen  their 
lovely  estate  in  Granada.  They  possess  several  splendid  palaces  in 
Italy,  but  none  can  rival,  for  romantic  association  and  lofty 
position,  their    Spanish    castle. 

The  long  garden  walks  are  lined  with  oleanders,  tall  cypress-trees, 
and  hedges  of  myrtle.  Through  these  the  entrance  is  reached,  a 
door  in  a  blank  wall,  which  leads  into  a  patio  with  a  garden, 
through  which  a  canal  flows  under  evergreen  arches,  formed  by  yews 
twisted  and  cut  into  odd  patterns.  A  long  gallery  with  slender  pil- 
lars and  arches  runs  along  the  left,  from  which  the  Alhambra  is 
seen,  close  at  hand,  across  the  deep  ravine.  The  gardens  of  the 
Generalife  are  a  series  of  terraces.  By  broad  steps,  one  plateau 
after  another  is  reached,  up  to  the  highest  point  where  a  mirador 
crowns  the  slopes.  The  view  is  very  wide.  The  whole  ground-plan 
of  the  Alhambra  fortress  can  here  best  be  seen  and  understood,  and 
the  marvellous  range  of  the  snow-capped  Sierra  Nevada.  The  Court 
of  Cypresses  forms  a  part  of  one  of  the  terraces.  It  is  square, 
with  a  pond  in  the  centre,  surrounded  by  hedges  of  roses,  and  a 
row  of  immensely  tall  cypresses,  one  of  them  called  the  Cypress  of 
the  Sultana ;  said  to  have  been  two  centuries  old  in  the  time  of 
Boabdil.  The  trellised  grapevines  also  date  back  to  the  time  of 
the  Moorish  kings,  as  their   stems,  thick   like  a  tree,  readily  suggest. 

In  the  house  the  ornamentation  is  almost  hidden  by  whitewash. 
There  are  some  pictures  in  the  principal  hall,  interesting  histor- 
ically, not  as  works  of  art.  Among  them  hangs  the  portrait  of 
Boabdil,  el  Rey  Chico,  with  a  fair  face  and  gentle  expression.  Bessie 
looked  long  at  this  picture  every  time  she  entered  the  place.  His 
uncle  is  much  fiercer  looking,  from  whom  the  present  proprietor 
is  descended.  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  are  there,  and  Gonsalvo, 
the   Gran    Capitan. 

From  this  mirador  a  little  gate  opens  upon  the  wild  hillside, 
and  the  children  often  scrambled  up,  still  higher,  to  the  Silla  del 
Moro.  It  is  but  a  stone's  throw,  and  there  is  a  kind  of  path.  The 
view  is  magnificent ;  straight  down  the  valley  of  the  Darro,  appar- 
ently uninhabited,  but  in    reality  peopled   with    gypsies.     They  live   in 


CVl'RESS    WALK    IN    THE    GENERALllK. 


t  >  ) 


THE  GE?f  ERA  LIFE.  253 

caves  underground,  and    nothing    is    visible   of   their    populous   suburb 
but   a   luxurious  jungle   of   prickly  pears    and    other   shrubs. 

The  odd  name  Generalife  is  Arabic,  and  means  "  the  garden  of 
the    architect." 

Only  one  portion  of  the  Alhambra  now  remamed  unexplored  — 
the  Torres  Vermejas,  or  Vermilion  Towers,  which  are  even  a  little 
redder  in  color  than  the  rest.  All  the  walls  and  towers  take 
their  color  from  the  ruddy  soil  ;  they  are  made  of  a  combination 
of  flint,  earth  and  lime,  called  chinarro,  which  bakes  m  the  sun  to 
the    hardness   of    stone. 

These  towers  (i)  stand  apart  from  the  enclosure  of  the  Alham- 
bra, upon  a  hill  of  their  own,  a  little  lower  than  the  level  of  the 
adawes,  from  which  people  can  be  seen  walking  about  upon  the  flat 
roofs  which  form  a  sort  of  terrace  on  top.  This  is  the  most 
ancient  portion  of  Granada.  It  is  mentioned  by  an  Arabian  poet  of 
the  middle  century,  as  the  Red  Castle.  Its  long  line  of  walls 
crown  the  hill  and  follow  the  curves  and  dips  of  the  ground  most 
gracefully. 

After  all,  the  wooded  slopes  of  the  approach  to  the  Alhambra 
lend  it  one  of  its  chiefest  charms.  They  are  kept  green  by  the 
flowing  channels  of  water,  and  kept  alive  by  the  song  of  many 
birds. 

Wild  as  the  spot  may  seem,  it  is  yet  the  result  of  man's  work, 
for  it  was  the  Moors  who  brought  the  streams,  and  changed  the 
barren  rock  to  this  verdant  retreat.  The  elm-trees  were  sent  from 
England,  1812,  to  the  governor  of  the  Alhambra,  as  a  present. 
They  flourish  well  in  the  richly  watered  soil,  although  so  unlike 
the   trees   which   are   native  to   it. 

A  couple  of  weeks  slipped  away  like  a  flash  in  the  enjoyment 
of  this  wonderful  place,  and  Miss  Lejeune  and  Bessie  had  not  once 
descended  so  far  as  the  Gate  of  the  Entrance  to  the  city  of  Granada. 
Mr.  Horner  had  faithfully  gone  down  at  due  intervals  to  visit  the 
banker  for  letters,  and  he  reported  always  on  his  return,  strange 
sights  he  had  seen,  and  hinted  that  these  must  not  be  neglected 
by  the    rest    of  the    party.       But    Miss    Augusta   was    too  comfortable 


254 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  TIIKOUGII  SPAIN. 


to    lend    an    car    to    this    sort    of    talk.     She    was    now    leading   pre- 
cisely the   life    she   enjoyed    the    most. 

"What  I  like  best    in  travelling,"  —  she  began    one  day  to  state  — 
"  Is     not     to    travel,"     suggested     Mr.     Horner,    who    was    sitting 


""sr-?f 


wii^-.-r  i-  ■ 


mw^' 


GLARING    GRANADA. 


fanning  himself,  and  looking  overwarm  after  a  rapid  walk  through 
the  glaring  streets  of  the  city.  His  hands  were  full  of  letters  and 
newspapers,  and    he   had  just    been    saying    to    his    assembled   family, 


THE  GENERALIFE. 


255 


that   they    really    must   go  with   him   the    next   time,    and    go  through 
the    Cathedral   and    other    places. 

—  "is,"  resumed  Miss  Lejeune,  scorning  the  interruption,  "to  be 
somewhere  where  there  is  enough  to  enjoy  without  going  after  it. 
Some  people  are  chasing  continually  after  the  sights  in  a  foreign 
town,  and  they  are  so  tired  after  about  a  week  of  it  that  they 
do   not   know   whether   they  are  looking  at   a  church  or    a   Raphael." 


GYPSY    QUARTER. 

"Do  you  think,  aunt  Dut,  that  even  here  we  are  quite  near  enough 
to  the  Alhambra .'' "  asked  Bessie.  "  Would  it  not  be  better  if  the 
Court   of  Lions    was   down   below    here   under   your    window  ^ " 

"  I  think  it  would  be  better  if  we  were  actually  in  the  enclos- 
ure ;  in  a  Casa  de  Huespedes.  It  would  be  lovely  to  stay  there, 
and   if   I    ever   come   again,    that    is    what    I    shall    do." 

"When  you  and  Mary  come,  you  can  have  rooms  in  the  house 
where   the    crazy    man   lives,"    said    Tommy. 

He  referred  to  a  mild,  melancholy  man  whom  they  had  met 
first  wandering  about  the  gypsy  quarter  ;  an  American,  who  had 
accosted  them  when  he  heard  them  speaking  English.  He  said 
he     had    been    living    there    nearly    a    year,    in    a    room    which    he 


2oG  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

hired  not  far  from  the  palace,  and  within  the  walls.  It  was  in  a 
pretty  little  house  at  the  end  of  a  garden  walk  overhung  with 
grapevine  on  an  arched  trellis,  and  his  house-mates  were  a  cat 
and  a  dog,  and  a  friendly  old  seiiora,  his  landlady,  who  made 
him  comfortable,  and  chatted  with  him  in  Spanish,  which  he 
knew  from  living  many  years  in  South  America.  Beyond  this,  his 
society  was  limited  to  chance  acquaintances  like  the  Horners,  and 
they  did  not  encourage  him  much,  as  subjects  were  few  in  com- 
mon,  and   he  was  of   a   gloomy   turn    of   mind. 

When  they  had  nothing  better  to  talk  about  among  themselves, 
they  speculated  upon  his  probable  past,  and  imagined  all  sorts  of 
reasons  why  he  lived  all  by  himself  under  the  shadow  of  the  tower 
of    Comares. 

"  Perhaps   he   is   digging   for   treasure,"    said   Tommy. 

"  Perhaps   he   is    a   descendant    of  the  Abencerrages,"    said    Bessie. 

He  looked  much  more  like  a  descendant  of  the  Puritans,  with  a 
decidedly  Yankee  build  and  accent,  in  spite  of  a  black  beard,  and 
a  sombrero  and  manta   such    as    the    Spaniards   wear. 

Mr.  Horner's  private  opinion  was,  that  some  slight  misunderstand- 
ing with  a  parental  government  made  it  safer  for  him  to  avoid  his 
native  land,  and  to  seek,  perhaps,  a  place  of  some  obscurity ;  but  he 
did   not  think   it   worth   while   to   express   these   views. 

One  day  while  they  were  having  early  coffee  in  the  dining- 
room,  the  waiters  told  them  with  some  excitement,  that  a  man  had 
been  found  dead  that  morning  in  the  thicket  below  the  Siete 
Suelos.  A  pistol-shot  had  been  heard  even  at  the  distance  of  the 
hotel ;  and  as  a  pistol  was  found  lying  near  the  body,  it  was 
supposed   he   had   killed   himself. 

"  It  must  be  our  crazy  man !  "  exclaimed  Bessie,  "  he  was  trying 
to   get   into   the   Treasure   Vault   of  the    Moors." 

"  Nonsense,  Bessie ! "  said  her  father,  rather  sharply.  "  I  must  go 
and    see   about   the    matter," 

As  a  fellow  citizen,  he  felt  it  a  point  of  duty  to  interest  him- 
self in    the    case. 

On    arriving  at   the    spot    where   the    victim    of    the   accident    was 


THE  genekalifp:. 


257 


Still  lying,  Mr.  Horner  was  relieved  to  find  that  he  did  not 
recognize  in  him  their  man.  He  saw  the  body  of  a  young  SfSan- 
iard  quite  unknown  to  him.  It  was  soon  recognized  by  the 
authorities  as  that  of  a  vagabond  youth  who  for  some  time  had 
been  restlessly  wandering  about  the  grounds,  and  who  had  proba- 
bly shot  himself.  But  oddly  enough,  their  American  had  disap- 
peared.    They   never   saw   him  again. 


258  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


THE    CITY    OF    GRANADA. 


MR.  HORNER'S  hints,  and  the  necessity  of  the  case,  finally 
roused  Miss  Lejeune,  and  she  consented  to  set  about  sight- 
seeing in  good  earnest.  Their  dreamy  days  in  the  Alhambra  were 
at  an  end,  and  the  rest  of  their  time  there  was  *tlevoted  to  the 
Cathedral  and  the  Convent  of  the  Cartuja,  and  such  points  of  inter- 
est  as    the    city  affords. 

They  thought  the  interior  of  the  Cathedral  very  beautiful,  although, 
perhaps  because,  entirely  different  from  the  Gothic  grandeur  of 
Burgos  and  Seville.  There  is  nothing  Gothic  about  it.  It  has  Cor- 
inthian pillars,  a  dome,  and  noble  rounded  arches,  with  a  profusion  of 
white  and  gold  decoration,  which,  strange  to  say,  in  Spain,  never  looks 
gaudy  and  tawdry,  but  solemn.  The  effect  of  gold  in  ornament  is 
quiet  instead  of  glaring,  and  as  it  is  applied  to  the  graceful  curves 
of  carving  in  the  Spanish  churches,  it  is  at  once  rich  and  full  of 
repose. 

The  chief  ornaments  of  the  Cimborio,  under  the  dome,  are  seven 
grand  pictures  of  the  Virgin,  painted  by  Alonzo  Cano.  They  are 
very  beautiful,  although  so  high  up  that  it  is  rather  hard  to  see 
them,  and  of  course  impossible  to  examine  them  closely.  Cano 
was  the  minor  canon  of  this  Cathedral,  and  he  has  enriched  it  with 
many  works.     He   is   buried    there,  under   the    choir. 

Ferdinand  and  Isabella  pervade  the  Cathedral,  which  was  one  of 
the  chief  glories  of  their  reign.  The  Capilla  de  los  Reyes,  their 
royal  chapel,  is  the  most  important  part  of  it.  It  is  adorned  with 
the  shields  and  badges  of  the  Catholic  sovereigns,  as  these  two  are 
always   called.       On    each    side    of    the    high    altar    kneel   efifigies    of 


THE  CITY  OF  GRANADxV. 


259 


the  king  and  queen  ;  exact  representations  of  their  faces,  forms,  and 
costumes;  behind  them  are  singular  painted  carvings  of  the  work  of 
their  lives,  the  conquest  of  the  Moors  and  the  conversion  of  the  infi- 
dels.    In    the   one  which    illustrates   the  Alhambra,  Isabella   is    riding 


TOMB  OF  FERDINAND  AND   ISABELLA. 


upon  a  white  palfrey  between  Ferdinand  and  the  great  Cardinal 
Mendoza,  who  sits  on  a  mule,  holding  out  his  hand  for  the  key 
presented  by  Boabdil,  dismounted.  Behind  are  ladies,  knights,  and 
halberdiers,  and    captives   are    coming   out    of  the    gates. 


260 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


Bessie  looked  a  good  while  at  this  curious  piece  of  carving  ;  then 
she    sighed   deeply,    and    said  : 

"  I  knew  we  should  have  to  hear  all  about  Ferdinand  and  Isabella 
here,  but  I  mean    not   to   admire    them   any  more  than  I  can   help." 

In  the  centre  of  the  chapel,  the  marble  figures  of  the  two  sov- 
ereigns repose  on  alabaster  sepulchres.  The  statue  of  Isabella  is 
admirable.     Her   smile  is   cold   and  placid. 

She  died  far  from  Granada,  but  desired  to  be  buried  in  this 
Cathedral.  In  spite  of  her  cruel  policy  to  infidels,  which  naturally 
excited  the  displeasure  of  Bessie,  Isabella  was  one  of  the  best  sov- 
ereigns who  ever  dignified  a  throne.  Her  time  was  the  most 
brilliant  period  of  Spanish  history.  The  discovery  of  the  New  World, 
just  when   the   Old  World  was  found  to  be  too  narrow  for  the  growth 

of  human  intellect 
and  progress,  was 
the  great  glory  of 
her  reign,  although 
she  herself  doubt- 
less thought  the 
aid  she  promised 
to  Columbus  of 
trifling  importance, 
compared  with  the 
surrender  of  that 
little  key  by  the 
vanquished  Moor. 

The  statue  of 
Ferdinand  is  also 
lifelike.  His  head  rests  on  the  pillow  without  making  an  impres- 
sion upon  it,  while  that  of  the  queen  weighs  it  down.  The 
Spaniards  say  it  is  because  she  had  the  most  brains.  But  the 
king,  her  husband,  was   a   wise,  far-seeing  monarch. 

In  the  vault  below,  they  are  buried  in  plain  coffins,  which  have 
never  been  disturbed.  There  also  lies  the  body  of  their  little  grand- 
son, Prince    Miguel,  who    was    thrown   from    his    pony  in   a    square   in 


ELIZABETH    DICTATING    HER   WILL. 


THE  CITY  OF  GRANADA.  2G1 

Granada.  If  he  had  lived,  he  would  have  reigned  over  Spain  and 
Portgual  both,  because  his  mother,  the  daughter  of  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  was  married  to  the  King  of  Portugal.  The  only  son  of 
the  Catholic  sovereigns  died  early ;  the  throne  passed  to  Tuana, 
who  married  Philip,  son  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian.  But  this 
Philip  died  before  Ferdinand  did.  It  was  his  son  Charles  who  be- 
came heir  to  the  Spanish  throne,  and  also  later  to  the  crown  of  the 
Emperor  of  Germany.  Thus  it  was  that  the  immense  territories 
of  the  Netherlands,  Germany,  and  Spain,  were  united  under  one 
monarch,  Charles    the    Fifth, 

Among  the  relics  in  the  chapel,  bequeathed  to  it  by  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella,  are  the  rare  standards  used  at  the  conquest  of 
Granada,    and   the    sword   of   the  king. 

Near  by  hangs  a  portrait  of  the  brave  Ferdinand  Perez  de 
Pulgar,    who    performed    a  daring   feat    during   the    siege   of  Granada. 

Indignant  at  an  audacious  act  of  one  of  the  Moors,  he  went  into 
the  city  one  night  with  only  a  handful  of  followers,  forced  the  gate, 
and  galloped  furiously  through  the  streets  to  the  principal  mosque. 
Here  he  sprang  from  his  horse,  and,  kneeling,  took  possession  of 
the  place,  dedicating  it  to  the  Blessed  Virgin  as  a  Christian 
chapel.  After  nailing  to  the  door  with  his  dagger,  a  tablet 
inscribed  with  the  words  ^' Ave  Maria,"  he  remounted  his  horse 
and  galloped  back  to  the  gate.  The  city  was  now  aroused,  but 
Ferdinand,  overturning  some  and  cutting  down  others,  rejoined  his 
companions  outside  the  walls,  and  they  all  made  good  their  way 
to  the  camp.  This  mosque  became  afterwards  the  Cathedral  of 
Granada,  and  the  Emperor,  Charles  the  Fifth,  conferred  on  the 
descendants  of  Pulgar  the  right  of  burial  in  that  church,  and  the 
privilege   of   sitting   in    the  choir  during    High    Mass. 

"  I  think,"  said  Tommy,  "  that  the  Spaniards  were  just  as  noble 
as   the   Moors.     I    mean   to   leave  off  mourning   for    Boabdil ! " 

"Very  well,"  replied  Bessie.     "I   shall  be  faithful   to   the    last." 

This  was  almost  the  last  they  saw  of  the  Moors,  as  they  did  not 
go  to  Valencia,  where  they  would  have  found  again  traces  of  their 
industry  and  wealth,  of  a   period   earlier   than    that   of  the  prosperity 


262 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


of  Granada.  Valencia  became  a  Moorish  kingdom,  independent  of 
the  Cordovan  Khalifate,  in  1056  ;  it  was  captured  by  the  Cid  at  the 
end  of  the  eleventh  century,  and  never  returned  to  the  rule  of  the 
Moors.  James  the  First  of  Aragon  conquered  it  from  the  Cid,  in  the 
beginning  of  the  thirteenth  century,  and  later  it  was  annexed  to 
the   crowns    of  Castile   and    Aragon. 

The   town   of  Granada   proved   not   especially  amusing.     The  Zaca- 

tin  is  the  shopping  street.  It  is 
occupied  by  little  bazaars,  with 
the  usual  gay  panuelas  and 
alforcas  and  mantas  hanging  out 
in    the    streets. 

They  visited  the  Cactuja,  a  sup- 
pressed convent  outside  the  town. 
It  was  once  enormously  wealthy  ; 
founded  by  the  Carthusian  monks, 
on  ground  granted  tc  them  by 
the  Gran  Capitan,  Gonsalvo  de 
Cordova.  The  doors  of  the 
chapel  are  curiously  inlaid  with 
ebony,  mother-of-pearl,  and  tor- 
toise-shell, and  there  is  a  beauti- 
lul  Virgin  and  Child,  by  Alonzo 
Cano.  Miss  Lejeune  longed  for 
photographs  of  this  and  of  the 
masterpieces  in  the  Cathedral, 
but  they  are  not  to  be  had. 
All  these  pictures  are  placed 
loo  high  to  be  easil)  photo- 
graphed, even  if  permissi-on  could 
be  obtained  for  it ;  and  in  many 
cases,  the  chapels  where  fine  pictures  are  hidden,  in  Spain,  are  so 
dark    that    photography   would    be    impossible. 

Gonsalvo   de  Cordova    is    almost    as    great    a   hero   as    the  Cid  him- 
self.    He  was   born   in    1453,  in   a  warlike  and    turbulent   period,  and 


HOUSE   IN    GRANADA. 


THE  CITY  OF  GRANADA. 


263 


at  an  early  age  attached  himself  to  the  fortunes  of  Isabella.  At 
her  court,  his  beauty  and  knightly  deeds  soon  attracted  attention ; 
in   the    long    war    of    Granada,    his    military   discipline    was    perfected, 


PALMS   AT   ELCHE. 


though   he   was    then    too    young   to    occupy 

the    most    eminent  position.     After  the  war  he  becane 

a    brilliant    ornament    of    the    royal    circle.        His     manners 

wore    the     gallantry    of      the     time,     as    is     shown    by    the     anecdote 

of      the     queen's     wardrobe     at      Sante      Fe.        He      was      sent      by 

Kino-    Ferdinand     to    Sicily    in     1495,    to    resist     the    pretensions    of 


264  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THEOUGH  SPAIN. 

Charles  the  Eighth  of  France  to  the  throne  of  Naples  ;  and  there 
Gon salvo  showed  great  bravery  and  daring,  although  forced  to  retreat 
after  one  battle  ;  the  only  one  which  he  lost  during  his  long  and 
fortunate  career.  In  less  than  a  year  he  made  himself  master  of 
the  larger  part  of  the  kingdom  of  Naples.  It  was  then  that  he 
received   by  general    consent    the   title   of  the    Great   Captain. 

The  total  expulsion  of  the  French  was  the  result  of  his  victor- 
ies, and  the  submission  of  the  last  rood  of  territory  possessed  by 
Charles   the  Eighth   in    the  Kingdom    of  Naples. 

Gonsalvo  continued  in  Naples,  ruling  the  kingdom  as  viceroy, 
until  Ferdinand  recalled  him,  apparently  suspecting  that  he  meant 
to    make   himself   an    independent   sovereign. 

He  was  received  at  home  with  the  highest  distinction,  and  lived 
from  this  time  upon  his  own  estates  in  great  magnificence.  The 
king  treated  him  with  coldness,  jealous,  perhaps,  of  his  popularity  ; 
but  after  his  death,  the  king  and  court  went  into  mourning,  and 
the   whole   of  Spain   lamented   his   loss. 

As  they  did  not  go  to  Valencia,  they  missed  Elche,  where  are 
some  fine  palms,  in  almost  the  only  grove  of  them  in  Spain. 
They   would   have   enjoyed    this    excursion,  but,  as    Bessie   said  : 

"We   had   palms   in   the   East." 


BE8IS1E  TO  MARY. 


265 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


BESSIE    TO    MARY. 


HURSDAY  was  occupied 
in  last  things.     The  end 
of  the  afternoon  was  spent  once 
more  in  the  garden  of  the  Torre 
de  la  Vela.     Aunt    Dut    was    finishing 
her   sketch    of  the    Sierra    Nevada,  all 
rosy     and    snow-capped,     with     great     red 
geraniums    close    to    us  for  the  foreground. 
The    people    of      the     garden     were     very 
friendly,    like    all     such    people    in    Spain  ; 
far    from    being    bandits,    they   are    always 
standing  around  with  watering-pots  ;    some- 
times old  gentlemen,  sometimes  very  pretty 
seiioras,    who    put   roses    in    papa's    button- 
hole.    To   be   sure   they   all   like   a   peseta 

at  parting,  but  who  does 
not.? 

"Our  trunks  had  to  be 
packed  that  evening,  for 
on  Friday  morning  (at 
half-past  three,  my  dear ;  how  would 
you  have  liked  that .?)  we  were  dragged 
from  our  beds,  in  order  to  be  down 
in  Granada  to  take  the  diligence  at  five.  The  berlina  of  this  dili- 
gence answers  to  the  coupe  that  you  are  accustomed  to,  the  cupi 
of  Spain  being  a  less  distinguished  place  on  top.  We  had 
engaged    the   berlina,    but    it    only    held     three;     so    that    papa    and 


POSTILION. 


266 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


Tommy  took  turns  in  climbing  up  to  a  seat  by  the  driver,  a  splendid 
place  where  they  could  see  all  the  country,  though  they  had  nothing 
much  to  their  backs,  and  papa's  legs  hung  down  so  that  we  had 
a  sight  of  his  heels  to  comfort  us.  The  door  of  our  place  was 
very  small ;  I  doubt  if  Mrs.  Stuyvesant  could  have  squeezed  herself 
into  it.  We  sat  within  our  little  glass-case,  all  among  the  legs  of 
the  horses,  and  packed  so  solid  with  our  hand-bags  and  straps, 
alpacas  and  lunch-bags,  that  we  could  not  stir.  There  was  a  sort 
of  shelf  just  outside  our  windows,  where  a  stout  Spaniard  came 
and    sat    most    of    the   time,    so    that    the    view    in    front    was    very 


ON   THE  VEGA. 


much  filled  up.  Nevertheless,  we  had  a  jovial  day,  reaching  Jaen 
at  half-past  one  p.  m.  The  horses,  chiefly  mules,  were  eight  ;  two 
abreast.  On  the  forward  off  mule  sat  a  postilion,  jouncing  up  and 
down  in  the  saddle,  but  occasionally  springing  off  to  run  all 
around  the  whole  team,  and  larrup  the  beasts,  who  then  ran  at 
their  utmost,  raising  great  clouds  of  white  dust.  The  coach  swayed, 
the  mayoral  yelled,  there  was  a  tremendous  uproar,  as  if  it  were 
a  change  of  government,  in  spite  of  which  this  youth  would  turn 
up  from   behind,  overtake  his  forward  steed,  and  jump  into  the  saddle 


BESSIE  TO  MARY.  •  267 

again.  The  result  of  these  uprisings  was  brief  ;  all  the  mules  settled 
down  again  into  a  jog  directly,  and  then  the  postilion  came  and 
reposed  a  few  moments  on  the  bench  in  front  of  us,  and  smoked 
a  cigarette  until  he  felt  a  call  to  renew  the  scene.  The  animals 
were  changed  often  at  little  villages,  and  then  papa  came  and 
chatted,  and  changed  places  with  Tommy.  There  was  not  much 
room  for  papa  inside  with  us.  His  hat  scraped  the  ceiling,  and 
the   front    wall    of  our  abode  scraped    his   knees. 

"Meanwhile  the  scenery  was  wonderful.  After  we  had  crossed 
the  Vega  with  its  hnertas  scattered  along,  the  road  wound  about 
in  zigzags  like  a  Swiss  pass.  The  mountains  took  on  beautiful 
pink  tints  with  blue  shadows,  and  always  such  flowers !  poppies, 
bluets,  —  things  we  knew,  things  we  did  not  know.  I  saw  a  little 
boy  sitting  under  an  olive-tree,  beside  a  basket  full  of  apricots, 
with  his  face  smeared  from  ear  to  ear  with  mulberry-juice. 
Once,  when  we  stopped,  I  gathered  a  spray  of  white  clematis,  just 
like  ours  at  home,  growing  on  a  pomegranate-tree  all  in  blossom. 

"It  grew  pretty  hot  and  glaring  as  we  came  up  the  hill  to 
Jaen,  and  we  were  covered  with  thick,  powdery  white  dust, 
especially  myself;  for  when  I  crawled  out  of  our  little  door  to 
get  the  clematis,  I  knocked  my  hat  off,  and  it  fell,  top  downward, 
into  a  bed  of  dust,  which  penetrated  it,  so  that  it  is  no  longer 
a  dark-blue  felt.  By  the  way,  we  have  had  such  a  time  about 
straw  hats ;  you  know  we  thought  we  could  buy  them  anywhere 
as  soon  as  the  warm  weather  demanded  them.  On  the  contrary, 
the  Spanish  do  not  wear  hats.  Their  heads  are  tied  up  in 
panuelas,  most  picturesque,  but  not  shady.  It  was  not  till  we 
reached  Malaga  that  we  could  find  any  straw  hats.  There  we 
bought  one  apiece,  all  alike,  for  a  peseta  each.  At  Granada,  I 
trimmed  them  all  with  white  scarfs,  —  papa's  and  Tommy's,  as  well 
as  ours.  They  accompany  us  in  a  strap  with  the  lunch-box,  and 
were    part   of    the    furniture  of  our   berlina."     .... 

Jaen  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the  same  name.  The 
Horners  had  left  Andalusia  behind.  They  saw  no  more  Moorish 
balconies  ;    no    more    cacti     and    aloes.     These     had    given    place    to 


268 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


more  Nor:hern  products  of  the  soil.  The  diligence  road  on  which 
they  had  come,  brought  them  to  a  point  very  near  Meniibar,  a 
station    on    the    same    railway   over    which    they    had    passed    when 


0t'>^^iC 


SPANISH    UALCONIES. 


they  went  from  Madrid  to  Cordova  and  the  South.  They  were 
thus  about  to  take  up  the  line  of  their  travels,  and  retrace  their 
steps    to    Madrid. 

They     did     not     stop    at    Jaen,    though    it    is    an     interesting    old 


BESSIE  TO  MARY, 


2G9 


town.  There  was  time  to  step  across  the  plaza  and  look  at  the 
cathedral,  a  fine  building  of  the  sixteenth  century,  noble  within 
though    much   defaced    by    whitewash. 

They  had  an  excellent  almuerzo  at  an  unpretending  little  tonda, 
for  which  they  were  quite  ready,  after  their  early  coffee  at  half- 
past  three.  To  be  sure  the  lunch-basket  had  been  consulted  in 
the   interval,    and     bits     of    chicken     had    disappeared. 


S\V<S\Vv,Ss^^^ 


PARTING   AT   THE   STATION. 


An  omnibus  rattled  them  to  the  railway-station,  where  of 
course,  there  was  an  hour  or  more  to  wait.  Tommy  fed  the 
chickens  belonging  to  the  senora,  who  kept  a  "  cooling-drinks " 
stand  outside. 

An  immense  crowd  collected  and  departed  while  they  were 
waiting,    for   another   train    carried   off    a   number   of  recruits   for   the 


270  A  FAMILY.  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

army,  and  the  whole  population  turned  out  to  see  them  off, 
although  they  were  going  to  no  dangerous  exposure  in  this  won- 
derfully  peaceful    period   for    Spain. 

Miss  Lejeune  looked  about  for  something  to  sketch,  but  the 
region  was  as  barren  as  a  junction  always  is  in  New  England,  and 
wore  the  same  brand-new,  incomplete  aspect.  Spanish  railways  are 
too    modern    to    share    the    picturesque    qualities    of  their    country. 

Now  came  another  long  journey  in  the  train, —  the  most  fatiguing 
of  the  Horners'  experience.  It  was  hot  and  glaring  all  day  ;  the 
scenery  was  uninteresting,  and  the  long  hours  of  the  hot  day 
were  followed  by  a  night  of  the  same  stiff  positions,  tumbled  hair 
and    unwashed  faces. 

In  the  middle  of  the  night,  they  passed  through  the  place 
where  they  had  bought  the  daggers.  All  roused  themselves  this 
time  to  go  after  chocolate.  The  scene  repeated  itself.  The  vender 
of  knives  appeared,  and  they  bought  more,  proud  this  time  of  the 
improvement  in  their  Spanish,  which  enabled  them  to  hold  a  parley 
with  the  dagger-merchant.  But  this  was  but  a  break  in  the  misery 
of  the  night.  Glad  they  were  to  see  the  dawn,  after  doubtful  slum- 
bers ;  and  still  more  glad  to  find  themselves  in  the  great  station 
at    Madrid,    which   now   seemed    like    home. 

Home  it  might  be,  but  repose  was  not  yet  for  their  weary  limbs. 
Miss  Lejeune  had  written  for  an  apartment  in  a  casa  de  huespcdes, 
of  which  she  had  the  address,  and  having  received  a  favorable 
answer,  had  taken  the  rooms  conditionally.  Their  omnibus  now 
drove  them  to  this  house  in  Calle  Mayor,  21,  an  excellent 
position,  just  off  the  gay  Puerta  del  Sol,  While  the  children 
remained  with  the  vehicle,  Mr.  Horner  and  Miss  Augusta  climbed 
the  stairs  with  a  very  obliging  landlord,  to  look  at  the  rooms  and 
see   if  they   would    answer. 

Tommy  was  on  the  sidewalk  staring  about  him  like  one  in  a  dream 
suddenly  set  down  in  a  strange  place  which  seems  strangely  familiar. 
Suddenly  he  heard  a  shout  above  him,  and  looking  up,  he  saw  in 
a  little  balcony  in  the  third  story,  his  father  and  Miss  Lejeune, 
waving  and  both    beckoning. 


BESSIE  TO  MARY.  273 

Bessie  came  quickly  out  of  the  omnibus,  her  hair  in  a  sadly  rum- 
pled condition,  and  the  once  dark-blue  hat,  now  powdered  with  white, 
lamentably  jammed  on  one  side.  They  seized  bags  and  bundles. 
The  blue-bloused  conductor  of  the  carriage  armed  himself  also,  and 
soon  they  were  climbing  up  the  narrow  stairs  to  their  new  abode. 
A  door,  with  a  bell-pull,  on  the  third  landing,  stood  open.  Miss 
Lejeune  awaited  them  in  the  entrance.  They  passed  through  a  little 
dining-room,  with  a  window  upon  a  little  court,  or  wall,  and  found 
themselves  in  a  long,  pleasant  salon,  rather  meagrely  furnished,  but 
with  the  usual  allowance  of  clocks  and  mirrors  which  France  has 
bequeathed   to   all    European    hotels. 

"  Is  it   not   cosey .'' "    demanded  Miss    Lejeune. 

"Do   you    think   it   will    do.?"    asked  the  father,    a   little  anxious. 

'*  I  think  it  is  delicious ! "  said  Bessie,  casting  a  rapid  glance 
about,    "  only    I   have   not   seen    it    at   all   yet." 

"Well,  then  we  will  decide  to  stay,"  said  Mr.  Horner,  with  a 
sigh  of  relief.  Miss  Lejeune  nodded  with  a  pleasant  smile  to  the 
landlord  and  his  wife,  and  thus  their  life  in  a  Spanish  boarding- 
house  began. 

Senor  Rico  and  his  friendly  spouse  could  speak  no  word  of  any 
language  but  Spanish ;  no  more  could  the  active  maid  Rita,  who 
did  the  work  ;  far  less  the  long-limbed,  gaunt,  elderly  char-woman 
who  appeared  and  disappeared  very  mysteriously  from  the  kitchen 
department,  which  was  just  across  the  little  brick-tiled  passage-way. 
The  Horners  gloried  in  their  daring  which  allowed  them  to  attempt 
living   in    this    way. 

It  worked  perfectly  well,  and  proved  much  pleasanter  than  hotel- 
life,  at  any  rate,  for  a  change,  while  it  was,  of  course,  cheaper. 
The  rooms  all  opened  from  each  other,  and  it  was  necessary  to 
go  through  Mr.  Horner's  bedroom  to  reach  the  salon  ;  but  this 
did  not  signify,  as  they  did  not  expect  visits  from  the  grandees  of 
Spain.  The  salon  and  Miss  Augusta's  room  overlooked  the  street 
and  the  square,  with  large  windows  a  double  battants,  and  little 
balconies.  The  rooms  were  high  enough  from  the  street  to  avoid 
the   worst   of  the   noise,  and    Miss    Lejeune   enjoyed    being  awakened 


274 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


every  morning  in  the  early  dawn  by  the  tender  bray  of  the 
donkeys  who  drag  the  Httle  milk-carts  and  barrows  of  vegetables 
which    aged    seiioras   sell   about   the    streets. 

Later,  the  music  of  large,  well-built  hand-organs  floated  up  to 
them,  playing  charming  Aragoneses,  Jotas,  Jaleos,  with  something 
of  the  same  verve  they  received  from  the  light-hearted,  light-fingered 
artists  strumming  the  guitar  before  the  Siete  Suelos,  at  the 
Alhambra. 


H^jy  .'■—r".''ff'T '■■r-'™",'"  ^9■■^'^■*.-^l\^. 


THE  nCTUKE  GALLERY.  275 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 


THE     PICTURE     GALLERY. 


MADRID  has  the  reputation  of  a  bad  climate,  extremely  cold 
in  winter,  and  hot  in  summer.  The  Homers  had  been 
warned  not  to  stay  there  too  late,  on  account  of  the  danger  to 
health  from  the  difference  of  temperature  between  sun  and  shade 
in  the  summer  months,  and  especially  the  difference  between  the 
cold    of  the   galleries    and    the    warm    outside   air. 

But  they  had  lovely  weather  all  the  time.  It  was  the  middle  of 
June,  and  neither  too  hot  nor  too  cold ;  and  they  reached  the 
conclusion    that    the    climate    had  been    calumniated. 

The   chief    inducement    to    a   long   stay   in    Madrid   is    the    gallery 
of  pictures    called    the    Museo    Reale,  which    Miss    Lejeune   especially 
wished    to    study   thoroughly.       She    sat   down    before   it   as    one   who 
would    besiege    a   city,    and    made    it   her   regular   morning   occupation 
to   go   to    the    Prado  after     coffee    and    stay    till    almuerzo    at    twelve. 
The   rest    showed    the    same    zeal    for   a    day    or   two,    but    although 
they  fell    off  sooner    or  later,    she    had    not  the    slightest  objection  to 
be    there   alone.     The     permission    to    draw    there    is    easily  obtained 
through    the    kindness    and  liberality  of  the    director  of   the    Museum, 
and   though    Miss    Lejeune    set    up  no   large  easel    to   attack  a  Velas- 
quez  or    a    Ribera,    as    she    saw   many   a   brave    young    artist    doino- 
with   good    success,    she     transferred    to   her    sketch    book    souvenirs 
and    snatches    of   parts    of   her    favorite    pictures,  and    made   notes   of 
their   coloring,    to    help   Mary   to    understand    the   photographs    which 
she    bought    for    her    before     leaving     Madrid,    from     Laurent's     ex- 
cellent    collection.       Mr.     Horner    found,    as    he    expected,    a    budget 
of    letters    and    papers   from    his    partners,    on    a   special    question    of 


276 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


business,  and  he  settled  himself  every  morning  at  the  writing 
table  in  their  salon,  to  study  them  and  to  write  full  instructions  to 
those  at  home.  After  Bessie  had  written  and  despatched  one  epistle 
of  many  sheets  to  her  mother,  reviewing  all  the  Alhambra  ex- 
periences, which  she  had  had  little  time  to  write  about  while  they 
were  there,  she  was  ready  for  expeditions,  and  with  Tommy,  started 
off  whenever  he  felt  inclined.  She  could  '•  do "  enough  Spanish  to 
make  her  way  anywhere.  Tom,  on  the  contrary,  never  acquired 
the     language     beyond     ordering     JwrcJiata     do     chufas     in     a     cafe. 


INTERIOR  OF  THE  ARMORY. 

Thus  these  two  saw  more  of  the  streets,  churches,  and  shops  than 
their  elders.  The  afternoons  were  devoted  by  all  to  excursions  in 
various  directions,  the  favorite  of  which  was  the  drive  in  the  Buen 
Retiro  gardens. 

They     went     one     day     to    the     Armory,     because    Bessie     wished 
to    see     the    sword   of    Pelayo,    mentioned    in    the    list    in    the    guide- 


THE  PICTURE  GALLERY.  277 

book.  As  there  was  likely  to  be  some  difficulty  about  admission, 
Rico,  the  friendly  and  alert  landlord,  went  with  them  on  this  occa- 
sion. The  Armory  is  a  part  of  the  royal  palace,  and  at  first 
they  were  refused  admittance  by  the  guard  at  the  door.  After  a 
parley  with  Rico,  he  said  they  might  perhaps  obtain  permission  by 
applying  to  the  director,  who  was  to  be  seen  in  the  Palace. 
After  crossing  the  large  courtyard  and  corridors,  they  were  admitted 
to  a  waiting-room  in  the  Palace,  where  gold-buttoned  valets  with 
red  waistcoats,  were  gliding  in  and  out.  They  had  armed  them- 
selves with  their  passports,  for  which,  by  the  way,  they  now  found 
a  use  for  the  first  and  last  time  in  Spain  ;  and  after  these  had  been 
duly  examined,  a  highly  distinguished  old  gentleman,  with  perhaps 
the  blue  blood  of  Pelayo  in  his  veins,  courteously  gave  them  permis- 
sion to  visit  the  Armory,  and  sent  a  special  person  in  buttons, 
to   escort   them    back    across    the   hot,   glaring    courtyard. 

When  they  found  themselves  fairly  within  the  Armory,  it  proved 
that  it  was  undergoing  what  we  should  call  a  spring  cleaning,  and 
was,  in  consequence,  all  up  in  arras.  This  did  not,  however,  pre- 
vent them  from  seeing  all  the  curiosities,  and  it  was  highly 
entertaining  to  watch  a  group  of  dressmakers  putting  clothes  upon 
wooden  figures  which  were  to  display  the  armor  and  costume  of 
ancient  periods.  It  is  a  remarkable  collection,  well  worth  seeing. 
Charles  the  Fifth,  and  Philip  the  Second,  in  full  armor,  sit  upon 
their  splendidly  caparisoned  war-horses,  as  they  are  represented  in 
the  portraits  by  Titian,  and  other  heroes  display,  in  effigy,  the 
corselets,   shields    and   weapons    of  their   time. 

There  are  longer  expeditions  from  Madrid  to  places  of  interest. 
One  of  these  is  to  the  gridiron-shaped  Escurial,  built  by  Philip  the 
Second  as  a  mausoleum  for  the  royal  family  of  Spain.  The  Hor- 
ners,  to  tell  the  truth,  regarded  this  excursion  with  fear  and 
trembling,  and  Miss  Lejeune  refused  from  the  first,  to  have  any- 
thing to  do  with  it.  "The  idea  of  the  Escurial,"  she  said,  "is 
dismal  enough,  and  T  have  no  wish  to  visit  it."  She  held  to 
her  opinion,  even  when  they  returned  full  of  enthusiasm  for  the 
grand,    though    gloomy    edifice,   where,    in    an    oratory,    are    kneeling 


278 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


effigies    of    Charles    the    Fifth,    and    Philip    the    Second,   with    their 
wives   and   daughters ;    all  portraits    executed    with    skill. 

The  library  is  a  long  and  beautiful  room,  intended  by  Philip 
the  Second  to  be  on  the  same  scale  of  magnificence  as  the  rest 
of  the   Escurial.      The    collection    of    books    was    once    one    of    the 


THE   GRIDIRON-SHAPED    ESCURIAL. 

richest    in  Europe,   but   it   is    now  much    diminished   through    neglect, 
the    invasion   of  the   French,    and   other    theft. 

Another  longer  expedition  was  to  Aranjuez,  and  this  was  shared 
by  Miss  Lejeune.  They  spent  the  day  wandering  about  the  charm- 
ing gardens,  under  the  tall  elms  brought  from  England  by  Philip 
the  Second,  listening  to  nightingales  and  cuckoos.  They  spent  the 
night  at  a  small  inn  upon  a  wide,  dusty  street.  Just  as  they  en- 
tered it,  a  violent  thunder  storm  began,  which  crashed  and  rolled 
all  night,  while  the  rain  poured  down.  It  was  all  over  before  the 
morning,  fortunately,  and  they  returned  to  Madrid  in  bright  sun- 
shine,   not   without    turning    their    eyes    with    longing    back    toward 


THE  PICTURE  GALLERY. 


279 


Toledo,    which   is    upon    the    same    railroad,    but    farther    away   from 
Madrid. 

"Dear  Toledo!"  said  Bessie;    "how  long  it  seems   since   we  were 
there.     I    wonder   how    the    sefioras    are    gettins:  along: ! " 

Cj  O  O 


LIBRARY  OF  THE   ESCURIAL. 


"  I    wish     they    could    hear     our    improved     Spanish,"    said     Miss 
Lejeune. 

"  I     had     Hubert    then,"    remarked    Tommy   gloomily. 


280  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

The  boys  had  kept  up  an  active  correspondence  since  the  parting. 
Although  letter-writing  was  an  immense  effort  to  the  youngest 
Horner,  he  wished  to  impart  all  his  observations  to  the  companion 
who  had  shared  the  first  part  of  the  Spanish  experience  ;  and  this 
overcame   his   aversion   to   putting   pen    to    paper. 

Hubert's  letters  in  return  were  better  written  and  better  spelled, 
but  shorter,  for  he  had  nothing  to  communicate  which  Tom  could 
take  an  interest  in.  His  chief  subject  was  comment  on  the  wonders 
in  Tom's  letters,  and  a  constant  undertone  of  longing  to  be  back 
with    the   family   who   had    been   so    kind    to    him. 

Aranjuez  was  a  favorite  resort  of  the  Catholic  sovereigns,  and 
since  then  has  been  occupied  and  improved  by  almost  every  king. 
Philip  the  Fifth,  the  Bourbon,  caused  a  new  set  of  buildings  to  be 
erected  in  the  Louis  the  Fourteenth  style,  and  the  effect  is  that 
of  a  Spanish  Fontainebleau.  The  court  still  resides  here  every 
year   for    a   few   weeks. 

Ferdinand  and  Isabella  were  true  Spanish  sovereigns.  By  their 
marriage,  the  different  provinces  of  the  Peninsula  were  united,  and 
a  purely  national  period  ensued.  But  their  son  did  not  live  to 
reign,  and  by  the  marriage  of  their  daughter  Juana,  to  a  prince  of 
Austria,  Philip,  the  son  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian,  a  foreign  ele- 
ment was  introduced,  which  was  to  unite  the  empire  of  Germany 
with  the  kingdom  of  Spain.  Thus  Charles  the  First,  of  Spain,  is 
better  known  by  his  title  of  Charles  the  Fifth,  Emperor  of  Ger- 
many, and  he  and  his  direct  descendants,  who  occupied  the  throne 
of  Spain  for  more  than  a  century,  are  called  the  sovereigns  of 
the   Austrian   house. 

The  dominions  of  Charles  the  Fifth  extended  over  half  of  Europe. 
He  inherited,  through  his  father,  the  portion  of  Burgundy  which 
contained  the  Netherlands.  He  was  elected  to  the  imperial  crown 
of  Germany,  and  his  domain  was  further  enlarged  by  the  empires 
of  the  New  World,  which  the  discovery  of  Columbus  gave  to 
Spain.  Thus  Spain  filled  a  minor  place  in  his  great  territory, 
and  while  the  rest  of  Europe  became  the  theatre  of  the  great 
battle    for    religious    liberty,    roused    by    the    appearance    of    Martin 


THE  PICTUIIE  GALLERY. 


281 


Luther,  her  people  were  allowed  to  cultivate  the  arts  of  peace. 
At  last  Charles  the  Fifth,  tired  of  governing  so  large  a  realm, 
retired  to  the  convent  of  Yuste,  and  left  the  throne  to  his  son, 
Philip  the  Second.  This  prince  was  born  and  educated  in  Spain, 
and  imbibed,  or  inherited,  all  the  peculiarities  of  the  national  char- 
acter. He  was  gloomy,  stern,  and  bigoted,  yet  in  general,  swayed 
by  a  strict  sense  of  justice.  With  him  ends  the  greatness  of  the 
kingdom  ;  for  during  the  reign  of  his  successors,  Spain  lost  the  glory 


THE   ENGLISH   ELMS,   ARANJUEZ. 

she  had  attained.  Philip  the  Third  expelled  all  the  remaining 
Moors,  and  thus  deprived  the  country  of  their  industry  and 
wealth.  Philip  the  Fourth  lost  many  of  the  possessions  of  the 
kingdom,  which  became,  in  his  time,  reduced  almost  to  the  limits 
of  the    Peninsula. 

Charles  the  Second,  the  son  of  Philip  the  Fourth,  inherited  the 
throne.  He  died  without  children,  in  1698,  and  now  began  the 
celebrated     war    of    the    Spanish    Succession,    in     which    all    Europe 


282 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIlSr. 


joined,  which  forms  a  part  of  English  history,  including  the  tri- 
umphs of  Marlborough,  as  well  as  a  long  page  in  the  annals  of 
France.  It  ended  in  the  accession  of  a  Bourbon  to  the  Spanish 
throne, —  Philip,  Duke  of  Anjou,  grandson  of  Louis  the  Fourteenth, 
who  thus  became  Philip  the  Fifth.  He  was  not  a  very  different 
Philip  from  those  who  preceded  him,  although  born  and  bred  at 
the    French    Court. 

With  many  reverses,  the  Bourbons  have  held  the  Spanish  throne 
since   his    accession    in    1700. 

Napoleon  interfered  with  their  rights  in  the  early  part  of  this 
century,  and  since  then  there  have  been  many  attempts  at  re- 
publican government,  and  periods  of  great  confusion  and  anarchy. 
At  the  present  time,  a  liberal  monarchy  seems  secure  in  the  hands 
of  the  young  king  Alphonso,  who  occupies  the  throne,  a  descend- 
ant  of   Philip   the    Fifth,    the   Bourbon. 


To  TllL'/iAR,K,L.T  WITHiC". 


/^ItTlHC  A  G  U  ITAfC 


SPANISH  ART.  283 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


SPANISH   ART, 


PHILIP  THE  SECOND,  like  his  father,  Charles  the  Fifth,  was  de- 
voted to  art,  and  through  their  influence,  their  country  is  a 
treasury  of  wonderful  interest.  Titian  was  the  painter  that  Charles 
the  Fifth  delighted  most  to  honor,  and  his  son  Philip  shared  this 
ardor ;  to  their  patronage  the  world  is  indebted  for  some  of  this 
great  master's  noblest  productions.  Philip  built  the  Escurial,  and 
sent  to  Italy,  where  art  was  then  in  its  glory,  for  artists  to  deco- 
rate its  walls  and  ceilings ;  and  at  his  court  artists  were  treated 
with  the  highest  consideration,  —  on  the  same  footing  with  haughty 
grandees    of    Spain. 

The  characteristic  of  Spanish  art  is  its  religious  tendency.  It 
was  cultivated  in  its  early  period,  not  for  its  own  sake,  but  as 
illustrating  religious  subjects,  for  the  adornment  of  cathedrals,  and 
to   elevate   the   human    mind   by  contemplation  of  divine   images. 

The  pictures  of  the  early  Spanish  masters,  therefore,  are  full  of 
religious  sentiment,  and  great  beauty  of  feeling ;  the  principal  period 
is  in  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries,  encouraged  by  the 
high  favor  of  the  court.  Under  the  Bourbon  princes,  the  French 
school  has"  prevailed,  and  the  Spanish  artists  have  departed  from 
their  national  characteristics  ;  but  of  late,  Fortuny,  Madrazo,  and 
others,  have  produced  something  like  a  modern  Spanish  school,  with 
a  charm    of  its    own. 

The  pictures  of  Spain,  which  were  scattered  throughout  the  cathe- 
drals and  churches,  were  many  of  them  carried  off  by  the  French, 
under  Napoleon's  directions,  after  the  manner  of  that  conqueror ; 
and  there  are  still  to  be  seen  at  the  Louvre,  and  elsewhere  out- 
side  of   their   native    country,    fine    specimens    of    Spanish   art.       But 


284  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  TIlllOUGH  SPAIN. 

the  greater  part  of  these  treasures  are  now  collected  in  the  Royal 
Museum  at  Madrid.  It  is  said  that  Joseph  Bonaparte,  during  his 
brief  sojourn  in  the  capital,  suggested  and  decreed  the  formation 
of  a  National  Gallery  of  paintings  ;  but  it  was  not  until  1819  that 
the  present  building  was  devoted  to  the  purpose.  Ferdinand  the 
Seventh  caused  it  to  be  thrown  open  to  the  public,  with  about  three 
hundred  Spanish  pictures.  Since  then  many  more  have  been  added 
from  the  Escurial  and  other  royal  palaces  ;  originals  of  undoubted 
authenticity,  because  they  were  taken  directly  from  the  places  for 
which  they  were  painted.  They  now  number  upwards  of  two  thou- 
sand, and  are  the  property  of  the  crown.  The  gallery  is  generally 
considered  the  finest  in  the  world.  It  is  a  collection  of  splendid 
gems,  rather  than  a  chronological  series  of  pictures  of  different 
schools,  like  that  at  Berlin,  which  is  wonderfully  complete  in  that 
regard. 

Here  Miss  Lejeune  delighted  to  wander  in  the  long  cool  galleries, 
catalogue  in  hand  ;  and  here  Bessie  often  joined  her,  for  apart 
from  the  artistic  interest  of  the  pictures,  there  was  a  great  one 
for  such  a  student  of  history  as  Bessie.  The  walls  are  plentifully 
hung  with  portraits  of  historic  value  painted  by  the  celebrated  artists 
of  their  time.  Titian's  Charles  the  Fifth  on  horseback  gives  a  vivid 
revelation  of  the  stern  conqueror,  with  heavy  Austrian  jaw  and  deter- 
mined brow.  His  wife,  the  Empress,  Doiia  Isabel,  of  Portugal,  also 
by  Titian,  and  Philip  the  Second,  are  there  too,  to  help  the  impres- 
sion of  their  characters,  acquired  in  reading  of  their  deeds.  Bessie 
liked  them  far  better  than  the  Venus  and  Adonises,  the  Dianas  and 
Acteons  of  Titian,  which  she  pronounced  to  be  too  much  like  the 
Virgins  and  Magdalens  of  the  same  painter.  Two  charming  pict- 
ures of  Carlos,  the  son  of  Philip  the  Second,  and  his  sister  Isabella 
Clara,  by  Sanchez  Coello,  were  favorites  not  only  with  Bessie,  but 
all  the  rest.  Pantoja  de  la  Cruz,  a  pupil  of  Coello,  painted 
also  portraits  of  Empresses  and  Infantas,  bristling  with  the  stiff- 
ness and  formality  of  the  court  costume  of  his  time,  the  sixteenth 
century,  their  throats  buried  in  high  stiff  ruffs,  and  each  looking, 
as    Tommy  considered,    as    if   she    had  swallowed   a   poker. 


THE  DWARF    "EL  PRIMO  " — Velasquez, 


SPANISH   AIIT. 


287 


The  great  master  of  the  time  of  Philip  the  Fourth,  Velasquez, 
claimed  the  most  of  their  attention.  Nowhere  but  in  this  gallery  can 
his  paintings  be  seen  to  advantage.  A  large  portion  of  the  walls  along 
the  room  are  occupied  with  his  works,  some  of  them  very  large,  repre- 
senting scenes,  historical  or  allegorical,  crowded  with  figures,  nobly 
executed.  In  the  same  room  hang  the  many  Murillos  belonging  to 
this  gallery,  but  Seville  has  not  surrendered  those  in  her  possession ; 
and  there  the  Homers  had  already  gained  their  impression  of  his 
graceful,     tender     Ma- 


donnas,  and  delicate 
coloring.  Mr.  Horner 
was  extremely  fond  of 
them  and  glad  to  have 
a  chance  to  see  more. 

Besides  the  Spanish 
school,  there  are  rooms 
full  of  other  master- 
pieces ;  the  ground 
floor  of  the  palace, 
below  the  principal  gal- 
lery, contains  an  ex- 
tremely interesting  col- 
lection of  early  Flemish 
and  German  works. 
Here  it  was  that  Miss 
Lejeune  sighed  for 
Mary's  sympathetic  presence,  "Where  is  Augusta.?"  asked  Mr. 
Horner  one  day  when  he  joined  Bessie,  by  appointment,  in  the 
Oval    Room,    or    Sala     Isabel    the    Second. 

"  She  is  down  among  her  Early  Flemish,"  replied  Bessie.  "  She 
has  discovered  a  Patinir  of  rare  merit,  and  I  believe  she  means 
to   copy    it    for    Mary." 

"  A    what  ^  "    demanded    her   father. 

"A  Patinir.  He  was  a  man,  papa,  that  painted  pictures.  I  will 
go   and   find    aunt    Dut." 


•■'>.... 


VELASQUEZ. 


288 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  TIIIIOUGII  SPAIN". 


"  No ;  only  tell  me  where  to  go,  and  I  will  find  her." 
He  discovered  her  committing  the  Patmir  to  memory,  to  be  able 
to  paint  it  afterwards.  It  was  very  Early  Flemish,  and  represented 
the  Flight  into  Egypt.  Mr.  Horner  thought  it  a  confused  mass  of 
badly  done  figures  in  impossible  positions,  but  Miss  Lejeune  con- 
vinced him  that  the  landscape  which  formed  the  background  was 
lovely. 

The    Sala    Isabel     the    Second    is    an    oval    gallery,    with  a  railing, 

open      to      the     hall 
- -T^^iu  '^r::^:_---  underneath   it,  which 

is  thus  lighted  from 
the  dome  above.  The 
walls  are  hung  with 
the  gems  of  the  whole 
collection  ;  Raphael, 
Rubens,  and  Vandyck 
are  well  represented. 
In  this  room  is  the 
portrait  of  Queen 
Mary  of  England,  — 
Bloody  Mary,  who 
was  the  wife  of  Philip 
the  Second.  This 
was  painted  by  An- 
tonio Moro,  as  he  is 
called  in  Spain,  a 
native  of  Utrecht, 
called  in  Dutch  cat- 
alogues Antony  Mor. 
The  long  connection 
of  Spain  with  the  Netherlands  gave  to  the  nation  so  great  a 
number   of  Flemish    pictures. 

"  Come  away  ;  come  away  !  "  e-xclaimed  Mr.  Horner  ;  "  you  have 
had  enough  for  one  day,  and  besides,  you  will  be  here  again  to- 
morrow.     It     is    lovely    out-doors.     I    have    a    carriage     below,     and 


FROM    EQUESl'RIAN    PORTRAIT    OF    PHILIP    IV.  —  Velasqiiez. 


SPANISH  ART. 


280 


Tommy   is   waiting   in   it,    with    piles    of  letters    from    the   bankers." 
This    was   enough.     Miss   Augusta    turned   away   at    once    from    the 

Rembrandt   she   was  examining,  and  they    hastened   through   the    long 

rooms,    unobservant  this    time  of  the    Titians    that    looked    down  upon 

them  from  the  walls. 

A     gentleman      they 

called    the    Amateur, 

because    he    was    al- 
ways   in    the    gallery, 

to    fill    up    his     time, 

apparently,     listlessly 

looking   at    the    pict- 
ures,  but    with    more 

animation  at  the  visi- 
tors, raised  his  hat  as 

they  passed. 

It   was   bright    and 

sunny,  and  the  air  felt 

soft    after   the    chilly 

atmosphere  of  the  gal- 
lery.   They  were  soon 

driving     along      the 

Prado,     in      a     wide, 

open  carriage,  so  busy 

with  their  letters  that 

they  noticed  nothing 

around    them.     An   exclamation   of    more    than    usual    vigor,  from  Mr. 

Horner,    made    them    put   down    the    sheets    they  were    reading.     All 

listened,  while  he  exclaimed  :  — 

"  Philip   has   a   plan  !     I  see  no  objection    to   it   yet.     This  is  what 

he    says : "  — 

Dear  Papa  :  I  hope  you  will  write  me  at  once,  and  very  distinctly, 
what  you  mean  to  do  on  leaving  Madrid.  Ever  since  we  heard  you 
were  thinking  of  Saragossa,  I  have  been  possessed  of  an  idea  to  which 
mamma   does    not    object,    and    if    you   approve,    I    think     it   will     be   very 


PAUL    REMBRANDT 


200 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


easy  to  carry  it  out.  We  are  very  near  the  Spanish  frontier  here,  and 
I  know  that  I  can  perfectly  well  cross  the  mountains  on  horseback, 
and    come    down    and    meet   you    at    Saragossa  — 

"  Meet    us !  "    exclaimed    all,  with    one   accord. 

There  is  a  railroad  ( continued  Mr.  Horner,  reading  from  the  letter ) 
from  Saragossa  to  a  place  called  Huesca,  and  between  that  and  the 
frontier  an  excellent  diligence  road.  I  can  find  out  more  about  my 
connections,  if  I  hear  from  you  that  you  consent  to  the  plan.  As  for 
mamma   and    Mary,  they   think   they   can    manage    to    do   without   me  — 

The  letter  went  on  to  explain  how  easy  it  would  be  for  the  two 
ladies    to    come   alone    to  join    the   rest   of    the    party    at    Marseilles, 

Mrs.     Horner    wrote     herself    to    advocate 
the   plan. 

"  Give  me  the  guide-book  !  "  said  Miss 
Lejeune.  "  I  have  seen  that  road  on  the 
map." 

O'Shea's  guide  was  always  with  them, 
on  the  cushion  of  the  carriage,  or  under 
somebody's  arm.  It  had  been  lost  a 
dozen  times,  and  its  binding,  once  fresh, 
had  assumed  a  weather-beaten  air,  but 
it  had  a  wonderful  faculty  for  being  found, 
and  for  turning  up  just  at  the  right  mo- 
ment ;    and  this    is  a  great  merit   in  a  guide-book. 

"  See ! "  said  Miss  Lejeune,  opening  the  book  at  one  of  the 
maps.  "  Here  they  are  at  Luz  ;  he  can  get  somehow  over  the 
mountains  to  Panticosa,  or  this  little  place  Jaca,  and  then  come 
down   to    Huesca,    where    the    rail  besrins." 

Whether  he  would  come  to  Panticosa  or  Jaca,  and  how  he  would 
get  across  the  mountains,  formed  a  subject  of  much  discussion. 
The  Horners  asked  Rico,  and  everybody  else  they  knew  in  Mad- 
rid. Everybody  was  sure  the  thing  could  be  done,  but  no  one 
knew  how.  The  maps  and  plans  in  their  guide-books  gave  out  at 
the    Spanish   boundary,  and    they   had   no    Guide-Joanne   to   consult. 


THE    AMATEUR. 


SPANISH  ART. 


291 


"But    they    have,'"    said    Bessie,  "and     they   have    studied    up   by 
this    time.     The    thing   is,  papa,  to    tell    Philip   he    may    come  ! " 
"  And   at   what   hotel    to    meet    us  ! "    added    Miss    Lejeune. 
"  And    the   name    of  the   banker,  if   we   can   find   that   out." 
"  O   papa !    they   have    the   same   letter  of  credit." 
"True   enough,"     replied    her    father;    "but,"  he   continued,  begin- 
ning   to   worry  a  little,  after   the    manner   of   parents,  "I    do   not  feel 
sure    that    he    will    be    able     to    make    his    way    without    knowing 
Spanish." 


292  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  TUROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER    XXXIV. 


KING    ALPHONSO. 


DRIVING   up    the    Calle   Jeronimo,  Miss    Lejeune   said: 
"  As    we   are    so   near    home,    do    you     mind    stopping    for    a 
moment   for   my   parasol  ?     This    sun    is    really    penetrating    to-day." 

The  order  was  given,  and  Tommy  begged  to  be  allowed  to  run 
up   the   four    flights   which   led   to    their   second    floor. 

It  was  a  fortunate  chance  which  led  them  to  pause  at  their 
house,  for  Rico  came  out  to  meet  them  at  the  carriage,  with  some 
cards  in  his  hand,  which  had  just  been  left  by  the  American  min- 
ister, admitting  them  to  a  conferencia  of  the  "Association  de  Agri- 
cultores  de  Espana,"  in  the  Botanical  Garden,  at  which  the  king 
would    probably    be   present. 

"The   king!"     cried    Bessie;   "when    is   it?" 

"At  this  moment,  senora,"  replied  Rico.  "I  have  been  watching 
anxiously  for  your  return.  If  your  worships  will  drive  there  at 
once,  you   will,   I    think,  not  be   too   late." 

Tommy    appeared    with    the    parasol,  breathless. 

"Jump,  in  Tommy!"  cried  his  father.  "Rico,  tell  the  driver 
whatever  means  as  fast  as  possible  ;  if,"  he  added  in  a  lower  tone, 
"there  is    any   word    in    Spanish    that    means,  the   reverse   of  slow." 

Rico's  word  to  the  coachman,  whatever  it  was,  had  good  effect, 
for  they  soon  found  themselves  at  the  entrance  of  the  garden,  and, 
following  the  crowd,  reached  a  portion  of  it  protected  from  the  sun 
by  awnings,  and  decorated  with  Spanish  flags.  A  sort  of  baldachino, 
under  which  dignitaries  were  to  be  seated,  was  prettily  festooned 
with  the  national  colors,  red  and  yellow.  Well  dressed  ladies,  for 
the  most  part,  occupied  the  garden  chairs,  placed  in  rows  before 
this    tent,  and    chatted  with    each    other   in    low   tones.     A    fair    pro- 


PRINCE    BALTHAZAR   CHARLES,   SON    OF    THILIP   THE   FOURTH.  — V<:lasqiiez, 


>  3  ■>  J 


3    J  J  J        J 

)        J  >  >         >   3 


3i3,>,       JJ,        3         i 


KING   ALPHONSO. 


295 


portion  of  gentlemen,  with  bald  heads,  and  tiny  orders  at  the  but- 
ton-hole, were  sprinkled  in  the  group.  The  sky  was  very  blue 
overhead,  and  where  the  sun  poured  through  the  openings  of  the 
leaves,  on    the   awning,  gay   parasols   were    necessary. 

After  awhile  a  slight  commotion  announced  the  approach  of  the 
royal  party.  Every  one  stood  up,  the  gentlemen  took  off  their  hats, 
all    eyes    were    turned   towards  the  group. 

It  was  not  like  seeing  Boabdil  (wrote  Bessie)  nor  yet  like  Ferdi- 
nand and  Isabella ;  and  it  was  quite  painful  to  see  how  little  crown  he 
had  on,  being  clothed,  in  fact,  like  any  young  man  of  five  and  twenty ; 
but  thus   it  is   with  kings    nowadays  ! 


The  young  man  walked  quickly  up  the  passage,  bowing  court- 
eously with  a  pleasant  smile  on  his  face,  to  those  who  greeted 
him.  He  was  followed  by 
his  ministers,  all  sage-looking, 
older  men.  They  seated  them- 
selves under  the  draped  awn- 
ing, and  listened  gravely  to 
a  discourse  upon  '^Los  aliados 
del  labrador  en  su  luchct  en- 
tomological which,  if  it  was 
tedious  to  the  Horners,  who 
did  not  make  out  a  quarter 
of  it,  must  have  been  still 
more  so   to  those  who  under- 


ENTRANCE  TO  BOTANICAL  GARDEN. 


stood  the  whole.  It  was  soon  over,  however,  and  after  a  few  brief 
words  from  the  king,  of  thanks  to  the  speaker  of  the  day,  the 
conference  broke  up.  The  Horners  had  the  luck  to  reach  the 
great  gateway  just  as  his  Majesty  was  climbing  into  a  light  dog- 
cart. He  took  the  reins  himself,  the  groom  sprang  up  behind 
him,    and    he   drove    off,    bowing   to    right   and    left. 

Our  republicans  gazed  at  the  spectacle  of  royal  simplicity,  with 
a   shade    of   depression.     Tommy   grumbled  : 

"  He    might    just  as    well    be   a    member    of    Congress." 


296 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN, 


"  How  glad  he  must  be  to  escape  from  the  grand  coach  of 
state,"   said    Bessie. 

"  I    wonder   which    horse   that   is  !  " 

Rico  had  taken  the  children  one  day  to  see  the  royal  stables, 
which  contain  upwards  of  three  hundred  horses,  and  two  hundred 
mules ;  long-maned    horses   of    the   cream  color,   called    Isabelle,    from 


STATE  CARRIAGES. 


the  color  of  the  lace  Queen  Isabella  wore.  It  was  she  who  set 
the  fashion  of  never  washing  her  laces,  according  to  Spanish  re- 
port. The  mules  are  first-rate,  and  much  admired  by  connoisseurs. 
In  the  early  Spanish  wars,  it  was  found  that  mules  were  used  so 
much  instead  of  horses,  that  a  law  was  made,  forbidding  all  war- 
riors to  ride  them,  and  limiting  them  to  churchmen  and  monks. 
Since  then  many  a  cardinal  has  been  proud  to  possess  mules  of 
great   beauty   and   strength    for   his    state   equipage. 

The  coach-houses  contain  all  sorts  of  vehicles,  some  of  them 
presents  from  sovereigns,  of  great  splendor,  and  also,  it  must  be 
said,   of   great    clumsiness. 

Madrid  has  not  always  been  the  capital  of  Spain.  It  had  no 
great  importance  until,  in  the  sixteenth  century,  it  became  the  con- 
stant  residence    of  Charles   the    Fifth.     The   climate   was    well   suited 


KING   ALPHONSO. 


297 


to  the  nerves  of  the  Emperor,  who  feared  the  earthquakes  of 
Granada,  and  cared  not  to  stay  at  Toledo,  which  was  the  capital, 
while  Madrid  was  but  a  hunting-box.  Philip,  carrying  out  the  idea 
of  his  father,  declared  Madrid  the  only  court  of  the  kingdom,  being 
himself  resolved  to  live  mostly  at  the  Escurial,  which  is  not  far 
off.  It  was,  on  the  whole,  a  wise  measure,  as  it  centralized  the 
power  in  a  new  city  free  from  the  local  prejudices  of  separate 
provinces.  Philip  did  not  live  to  carry  out  all  the  plans  he  had 
formed  for  his  new  capital.  His  successor,  Philip  the  Third,  held 
his  court  at  Valladolid,  but  the  climate  of  that  city  is  not  suited 
for  a  capital.  The  Bourbon  Philip  the  Fifth,  and  Charles  the 
Third,  added  much  to  the  beauty  of  Madrid,  and  it  is  now  cer- 
tainly  a   brilliant,   clean,    well-paved   and   well-lighted    city. 

The    Horners    loved    it.       No   other  foreign    city,  —  and  they    had 
passed    the   same   length     of    time    on    many,  —  gave    them    the    same 


ROYAL    STABLES. 


sense  of  homelike,  cheerful  friendliness.  The  people  in  the  streets 
were  always  kindly  and  gay.  Politeness  is  a  custom,  not  a  matter 
of  choice.  Even  the  lazy  fellow  who  sells  cooling  drinks  at  the 
street  corner,  touches  his  cap,  and  offers  conscientious  change  for 
the  smallest  of  coins.  There  is  much  life  and  movement  in  the 
streets,  and  though,  as  is  constantly  said,  the  national  costume  is 
disappearing,  some  picturesque  figures  are  yet  to  be  seen  here  and 
there.  The  mantilla  and  manta  have  not  given  place  altogether  to 
the    French    bonnet   and    tight-fitting   coat.     In    fact,    the   Horners,  in 


298 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


Spain,  became  so  familiar  with  short  breeches,  and  buttons  up  the 
leg,  of  all  good  Spaniards,  that  it  was  almost  a  shock  to  them  to 
see  the  draggling  trousers  hanging  about  the  feet  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  rest  of  Europe. 

The   Calle    de   Toledo    is  the   most    Spanish-looking     street    in  the 
capital.     It   is   crooked,   and   on  a   downward   slope.     The    houses  are 


COOLING   DRINKS. 


old,  and  booths  stand  on  the  sidewalk,  hung  with  gay  and  cheap 
pannelas,  worsted  stockings,  and  toys  for  children.  El  Rastro  is  a 
kind  of  pawnshop,  or  auction-room,  where  all  sorts  of  wonders  are 
bid  off  for  a  trifle.  Here  the  knowing  ones  pick  up  pieces  of 
tapestry,  rare  old  Spanish  embroidery,  and  bits  of  real  church-lace, 
for  a  song ;  but  it  is  an  ordeal  involving  smells  and  dirt,  and  great 
danger  of  being  cheated,  for  there  is  no  quarter  of  the  world  where 
second-hand  antiquities  are  exchanged  sajts  peur  et  sans  reproche. 
It    was    here    that   Tommy    got   lost   one   day.     He   missed    an    ap- 


KING  ALPHONSO. 


299 


pointment  with  Bessie  and  Rico,  by  waiting  too  long  at  the  bank 
with  his  father.  When  he  reached  home  alone,  he  found  the  apart- 
ment deserted,  and  a  brief  note  stuck  high  up  on  top  of  the  lamp- 
chimney,  to  attract  his  attention,  saying  : 


Bessie. 


Waited  till  quarter  of  eleven.     Suppose  you  do  not  care  to  go. 

Master  Tom,  finding  himself  thrown  upon  his  own  resources, 
thought  he  would  take  a  turn  alone  through  the  streets,  and  after 
studying  the  plan  of  Madrid  in  the  guide-book,  he  set  forth  in 
search  of  adventures,  determined  to  strike  for  unknown  parts  of  the 
town.     He   knew  his   way   across   the     Puerta   del    Sol,    and   down    to 


ULD    Sl'ANIiiH   jiMBROIDERV. 


the  Prado,  as  well  as 
the  main  street  in 
Keene,  N.  H.,  and 
he  thought  it  would 
be  fine  to  make  new 
discoveries.  So  he 
turned  into  the  Plaza 
Mayor,  and  walked 
along  under  the  ar- 
cade, looking  into  shop 
windows,  and  then  without  difficulty  found  himself  going  down  Toledo 
street  in  the  right  direction.  The  booths  amused  him.  He  bought 
a  tinsel  pin-case  of  an  ancient  senora  with  but  one  tooth.  Finding 
he  had  come  out  without  a  pocket-handkerchief,  he  bought  a  very 
gaudy  one  for  eight  cents,  with  a  yellow  border,  stamped  with 
blue  crosses.  It  was  not  hemmed,  and  proved  to  be  of  pure  cotton  ; 
but  it  answered  his  immediate  purpose.  He  came  to  a  sort  of 
meat-market  of  odds  and  ends  for  sale,  such  as  are  not  familiar  to 
American  children;  terrible  things  without  a  name,  in  Tommy's 
experience. 

Passing  hastily  through  this  row  of  booths,  he  perceived  that  the 
street  was  full  of  evil-looking  people,  quite  different  from  the  ele- 
gant  loungers   of   the    Puerta    del    Sol.     They   were   gypsies,   perhaps, 


GOO  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

or  Jews;  at  any  rate,  lawless-looking  people.  They  stared  at  him, 
and  occasionally  said  things  to  him  which,  of  course,  he  did  not 
understand.  He  began  to  wish  he  had  not  come,  and  hastily 
turned  into  a  quieter-looking  street,  which  ought  to  bring  him  out 
on  one  of  those  he  knew.  He  walked  and  walked  through  deserted 
thoroughfares,  without  shops  and  with  stately  houses,  all  lonely. 
No  carts  or  foot-passengers  were  passing.  Wherever  a  turning 
allowed,  he  went  downhill,  hoping  to  reach  one  of  the  Rondas,  a 
succession  of  streets  or  boulevards  which  surround  the  town.  He 
did,  at  last,  and  found  himself  on  a  wide,  dusty,  unpaved  road, 
with  high  walls  on  the  side  of  the  city,  and  on  the  other  a  broad, 
desolate  stretch  not  unlike  Shanty-town,  outside  the  park  at  New 
York.  It  was  hot.  The  noon  sun  poured  down  upon  him.  It 
seemed  an  endless  time  before  he  reached  the  familiar  Calle  de 
Atocha,    and   saw   at   the    same   time    the    fountains    of    the   Prado. 

There  was  still  a  long  walk  up  the  steep  hill  to  the  Puerta  del 
Sol ;    after   that,    a  few   steps    brought   him    to    their    house. 

Rico  stood  in  the  doorway,  tearing  his  hair  (figuratively).  Almu- 
erzo  had  long  been  over,  and  the  family  were  in  alarm.  Master 
Tom  was  very  hot,  very  hungry,  and  a  little  bit  cross. 


GATE   UF    HOSPICIO. 


)  J       3         3  3 
3       3  3         3 


PERRO  PACO. 


TOREROS  ENTERING  IHE  ARENA. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

PERRO    PACO. 

VEN  American  women 
whom  the  Horners  met 
in  Spain  said  they  really 
must  see  a  bull-fight, 
although  one  of  them 
herself  admitted  that 
she  had  fainted  when 
a  horse  was  killed,  and 
had  to  be  carried  out 
of  the  building.  But 
they  firmly  resisted ; 
in  fact,  firmness  was 
not  required,  for  no 
one  wished  to  go.  Mr, 
Horner  did  not  choose 
to  countenaiiCe  any 
performance  of  which 
his  moral  nature  so 
wholly  disapproved. 

Miss  Lejeune  could 
not  bear  the  thought 
of  going  for  an  instant. 
Bessie  belonged  to  the 


Society  for  the  Prevention  of    Cruelty  to    Animals,    and    the   fear   of 


304  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

Mr.  Bergh,  and  her  love  for  a  kind  friend  at  home,  devoted  to 
that  cause,  would  have  kept  her  away  even  if  curiosity  and  inclina- 
tion had  drawn  her  towards  the  spectacle.  Tommy  may  have  had 
a  secret  feeling  that  "  the  other  boys "  he  knew  would  expect  him 
to  have  been  to  a  bull-fight  ;  in  fact,  he  consulted  his  father 
privately,  as  to  whether  it  might  not  be  a  good  thing  for  him 
to   go    by   himself,    and    see    what    it   was. 

"  Do  you   really  want    to   go  ? "    asked   his    father. 
"  No ! "  replied    Tommy,   most   sincerely,    "  but   I    thought    perhaps 
it   might   seem  —  a   little   more    manly   to   see   the   thing." 

"  Go,  if  you  like,  my  son.  Rico  will  go  with  you  with  joy  ;  but, 
for   my    part,    I    think    it    is    more   manly    to    stay  away." 

Tommy  said  no  more,  and  the  last  Sunday  came  and  passed 
without    his    seeing  a   bull-fight.* 

Sunday  is  the  day  for  corridas  de  Toros,  and  during  th(>  season, 
no  week  passes  without  one  in  Madrid  and  Seville,  while  they  oc- 
cur   often   in    other  places. 

The  arena  is  a  circular  building,  like  the  coliseum,  with  seats 
rising  high  above  each  other.  It  is  open  to  the  air  above,  the 
seats    on   the    shady  side    commanding   the    highest    price. 

The  entertainment  is  highly  fashionable,  and  the  chief  argument 
for  foreigners  is,  going  to  see  the  crowds  of  gayly  dressed  and 
animated    spectators. 

Spanish  ladies  are  present,  handsomely  dressed  as  if  for  a  ball, 
and  the  king  usually  honors  the  occasion.  There  are,  however, 
many  other  opportunities  for  seeing  royalty,  and  chances  to 
inspect  the  beauty  and  fashion  of  the  capital,  even  if  less  bril- 
liant, are  not  accompanied  by  the  painful  spectacle  of  suffering 
creatures    and    human    beings    in  danger. 

There    was   one   hero    of    the  bull-ring   whom    they  would    all   have 
liked   to   see,    watching    the   performance,    as     he    never  failed    to   do. 
This   was    Perro    Paco,    an    individual   who  just    at   the    time    the 
Homers   were   in    Madrid,    occupied    the   attention,    and    held   the    af- 
fections,  of  the    whole   population. 

*  Although  the  Homers  did  not  see  a  bull-fight,  some  illustrations  of  the  spectacle  are  in- 
serted to  show  the  cruel  and  bloody  nature  of  the  sport. 


PERRO   PACO. 


305 


Perro  Paco,  as  his  name  shows,  was  a  dog,  a  real  live  do"-, 
who  lived  at  a  restaurant  in  the  Calle  Alcala.  Tommy  saw  him 
there  one  day,  when  he  was  pointed  out  to  him  by  Rico ;  but 
as   Tommy   did    not    understand    the    Spanish    description    of  him,    he 


TOREROS  BEFORE  THE  CAFE  DE  PARIS. 


failed   to   give   him   the   amount   of  attention  his  reputation  deserves. 
It   was    only   later   that   they   learned    his   history. 

Perro  Paco  came  to  town  once  with  a  muleteer  from  the  country, 
and  finding,  it  would  seem,  city  life  more  attractive  than  his  for- 
mer rural  one,  he  allowed  his  master  to  go  away  without  him,  and 
took  up  his  own  residence  in  the  capital.  Left  without  a  master, 
he  showed  himself  quite  able  to  take  care  of  himself  He  attached 
himself  to  the  restaurant  just  mentioned,  and  always  presented  him- 
self there    at   dinner-time,  sure   of   a   meal  ;    for   at    first    he   was    fed 


806 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


from  kindness,  and  soon  he  became  the  pet  of  the  establishment. 
Every  day  he  had  his  dinner  from  the  plate  of  some  habitue  of 
the   place,    and   always   honored    this   host   by   escorting   him   to    his 


PICADORS  PREPARING  FOR  THE  COMBAT. 

house  after  the  entertainment.  He  passed  the  day,  after  the  usual 
manner  of  dogs,  in  wandering  about  the  streets,  or  sleeping  in 
sunny   corners  ;    but   every  evening  he  went    regularly  to    the  theatre, 


PEERO    PACO.  307 

selecting  different  ones  in  turn,  as  if  he  had  consulted  the  play 
bills.  He  walked  down  the  theatre  to  a  front  seat  in  the  pit, 
near  the  orchestra,  where  he  listened  always  attentively  to  the  scene 
on  the  stage,  occasionally  expressing  his  approval,  or  the  reverse, 
with  short  barks,  never  loud  enough  to  disturb  the  audience.  A 
place  was  always  made  for  him,  and  no  alguazil  would  have  dared 
to  wound  the  susceptibility  of  the  Madrilefios  by  turning  out  their 
favorite. 

On  Sunday,  he  went  regularly  to  the  bull-fight,  and  one  of  the 
chief  attractions  there  was  Perro  Paco  watching  the  combat  with 
the  keenest  interest,  his  own  arrival  greeted  with  applause,  which 
he  received  modestly,  always  conducting  himself  with  perfect  decorum, 
and  recognizing  always  the  public  approval  with  a  dignified  wag  of 
the   tail. 

Perro  Paco  was  the  favorite  of  the  hour.  The  walls  were  plac- 
arded with  his  portraits,  a  polka  named  for  him,  with  his  likeness 
on  the  outside  sheet,  sold  readily.  A  daily  newspaper  called  El 
Perro  Paco  professed  to  announce  the  opinions  of  the  learned 
animal  on  every  subject,  especially  political  ones,  thus  making  him 
the   vehicle    of   all    manner   of  squibs    against   the   ruling   ministry. 

He  was  only  a  common  cur,  to  tell  the  truth  ;  smooth  black, 
with  white  spots,  though  a  certain  distinction  marked  the  way  in 
which  he  wore  his  white  shirt  front.  All  the  other  black  and  white 
dogs  came  into  notice  on  his  account.  "  Is  that  Perro  Paco } " 
was   the    question    when    they    came    into    view. 

Paco  was  but  three  years  old  when  the  Homers  were  in  Madrid, 
and  had  enjoyed  his  fame  less  than  a  year.  Alas !  his  career  was 
a  brief   one,  and    he    came  to    a   tragic    end. 

The  day  the  party  left  Madrid,  one  Monday  morning  in  the 
train,  which  was  crowded,  their  compartment  was  shared  by  two  or 
three  Spanish  gentlemen  diligently  reading  their  morning  papers 
as   they  whiffed   away   at   cigarettes. 

Mr.  Horner  had  not  found  time  in  the  hurry  of  packing,  to  open 
his  newspaper;  he  was  therefore  surprised  to  hear  one  of  the 
Spaniards    say   "  Pobre    Perro    Paco  !  " 


308 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


Bessie   too,  heard   it,  and   could  not  resist   an    exclamation    and   an 

inquiry. 

The    gentleman,   smiling,    asked   with    a    bad    accent,     "You     read 

Spanish  ? "    and  handed  her  the  paragraph.     She  read  fluently  enough 

to   announce   to    the   rest   the   sad  information :    Perro  Paco  had  been 

mortally  wounded   at   the   bull-fight   the   day    before. 

It    seemed   that    he   became   so   interested  in    the    contest,  that   he 

sprang  down  into  the  arena,  and  began  to  jump  about  the  exas- 
perated bull.  The  mat- 
ador, either  by  acci- 
dent, or  because  he 
was  angry  with  the 
dog  for  interfering, 
jealous,  perhaps,  of  the 
attention  Perro  Paco 
always  drew  to  him- 
self, wounded  him  in 
the  side  with  his  sharp 
weapon  intended  for 
the  bull :  Paco  fell. 
The  excitement  was 
intense.  Nobody  cared 
what  happened  to  the 
bull,  or  what  became 
of  the  Espada.  The 
poor  wounded  dog  was 
put  under  the  care  of 

two   or    three    skilful    physicians.       All    the     medical    knowledge    of 

Madrid  was  lavished  on  him.  but  in  vain. 

At   the   time   of   the   paragraph    Bessie   read,    Perro    Paco   was    still 

living,  but   they  heard    the   next   day    at    Zaragoza,  that   the  dog  was 

dead. 

He  was  permitted  to  lie  in  state  for  a  few  days,  and  it  was 
said  that  crowds  of  people  came  to  look  at  the  dead  form  of  the 
popular   hero.     Obituaries   were  written    on   him,    poems    composed  in 


A   FAIR  SPECTATOR. 


PERRO    PACO. 


309 


his  honor,  and  his  last  will  and  testament  was  published ;  a  docu- 
ment   meant  to  be  witty,  and  aiming  at  political  reform. 

In  a  few  days,  doubtless,  he  was  forgotten,  and  some  new  play- 
thing was  amusing  the  volatile  people  of  Madrid.  Their  devotion 
to  Perro  Paco,  the  enthusiasm  for  a  dog  which  was  universal 
throughout  the  capital,  is  a  perfectly  good  illustration  of  the  light- 
ness and  gayety  of  the  Madrilehos,  or  "  Gatos  de  Madrid,"  as  they 
call  themselves. 

The  Espada,  or  matador,  who  puts  the  finishing  touch  to  the 
corrida,  by  piercing  the  bull,  is  often  a  popular  favorite  ;  the  hero 
of  the  hour.  These  men  must  possess  great  daring,  a  quick  eye, 
firm  wrist,  and  presence  of  mind.  They  are  paid  a  large  sum  for 
each  performance,  besides  the  plaudits  and  bouquets  of  the  audience. 
The  matador,  however,  who  slew  the  pet  of  the  people,  the  admired 
Perro    Paco,    won    for 


himself  an  unenviable 
fame.  The  Spaniards 
in  the  train  were  con- 
fident that  his  day  was 
over ;  that  he  would 
never  be  able  to  face 
an  audience  or  a  bull 


agam. 


The  Horners   were 
as  much  surprised  as 
any  reader  can  be  to 
find      themselves     all 
packed      up,      shawl- 
strapped,    and     again  orange  boy  in  arena. 
on  their   travels.     The   fortnight    in    Madrid    had  gone    like   lightning, 
and   it    had    nevertheless    been    long    enough    for    them    to    do    much 
sight-seeing,  and   to  become  greatly  attached  to  the  capital    of   Spain. 

As  for  the  Ricos,  they  were  in  despair  to  bid  farewell  to  the 
friendly  Americans  ;  and  the  regret  was  mutual,  for  the  worthy  host 
had   been   so   attentive,  intelligent,  and    helpful,  that  they  all   came  to 


310 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


regard  him  as  a  friend.  The  Horners  long  remembered  as  a  kind 
of  home,  their  long  narrow  rooms  with  large  windows  overlooking 
the  Calle  Mayor;  with  the  bray  of  donkeys  in  the  early  morning,  and 
later  on,  the  music  of  the  hand-organ,  mingled  with  the  heavier 
noises  of  the  street,  —  the  pleasant  almuerzos  and  comidas  about 
the  round  table  in  their  small  dining-room,  served  by  the  ever- 
anxious  Rico,  who  watched  every  mouthful,  to  see  if  the  senoras 
were  satisfied  with  the  food,  and  the  quiet  evenings  around  their 
lamp,  when,  tired  after  standing  about  in  the  gallery,  or  a  long  suc- 
cession of  armories  and  royal  stables,  they  talked  or  wrote  letters, 
mended  the  now  much  deteriorated  toilets,  and  consulted  maps 
and  guide-books  as  to  the  rest  of  their  course. 

Before  they  left  Madrid,  it  was  quite  settled  that  Philip  should 
join  them  at  Zaragoza ;  and  this  was  the  one  prospect  that  cheered 
them  in  breaking  up  their  establishment.  The  packing  was  some- 
thing fearful,  so  many  photographs,  books,  Spanish  mantas  and  hats 
had  to  be  now  finally  disposed  of  in  trunks. 


OUTSIDE  VIEW   OF  THE   ARENA. 


NAPOLEON  IN  SPAIN. 


811 


CHAPTER   XXXVI. 


NAPOLEON    IN    SPAIN. 


SPAIN,  after  Philip 
the  Fifth,  was  gov- 
erned by  three  of  his 
sons  in  succession,  the 
last  of  whom,  Charles 
the  Third,  held  the 
throne  until  1788.  He 
was  a  prince  of  consid- 
erable talent,  excellent 
intentions,  and  blame- 
less morals,  and  through 
his  ministers,  he  intro- 
duced the  country  to  a 
degree  of  prosperity  to 
which  it  had  been 
unused  since  the  days 
of  Philip  the  Second. 
His    son   Charles  the 

CHARLES  THE  THIRD.  p^^^^j^      SUCCCCded     him, 

but    he,  unlike   his    father,   was  more  weak   and    pitiful   than   any  sov- 
ereign of  the  age. 

Spain  had  no  part  in  the  French  Revolution  at  the  end  of  the 
eighteenth  century,  but  it  was  now  about  to  become  the  theatre  of 
events  that  opened  a  new  world  of  hope  to  Europe.  Napoleon, 
who  had  been  passing  from  conquest  to  conquest,  after  the  battle 
of  Jena,  in  which  the  Prussian  army,  opposed  to  him,  had  been 
annihilated,  now  turned  his  attention  to  Spain. 


312 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


The  crown-prince  Ferdinand,  and  his  father,  the  king,  were  at 
enmity  with  each  other.  Each  sought  the  aid,  or  at  least  the  sym- 
pathy, of  Napoleon,  most  unwisely ;  for  such  communications  gave 
that  wily  manager  a  pretext  for  intervention  he  had  long  desired. 
It  was  universally  believed  he  had  espoused  the  cause  of  the  prince ; 
and  this  view  was  a  popular  one,  for  the  queen,  his  mother,  was 
especially  hated  by  the  Spanish.  Thus  the  French  gradually  entered 
the  peninsula  without  exciting  suspicion.  The  king  and  court,  ter- 
rified, took  flight  from  Mad- 
rid, seeing  before  them 
otherwise  the  fate  of  Louis 
the  Sixteenth,  who  delayed 
too  long.  The  king  published 
a  decree  abdicating  in  favor 
of  his  son. 

But  this  was  not  what 
Napoleon  wanted.  By  his 
orders,  Murat  was  already 
on  his  way  to  Madrid  to  as- 
sume command,  and  it  did 
not  suit  his  plan  that  the 
Spaniards  should  themselves 
settle  their  difficulty.  The 
French  troops  entered  Mad- 
rid, and  Ferdinand,  relying 
on  their  countenance,  made 
his  solemn  entry  into  the 
capital,  but  again  unwisely  was  persuaded  to  leave  Madrid  and  go  to- 
Bayonne  to  meet  the  emperor,  never  dreaming  but  that  he  was  to  be 
recognized  by  this  powerful  ally  as  the  legitimate  successor  of 
Charles  the  Fourth,  instead  of  which,  after  a  gloomy  dinner  of 
state,  the  unfortunate  prince  was  informed  that  he,  too,  must  renounce 
the  crown  of  Spain. 

Meantime    there    was   open    insurrection    in    the   capital.     The    pop- 
ulace  broke  out,  and  French    soldiers  were  attacked  and  killed.     But 


MONUMENT  OF  THE  DOS  DE  MAYO. 


DRIVIXG   THE    KULLS    DOWN. 


NArOLEON  IN  SPAIN.  3j5 

the  vengeance  of  Murat  was  swift.  The  insurgents  were  over- 
powered, and  numbers  of  citizens  shot  in  cold  blood.  This  was  on 
the  twentieth  of  May,  1808,  and  an  obelisk  called  El  dos  de  Mayo 
commemorates  the  gallant  resistance  of  the  people  under  two  lead- 
ers, Daoiz  and  Velarde,  who  there  won  the  name  the  first  heroes 
of  Spanish  independence.  When  Ferdinand,  who  was  still  at 
Bayonne,  heard  this,  he  yielded,  and  resigned  the  crown,  and  for 
a  couple  of  country  houses,  and  two  life  annuities,  the  crown  of 
Spain  and  the  Indies  was  renounced  in  favor  of  Napoleon,  by  both 
father  and  son. 

The  Spanish  nation  was  not  inclined  to  submit ;  the  country  was 
thrown  into  tumult.  On  all  sides  the  population  declared  war  on 
Napoleon,  and  called  upon  England  for  assistance ;  but  Joseph 
Bonaparte  was  brought  from  Naples  to  receive  the  crown,  and 
divisions  of  the  French  army  sent  against 
the  insurgents  in  all  directions.  They 
were  entirely  routed  at  Baylen,  and  Sir 
Arthur  Wellesley  (afterwards  the  Duke 
of  Wellington)  landed  in  Portugal  with 
English   troops    to   help  the    Spanish. 

At     this     time     Napoleon    himself    was 
occupied  elsewhere ;    but  at    the   beginning 

^     ,       ,  VELARDE   AND    DAOIZ. 

of  November,  1808,  he  crossed  the  Pyrenees, 

to  examine  more  closely  the  victories  of  the  Spaniards.  In  December 
he  marched  against  the  forces  of  Sir  John  Moore,  who  had 
entered  Spain  from  Portugal  with  an  English  army,  but  who  was 
forced  now  to  retreat.  He  was  pursued  by  Soult,  with  a  body  of 
French  troops,  and  attacked  at  Corunna.  The  French  were  defeated, 
but  Moore  fell  at  the  moment  of  his  victory.  Every  child  knows 
the  "Burial  of  Sir  John  Moore."  He  was  buried  in  haste,  for 
the  English  ships  were  waiting  to  take  the  troops,  and  it  was 
unsafe  to  delay,  as  the  French  were  close  at  hand  with  numbers 
far   superior. 

Napoleon    now    thought   the    Spanish    matter   was    settled,    and   left 
Spain,    with    his    brother   Joseph    in    possession    of    the   capital.       But 


816 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


before    this    great   general    had   been    many   weeks    in    Paris,    reports 
reached    him    of  continued    insubordination. 

The  city  of  Zaragoza    had   successfully  resisted  its   besiegers  in  the 


'"r.^'^'^rm'/n 


THE   ESI'ADA. 


summer  of  1808,  and    early   the   next   year    its  walls   were  stormed  in 
from    different   places,    according    to    the    ordinary  precedents    ot    war. 


THE  ARENA. 


•       9  O 

'        1       J 


NAPOLEON  IN  SPAIN.  319 

The  place  was  now  in  possession  of  the  French,  but  the  besiegers 
found   on    the    contrary   that   their   work   was    only  begun. 

The  streets  were  trenched  and  barricaded.  Every  dwelling  was 
converted  into  a  fortress,  and  for  many  days  the  French  were  forced 
to  besiege  house  by  house.  The  inhabitants  had  no  organized 
army,  and  the  people  would  obey  no  one  but  some  stout  peasants 
chosen  by  themselves,  and  Palafox,  a  young  officer  of  the  king's 
body-guard.  The  city  was  mad  with  patriotism  and  hatred  of  the 
French,  and  there  was  singing  and  dancing  in  the  streets.  The 
Maid  of  Zaragoza,  a  very  pretty  girl,  named  Agustina,  only  twenty- 
two  years  of  age,  fought  side  by  side  with  her  lover,  and  when  he 
fell,  mortally  wounded,  worked  his  cannon  herself.  Wilkie  has 
painted    her   portrait,    and    Byron    has    sung    her   fame. 

The  brave  city  had  to  surrender  at  last.  On  the  twentieth  of 
February,  what  was  left  of  Zaragoza  capitulated,  for  no  attempt  was 
made  to  relieve  it.  In  other  places  the  Spanish  were  beaten,  and 
it  appeared  as  if  the  subjugation  of  the  Spanish  peninsula  must 
become    complete. 

Had  the  Emperor  himself  taken  up  the  command,  this  would 
have  probably  been  the  case ;  but  he  was  elsewhere  occupied  in 
arms,  and  with  his  second  marriage  to  Marie  Louise.  Moreover, 
Wellington  was  unlike  any  of  the  generals  whom  Napoleon  had  before 
encountered.  In  July,  1812,  after  many  successes  and  reverses, 
Wellington  marched  upon  Madrid.  King  Joseph  fled,  and,  althouo-h 
this  was  not  the  end,  it  was  the  beginning  of  it.  In  1813  Spain 
was  rid  of  her  enemies.  In  June  Wellington  won  the  famous  bat- 
tle of  Vittoria,  and  ended  the  contest.  A  year  later  the  power  of 
Napoleon    everywhere    was    over. 

The  Bourbon  dynasty  both  in  France  and  Spain  was  restored, 
and  Ferdinand  the  Seventh  was  reinstated.  But  as  we  have  seen 
in  the  course  of  this  period  of  agitation,  the  Spanish  people  had 
gained  ideas  of  more  independence  in  government,  and  the  an- 
cient arbitrary  rule  of  monarchs  and  favorites  was  forever  at  an 
end. 

"  How  do  you    think    your    Napoleon  appears    now,    papa  ? "    asked 


320  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

Bessie,  after  they  had  been  reviewing  these  things,  in  connection  with 
Zaragoza',    which   they  were   fast    approaching   in    the    train, 

"  Still  as  a  great  man,  my  dear,  and  a  wonderfully  interesting 
one. 

In  Egypt,  the  Horners  had  seen  the  battle-fields  where  Bonaparte 
undertook  to  estabhsh  the  rule  of  France, — in  Berlin  the  trophies 
returned  which  he  had  carried  off, — at  Jena,  the  scene  of  one  of 
his    most    signal  triumphs. 

"  But  everywhere,  papa,  we  see  the  destruction  caused  by  his 
troops  ;  and  if  you  wish  to  see  the  art  treasures  of  the  countries  he 
has    conquered,    you    must   go    to    the    Louvre." 

"  That  sounds,  Bessie,  as  if  it  came  out  of  a  guide-book ! "  said 
Miss  Lejeune ;  "  and  as  for  the  pictures,  Spain  has  succeeded  bet- 
ter  than    other  countries  in    protecting   her   treasures." 

Bessie  blushed  a  little,  and  admitted  that  she  only  said  it  to  tease 
papa.  "  But  the  French  generals  did  carry  off  quantities  of  things 
from    the   churches,  and    blew   up   fortresses    everywhere." 

After  the  battle  of  Vittoria,  the  French  fled  in  disorder,  Joseph 
himself  riding  a  mule.  It  is  said  that  nearly  two  thousand  vehicles 
were  collected  behind  the  town  containing  the  plunder  of  the 
French  army  during  the  five  years  on  the  Peninsula  ;  and  when 
Joseph's  own  carriage  was  seized,  it  was  gorged  with  stolen  goods. 
Some  cabinet  pictures  belonging  to  the  royal  family  thus  came  into  the 
hands  of  the  Duke  of  WelUngton,  and  afterwards  adorned  the  walls 
of  Apsley  house ;  and  it  may  be  supposed  that  the  English  were 
not  behindhand  in  taking  their  share  of  the  spoils,  deeming  it  now 
fairly   theirs    by    right    of  conquest. 

The  Horners  were  now  fairly  on  their  way  out  of  Spain,  as 
Zaragoza  was  to  be  one  of  their  last  halting  places.  This  journey, 
to  their  great  satisfaction,  could  be  made  by  daylight,  and  it  proved 
a  pleasant  contrast  to  the  last  weary  jaunt  from  Jaen  to  Madrid, 
when  they  were  tired  and  dusty  from  their  long  morning  in  the 
diligence.  They  were  now  fresh  and  wide  awake,  and  enjoyed  the 
scenery  from  the  windows,  though  it  seems  tame  after  the  glowing 
soil  of  Andalusia,  and   the  abrupt   passes    of  the   Sierra   Nevada. 


1 


NAPOLEON  IN  SPAIN. 


323 


They  were  now  in  Aragon,  the  kingdom  of  Ferdinand  and  his 
ancestors,  joined,  at  his  marriage  with  Isabella,  to  Castile.  The 
native  dress  is  somewhat  different  from  that  of  other  parts  of  Spain. 
Knee  breeches  of  cotton  velvet  ornamented  with  filagree  buttons 
were  worn  by  the  men,  and  short  black  velvet  waistcoats,  showing 
the  wide  girdle  or  faja  below,  which  holds  all  sorts  of  things,  like 
a  pocket.  The  panuelas  worn  by  men  and  women  upon  their  heads, 
were  tied  about  the  forehead  like  a  band,  leaving  the  top  of  the 
head  uncovered. 


^f-TT-i'—r-t 


END  OF  THE  CONTEST. 


324 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 


PHILIP  S     ADVENTURES. 


ARE  you  really  here,  dear  Philip, 
safe  and  sound .-' "  demanded 
Miss  Lejeune,  as  she  looked  him 
carefully  over,  to  make  sure  with  her 
own  eyes  that  she  had  hold  of  the 
right   boy. 

"  Safe  and  sound,  aunt  Dut,  and 
glad  to  be  here,  for  your  night  trains 
are  tiresome  work." 

Philip  was  sitting  on  a  sofa  in 
their  hotel  room  at  Zaragoza,  with 
Miss  Lejeune  on  one  side  of  him 
and  Bessie  on  the  other.  Mr.  Hor- 
ner sat  opposite,  and  Tommy  leaned 
on   the  railing  of  the  window. 


How 


have 


ARMS   OF  ZARAGOZA. 


you  nave  grown,  my 
dear!"  continued  Miss  Lejeune. 
"  How    could    you    do    it    in   two    months  .-* " 

"  Nonsense,  Miss  Lejeune,"  he  replied.  "  It  is  only  because  you 
have  forgotten  how  I  look.  Measure,  papa,  will  you  ?  I  was  not 
quite  up  to  you  when  we  parted." 

They  stood  up,  back  to  back,  close  together.  Philip  was  percept- 
ibly taller  than  his  father,  though  his  shoulder  did  not  reach  the 
broader  line  of  his  stouter  parent's  back. 

"  Altogether,  he  looks  different,  however,"  said  Bessie,  eying  him 
critically. 

"Come,    I  won't    stand   this!"     he    exclaimed,    half    laughing   and 


PHILIP'S  ADVENTURES. 


325 


half  annoyed.      "  I    am  as   hungry   as   a   bear,    and    don't    fancy    this 
close  inspection." 

The  fact  was,  he  had  grown,  and  had  gained  an  air  of  manliness 
and  self-reliance  which  changed  him.  His  hair  was  thick,  and 
rather  longer  than  he  usually  wore  it.  Tommy  was  secretly  a 
little   afraid   of  him. 

The  Horners  had  arrived  at  Zaragoza  the  evening  before,  and 
had  gone  at  once  to  the  hotel  agreed  upon,  half  expecting  to  find 
Philip  there  before  them.  On  the  contrary,  there  was  no  sign  of 
him,  and  the  most  careful  inquiry  failed  to  reveal  him  ;  —  they  all 
remembered  a  time  when  they  were  to  meet  in  a  hotel  at 
Cologne,  and  remained  hidden  from  each  other  for  several  hours. 


LUZ. 


There  was  no  cause  for  anxiety,  because  the  time  and  hour  of 
arrival  had  not  been  absolutely  fixed  ;  and  they  went  to  bed  full  of 
hope  for  the  morning,  Miss  Lejeune  and  Bessie  in  two  little  dark 
bedrooms,  opening  by  glass  doors  upon  the  salon,  and  the  others 
in  another  room  near  by.  Still  Mr.  Horner  was  greatly  relieved 
to  be  aroused  about  seven,  the  next  morning,  by  a  good  sharp 
knock   at    his   door,    and   a    well-known    voice,    saying : 


826  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

"Mr.    Horner? — Papa,   are   you   here?" 

The  door  was  instantly  open  to  him,  and  a  very  merry  reception 
ensued,    as   the   costumes   of  the   hosts   were   not   full   dress. 

"  I  recognized  your  boots,  sir,  at  once,  at  the  door,  and  knew 
there   could   be   no    mistake." 

Mr.  Horner's  boots  were  well  known  to  his  family,  for  he  had  a 
theory  about  his  feet  which  caused  him  to  wear  them  of  an  indi- 
vidual  type,    with    which  they  were  all  familiar. 

Philip  had  been  travelling  by  rail  from  Huesca,  the  farthest 
point  on  the  railway  line  which  will  one  day  make  a  new  route 
over  the  Pyrenees  with  France,  The  ladies  were  aroused  by  the 
welcome  knocking  and  laughter  next  door,  and  soon  all  were 
ready  and  waiting  for  their  coffee  to  be  brought,  and  something 
more   substantial  for   Philip. 

Question  followed  question.  They  were  all  impatient  to  know 
Phil's  experiences,  and  yet  too  full  of  their  own  news  to  keep 
silent  themselves,  until  Mr.  Horner  said,  "Come,  now,  begin 
regularly    and   tell   your   adventures. 

"How  did  you  get  on,  my  dear,"  asked  Miss  Lejeune,  "in 
those   wild    places   where   they   speak   no  French  ? " 

"  Why,    I    can    speak    Spanish,"    said    Philip  with    a   sly   smile, 

"What!"    they   all    exclaimed.    "You    speak  Spanish?" 

"Do  not  be  so  set  up  about  your  own  accomplishments," 
replied  he ;  and  as  the  waiter  entered  opportunely  at  that  moment 
with  the  tray,  he  very  coolly  gave  in  Spanish  all  the 
necessary  directions  for  what  was  lacking,  and  asked  the  proper 
questions  about  the  time  of  almuerzo,  etc.,  with  as  much  ease  as 
any  of  them  could  have  shown.  The  others  gazed  amazed,  and 
Bessie   said,  "  Philip,    what's   this  ?  " 

"  Oh !  I  picked  it  up ;  don't  you  worry.  Besides,  if  you  keep 
asking  me  questions,  I  shall  never  get  on."  As  he  spoke,  he 
helped  himself  to  a  very  nice-looking  omelette,  while  Miss 
Augusta   was   preparing   coffee   for   the   rest. 

"  Tommy,  you  may  have  half  my  omelette,"  Philip  went  on. 
"  If  I    eat   this   chop   beside,    I   shall   do." 


PHILIP'S  ADVENTURES. 


327 


"Well!"  said  Mr.  Horner,  and  "Well!"  said  all  the  rest. 
Philip  then  began,  and  gave,  not  without  interruptions  and  excla- 
mations from  the  rest,  the  account  of  his  wonderful  crossing  of 
the  Pyrenees. 

"In  the  first  place,"  he  said,  "you  have  no  idea  yet  how 
lovely  It  is  at  Luz ;  such  a  pretty  valley,  shut  in  by  hills,  with 
distant  peaks  filling  the  gap  where  it  opens,  and  our  robber  castle 
overlooking  the  town.  Mamma  and  Mary  came  with  me  up  to 
the  Cirque  de  Gavarnie,  which  is  a  wonderful  place, —  an  amphitheatre 


CIRQUE   DE   GAVARNIE. 

of  immense  rocks,  snow  covered,  and  a  waterfall  dropping  down 
the  steep  precipice.  It  is  one  of  the  sights  in  the  Pyrenees, 
and  we  had  seen  it  at  a  great  distance  from  a  peak  we  went 
up   on   donkeys." 

"You  wrote    about    that,"    said  Tommy. 

"  Don't  interrupt !  "  said  Bessie,  giving  him  a  thump  with  her 
elbow. 

"  From  the  road  as  you  approached  the  Cirque,"  continued 
Philip,  "can  be  seen  up  high  against  the  sky,  the  Breche  de 
Roland  "  — 


328 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


"  I  know ! "  cried  Bessie,  "  which  he  cut  with  one  hack  of  his 
sword    Durendal "  — 

"Don't  interrupt!"  retorted  Tommy,  returning  her  thump  with 
interest. 

"Well,  through  that  breach  I  determined  to  go,"  said  Philip; 
"and  although  people  wagged  their  heads  and  said  it  was  impossi- 
able,  I    managed    to   accomplish   it,  and  what   was    more,  to   persuade 

mamma    it   was    the 
•  same  thing  as  going 
in   a  horse-car. 

"  You  must  know 
I  had  been  cramming 
Spanish  to  fill  up 
my  time  at  Luz,  and 
there  is  a  good  old 
Spaniard  in  the  hotel 
who  loves  to  talk 
with  us.  Mary  does 
it  in  French  ;  but  I 
soon  got  to  risking 
my  Castellano,  and 
he  was  delighted. 
The  donkey  women 
and  men  talk  a  vile 
patois,  —  a  queer  mix- 
ture of  French  and 
Spanish,  and  Basque, 
for  aught  I  knew, — 
and  I  picked  up  a  good  deal  of  that,  which  was  lucky ;  for  by 
talking  with  them  at  Gavarnie,  I  found  out  there  was  a  Spanish 
guide  who  was  coming  back  into  Spain,  and  who  knew  the  pass 
through    the    Breche   de    Roland    perfectly  well." 

"  How    splendid  ! "    murmured    Bessie,    and    again   was    nudged    by 
Tommy. 

"  I  shall    say    splendid,"    said  Bessie,   "  that    is    not  interrupting." 


PHILIP'S  ADVENTURES.  329 

"  Splendid  it  was  ! "  exclaimed  Philip  •,  "  I  never  enjoyed  anything 
so  much.  The  guide's  name  was  Manuel  Molina,  and  he  was 
excellent.  He  talks  a  little  English,  and  knows  everything.  We 
started  early  in  the  morning  from  the  little  house  in  the  Cirque  ; 
then  we  crossed  the  stream  that  makes  the  waterfall,  and  it  was 
like  flies  walking  on  the  side  of  a  wall  after  that,  only  there  was 
a   jDath. 

"The  breach  itself  is  a  narrow  passage  between  those  high  walls, 
nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  then  we  came  out  on  the  Spanish 
side,   and   could  see  away  off  into    Aragon! 

"By  and  by  we  had  a  superb  view  of  the  Mont  Perdu,  the 
highest  peak  but  two  of  the  Pyrenees.  It  is  in  Spain,  and  with 
its  two  connected  peaks,  is  called  Las  tres  Hermanas.  Then  we 
went  on  and  reached  a  little  place  called  Gaulis,  where  there  is  a 
cabin,  very  comfortable,  and  a  most  friendly  Spanish  shepherd. 
There   we   spent   the   night,    and    I   tell   you    I    was    tired. 

"  The  next  day  we  came  down  to  Boucharo,  and  after  that,  it 
is  a  very  easy  walk  by  a  lake,  to  a  hideous  place  called  the  Baths 
of  Panticosa.  I  could  not  bear  the  thought  of  stopping  there  for 
an  instant.  It  is  all  built  up  with  hotels  and  pretentious  fountains, 
like  a  water-cure  establishment,  which  it  is.  Luckily  I  found  there 
was  a  good  road  down  to  Jaca,  and  we  got  horses  and  rode  to  it 
that  night.  My  guide  left  me  there  to  go  back  into  France  over 
the  new  diligence  route.  It  was  Saturday  night,  and  at  first  we 
thought  we  should  have  to  sleep  in  the  streets,  for  the  little 
town  was  crowded,  on  account  of  a  fiesta,  for  the  whole  country 
round.  Everybody  gabbling  Spanish,  but  just  as  friendly  and 
hospitable  as  possible ;  so  that  I  was  glad  that  I  had  to  stay 
over  Sunday,  although  that  is  why  I  did  not  arrive  here  sooner. 
There  was  a  grand  procession  with  delegations  from  every  village, 
each  bearing  its  own  standard.  Bishops,  in  their  robes,  stiff  with 
gold,  images,  and  relics  of  Saint  Orosia,  and  dancing  boys  with 
castanets,  who  danced  backwards  in  the  procession,  quite  like  those 
Arabs,    Bessie,  at   Jerusalem." 

"Dervishes,"    corrected   Bessie. 


830 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


"The  crowd,"  continued  Philip,  "was  just  as  interesting  as  the 
procession  ;  for  different  villages  have  different  costumes.  Bright 
purple  seemed  the  prevailing  color  for  sashes  ;  but  there  was  every 
gaudy    tint    imaginable    swarming    in     the     streets.     If    you've    been 


A    KELAV. 


seeing    these   things    all    the    time,    you    must  have  had   a  wild  expe- 


rience. 


"All    days   are     not    Saints'    days,"    said    Mr.     Horner.       "And    I 
fan:y  you    have   seen  something  different  from  any  of   our  wonders." 


PHILIP'S  ADVEXTURES. 


831 


"Monday  night  I  came  away  from  my  dear  little  Jaca.  It  is  a 
walled    town,    Bessie ;    we   walked   all   around   it  at    sunset." 

"Who    was   we?" 

"  The  landlord  Mor ;  just  the  nicest  man  you  ever  saw.  Our 
conversation  was  rather  limited,  but  he  seemed  to  enjoy  my 
Spanish  ! " 

"  He    must   be   exactly   like    Rico ! "    they  exclaimed. 

Philip  came  from  Jaca  to  Huesca  by  a  diligence,  much  like 
that  which  brought  the  others  from  Grenada  to  Jaen.  He  was 
perched  up  in  the  cupe,  where  he  slept  a  little,  but  woke  occa- 
sionally, to  see  the  moon  lighting  the  drowsy  towns  through  which 
they  passed.  At  Huesca,  a  stupid,  glaring  town,  he  had  to  wait 
all  day ;  but  he  was  so  sleepy,  a  bed  and  quiet  was  all  he 
demanded  of  the  place ;  after  which  he  came  on  by  rail,  and 
reached  Zaragoza  as  we  have  seen,  early  in  the  following 
morning. 


^  --C    .^f 

\   \  \ 


■^^^lii'-i~i]C<:'^\~ 


/2?  ^iH     '  - 


332  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  bPAlN. 


CHAPTER      XXXVIII. 


ZARAGOZA. 


WITH  added  zest  on  account  of  Philip's  arrival,  the  Horners 
set  about  sight-seeing  in  Zaragoza.  There  are  two  cathe- 
drals to  be  visited,  one  of  which  is  very  ancient,  a  severe  and 
sombre  pile,  which  dates  back  290  a.  d.  The  other,  the  Cathe- 
dral del  Pilar,  is  a  modern  gaudy  edifice,  but  it  is  the  favorite 
church  of  the  natives,  on  account  of  the  legend  connected 
with  it.  Tradition  says  that  the  apostle  Santiago,  after  the  Cruci- 
fixion, came  to  Spain,  to  preach  the  Gospel.  When  he  had  reached 
Zaragoza,  in  his  sleep  he  was  visited  by  a  celestial  vision.  The 
Virgin  appeared  standing  on  a  jasper  pillar  surrounded  by  angels, 
and  spoke  to  him,  saying  she  wished  to  have  a  chapel  built  on 
that  very  spot.  Santiago  hastened  to  fulfil  her  bidding,  and 
erected  a  small  chapel,  which,  it  is  said,  was  often  visited  by  the 
Holy  Mother.  The  present  cathedral  was  built  in  the  place  of 
the  ancient  one  about  two  centuries  ago,  with  all  the  lack  of 
taste  belonging  to  that  period.  In  the  Sacred  Chapel  is  the  Holy 
Image  with  the  pillar,  concealed  by  a  heavy  cloth,  and  enclosed 
in  a  silver  railing.  Jasper  pillars  support  the  cupola,  and  this  is 
hung  about  with  old  banners  captured  from  the  Moors.  There  is 
a  small  room  beneath,  reached  by  some  descending  steps  where 
the  heart  of  Don  John  of  Austria,  the  hero  of  Lepanto,  is  kept. 
In  the  security  of  this  holy  chapel  is  preserved  all  that  remains 
of  the  treasure  of  the  Virgin,  —  gifts  made  to  her  shrine  by  devo- 
tees. There  are  still  many  ornaments  of  pearls  and  diamonds,  and 
mantles  embroidered  and  enriched  with  gold ;  but  the  French  car- 
ried  away   the   greater  part    of  these   treasures. 


ZARAGOZA. 


383 


The  Horners  especially  wanted  to  see  the  leaning  tower.  They 
walked  about  the  streets  looking  for  it  in  vain,  until  they  began 
to   feel   as    if   all   the    steeples    in    town    were    out     of  the   perpendic- 


THE   LEANING  TOWER. 


ular.  The  principal  streets  of  Zaragoza  are  broad,  and  ornamented 
with  large  squares  ;  but  the  less  inportant  ones  are  narrow  and 
winding,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  see  any  great  distance.  Hav- 
ing  passed    the    morning   in    studying    the    two    cathedrals,    and  wan- 


334  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

dering  about  the  streets,  they  took  a  fresh  start  towards  sunset, 
and  with  full  directions  from  the  hotel,  soon  found  themselves 
below  the  leaning  tower,  which  did  lean  in  an  alarming  manner, 
for  as  they  stood  beneath  it,  it  seemed  as  if  it  must  come  tot- 
tering down.  But  there  it  has  stood,  firmly  planted,  since  the 
beginning  of  the  sixteenth  century,  although  it  is  called  the  Torre 
Nueva,  or  new  tower.  It  was  built  by  Spanish  and  Moorish 
architects,  combining  their  skill.  It  inclines  like  the  leaning  tower 
of   Pisa,    but    not    so    much    as   that. 

The  tower  is  on  a  large  square,  and  there  is  a  little  house  at 
the  foot  of  it,  where  was  a  very  hospitable  and  friendly  concierge, 
or  guardian  of  the  tower,  who  urged  our  party  to  ascend  to  the 
top. 

Miss  Lejeune,  as  usual,  demurred.  She  found  the  excellent 
wooden  chair  in  the  shade  too  comfortable  to  leave,  when  she  was 
told    there   were   two   hundred  and    sixty  steps   to   go    up. 

But  the   children    begged    her  to   come. 

"Think,    aunt    Dut,"    said   Tommy,    "our    last    tower    in    Spain!" 

"And    my   first,"    added  Philip. 

"  Well,  I  suppose  I  must,"  she  said,  starting  from  her  seat  with 
energy,  as  the  boy  who  had  been  sent  for  the  keys  approached. 
An  iron  door  was  unlocked,  and  they  set  out  upon  the  weary 
winding  stairs  within  the  tower.  A  stray  dog  joined  the  expedi- 
tion  and   kept    with    the   party    all    the    way. 

The  view  from  the  top  is  extensive  and  fine,  and  Miss  Augusta 
after  she  had  recovered  her  breath,  was  enthusiastic.  It  was  very 
windy,  and  the  platform  seemed  to  waver.  There  are  strong  rail- 
ings across  the  open  arched  spaces,  and  it  is  perfectly  safe,  but 
the  party  all  felt  a  little  insecure.  The  dog  evidently  felt  so  too. 
He  sat  very  meek  in  the  shelter  of  one  of  the  arches,  and  was 
all  ready  to  go  down  with  the  rest  as  soon  as  the  general  move 
was   made. 

"  But  where  is  the  Maid } "  asked  Philip,  as  they  were  walking 
back  to  the  hotel.  They  saw  nothing  of  her,  and  there  is 
little   or  no  trace   left  of  the   long-sustained   siege.     There   is   indeed 


ZARAGOZA. 


J35 


little   to    see  of    ancient    splendor.      Though    the    houses    in    the    old 

streets   are   built   with    massive    masonry,    and    there    are  patios    with 

solid    columns,   and 

remains       of       fine 

carving,    now    used 

as   warehouses   and 

receptacles    for   old 

rubbish. 

The  ancient  king- 
dom of  Aragon  is 
now  divided  into 
three  provinces,  of 
which  that  of  Zar- 
agoza  is  one.  For- 
merly, its  nucleus 
in  the  heart  of  the 
Spanish  Pyrenees, 
was  the  refuge  of 
the  routed  Goths. 
Here  in  time  petty 
states  arose,  from 
which  Aragon  grew 
to  be  a  kingdom. 
Catalonia  became  a 
part  of  it  in  the 
twelfth  century,  and 
later,  when  Ferdi- 
nand was  married 
to  Isabella,  it  was 
joined  to  Castile. 
The  Aragonese  have 
been  remarkable  in 
history  for  their 
love  of  independ- 
ence  and    public    liberty.     One  of   their  early  laws  was    to  the  effect 


OLD   COURT-YARD. 


336 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN". 


that    "  whenever   the    king   should     infringe     the    powers,    any   other 
might    be   elected   in  his  stead,    even    should    he    be    a    Pagan." 

The  hotel  at  Zaragoza  was  upon  a  large  square,  which,  in  the 
evening,  was  filled  with  people  chatting  upon  benches,  walking  up 
and  down  in  the  warm  summer  air  ;  and  here  and  there  voices 
arose,  softly  singing  light  music.  The  Horners  sat  in  the  window 
of    their    room,     without    candles,     watching    the    scene    below,    but 


ox   TEAM    OF   ARAGON. 


more  interested  in  talking  with  Philip,  and  comparing  notes  of 
the  different  experiences  of  the  family  since  its  members  had  been 
separated. 

"Only  think,  Philip,"  said  Tommy,  "that  you  did  not  see  Hubert 
Vaughan  !  " 

"  I    know,"     replied      Philip ;      "  he    was    a    nice    fellow,    was     he 

not .?  " 


THE   COLEGIO    DE   PROCURADORES,    ZARAGOZ/j. 


J       3  J  J  i  > 


»    J  J,        J    J  >  J        J  i 


t    i  3    i     i 


c.  c  c 
c  c  c 


ZARAGOZA.  839 

"  First-rate,"    replied   Tommy.     "  I    miss   him   all   the   time." 

"  My  mother  thought  you  had  lost  your  mind  when  she  first 
heard  that  you  had  adopted,  as  it  were,  a  large  family,"  said 
Philip,    turning   to    his  father. 

Mr.  Horner  laughed.  "  It  was  rash,"  he  said,  "  but  it  all  turned 
out  very  well,  in  spite  of  the  sad  ending.  I  pity  Hubert.  He  is 
a  fine  little  fellow,  and  his  life  now  at  Gibraltar  must  be  sad 
and   dull." 

"Mr.    Hervey   thinks  he   has   met    Colonel   Vaughan,"   said   Philip. 

"  Mr.  Hervey !  Why,  he  was  gone  long  before  we  met  the 
Vaughans,"   said   Miss    Lejeune. 

"  Oh !  Did  not  you  know  he  had  come  back  from  America  ?  ^' 
asked  Philip.  "  He  only  went  over  to  see  his  mother  for  a 
minute   or    so    in    Boston,    and    came   right    back, 

"Back  to  Luz ! "  demanded  Miss  Lejeune,  sitting  up  and  leaning 
forward   to    examine  Philip's   face   as    he   heard   the    question, 

"No,  not  yet,"  replied  Philip,  with  a  half  laugh;  "but  there  is 
constant  writing,  and  that  was  one  reason  why  I  did  not  mind 
leaving  mamma  and  Mary.  Hervey  is  sure  to  turn  up  before 
they   have   to   go  away." 

Philip  stood  up,  put  his  hands  in  his  pockets,  and  walked  to 
the  other  window.  Miss  Augusta  made  a  movement  to  follow 
him,  and  began  "  Philip,"  but  changed  her  mind,  and  leaned 
back  again  in  her  seat.  There  was  a  little  silence,  broken  only 
by   her   favoite   ejaculation    in    an    undertone,    "  Well !    well ! " 

The  silence  was  broken  by  something  very  like  a  snore  from 
Tommy,  who  had  been  sitting  on  the  floor  with  his  head  against 
Bessie's  chair.  He  roused  himself,  and  said,  "  I  believe  I  am  a 
little   sleepy,    and    I    will    go   to    bed." 

The  early  start  caused  by  Philip's  arrival  in  the  morning,  and 
a  long  day  of  sight-seeing,  was  quite  enough  to  account  for  his 
condition. 

"There  was  a  party  at  Jaca,"  said  Philip,  "that  I  think  must 
have  been  Americans,  although  I  did  not  speak  to  them  ;  a 
gentleman    and   two   ladies,    one    rather    elderly,    and    a    young    girl. 


340  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

They  sketched,  which  made  me  think  they  were  English  at  first. 
I  saw  them  in  the  morning.  All  were  sitting  on  the  edge  of  a 
field,  and  painting  the  walls  of  the  town  with  Oroel  the  moun- 
tain, behind.  I  wish  we  could  go  back  there  some  day.  You 
have  no  idea  how  pretty  it  is.  Jaca  is  an  important  little  town. 
There  is  a  cathedral  there,  very  ancient ;  and  it  was  the  scene 
of  a  battle  with  the  Moors,  about  the  end  of  the  eighth  century. 
The  women  fought  with  the  men  ;  they  have  a  sham  fight  now  every 
year    to    celebrate    the    day,    when    the   women    go   out    and    fight." 

"  How  about  those  sketching-people,  Philip ;  did  the  young  girl 
have   light  hair  ?  " 

"  Yes ;  in  a  braid  down  her  back.  I  think  they  were  staying 
to  see  the  fiesta,  for  they  went  off  the  next  morning  very  early 
in  a  delightful  little  omnibus,  all  by  themselves,  to  cross  the 
Pyrenees  by  the  new  diligence  road.  I  heard  the  noise  of  their 
departure,  and  put  my  head  out  of  the  window,  There  was  the 
landlord  and  his  daughter,  and  the  maids,  all  running,  speeding 
the  parting  guest.  I  never  saw  so  much  hand-baggage.  They 
had    shawl    straps,    and   those    flat    things   you    see   all    over   Spain." 

''Alforcas!"    said   Bessie. 

"Yes;   and   drawing-boards,    and    lunch-baskets" — 

"And  a  India  rubber  waterproof!"  said  a  small  voice  in  the 
distance.  Tommy  was  standing  in  the  doorway,  with  one  shoe  in 
his   hand   and   none   on    his    feet. 

"  I    came  back   to   get    my    other  shoe,"    he   explained. 

"But    how   do    you    know   about     the    waterproof.?"    cried     Philip. 

"What    mark   was   there    on  the    boxes.?"    said    Bessie. 

"  I    don't   know ;    I    did    not    see   the   baggage   very  well." 

"It  must   be,   of   course   it  was,   the   other  H's,"  said    Bessie. 

Pretty  soon  the  party  broke  up,  and  they  all  went  to  bed,  as 
sleepy  as  Tommy  ;  but  after  Bessie  was  quiet,  with  her  head  on 
the  pillow,  Miss  Lejeune  lingered  still,  leaning  on  the  balcony,  in 
the   soft    night   air. 

Finally  she  turned  away,  closed  the  window,  put  out  the  lights, 
murmuring  to    herself   with   a   smile,   "  AVell !    well !  " 


CATHEDRAL,   BARCELONA. 


•        ''y'l    U\    i      .\ 


BARCELONA.  343 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

BARCELONA. 

IN  twenty-four  hours  the  Horners  had  left  Zaragoza,  and  after 
another  long  railroad  journey,  had  reached  Barcelona,  passing 
across  the  province  of  Catalonia,  one  of  the  most  individual  of  the 
divisions  of  Spain.  The  Catalans  are  a  strongly  marked  race,  dif- 
fering from  all  other  Spaniards.  As  they  live  on  the  border  lands 
between  Spain  and  France,  they  have  in  all  periods  of  disao-ree- 
ments  wavered  from  one  side  to  the  other ;  in  their  hearts  and 
souls  they  consider  themselves  neither  Spaniards  nor  French,  but 
simply  Catalans.  They  are  industrious,  business-like  and  enterpris- 
ing ;  they  have  been  called  the  Scotch  of  the  country ;  honest, 
thrifty,  and  sober,  with  an  immense  sense  of  their  own  superiority 
and  contempt  for  their  neighbors ;  a  feeling  justified  by  the  fact 
that   they   hold  the   commerce   of    Spain    in   their   hands. 

The  dress  of  the  Catalans  is  perhaps  less  picturesque  than  that 
of  other  provinces.  The  chief  distinction  is  a  cotton  night-cap- 
shaped  gorro,  sometimes  purple,  but  generally  red ;  for  red  is  the 
prevailing  Catalan  color.  The  oxen  are  oddly  decorated  with  high 
humps   on   their   yokes    gayly    ornamented. 

Catalonia  was  called  the  Spanish  March,  or  frontier,  at  the  time 
when  the  French  took  possession  of  it,  after  driving  out  the  Moors 
in  the  eighth  century.  Under  one  of  the  governors  it  revolted,  and  the 
counts  of  Barcelona  remained  independent  from  the  ninth  to  the 
twelfth  centuries.  This  was  its  greatest  period  of  wealth  and  pros- 
perity, and  it  is  the  tradition  of  this  power  which  makes  the 
descendants    of   this   free   people    such    troublesome    subjects. 

As    we    have    seen,    Catalonia    was,    by    marriage,    merged    in    the 


844 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIX. 


crown  of   Aragon.     It  thus  lost  the   name,  though  not    the   spirit,  of 
independence ;    by   the    time     of    Ferdinand    and     Isabella,    when    it 


CATALONIA   CART. 


became,    of    course,    a    part     of     Castile,    it    possessed    neither     the 
prosperity   nor    the    power   of   ancient    days. 

Always  rebellious,  it  has  been  found  on  the  side  opposed  to  the 
king  on  the  throne  in  every  revolution.  Always  obliged  to  surren- 
der,   it   is    to    this   day    ever    ready    for   civil    war   and    revolution. 


BARCELONA.  345 

Barcelona,  its  chief  place,  is  the  second  largest  city  in  Spain.  It 
is  very  happily  placed  on  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  its 
climate,  mild  in  winter,  is  agreeable  at  all  seasons.  Washington 
Irving  had  occasion  to  visit  it  while  he  was  American  minister  in 
Spain,  in  order  to  present  an  official  letter  to  the  young  Queen 
Isabella,  then  not  more  than  fifteen  years  old.  He  was  delighted 
with  the  city,  in  contrast  to  the  less  favored  situation  of  Madrid, 
and   describes  living  there   as   the  very    poetry   of  existence. 

Barcelona  comes  into  English  history  at  the  time  of  the  war  of 
the  Spanish  succession,  1 701-14,  when  English,  Dutch  and 
Austrians  combined  to  resist  Louis  the  Fourteenth  in  his  plan  of 
making    his   grandson,  Philip,  king    of  Spain. 

While  Marlborough  was  fighting  in  this  cause  in  the  Netherlands, 
the  English  sent  an  expedition  to  Spain  under  Lord  Peterborough, 
one  of  the  most  extraordinary  characters  that  ever  lived,  brilliant, 
courageous,  but  eccentric  to  the  last  degree.  The  task  assigned  to 
him  was  to  attack  Barcelona,  a  difficult  one,  for  the  city  on  one 
side  is  protected  by  the  sea,  on  the  other  by  strong  fortifications. 
Peterborough  conceived  the  idea  of  a  bold  attack  upon  this  fort- 
tress,  and  by  night,  with  a  little  army,  he  approached  the  walls  of 
Monjuich.  Here  they  halted  till  daybreak,  when  the  enemy  came 
into  the  outer  ditch  to  meet  them.  This  was  what  the  English  were 
prepared  for.  They  rushed  forward,  put  the  Spaniards  to  flight,  and 
entered  the  works  together  with  the  fugitives.  Before  the  garrison 
had  recovered  from  their  surprise,  Peterborough  was  master  of  the 
outworks.  He  was  aided  by  reinforcements,  and  the  fortress  soon 
fell.  Barcelona  followed,  and  Peterborough  had  the  glory  of  taking, 
with  a  handful  of  men,  one  of  the  largest  and  strongest  towns  of 
Europe. 

In  spite  of  the  successes  of  the  Arch-duke  Charles,  the  Austrian 
competitor  for  Spain,  it  was  the  Bourbon  prince  who  gained  the 
throne.  By  the  close  of  1707,  Catalonia  was  the  only  part  of 
Spain  which  still  adhered  to  Charles  ;  and  six  years  afterwards,  the 
peace  of  Utrecht  put  an  end  to  this  conflict  of  the  nations,  a 
peace   which    the    poor   Catalans    alone    had    real    reason    to    regret. 


846 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN". 


They  had  been  the  faithful  allies  of  England  throughout  the 
struggle,  and  England  should  have  made  the  liberties  of  Catalonia 
a  condition  of  peace ;  but  Queen  Anne  and  the  English  con- 
tented  themselves  with    an    empty  promise  of   good  offices   to  secure 


PRISON   OF   INQUISITION,    BARCELONA. 


them.       The  unhappy   people,  abandoned   by   those   whom    they   had 

so    faithfully  served,    refused    to    accept   the    conditions    offered    by 

the    Bourbon  King    of    Spain,    and    continued    in    arms,    hoping    for 

outside   helD.  Barcelona  was   blockaded.     The  resistance  lasted  more 


BARCELONA. 


347 


than  a  year.  The  insurgents  hung  up  over  the  high  altar  of  their 
cathedral  the  solemn  declaration  of  the  Queen  of  England  to  pro- 
tect them.  But  the  struggle  of  course  was  hopeless.  No  aid  came 
from  the  outside.  A  great  part  of  the  city  was  reduced  to  ashes, 
and  at  last  Barcelona  was  taken  by  storm.  Many  of  the  inhabit- 
ants were  imprisoned  or  trans- 
ported, and  the  ancient  priv- 
ileges of  Catalonia  for  which 
they  had  fought  so  valiantly, 
were   finally    abolished. 

The  Horners  had  a  couple 
of  days  to  wait  at  Barcelona 
before  taking  the  steamer 
which  runs  once  a  week 
between  that  port  at  Mar- 
seilles. They  had  time  to 
see  pretty  much  all  the  sights 
of  the  town ;  the  prison  of 
the  Inquisition,  now  robbed 
of  its  terrors,  but  for  years 
filled  with  the  victims  of  the 
cruel  rule  of  the  Spanish 
church,  the  fortress  built  by 
Philip  the  Fifth,  to  have 
command  over  the  city,  and 
especially  over  the  Castle  of 
Monjuich,  surprised  by  Peter- 
borough, from  the  summit  of  which  there  is  a  magnificent  view,  as 
the  fort  is  seven  hundred  and  iifty-two  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea. 

The  Catalans  are  still  fond  of  show  and  parade.  While  the 
Horners  were  there  they  saw  the  streets  crowded  to  witness  a 
pageant  of  a  solemn  nature,  a  funeral  procession,  when  the  digni- 
taries of  the  church  marched  solemnly,  bearing  banners.  It  was 
accompanied   by   solemn    music,    and   very    impressive.     The    valet  de 


GIGANTS. 


348 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


place  who  took  them  about  the  first  day,  told  them  they  ought 
to  stay  to  a  fiesta  soon  to  take  place,  when  the  Gigants  would  be 
carried    about  the    streets. 

"He  means  giants,"  said  Bessie  to  Philip  in  a  low  tone;  "that 
is    what   Juan    used   to   call    them." 

The  gigants,  as  described  in  the  imperfect  English  of  the  guide, 
would  seem  to  be  some  traditional  heroes  of  the  Catalans,  thus 
honored    in   a    rude   fashion. 

The  cathedral  is  sober  and  harmonious.  It  is  Gothic  and  belongs 
mostly  to  the  best  and  purest  period.  It  is  approached  by  an 
elevated  flight  of  steps.  The  belfry  towers  are  lofty,  dating  from 
the  end  of  the  fourteenth  century,  when  the  whole  cathedral  was 
finished,  except  the 
portions  which  still 
remain  incomplete, 
like  the  principal 
facade.  The  interior 
is  dark,  solemn,  and 
imposing,  and  the 
stained  windows  are 
among  the  finest  in 
Spain,  dating  between 
the  fourteen  and  fif- 
teen hundreds.  In 
one  of  the  chapels  is  a  crucifix  called  Cristo  de  Lepanto,  which 
was  carried  on  the  prow  of  the  flagship  of  Don  Juan  of  Austria, 
at  the  battle  of  Lepanto,  fought  against  the  Moors  in  1571,  by 
Spain,   Venice   and    Austria. 

It  is  bent  sideways,  because,  according  to  the  legend,  as  the 
Moors  directed  their  guns  against  the  sacred  image,  it  turned 
away,    and   thus   avoided    the   infidel    bullet. 

They  had  not  allowed  themselves  time  to  go  out  to  the  Monas- 
tery of  Montserrat,  an  excursion  which  requires  a  day  at  least, 
and  better  two.  It  is  one  of  the  celebrated  shrines  in  Spain, 
and   is    still   visited   yearly   by   numbers    of   pilgrims.     It    is   the   sub- 


THE   BATTLE  OF  LEPANTO. 


BARCELONA.  349 

ject  of  many  legends  and  superstitions,  and  the  treasure  of  the 
Virgin  enshrined  there  was  once  immense.  The  French  carried 
off  most  of  it,  and  when  the  French  troops  were  garrisoned  there 
the  place  was  ahnost  destroyed.  The  former  church  and  monastery 
no  longer  exist ;  the  modern  convent,  built  by  the  orders  of 
Ferdinand  the  Seventh,  in  1827,  overlooks  a  broad  and  magnificent 
view. 

The  Homers  were  content  to  wander  about  the  streets  of  Bar- 
celona, enjoying  the  soft  breezes  from  the  sea,  and  awaiting  now 
with  some  impatience,  the  steamer  which  would  so  soon  bring  them 
to  join   their   mother   and    sister. 

Yet  Bessie  sighed  to  be  leaving  charming  Spain,  and  Miss  Lejeune 
did  it  with  regret.  The  chief  dream  of  her  life,  as  she  declared, 
was  now  coming  to  an  end,  and  what  more  had  she  to  look 
forward  to  ! 

The  chief  street  of  Barcelona  is  called  the  Rambla,  a  broad  boule- 
vard, or  succession  of  them,  filled  in  the  warm  evening  with  peo- 
ple strolling  up  and  down.  There  are  also  Paseos  and  public 
gardens,  where  the  people  can  enjoy  out-door  life,  in  the  shade 
of   large   trees,    and   with   fountains    cooling   the  air. 

Our  party  lingered  in  the  open  air  quite  late  on  their  last  even- 
ing in  Barcelona.  It  was  their  last  evening  also  in  Spain,  and 
they    wished   to    enjoy    it    to    the   full. 

The  next  morning  they  had  to  be  up  betimes,  for  no  one  was 
quite  sure  at  what  hour  the  steamer  would  leave.  There  was  not  much 
packing  to  do,  for  they  had  not  been  long  enough  in  the  place  to 
establish  the  air  of  comfortable  confusion  which  usually  distinguished 
their  hotel  rooms.  The  chief  part  of  their  luggage  had  been  for- 
warded direct  to  Paris  from  Madrid,  and  since  they  left  the  capital 
they  had  been  travelling  with  very  little  encumbrance.  So  they 
walked  from  the  hotel  to  the  port,  followed  by  a  hand-cart  con- 
taining their  effects,  descended  the  long,  handsome  steps  of  the 
jetty,   and   put   forth   in   a   little   boat   to   their   steamer. 


850  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER  XL. 


OUT    OF    SPAIN, 


DELAYS,  as  usual  in  Spain,  were  numerous,  and  it  was  noon 
before  the  steamer  was  fairly  off.  The  party  of  Americans 
established  themselves  comfortably  in  the  stern  of  the  ship,  well 
tucked  in  with  rugs,  for  the  air  of  the  sea  was  fresh  as  soon  as 
they  lost  the  influence  of  land  breezes.  Lovely  indeed  was 
the  receding  shore,  the  hills  rising  behind  the  town  in  jagged  peaks, 
dotted  here  and  there  with  houses.  The  water  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean sparkled  and  danced,  and  the  sky  was  clear  and  almost 
cloudless. 

They  all  looked  long  and  wistfully  back  upon  the  country  in 
which    they   had    enjoyed    so    much. 

"  I  suppose,  Bessie,"  said  Philip,  beginning  to  banter  her  upon 
her  historical  streak,  "that  you  are  well  versed  in  the  history  of 
Spain  ;    you   have   it,    so    to  speak,    at   your   fingers'    ends  } " 

"  Fairly  well,"  replied  Bessie,  not  without  some  vanity,  or  at 
least   self-confidence. 

"Let  me  see,"  said  Philip.  "The  Goths  had  something  to  do 
with  it,  did  they  not  .■'  They  got  it  away  from  the  Romans,  under 
a   man    named    Roderick.     Was    he   the    same   as    the   Cid  ? " 

"  Philip,  you  are  very  funny,"  said  Bessie  scornfully ;  "  I  know 
you  are  really  dying  to  know  all  about  it  ;  if  not,  you  will  do 
well  not  to  goad  me  on,  for  I  shall  begin  at  the  very  beginning 
and   expound   the   whole   course   of   events    to   you." 

"Give  me  the  guide-book,"  said  Philip,  yawning,  "and  I  will 
look  it  through,  I  dare  say  in  half  an  hour  I  shall  catch  up 
with   you   in   knowledge   of   the    Spanish    kings," 


Sllf  f''i'ii!',r'(i'i'"'iii;!.i.-'''l-i  :Ji'i  'i-.'l 


m'wi 


ARMS    OK    BARCELONA. 


1      ,    )  J  J    J     >    >  ,  ' 

>    .  >  »       >  3         J  '  J^        J 


J  J    )  ,        J  >        J  1 


OUT  OF  SPAIN. 


363 


Bessie  shook  her  head.  "You  just  wait  till  you  have  tried  it; 
the  minute  you  begin  to  find  out  anything  about  it,  you  will  per- 
ceive that   you   know    nothing   at    all." 

"  If  Philip  will  retire  and  study  the  guide-book  for  half  an  hour, 
as  he  says,"  remarked  Mr.  Horner,  "we  will  then  hold  an 
examination   and    see  which    knows  the    most,  Philip   or   Bessie." 

"Very  well,"  replied  Bessie  with  alacrity;  "only  I  should  like 
to   look   at  the    book   once." 

"  Not   fair,    not   fair ! "    cried    Philip,    holding   it    out    of    her   reach. 

"Oh,    it's  of   no  consequence,"   she  returned  with   dignity,    "I   was 


MONTSERRAT. 


not  quite  sure  whether  Pelayo  was  seven  hundred  and  eighteen  or 
seven   hundred    and    twenty," 

"  Don't  be  alarmed,  Bessie,"  said  Miss  Lejeune,  "  for  if  you  are 
one  of  the  examined,  none  of  the  rest  of  us  know  enough  how  to 
conduct   the    case." 

"  True  enough,"  replied  Philip,  touched  by  Bessie's  imperturbable 
good   nature;    "and   on   the    whole,    I    much    prefer    to    have   Bessie 


354 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN". 


know  for  all  of  us,  and  to  remain  ignorant  myself.  Do  you  know, 
Bessie,"  he  continued,  looking  her  all  over,  "I  really  believe,  now, 
that   you  will  never  become   a   prig !  " 

"Really,    Philip,"    she    retorted,    with   a    toss   of    her    head,   "how 

do   you   feel   about   yourself    in  that 
regard .-'  " 

Philip  pulled  something  that  would 
sometime  become  a  mustache,  and 
said  : 

"Let  us  change  the  subject;" 
and  thus  ended  the  passage-at-arms. 
Not  long  after  they  were  sum- 
moned below  to  a  mid-day  meal, 
which  was  not  almuerzo,  but  more 
like   a   regular   dinner. 

"  No  puchero  !  "  exclaimed  Bessie. 
"  Glad  of  it !  "  said  Tommy.  "  It 
is  the  first  day  we  have  not  had 
to  eat  it  since  we  came  to  Spain." 
Tommy  had  spent  the  last  hour 
in  visiting  the  live  stock  on  board. 
There  were  quite  a  number  of 
passengers,  all  talking  French.  The 
stewards  were  French,  and  there 
was  an  indescribable  absence  of  every- 
thing Spanish,  although  a  few  of 
the  sailors  were  Catalans,  and  wore 
hanging  rea  caps. 
Alas,  the  Spanish  campaign  was  over,  and  all  Spanish  sights, 
sounds  (and,  shall  we  say,  smells  .-• )  were  rapidly  disappearing.  It  was 
too  soon  to  change  the  current  of  their  thoughts,  and  their  minds 
kept  reverting  to  their  Spanish  life.  Words  in  Castellano  came 
readily  to  their  lips,  even  before  the  French  ones  required  for  the 
moment. 

"  As  for   my   Italian,"    said   Miss   Lejeune,    "  I  fear   it   is   lost  for- 


LIVE    STOCK. 


OUT  OF  SPAIN.  355 

ever.     I    think    of  siempre  and    tiempo,    instead    of  sempre  and  tempo, 
whenever   I   try   to   turn   an    Italian  sentence." 

"  You  will  pick  it  up  again ; "  said  Bessie ;  "  and  I  must  learn  it, 
for,  papa  dear,  I  am  now  very  anxious  to  go  to  Naples  and  Sicily. 
You    know   Gonsalvo   de   Cordova  was   there"  — 

"That,    of   course,    is   the   best   of   reasons,"    began    Philip. 

"  My  daughter,"  said  Mr.  Horner,  "  do  not  mention  any  more 
countries  to  me.  I  am  going  Home  now,  and  I  mean  to  settle 
down  this  time.  I  begin  to  feel  a  little  too  old  for  so  much 
travelling,  and  I  want  to  make  acquaintance  once  more  with  my 
own    chimney-corner." 

"  Too  old !  what  nonsense,  papa !  but  I  will  not  press  the  ques- 
tion. You  have  been  a  most  obedient  parent,  and  since  we  can 
have  our  own  house  this  winter,  I  have  no  objection  to  going 
home.  But  remember  ;  we  are  never  to  settle  down  for  good.  The 
Horners    must   always   be   a   roving   family." 

"  You  young  people,"  said  the  long-suffering  parent  with  a  deep- 
drawn  sigh,  "  I  dare  say,  will  be  ready  to  start  off  again ;  but  I 
think  your  mother  and  I,  after  this,  will  stay  at  home  and  con- 
tent  ourselves   with    letters.     Is  that   your   opinion,    Augusta .'' " 

Miss  Lejeune  shook  her  head.  She  was  indeed  an  inveterate 
traveller.     Nevertheless    she   said  : 

"  I  want  to  go  home  now,  and  see  what  there  really  is  in  my 
boxes.  Let  me  see,  we  left  one  at  Madrid ;  I  sent  two  to  Lon- 
don, from  Bordeaux,  and  there  is  that  one  at  Paris  that  came  from 
Beirut,  with  all  my  Eastern  things  in  it.  Bessie,  I  mean  to  have 
that   red  and   white    Cairo  blanket   for   a   portiere  in    my   bedroom." 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  even  she  had  her  mind  turned 
towards  America.  The  party  was  to  join  Mrs.  Horner  and  Mary 
at  Marseilles,  where  it  was  hoped  they  were  already  waiting 
impatiently.  All  were  to  go  at  once  to  England.  It  was  now 
the  beginning  of  July,  and  they  expected  to  pass  the  summer 
months  at  the  lakes,  perhaps  going  into  Scotland  in  September. 
It  will  be  remembered  that  the  Horner  family  had  as  yet  no 
experience  of   the    charms  of    English   scenery. 


856  A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 

The  plan  was  to  reach  New  York  about  the  first  of  October, 
and  to  go  at  once  upon  arriving  home  for  their  own  house  was 
now  vacant.  Miss  Lcjeune's  rooms  were  always  ready  for  her, 
under   lock   and    key. 

"  But   oh  !    the   joy    of    seeing    Mary   so    soon,"    cried    Bessie. 

"  Do  you  really  think,  Philip,  that  Mr.  Hervey  is  there  with 
them.''"    asked    Miss    Lejeune. 

'•  I    should    not    wonder,"    he    replied   with   a  mysterious    smile. 

In  thus  talking  over  their  past  experiences  and  future  plans,  they 
found  the  time  pass  rapidly.  After  dinner  they  watched  a  superb 
sunset,  for  many  clouds  had  come  up  and  were  piled  tumultuously 
about  the  west  ;  the  wind  too  was  rising,  and  as  they  were  now  far 
out  from  land,  there  was  more  motion  than  they  liked.  Little 
heeding  it,  however,  they  all  bade  each  other  good-night  and  went 
below  early.  Miss  Lejeune  and  Bessie  to  a  snug  little  cabin 
which   they   luckily    had   all    to   themselves. 

Luckily,  for  about  midnight  a  violent  storm  came  up.  The  ship 
rolled   and    tossed,    the    rain   poured   down   in    sheets  upon  the   deck. 

In  the  state-room  the  two  ladies  were  both  awake,  for  every- 
thing was  on  the  loose.  They  had  not  thought  to  take  the  usual 
precautions  to  secure  their  effects,  as  it  was  the  only  night,  and 
had    seemed  so   calm    when    they   went   to  bed. 

"Bessie,  are    you    awake.?"    asked    Miss    Lejeune. 

"  I    should    think    so,"    she   replied. 

"What  is  that  rolling  about  on  the  floor .-'"  asked  her  com- 
panion. 

"  I  can  see  my  boots  and  your  hat,  and  all  our  clothes,  sliding 
about,  "  said  Bessie,  putting  her  head  out  and  looking  down  from 
her  dizzy   height. 

"But  that  round  thing  that  bangs  —  there  it  goes  again!"  she 
cried,    as  the  ship    rolled    again. 

"I'm  afraid  it's  the  water  pitcher;  we  must  have  left  it  on  the 
floor  !  " 

"O  Heaven!"  cried  Miss  Lejeune  in  dismay,  "then  everything 
is  wet   down    there." 


PORT   AT   MARSEILLES. 


>      i    i  1 


J  1     J      *       »      i 


I  »         J         i      1 


i         *  *  .       V 


J    ,   i      »  *      -» 

J  3       i    i    i       i         ' 


i         ■» 
J      >      J 


OUT  OF  SPAIK 


369 


"  It    is    wet,  very 


"Everything  is  wet  up  here,"  retorted  Bessie,  "for  the  port-hole 
is  not    tight,  and    each    wave    splashes    in  !  " 

"  My  dear  child,   you  had  better  come  down  and  lie  on  the  sofa ! " 

"  I  will  come  down  and  pick  up  that  pitcher ! "  replied  Bessie, 
and  she  began  to  apply  herself  to  the  feat  of  climbing  from  the 
top  berth,  difficult  enough  when  everything  was  slanting.  Before 
she  reached  the  ground  there  was  a  loud  smash  ;  the  thick  crockery 
pitcher  itself  had  put  an  end  to  its  wild  career  by  banging 
against   a   projecting   corner   of    iron, 

Bessie's  feet  alighted  on  the  damp  carpet, 
wet,"  she  remarked,  "still 
it  is  odd  there  should  have 
been  so  much  water  left  in 
the  pitcher."  She  piled  all 
the  clothes  she  could  lay 
hold  of  securely  in  the 
upper  berth,  and  then  after 
drying  her  feet,  curled  her- 
self in  such  blankets  as 
she  could  find,  and  was  soon 
asleep  ;  for  the  storm  sub- 
sided as  suddenly  as  it  had 
arisen.  The  morning  was 
bright  and  clear.  The  party 
had  not  suffered  from  the 
storm  except  that  the  hats 
of  the  ladies  were  a  little 
limp  from  their  squabble 
with  the  pitcher. 

It  was  near  noon  when  they  came  to  the  familiar  port  of  Mar- 
seilles. There  were  the  crowded  quay,  a  boy  in  wooden  shoes  wav- 
ing his  signal,  the  line  of  large  vessels,  the  swarm  of  small  boats, 
the  row  of  friends  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  steamer,  and  among 
them,  eagerly  pressing  to  the  best  place,  were  Mrs.  Horner,  Mary 
and  Mr.   Hervey. 


f !  S  %_   -  ^  ____ 


FHE   SIGNAL. 


360 


A  FAMILY  FLIGHT  THROUGH  SPAIN. 


Long  before  they  met,  they  waved  handkerchiefs  and  called  out 
words  of  joy  and  welcome,  all  unintelligible  to  the  ear,  but  well 
understood    by  the   heart. 

Mr.  Hervey  was  the  first  person  to  reach  them.  As  they  stepped 
on  shore,  he  seized  Bessie's  hand,  and  bending  over   her,   whispered  : 

"Will  you   bid   me  welcome   as   a  new  brother .!•" 


MARSEILLES   AGAIN. 


/ 


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